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Well after 3 years in the Kia wilderness thanks to an ignorant and insulting Skoda dealer getting my back up I have finally returned to the brand, after previously having an Octavia and 3 Superbs before the Kia Sportage, which wasn't a bad tank to be fair, I'm relieved to be back in the lap of luxury in my new to me 190 Sportline DSG, 100 miles of comfortable driving done just today since I picked it up at 11!!😁😁😁

Now that the Kodiaq facelift seems to have been pushed back from this summer to early 2021, the Karoq might have been pushed back to 2022? But as recent facelifted VAG cars have been removing physical buttons in favour of unergonomic touchscreens, I'm buying a Karoq while I can still get a car that I believe to be a better designed car for a driver (as opposed to a phone user!) Chris

After much difficulty trying to research turbo upgrade options for other members, I decided it's probably worth making some sort of list of turbos that can be bolted straight onto the 1.2 TSI. See the second post for a quick simple installation guide and other suggestions/advice. Which Turbo do I want? For some reason, despite them all being pretty much the same power, and all being used in what's effectively the same chassis, there's about 25 different engine codes and just as many different turbo models. It's quite a mess, so i've tried to organise them here. It's also just been made aparent that there's some variants (seems like any ACT ones) which use a different style of wastegate actuator, they're also made by a different company and have different turbine designs, they should all provide the same final power, but might have slightly differing boost characteristics. 1.2 TSI Turbos - Standard - The original turbo on your car should be one of these, unless your turbo died, there's no point buying these. 04E 145 721 L 04E 145 713 B 04E 145 713 Q 04E 145 704 T 04E 145 704 L 04E 145 704 N 04E 145 703 Q 1.4 TSI Small Turbos - Avoid - Same size as the 1.2 TSI but with different shaped exhaust housing, you won't see any gains with these. 04E 145 721 E 04E 145 721 R 04E 145 713 N 04E 145 704 F 04E 145 704 R 1.4 TSI Large Turbos - Avoid - Has an additional sensor on the exhaust housing, stay away unless someone confirms it's removable and fits. 04E 145 721 C 04E 145 721 G 1.4 TSI Large Turbos - Avoid - These have a different type of Wastegate actuator, stay away unless someone confirms it works. 04E 145 722 G 04E 145 721 P 04E 145 715 B 04E 145 715 D 04E 145 715 E 04E 145 715 F 1.4 TSI Large Turbos - Best Choice - Matching Wastegate and confirmed working by myself and others. 04E 145 721 B 04E 145 721 F 04E 145 704 C 04E 145 704 P Purchasing Options New turbos can be bolted straight on the day it arrives in the post, though they're incredibly expensive and will set you back potentially by more than £600. Remanufactured/Refurbished turbos are a cheaper alternative for an equally safe purchase, and are also good to bolt on the day it arrives, these go for usually around the £350 mark, sometimes some pop up a bit lower though. Used turbos are by far the cheapest option, but it's advisable to have it rebuilt. A used turbo will set you back around £100-150, having it rebuilt will cost you around the £100-150 mark, total cost roughly £250. When purchasing a Used Turbo If possible, collect it in person before commiting to the purchase so you can inspect it to ensure it is the correct part and that there is no damage. A damaged turbo can still be repaired, but a repair will set you back closer to £250-300. If there's any damage to either intake compressor or exhaust turbine, or if it does not rotate freely (be very gentle when attempting to spin it, it's very fragile), it's not worth your time or money. Use brake or carb-cleaner to clean out any oily residue (try not to get it in the oil channels, as you do want oil in those, but cleaning the coolant passageways is fine). But again, do not poke anything in the blades, they are easily damaged! I'd recommend to check a few turbo refurb companies for rebuild prices, then checking how much you can get hold of a turbo for, both used and refurbed, and proceed from there before actually purchasing anything. Disclaimer should you choose to install a used turbo without having it rebuilt or at least inspected by a professional: I advise against doing so, and I shall NOT take any responsibility for any damages incurred by YOUR actions. Turbos spin sometimes upwards of 250,000 RPM, the slightest of imbalance from any kind of damage, can result in catastrophic failure! This could potentially send metal shards through your engine, completely ruining your engine too! Just get it rebuilt already!!!

Looks like a 5 year warranty in NZ. Screen shot of a NZ sales video on YouTube.

Hi guys. I had the fault code P0079 code on my 2015 1.6 CR Tdi. This indicated a fault within the exhaust flap control unit. I nearly died when Skoda quoted £378 for the part alone. Apparently this is because it includes the exhaust section. However, after a bit of searching my mechanic found the orginal Pierburg unit by itself for £116 and he fitted it within 15 minutes retaining the exhaust section. I think he got it from TPS. Just a bit of info for anyone who has that fault code. Cheers.

Actually it's not 'obvious' that the infotainment was on. At least it's working now.

Adrianflux john999

as far as i know, a few have made comments about how the dashboard illumination behaviour is weird, mainly in low light (dawn/dusk) conditions. the same thing with VW forums. i found the above info from a lengthy in-depth discussion on the ross-tech forums. there were trying to understand the link between the dashboard lights, the light sensor, and the headlight position switch. quite scientific in fact. but the end result was the above.

What kind of gains can i get? The lower power 1.4 TSI (122/125PS models) use the same size turbo as the 1.2 TSI, only the 140/150PS variants use a larger turbo. Given that with no other mods, when mapped the difference between the two turbo sizes of the 1.4 TSI is roughly 30PS, we can expect the 1.2TSI should produce around 160PS (130PS being a common Stage-1 level map) with the larger turbo. Obviously, with other mods like a sport-cat or intakes, this may well increase further - sometimes by more than 20PS, possibly achieving more than 180PS. Torque probably won't change much if at all though, it'll just hold that torque to higher rpms. So, to summarise, with no other mods, probably around the 160PS mark, with torque somewhere around the 240NM mark. Can I fit it without mapping it straight away? Yes, but the larger turbo has different boost characteristics, it will run fine, but it barely provides any torque until about 2000 rpm, where the stock turbo provides strong torque from just 1400 rpm. You will also notice that it feels like the engine is breathing much better beyond 4500 rpm, it just keeps on going where before it would feel like it ran out of puff. The turbo is barely doing anything yet it pulls so well. This will all change when mapped - which i haven't yet done - and i'll be certain to update you all when i have had it done! What else do I need to fit it? You should buy a Gasket Set for it, this comes with new seals for the oil lines, charge pipe, coolant lines and new exhaust gaskets. You can get one from here: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/elring/9970020 they take sometimes up to 2 weeks to arrive, but it's got everything you need in there. Can I fit it myself? Yes, for tools, you'll need your standard metric socket set, 8mm through till 15mm is enough, you'll also want a T30 bit, and a 6mm Hex bit (a T40 bit works if you don't have a 6mm Hex bit). There's one more bit which is called a Triple Square Spline bit, it's like a 12point Torx, and i've no idea what size it is, i'll let you figure that one out for yourself! It's metric though. There's 3 bolts which use that bit, visible from under the bonnet there's 3 of them, they secure the heatshield (which also serves as a brace), onto the turbo and the engine. You'll want some vice grips (mole grips, moll grips, lockjaw grips or whatever you like to call them), to release the hoses off the intake pipes. Finally, you will also want to lift the front end of the car on some axle stands, never work under a car with just a jack! If you're not confident, just take it to a garage. Tips for installation / Simple instructions. First thing you should do is unplug the wastegate connection, that's just behind the back of the intake pipe as it goes into the turbo. Take off the entire airbox (disconnect the flexi from the turbo intake, and the cold air feed - you'll need those vice-grips for this), it just pops on/off 3 nubbin type things, give it a tug and it comes off easily. Take off the charge pipe, it's just got two clips on either end, chances are the rubber seal has probably stuck itself, so it might be a bit tough, but once you get it moving it'll come off fine. Cover the throttle body! You don't want to get anything in there! I stuck a rubber glove over it. Next, open the coolant reserviour to release any pressure, then follow the pair of metal lines round from the turbo till the rubber lines, move the metal clips an inch or two away from the end, and the rubber hoses will pull off. Now go ahead and remove all the bolts for the coolant and oil lines (when you're underneath the car, there's a plastic/aluminium heatshield which can be removed by taking out the two bolts, you'll gain a lot more access by removing that). Pull all the oil and coolant lines off (there's one in particular that's a bit tight - that's what she s....) from the turbo, so no you're just left with the turbo. Unbolt and remove the heatshield/brace, that's those wierd 12-point torx bits and a couple random 10mm bolts if i remember correctly, and now the only thing left is to remove the turbo from the exhaust. Now i'd suggest to loosen the exhaust clamp, but don't fully undo it, so when you take off the manifold nuts the turbo can't just drop off - as it's easier to get at the nuts from underneath the car, you don't really want a turbo dropping on your face! Once you've got the manifold nuts off, you can fully undo the exhaust clamp, it might take a bit of tapping with something metalic to free it up, then you can pull out the turbo (from the top). If you're replacing the manifold studs, now's the time, they're easily accessible from the top now. Install the shorter threaded side of the new studs into the manifold, the longer side *might* fit, but it also might bottom out (the threads about 25mm and the hole is about 25mm too), in which case you risk cracking the head! Now just do everything in reverse, but with the new turbo, don't forget the exhaust gaskets! (there's one that goes between the manifold and the turbo, and one metal ring one that goes between the turbo and exhaust). Putting everything back in was a doddle compared to getting everything back out. It took me 8 hours in total, and I ended up quite sunburnt! Don't go mad with tightening the oil/coolant line bolts, they weren't in particularly tight from factory anyway, if you're really worried put some loctite, just don't over torque them! Manifold nuts and the exhaust clamp do need to be tight though, exhaust leaks can damage other stuff in the engine bay, make the engine not poorly (incorrect readings from the O2 sensors), and will fail the MOT if you left it that long! Adaptation is advised but not necessarily required for the wastegate (I didn't do it on mine and it's been fine). Before fitting, ensure the wastegate is able to open and close (it is a fairly stiff mechanism but it is quite possible to move it by hand), If it's completely stuck then spraying some GT-85 both inside the exhaust housing where the wastegate protudes through, and in the actuator mechanism itself will work wonders and should reduce the chance of limp mode occuring.

Does anyone have the part numbers and perhaps the part numbers for the retaining clips for the gloss black monte sideskirts? Or is it possible to bond the skirts on without the retaining clips? Thanks in advance.

Sadly 'General guides' do not apply here. @Carlston what age of Skoda do you have and maintain? Sadly with modern VW Group discs / Skoda discs the days of them outlasting 2,3 or 4 sets of pads are over. The discs are what can become covered in cosmetic rust easily, then badly rusted edges, and even the braking surface on the far side delaminating. There are plenty examples of this in this and other sections of this forum. This is why Dealership Workshop Employees upselling is out of order because they need to be trusted and be honest. Location location location, use and type of driving, parked on road or not in winter and various things come into play, and if a car is on variable servicing and looked at every 2 years, and a MOT each year after 3, but not actual servicing of the brakes, maybe not even a brake fluid change means best not generalise when it is peoples safety involved.

Everyone has their own beliefs & comfort zones, in the above example I would not check the tracking and I have my own Dunlop optical tracking guages, others would pay a garage to check it for peace of mind. The only thing doing the above work that could influence the tracking in any way would be if the new strut had a huge bend in it i.e. not cylindrical and concentric enough to throw out the camber which would have a marginal effect on the tracking & of far less importance than the camber change. The reason I invested in tracking guages was seeing what a terrible job most garages did of it, throwing the delicate things around never NEVER not even once checking the zero setting (takes 10 seconds) before using, when finding the car was within limits most if they were not being observed would change the setting on one track rod so that they could charge and in doing so put it out of track and leave the steering wheel misaligned. Whenever anyone says to me they have had their vehicle tracked I ask is the steering wheel straight? Often the answer is no, I put my guages on and find its out of limits, I look for the trackrod that has been adjusted, usually I can just see the position it was and move it back, tighten the locknut and check the guage to find its then exactly where it should be. Aside from the abuse of the delicate instruments the real problems started with "free tracking checks"

I never like them to be unchecked for long. But a dry Pollen Filter can be taken out, vucuumed and blown through with air and the area washed and it put back, or changed. Same with Air Filters, if clean each time checked then if you want to spend money then replace, but if your are not in dirty cities / towns / traffic and maybe country areas with lots of stour then filters can be good for 3 or 4 years. Location location location. Servicing and maintenance is what car care is all about, not just spending for spending sake IMO.

Are you sure you need new discs? Claiming you need new discs is a common garage scam. Best to check the condition yourself. If the car passes its MOT, then your brakes are working fine. The MOT tester will probably tell you if your brake pads are getting low.

I feel privileged to be your first 😘 Messing, happy to move on!

I don't see anything to worry about. It is more important that the sensor sends the correct values of vacuum and air temperature. I would record a trip (using VAG-COM - Data Logging of relevant values) from start to engine stall. Then upload it to have a look at it.

The short answer is "NO". Many bodies / organisations have compared different diesels - cheap supermarket vs. "premium" - and they all come up with similar results. No more power when tested on rolling road. No better fuel consumption in real world tests. No better engine protection. There are only a handful of refineries in the UK and everybody buys from them. You will subsidize the companies by using the premium stuff.

Yes, the run flat tyres are harder riding than standard tyres. For the softest ride, it also best to fit tyres without rim protection moulded into the sidewall, non extra load tyres, and not a higher speed index that you need. According to wikipedia, the top speed of the 190HP 2.8 petrol Superb MK1 is 147mph (237km/h) so V speed rated tyres would be adequate. Both Bridgestone Turanza T005 and Continental EcoContact 6 are available in size 225/45R17 with a standard load index (91=615kg), V speed rating, and without rim protection. Some models have rim protection, so check with the seller before purchase if you want the tyres to have no rim protection. Your 17" alloy rims are shown in this online parts catalogue. http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/SUP/year/2007/drive_standart/265/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601055/part_id/2543668/lang/e They are 7Jx17 ET37 specification, which is the minimum width to mount a 245/45 tyre. One of the benefits that you get by fitting a tyre to a minimum width rim is increased rim protection from kerbing damage as the tyre sidewalls will bulge out more compared to fitting them to a wider rim. Also, fitting a 245/45 tyre to the 7J minimum width rim will give maximum comfort from that tyre size. The VW group sometimes fits 245/45 tyres to 7.5J rims, but the ride will be a little harder compared to fitting the same size tyre to the narrower 7J rim. Some owners of Superb MK1 or MK2 have fitted 245/50R17 tyres instead of the standard 245/45R17 tyres. The load index of a standard 245/50R17 tyre is 94 (670kg), so by changing to this size instead of 225/45R17 you can reduce your tyre pressures by about 3 psi (0.2 Bar). A 3 psi (0.2 Bar) reduction is easily noticeably in improved ride comfort. One of the downsides to fitting the higher sidewalled 225/50R17 tyre instead of the standard 225/45R17 is that it raises the gearing which depending on your current gearing could be a disadvantage...especially if feel that the new higher gearing is then too high. Another downside is that 225/50R17 tyres are considerably more expensive than the more common 225/45R17 size. My own preference would be to stick with standard sized 225/45R17 tyres on the Superb MK1 190HP 2.8 petrol, with a standard load index (ie. not XL, eXtra Load), V speed rated, and without rim protection (rim protection is extra rubber moulded into the sidewalls to help protect the rims from kerbing damage. The next improvement is then standard coil springs and dampers.

B6 Bilsteins are the way to go but as Nackuk above they are a motorway cruiser not a sporty handling drive , as above the correct psi/bar pressures are on the filler flap or in the service manual, I have 225/45/17s on mine same wheels and the ride is good over everything except poor road surfaces. Read the water ingress thread stickied at the top and sort out the water leaks asap as they all leak and cause a world of hurt in corroded wiring and electrical nightmares.

How much use has the car had during lock down? If the answer is "not much" I would be more inclined to blame low state of charge of the battery.

Great for those driving around in cars close to failing their MOT, not so useful for those who might have more value in their vehicles. If it's anything like the last scrappage scheme it is only eligible for vehicles aged 10 years or over. Given the fact that the difference between then and now is that most people who used to drive around in older cars and were able to benefit have already chopped them in against a leased car for circa £100 to £200 per month. A price for most budgets... Drive around any housing estate in all but the most deprived areas and on every driveway you'll see shiny new cars on PCH. I'm not entirely convinced a scrappage scheme is going to be as effective this time around.

If it was me I would use vcds to scan the car and read the sensor values and thermostat states. If that will cost a lot I would start with the cheapest to swap, which is probably the temperature sensor. it might be worth considering going back to the dealer if your garage doesn’t have suitable diagnostic equipment as paying for diagnostic is still cheaper than throwing parts after parts at a problem.

I've ordered a set of Koni Actives from Larkspeed this morning, although I don't plan to have them put on until after the cars 2 year service at the end of the month, but that could change.

You'd expect reliability from Toyota but I had 3 Prados break down in 2 weeks in Kuwait!

I've told my insurers about my latest mods and they replied... In response to your query, we have added Suspension Uprated/Lowered/Stiffened Springs & Dampers and Anti roll bars to your policy as you have requested and these have not affected your premium. Please contact us if you have any queries.

I put a set of these in my mk1 vRS. They were very comfy and a worth while upgrade from the standard seats. They bolt straight in

Two topics with similar problems combined to make it easier to solve.

Kind of obvious that range matters to those that need a vehicle that can do longer distances. That is not everyone. Of those that do not need to do long distances or higher annual mileages or have to buy or lease cars and not get assistance with tax breaks then cost matters, and charging infrastructure and maybe just not being interested in what they drive, or changing vehicles. As it is many that want EV's can not yet because the supply is not there, or they are waiting on the new models and then ordering when they are out there and proving reliable. So that will be a few more years possibly with VW Group cars in the £25,000 - £45,000 range. I would not want Bjorn as my driver or even road trip buddy. Pricey, fat cars with no one but the driver in, wide tyres and this is what you get, fill the seats with people and put stuff in the boot and it can only get worse... Seems only sensible to me to have a bike or e-bike in the car to look around an area while the car charges. Especially since there is room with only one or even 2 in the car.

Range is still the biggest factor holding back EV sales. When they all have a 300+ mile range they will become more popular, simples. Ask 100 people in your local town and I bet 75 mention range anxiety as the main reason they wouldn't buy an EV right now followed by price. The Government Grant simply encourages the manufacturers to increase the price new to an artificially high starting point IMHO.

@shyVRS245 It is not difficult, if the EV's do not suit your needs and the price new is too much or the price used then people just do not need to get one. If they cost £10,000 more to buy if you do buy, but saves you £10,000 or more over 3 or 4 years of running an EV then some might run an EV. How many are buying over leasing is a figure that the SMMT might have published somewhere. If leasing and not paying for Petrol / Diesel , parking, congestion charges means you get a vehicle for what you usually spend on buying the liquid fuel & the other stuff then there are those that get an EV, or more than one as many do like taxi, delivery companies and other business's.

Which cars could come in to the sub £30k bracket if the EV grant is doubled from £3k to £6k ? To me it is more about paying not much more than £400 pm on PCP for a 15k miles per year lease. Lower running cost would be a factor but less so than some might think when one has a fuel card so on part of the cost is BIK'd.

thank you! VIN is TMBJR7NU8L5020745 It seems 2020... L is the 10th char.

It's pretty easy, just done it myself recently. From the research I did you need to fill it through the reverse light sensor hole as the gearbox is mounted at an angle where you can't get the correct amount of oil in the proper fill hole, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but this is what I found from researching the job. You need to get the car jacked up and the undertray off. The drain on the bottom of the gearbox is a 17mm allen key. Wear gloves as the old oil stinks! You need to remove the air box to access the reverse light switch. If you are resetting the linkages I would remove the battery and tray aswell to give yourself enough room to work in. Remove the connector from the reverse sensor then use a deep 22mm socket to remove it. Replace the drain plug once completely emptied. Add your oil, 1.9 litres was the amount I was told to put in, using a funnel and small enough pipe. Put everything back together and job done, doesn't take too long, the longest part is draining and refilling the oil. The oil spec I found for that gearbox is 75w gl4.

Agree with the last post. The sensitive allows you to finesse how the RLS reacts to the amount of water hitting the screen. The auto rain system proves most effective when a truck coming the other way or same way and dumps a wave of water on the screen making it impossible to see. Before you can react and move the wipers stalk to fast, the system has engaged the wipers to a speed which possibly exceeds the max setting achieved by the stalk and cleared the screen. Well that’s how it looks. Very useful on motorways at speed in sudden down pours. Also useful to tweak the sensitivity when theres just drizzle. 80% of the time I leave it in the middle sensitive position. Its not everyone’s taste, which is why it is an option in the menu.

From the Kodiaq General Presentation document:

For Superb 2 the procedure was following: set the headlights to service position with VCDS adjust the headlights confirm new zero position with VCDS I guess the same goes for Kodiaq too.

No the speed changes automatically for example with lorry spray. the sensitivity means you can adjust to your preference to avoid smeary dry wipes or it being to slow/fast to react to a few drops for your preference.

Good to here you managed to revert your changes and get back your missing functionality in the menu. The log file proved it's worth! Clever Ross-Tech software guys. And there's a text file in the Scans folder too that made me laugh when I opened it. Reads something on the lines of "Scans are saved here because we were fed up of people saying I didn't save it"😃

Time flies, but seems a facelift version of Ateca is being launched 15 June https://www.seat-mediacenter.com/newspage/allnews/modelrange/2020/New-Ateca-2020-SEAT-reinvigorated-SUV-success-story-is-coming.html Might just be me, but the script style badge reminds me of style used on Porsche Cayenne I am guessing as Karoq was introduced a year later, will have to wait until 2021 for Karoq facelift

If you are after a 'full size' wheel instead of the 18" skinny space saver, then the 17" wheel from a mk7 Golf GT will clear the 245 brakes. They are called the Dijon wheel. We run them on our Golf 245 in winter, same as these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Genuine-17-Dijon-Alloy-Wheel-Rim-7Jx17-5x112-Tyre-225-45-ZR17-5G0601025BH/164192032653?hash=item263a9b978d%3Ag%3A7uYAAOSwxBhetwnq&LH_ItemCondition=3000 As to whether the wheel will fit flush in a mk3 Octavia wheel well, I don't know the answer to that sorry.

The silver Fabia is mine as well. 😂

@shyVRS245 Yes, and a Elite Nav is even more. But then i will pay £945 advance payment, no charging for electric & £62.25 a week, no insurance, no servicing and hand it back in 3 years. & still have a car that has over 300 bhp and cost under £20,000 but £40,000 plus new.

I left the original horn in place and spliced two wires from it to a second horn. Its tricky to find any where to install a second horn but there is a space on the drivers side behind the lower air vent. The horn can be wired up and there is a threaded bolt hole so the new horn can positioned down the hole, behind the air vent, suspended on a metal strip to a bolt fitted to the threaded hole. I think the diesel versions have the intercooler here so you cant do this. Some Fabia have twin horns on the passengers side but have a special bracket mounting them both. My original horn was high so I fitted a new low horn. Gives a much better noise. The old high horn reminded me of Noddy's car!. The wires to the new horn can re run along the bonnet lock cable and then down to the new horn. I have had no trouble with fuses blowing.

This is wat I coded.....

Yes it is. See photo for the MAP sensor part. For the air temperature part, use VAG-com to monitor the value (Engine/Read values/Group 02, field 4). It should be close to outside temperature.

No, she has Samsung, I have a Xiaomi.

With the cars VIN you can check if 'the fix' is outstanding. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

Polished with Menzerna 2500 with Collinite 476 s on top.

I’ll confess to enjoying my first ride of 2020 last week. Very quiet roads. Thoroughly enjoyed a gentle ride. Got myself and the bike back in the groove. A new MOT the next day due to a cancellation slot was a bonus. My 10 day tour to Germany and Belgium (Spa circuit) in May was blitzed of course.