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Ich habe 2 Stück OEM Skoda Halter für blind Spot daheim. Besorge dir 2 fix fertig codierte und Parametrierte 2Q0 Steuergeräte. Lege dir dafür die 3D Druck Adapter dazu. @Lutz_91 hat die selben. Hab einen funktionierenden vas5054a noch bekommst dazu. Du brauchst dich nur um Kabel Satz und Außenspiegel kümmern. Alles andere per PM I have two OEM Skoda blind spot brackets at home. Get yourself two pre-coded and parameterized 2Q0 control units. Also get the 3D-printed adapters. @Lutz_91 has the same ones. I also have a working VAS5054A unit that you'll get with it. You only need to take care of the wiring harness and the side mirrors. Everything else via PM.

SMMT data....

Tis a shame it didn't work out, then again not surprised given its an AliExpress version.

I've found that my old iPod nano isn't supported via the infotainment head unit. Probably obsolete no doubt as it ran on Bluetooth 4.0, and doesn't want to work via USB either. I've searched in the Skoda manual for what the minimum Bluetooth acceptability criteria is for media devices, but can't seem to find anything. Also checked in the Search facility on here too but nothing obvious leapt out either. It transpires that most players appear to be uni-directional so boasting v5.2 makes no difference as they wont connect to a vehicle system. I've located one, on a very short list, which should connect (multi-directional) but is only Bluetooth v4.1. Can anyone help me with the information I need please?

With DCC shocks, it is recommended to run the DCC Recalibration procedure after installing the springs. Plenty use either Eibach Pro-kit springs or H&R springs. I have had Eibach Pro-kit Springs in mine (MY17) for almost 7 yrs now, with DCC shocks. No issues. With factory 19s... With aftermarket 19s....

Link to download MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 sent in PM

@pab567 hope to your help

Today I removed the Ali express blind spot detection kit. I wasn’t comfortable with how it worked. It only detected vehicles that were gaining on you, if they were alongside at the same speed the light went off. It only detected 80% of those vehicles that gained on you. It just flat out did not work in the rain. And when visibility is poor is when you need it most. If I cannot trust it 100% then it’s not worth having. It was always just an experiment and proof of concept to see what the kits were like. No wires were cut as part of the install so removal was straightforward. No harm done other than £40 and my time. And I enjoyed the experiment so it was just a small cost. I am wholly expecting some “I told you so” comments! I may look to do OEM fit in future but for the cost even with second hand parts, and the in depth coding required, probably not for what I would gain. Hopefully finish off the front OPS set up today if the unit I am waiting on doesn’t need a new dataset.

Thank you for your help, muchly informative.

Thanks for this, but that claim is misleading and so full of contradictions that you cannot realistically believe a single word of it. This extract alone is a pretty good example of the poor quality of the article. "While the EVs’ gains reflect rapidly improving technology, the greater availability of charge points and increased availability of electric models - in 2015 the EV options were primarily small cars - the company also points out that the mileage driven by petrol cars has been falling since the pandemic. In fact the average annual petrol mileage is down 12 per cent over the decade, which among other things Cap hpi attributes to more home working reducing the need for commutes, and the rise of online shopping, meaning cars are left on the drive more often." So are they seriously suggesting that working from home only applies to workers who have a fossil fuel-burning car? Come on, get real and stop grabbing at any headlines that seem to support your love of EVs as proof that ICE cars are falling from grace. Let's examine what we all know to be true: the vast majority of EVs (by EVs I mean BEVs) are, in fact, purchased as company cars, and these will fall into two broad groups: 1 - those that need a car to do their job and 2 - those that have a company car either as a perk or a sign of their rank and position with a company. In other words, company directors and senior management, or those who have used a salary sacrifice scheme. Those in group 1 will be doing miles in their car on behalf of the company and will have replaced fossil-burning cars in that capacity. Those in the second group will likely be those who can work from home, and that would apply to EV and ICE owners/drivers alike, not as the RAC seems to suggest ICE only.

Which TRW and Ferodo brake pads are used for the front and rear of the Scala? 1.0 tsı 2020

Have a search of the forum, there's a few people who've raised this previously. I had seen a couple recently where someone had followed the path 1664 > 1941 > 1985 without any issues. I had also seen someone go direct from 1664 > 1985. But if you're at all concerned about doing it, or not confident then it may be easier to take it to a dealer. As your car is on a very early infotainment, it's very likely there are other modules that would also benefit from an update such as the OCU.

Hi I now only get the warning on the dash cluster and the dings when the glovebox is open which I can live with. I cannot find anything else I can do to stop it.

@Justo Did you get your windscreen issues resolved?

There was a post on here a while ago from a member who had their windscreen replaced. After it was done the windscreen wipers were randomly activating. It looked to be because they'd done a messy job with adhesive around the cameras. Here's the link: Link to forum post So I think you need to use the photo you've already got of the camera area, and then make sure it looks identical after they replace the windscreen or you could have issues.

Negative electricity rate in the middle of today. Sunday looking good to for zeroish rates. Interesting fact, Henry Winkler did not ride motorcycles, also Daniel Craig has only got an automatic car licence !!

Older report from the RAC... https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/electric-vehicles-news/what-range-anxiety-ev-drivers-rack-up-more-miles-than-those-using-tradition/ But newer one using Solera CAP data, 1.8M sample size from last year.. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/366358/evs-are-officially-covering-more-miles-ice-cars EVs do over 5% more miles on average.

Sounds like you've got some wiring damage somewhere that's shorting a permanent live to chassis when wet. Ensure scuttle drains are flowing freely as a first step, and inspect loom sections within scuttle while you're in there. There aren't any relays associated with power steering, but the PAS does take large currents when in active use, so you're hearing other relays cut in and out as the voltage drop affects them. Indirect symptom of battery at low state of charge.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q=Lowering%20Springs&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=299&start_after=any&updated_after=any

Hello guys . Does anyone have the ORU3 - OCU - SW0311 – Octavia (O3A8) software file where I can download myself ? My SO4 OCU is running an very old firware and I want to install a new version since I cannot become primary user at all Thank you

You can use inline oil/dye injector can, basically an openable metal can plumbed inline or via a tee with gas. you fill the can with oil and then pump gas through it making sure oil goes with the gas. The nice thing about using this way is that you can also vacuum impurities from the new oil, just make sure the new oil stays in the can while you pump the system out. There exist also standalone oil injection kits (think high pressure syringe), but I'd steer clear of these as it is too easy to reintroduce air/moisture. As I had said earlier, another oil/dye injector can filled with filtering paper in it can be used for opposite purpose, i.e. extracting oil from the gas. One other thing I remembered about the job is that to get really good vacuum from the budget vacuum pump, you need fresh oil in the vacuum pump, in my case I emptied the system, closed off the pump, changed the vacuum pump oil again then ran it and then reopened the valve to the pump. I was able to get a lot better vacuum in that way, I think some of the remnant gases / vapours dissolve in vacuum pump oil and make for poor vacuum. Vacuum oil is not expensive, just mentioning it because it's worth getting a 1l bottle before the job.

Its my sons car and I change oil annually. He does about 5 to 6 k a year but tend to give it an annual service just before MOT. I drive it randomly and cant say I have noticed any major rattles or noises. Was just a bit paranoid but reckon will leave it and keep an ear out. Alasdair

I've tried in any possible way to remove it in mine, both using VCDS and OBD11 and it proved an impossible task. Gone in all the menus "predictive sailing" et al. and nothing. I got recently the habit of driving in manual mode, since the logic of the gearbox upshifts and downshift is simply idiotic, so don't bother me much the coasting ... The few times I want to ride in 'auto' i put it on sport, or in the other modes I use the gearbox in sport, and upshift 'manual' when it lingers too much in the gears. I hope someday to make a TCU tune and hope some wizardy is able to make it gone. Since this is a sensitive topic, I remark this is "me", in "my" driving in "my" car. To each their own! 😉

Thanks again, as the refrigerant cans are pressurised, how do you get the oil in separately?