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Hi, I have the same TDI200 4x4 MY 22. 1) Not paid attention to this yet. I'll take a look 2) No 3) I don't think so. Maybe @Cairus knows...
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I may throw some solid scabby patches on to get an MOT and then I can try and steal some ramp time to do the sills properly. thinky face emoji.
Today
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Rear springs for the Superb MK2 marked (1 White, 3 Orange, 1 Brown) has OEM part number 1K0511115DE and build code 0YE. 3C0511115AF is two up in the hierarchy compared to 1K0511115DE. Sach 994 337 rear springs (matches 1K0511115DE) Wire diameter 12.25mm Length 362mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0511115de?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=32&supplier%5B%5D=246 Sachs 994 364 rear springs (sold to replace 3C0511115AE, 3C0511115AF) Wire diameter 12.75mm Length 357mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3c0511115af?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=32&supplier%5B%5D=246 Kilen 65059 rear springs (matches 3C0511115AF) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391130827593
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Right, don't get excited, there's no REAL progress, the sills are still a hellscape, we're just regrouping to figure out a new attack plan for that. But... new bouncy guys went on after some fine pitch nuts got delivered this week. They're MUCH less horrible than what they replaced and the back returns nicely when you shove it down. I touched up the DON'T sign on the beam with a paint pen so it's a bit more readable. I HAVE new bearings for the rear hubs, but since it's the pit of winter now and this thing isn't going to get legal till next summer at the earliest I decline to fit them just to sit and rot, till then this kind of race surface is FINNNNEEEEE you shut up. It's back on its four feet, it'll need a bit of brake bleeding but at least it will be yard drivable again whilst sill plans get formed. What a piece of trash.
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I'm going to replace my timing chain in my Toledo 1.2 TSI with CBZB engine. The official Seat procedure from ERWIN says: - The engine control unit must always be adapted after the timing chain has been renewed or after the previously removed timing chain has been reinstalled. - Depending on whether a new or a previously removed timing chain is being installed, different procedures for adapting the engine control unit apply. - If the learnt values are not adapted, consequential damage may result. - Not all engine control units support the procedure described below. If the engine control unit does not support the function below, the described procedure is not applicable. Using VAS-PC: Press following buttons on display one after the other: 1 Guided Fault Finding 2 Select vehicle 3 GoTo 4 Function/component selection 5 Select engine version 6 Timing chain removed/installed I have experienced before (when wanting to trigger the function for re-calibrating end stops on the HVAC flaps), that even the very comprehensive system that is owned by a competent mechanic who I know, cannot access some functions, and therefore may not be able to access this one. How critical is it that it be done? I believe that the ECU will learn over time any differences introduced in replacing the chain, but I also understand that any averaging that it does, will be based on a much longer history already in the memory - hence their instruction that it must be adapted. So I think if not adapted, it will just take some mileage to re-adapt itself, but the question is, is there any harm in this?
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Click on 'Start New Topic' To update your email address, click on your profile then it's either 'account settings' or 'edit profile'.
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5GE 810 773 B is the part number wirer refers to in his link.
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Seems like it is my turn to have this issue. It has stuck closed a few times before, but today I could not get it open... So i used some force, and pryed it open. The actuator rod actually came out, but pressing it in to test it, it stuck again in the closed positition. From what I can figure out, the correct part is 5GE 810 773 B. Is this correct?
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It is a little surprising, but just the way things are done in recent decades. The interference fit of the crank sprocket is sufficiently tight that removing the old sprocket may be considerably more difficult than fitting the new one. The tightening of the cam sprocket screw needs to be carefully done so that all the force of the tightening is against the counterholding of the pulley. Having the locking tools in place will not be a problem here, but the cam one particularly is an alignment guide, not a force resisting component. I would imagine that at 120k there would be minimal wear on the crank sprocket, so it could be left original if you struggle. I believe the majority of the wear in the system that is generally thought to be chain elongation is actually just wear of the plastic chain guides, which effectively shortens the path that the chain follows. So make sure those are replaced.
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Finding the source can be tricky as you have found out. Oil has a habit of defying the laws of gravity etc. Best option is to clean it up and see if you can trace where its coming from. If its a small area then a can of brake cleaner will do. If its over a bigger area I use Gunk and then power wash. Is it definitly oil and not brake/clutch fluid? Alasdair
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To post a topic/question/thread on the site.....this one is simple asked on someone else's thread. I also need to change my address.....as suggested.
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About 120,000. The reason I want to replace it (and thoroughly) is that it has been making the "normal" timing chain noise for years, but recently I think it has got worse - in particular, it isn't just noisy for 3 or 4 seconds after starting the engine, but seems to stay noisy until the first time I get the revs up. I'm hoping to not replace the car any time soon, so I believe I just have to do this before it's too late.
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mancube joined the community
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Thank you. It's interesting to me that they're free floating. I'm not a mechanical engineer, so I don't know enough to have a strong opinion, but I'm surprised that such a critical thing is done in this way - especially as I would think there is a lot of tension in the chain as it pulls the camshaft around against the force of the valve springs. I note from the procedure that when it comes to doing the second stage of the camshaft sprocket tightening (the further 90 degrees after the initial 50Nm), it doesn't instruct to leave in the crankshaft locking bolt and the camshaft clamp. So the camshaft sprocket bolt is to be tightened up purely against the sprocket counterhold tool, and the camshaft clamp T10414 is not in any way intended to hold the camshaft against this tightening - is that correct? It doesn't even say to check the timing again after doing the second stage tightening - so I assume there is no way that the sprocket can slip round a bit during that 90 degree tightening? Again, I want to not mess this up.
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All items available for collection from North Lowestoft Suffolk Skoda Bolero multi media stereo head unit. (CD player, MP3 playback support, and SD card slot.) Full working order. Part No: 1Z0 035 156F. £45. Silver and black main surround. Part no: 1Z0 858 069 DF Excellent condition. £25 Silver main surround. Very small scuff on front. (See 2nd from last photo). Part no: 1Z0 858069 RS £25 Bolero black stereo inset surround. Excellent condition. £8 Genuine Skoda octavia vrs Mk2 rubber boot liner. Great condition. See photos for measurements. VAG group car jack and towing eye kit. In polystyrene holder to fit in spare wheel well. Excellent condition. £40. Shell Helix 5w/30 oil and zip up case (to protect car from any leaks). Full bottle, never used. £12. Genuine skoda bonnet badge. Small scuff on surface. Part no: 1U0 853 621C. £10 Genuine skoda boot badges. Great cond. Part no. 3U0 853 621C. £10 VAG group 16 inch spare wheel and tyre. Part No: 1K0 601 027K. £50
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Yeah, I heard the other day watching an old(ish) John Oliver show. I will not miss it. I saw it live couple years ago when I was in the States and was utterly unimpressed ... far worse that in the photos, see it / touch it / sit on it ...
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Hello! Is it still possible to receive the update file?
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Try it, absolutely! You will get a feel for the different way the car behaves.
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Kristijang joined the community
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keviiow joined the community
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Wife managed to get her Samsung S23 into the wireless charger with the phone base flush with the charger surface, and still in its protective case. The phone then charged slowly, but commensurate with the claimed 15 watt wireless charger rate.
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Sabri joined the community
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farny2511 joined the community
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Yep, diesels are now less reliable than petrols and cost a fortune to fix. With all the emissions systems either petrol or diesel put out virtually nothing anyway, and the taxes on them are just money making scams, or at best virtue signalling, all the time driving UK economy downhill.
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Im gone anyway. Not wasting my time here anymore.
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I suggest all involved 'wind their necks in' otherwise people may find themselves taking a short holiday.
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People like you stop people like me trying to help others. Been here before. Wind your neck in. Your triggering me now I am drawing a line now, want nothing to do with you in future.
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Says he who is doing exactly that
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