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Id be more inclined to go on mileage, and if its one you want to keep for a while, do more often than 15000. I do the oil in mine every 7,500 because oil is actually pretty cheap. 1.4 TSI engine I get whatever VW502 is on special and change it more often. If the 504 is on special I get that but my understanding is the 504 only gives extended service intervals so not worth it in my case

Yeah, I think the main work is the refill procedure and pipe connections. I think the actual matrix is fairly easy to access

Nice. Im keen I wonder how detailed it is. Keen to hear the feedback. I got a Haynes and a Gregory's in the past. Gregory's was way superior. Just better graphics and explanations. More detail.

Just after sunset this evening...........

I agree with 26DIPP. For the sake of a few pounds I will have the oil and oil filter changed at 9,000 miles to preserve the life of the engine and turbo, as I have done with all my cars that I tend to keep for 9 years or so. However I also have a look and smell the oil on the dipstick as well at about 6,000 miles to see how dark and smelly it is! As for filters, the air filter gets looked at every year and replaced before it gets really dirty, likewise the cabin filters. Basically I don’t trust manufacturers schedules any more. Also I don’t trust cheap chain car servicers who use inferior generic oil filters not fit for purpose. My local reliable independent has got used to me supplying him the desired oil, correct filters, sump washer for him to fit during the past 30 years He is happy as he says he wastes a lot of time arguing with Eurobits factors and FSG plc that they have sent him the incorrect poor quality part and service item on the van. Unlike others I believe the 0-20w Castrol Edge LL IV spec meeting Volkswagen requirements is better for these Turbocharged cars in UK. I will revise that opinion as Global warming takes hold and my turbocharger catches fire!

The bosch md1 [ tdi ] ecu's in vag cars from around 2020 are locked from the factory and it has taken until now for someone to crack them. ECU needs to be removed and sent away for unlocking, then a remap can be done in the normal way. There's only 2 places doing the unlocking at the moment but that's likely to change in the future. DC Remapping UKNew ECUs We Can Unlock | DC Remapping UKThe locked, encrypted ECUs (Bosch MG1 / MD1) we now bench-unlock in-house - across BMW, Porsche, VAG, Land Rover, Ford and more, with the models each covers.

Yes! Best post ever! Just ordered mine!

To be honest the biggest faff with heater matrix is draining the coolant and then if you flushed it, disconnecting pipes, might as well bite the bullet and replace, not sure flushing would be that effective (I replaced mine). Lots of blocked matrix threads going on!

I had this on mine, but I believe the tell tail signs it's the matrix being blocked, is that the passenger side is warm and driver side hot. It's pretty reliable how it faults, not on and off. Outside air temp has an effect though, the blocked matrix really shows itself on cold days.

I’m travelling at the minute but will see if I can read level with my scanner when I’m back at my car as I don’t have dcc

@AroCz - which channel r u reading the values from? I'm assuming this is on module 55 - Headlight, given urs is MY16 This is the Basic Settings values of mine (with DCC). However this with all 4 wheels hanging, for the DCC Recalibration procedure. I'll c if I can get the readings with the car sitting normally.

Hello, I’ve noticed this “swooshing” sound on my 3.6 fsi after releasing gas pedal, I know this sound is expected on NA engine but not that noticeable. Haven’t done anything to the engine in few months so everything should be tight without any leaks, should I look for some loose vacuum connection of valve cover gasket leak, maybe pcv? thank you for any advise IMG_2178.mov

So much easier to remove the driveshaft out of the hub, even on the drivers side it's a struggle. Undo the 3 X nuts bottom of ball joint, drive shaft hub bolt, split the hub at the back at it should drop down. No need to remove tie rod end

So, did this myself today. Likewise, dpf and egr are mapped out. Car has been using coolant since about 100k miles. Now on 180k and worse than ever after changing everything but the head gasket. This is the last chance before I get rid of it. Link below to the connector I used. You need under the car to get at the bottom coolant hose on the egr cooler and the top hose from the top of the engine. Once both are disconnected the connector piece is just about long enough to bring the two hoses together. You will probably make a mess even with hose clamps to try stop the flow. If you don’t have the vw hose clamp pliers for removing the hose clamps you might struggle https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/20mm-car-heater-breather-hose-connector-straight-nylon-pa66

Yep use a 3/4 breaker bar, its too much for a 1/2 especially when you need to re torque the new one (200nm + 180°)

There's a website to check these things called willtheyfit

My guess is the cheap n80 is to blame. Buy cheap buy twice the saying goes, don't mess around buy genuine. A poor fuel cap seal can also throw codes. That 'port' on the intake is normal and shouldn't have anything attached to it.

Thank you. Am i on the right way?

Thank you, let me know what you are gonna find out for number 1 🫣😉

Are these breather holes?

Will send you PM

Yes please

I'm sorry I missed your message. Do you still need my help?

Absolutely, an ideal idea for Christmas - I think that that was when I first bought my VCDS back in Christmas 2000 or 2001!

Hi, This one is pretty similar to what I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135709654756?_skw=skoda+autodimming+mirror&itmmeta=01M7DMZXN61REXT0AH6R7YJYKB&hash=item1f98ecfee4:g:znYAAeSwKc9oAQnn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde%2F%2BScYTeFLpcKeZnqF5dZO0ylDeF3GRHZdHMdn8SqTeEO8hd%2BpRQ2%2FH1t72tPfLx%2Fc0ducyTE70z2w2PmhTBauWmldtyuJIWog9BCRgw9SFeWoqJaW0y8TqVIj178qJZFCbKUKhtTCl7%2BCytucDeiL7lAoycn95mPDUQ04E8yrtRvxpId4AfLjUhtYEvLse7mNfqd7qUgLlZSCmfAo3UYcjMDewVgh9qtxG4rszDdixwwk5HfwmyOITsqKO895nr4U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Lb_7S7aA It does have the wiring connection included. The Fabia mirror / windscreen is a different design from the Superb. The FII uses a small foot / mount which is also integral to the windscreen whereas the SII and other cars use a larger bracket - 3AA845543B. The larger bracket fits around the small FII one and I hid it with the screen adhesive. You will get it from a dealer.