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I’m sure he would appreciate it. I needed something in a rush a few weeks ago, dropped them a message around 3pm with the order and it left an hour later with Tracked 24. Just really good service, and not something you get that often these days, unfortunately. My approach would be to make a cardboard template, find the centre point of the pad, and then keep enlarging the hole until it fits nicely. It can be a bit of a bugger to fit, so I’m not sure how much luck you’ll have with regard to the cover sliding into place. If that doesn’t prove possible, I would then consider, as you suggested, making a square cut out, and some sort of cover to go over the top. Of course, there’s always the option of getting some underseal and ditching the covers entirely!

Hi all, I want to remove the turbo wastegate actuator as it is throwing up the P334B fault code and is in limp home mode. My local Indie dealer said it should be a straightforward swap on my model. However, one thing I am unsure of is how many screws hold the heatshield in place, and whether they can all be accessed from the engine bay and not on a lift. The engine is the CBZB with the spark plugs at the front. I did try to undo one of the bolts on the top, but with no success, even after using penetrating spray. If anyone has taken this part off or any recommendations, I'd be grateful. Thanks, John

Got this from AI so ??? 1. The Steering Column Module (J527) is "Bricked" or Frozen A sudden surge during a battery reconnection can easily scramble the volatile memory or freeze the microprocessor of the J527 module. Because the module is completely unresponsive, it is not broadcasting its digital ID over the LIN bus. The BCM, seeing total silence on that data line, assumes the module is physically missing or "Not Installed." How to fix it: Perform a hard microprocessor reset. Keep the car battery connected, but locate the large multi-pin harness plugged directly into the Steering Column Module (under the plastic shroud behind the steering wheel). Unplug it completely for 5 to 10 minutes, then plug it back in. This completely cuts local power to the chip and forces a hard reboot. 2. The BCM Lost its Gateway Coding (EEPROM Corruption) When car batteries are changed, a massive voltage arc can sometimes corrupt the EEPROM memory inside the BCM or the Gateway module. The car hasn't physically changed, but the BCM's internal configuration file has suddenly "forgotten" that a steering column module is supposed to be there. How to fix it: If you are using VCDS, OBDeleven, or a similar high-level scan tool, go into Address 19 (Can Gateway) or Address 09 (Central Electrics / BCM). Look at the Installation List. Check to see if the Steering Column Module (often Address 16) has become unticked or deselected in the gateway configuration. If it is unchecked, re-tick it and save the coding. Why this keeps the Dashboard Blank Even though the BCM sees you turning the physical key via hardwired pins, VAG security and power-distribution logic requires a valid digital handshake over the LIN/CAN bus from the steering column electronics before it will authorize the Instrument Cluster to wake up. Without that handshake, the car stays in a digital "sleep" state to prevent theft. You may have already tried the above but you did say any ideas. Alasdair

Update already done - many thanks!

My current software level is MO13_EU_SKMQB_P33200P (0332) and I am wondering if a newer software level is available and where to get it from as MIBsolution appears to be down?

My daughter's Kamiq SEL has the LED rear cluster and the light is actually very good. When she got the car we fitted an Aliexpress reversing camera which improved reversing a lot more.

One point of possible concern, was the ignition switched on when you connected the battery? - the reason I ask is your sentence ('there was a normal minor spark), the cars ignition went completely dead'

Good read this Proper built car What most can dream of 🤙

When you replace the throttle body did you use a scan tool (OBD scanner) for possible error codes? Have you checked the coolant sensor? It's wires-contacts? The vacuum hose is checked?

You should change everything you could taken from a set like this, was an A' class opportunity since you started the project.

Remember that all of the components of a car will expand and contract and there are many different rates of expansion. It is possible that with a fixed quantity of coolant, that the varying expansion rates may raise or lower the level depending on the temperature, so there may be a difference in level between 30 degrees and 10 like we currently have.

check your PMs

Thanks Beerhuntet17.

Could it be the new zenon ballast thats causing problems. Its the only other thing that was replaced and cant see new alternator or battery being cause. Might be cluster related?? Alasdair

Dear @pab567 I need MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 firmware for Skoda Octavia 3 5E MIB1 Current version is MSTD_EU_SK_P3420, MU0435 Could you please send me the download link/file (via PM)? A big thank you in advance!

£100 seems well worth the investment, especially when measured against the time taken to clean these wheels. My back will also be grateful! Still a bit unsure of the front protection film. You're right about the fragility of the paint these days and we picked up a bonnet chip within just a few days of taking delivery 😢. This is something I will investigate further. If you would be so kind as to let us all know how you find cleaning the rims after the ceramic application? Appreciate it will be next summer before you're able to do that. Best wishes.

I have an Aguri DX4000 which has Speed camera database and speed warnings included. Easy to use App for downloading incidents. Free regular updates to databases. Works really well and gives early warning of approaching Cameras. My other half has a DX1200 in her car. It has a smaller screen but does the same job. Available from their web site and very often at SALE prices.

Are you talking about a drop from MAX to below MIN and an empty tank. Max is MAX and many vehicles then find their own level between MIN and MAX. That is why there is no FILL TO THIS LEVEL mark. There is an overflow. But obviously emptying the reservoir is a different kettle of fish, or a leaking kettle.

My local specialist charges me just £100 to ceramic coat a set of 'simple' wheels. The Veritate is at the upper limit of what he classifies as 'simple' - it would be more expensive if there were more elements to the spokes, different finishes, etc. That cost is also based on the wheels being presented in pristine condition. So they need iron and tar removal, and a spotless clean first. He then does the final de-greasing and surface prep before applying the coating. BTW, he has also quoted 'around £1k' to apply paint protection film to the vulnerable zones on the bumper, bonnet, and wing mirrors. I always assumed PPF was only economically viable for very expensive cars. But the cost to get a handful of tiny chips filled and resprayed on my previous car was in that same ballpark, so I am seriously considering it. (I wish we could just return to the days when car manufacturers were allowed to use proper paint that could survive typical road conditions)

Thanks again, Whenever you get the chance would be grateful although I think I've made my decision anyway. Also happy to buy from your recommended seller if you have had good experiences with him. Re measuring for the hole, my thoughts were to find the centre of the pad (Or hole in the original mount turret) then somehow project that onto the cover and form the cut out from there either with a hole saw or rotary tool. If I can keep it tight and accurate enough might get away without a rubber trim/seal as the cover is not totally watertight anyway.

Not sure but read its similar to VW polo 6R. Found this https://polo.blue/removing-wiper-frame-with-linkage-and-wiper-motor/ They also say remove bulkhead etc. Looks like a nightmare to get to. Alasdair

Lots of info in this thread:

The current UK-marketed Skoda Fabia range comprises 5 models and (depending on the model) the road-wheel diameter can be 15", 16", 17" or 18" and ALL of those wheels are fitted as standard with XL (Extra Load) tyres except for the tyres fitted to the 15" wheels. The Load Index/Speed Rating of the original-equipment (OE) tyres are 15" - 88H 560kg 210 km/h 130mph 16" - 91V 615kg 240km/h 149mph 17" - 91W 615kg 270km/h 168mph 18" - 89W 580kg 270km/h 168mph Car manufacturers will ALWAYS specific OE tyres that have Load Index/Speed Rating values that significantly exceed the car's weight and speed maxima. The unusual thing with the Fabia Mk4 is that, irrespective of the specification of the model, the tyres it has and the 'load it is carrying, a single 2.5bar (36.26psi) inflation-pressure is recommended - and that's going to result in a firm ride. It's more common for a range of inflation pressures to be recommended that depend on the load the car is carrying, (eg. 2 people + some luggage, 4 people + a lot of luggage) - that's the case for my 2009 Skoda Roomster, but not for my 2024 Fabia Mk4. My Roomster's has 15"-diameter alloy wheels and its current tyres are Falken 195/55 85V. Its OE tyres were same-size Continental products, but with an "H" speed-rating (and an unpleasant propensity to 'tram-line'). The Falken tyres I chose happen to have a V Speed Rating, but an H rating would be perfectly adequate for the Roomster. If I inflate the Roomster's tyres to the recommended '2 persons' pressure of 2.2bar/32psi, its ride is quite firm, but if the pressure drops to 2.0bar/29psi (say in very cold weather) I can notice the ride has softened until the tyres warm up. There is plenty of online information about reinforced tyres and their pros and cons (example here) https://www.oponeo.co.uk/blog/reinforced-tyres-advantages-and-disadvantages?srsltid=AYCX9vIGhJmxcwleoqvmkKT3jXlu30Pdd7Xvt3STUArNoCiiXKa but the reality is (and whether you like it or not) except for the OE tyres fitted to Fabia Mk4 cars with 15" wheels, Skoda has chosen to use XL tyres and - unless you change your car's tyres to the non-XL variety in the hope this will make a real improvement comfort-wise - if a Fabia Mk4 has 195/55 R16 91V XL tyres, all that can be done in order to obtain a softer ride quality is to reduce the inflation pressure. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/539692-lower-tyre-pressures-to-improve-ride/#comment-6014748

I'd be very interested to learn from your experience with the rims after you have had them ceramic coated and they are recmounted for the summer months. Also, do you have thoughts on the approximate cost? Thank you @Coral-C

I did a thorough exterior wash after my long road trip last week. It took about 2.5 hours in total ... of which at over 1 hour was just the flipping wheels 😠 My winter wheels with the simpler rims are ready to fit, so I'll get a chance to do a deep clean on the Veritates when they come off the car. They're already booked in for ceramic coating after that, which might make things a little easier next summer.