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Hi all, I had some Dunlop SportMaxx tyres fitted about 6 months ago, all four tyres (225/40/R18). My car recently developed a 'humming' noise from the back of the car that sounded like both wheel bearings were going. I had it checked out and it turns out that the rubber compound of the tyres appears too soft for the car and the compound / tread is flattening, causing this humming noise. The garage said they've had it with these tyres with Audi's etc too and recommends to avoid them.

Bought a new light panel the other day, definitely a worthy purchase! I also snapped this one whilst balancing the camera on the window frame which I think came up nicely And lastly I got these 2 today of 2 different Robin in the garden.

The sticker in my Symphony Handbook is in the same form;there is no mention of any other code.

Anyone got knowledge on the automatic braking system. Never convinced my automatic braking has worked from new. When it had its first service I asked main dealer to test and they said front radar sensor needed replacing. Booked in and then told it was only recalibrated. Still not convince so built a polystyrene barrier covered with tin foil. ( not a thatcham test, but not bad for an amateur). At 9mph I drove through it without stopping. At a second run at 12 mph the car braked to a stop about a meter before the barrier, success! I asked dealer why it did not stop at 5 Km per hour as per the handbook. I was told to ignore what is said in handbook. He then added that you have to achieve 27mph before the system sets. when I then informed him that on my second test it worked at 12mph, without first achieving 27 mph, the manager said he would have to speak to his technician before getting back to me. I am still waiting. I am pleased that it works at the higher speed as that is most important for safety, but still would like it to work at the hand book specified speeds as this would protect minor shunts. my friend videoed the test runs which was interesting. Incidentally the tests were carried out on private property , not on the public highway.

You said it!!!

A garage I know had a car on the ramp for a geometry check, they pressed the ignition button while out of the car (through the window), the car was in reverse, and it started and drove out the garage and wrote the car off, and damaged three others parked outside. What a good idea the clutch switch would've been if it hadn't been disabled.

Ah yes, for some reason the OP had a vRS, which is not stated anywhere 🤗. Therefore, Lee01’s answer is the mot useful 🤪

Don't make the mistake of thinking all rear bumpers are the same. Saloon and Estate bumpers will NOT fit a hatchback. Tail lights were different on FL but still fit PFL models.

Have a watch of this video: Unfortunately I haven't a clue what he is saying but it'll give you an idea what to do

If you are an economy minded driver then you will always do better than cruise control, it will accelerate you up to the preset speed with a wider throttle opening than you would, it will maintain the set speed up a hill even if it has to use a wide open throttle whereas you will happily let some of the speed bleed off on a partial throttle opening. Conversely when going down a long hill with either a flat road ahead or better still another hill you will allow the car to exceed your desired nominal speed on the light throttle opening to allow the inertia to carry you further up the hill the other side.

I haven't had any issues with the Kangarooing (Skippy) so far. I have the 1.5TSI. I used to own a 2.0TDI 170, and I miss the torque of a diesel (Before that I had a wonderful beast - 530d with 500NM ) But I think that diesels are becoming a pain in the neck when they get older. DPF, AdBlue, stuck EGR with soot, diesels injector that cost an arm and a leg to replace, glow plugs, ...the smell, ...ugh.

Shy, after 9 months my 1.5 tsi dsg sel has done just over 2000 miles ( dont ask) and has never been on a decent journey. However in a couple of weeks it will be going up the M6 to Glasgow and back around 600 miles. I will be interested in its mpg, brim to brim because its only just loosened up. I will report back but I am hoping for around 50mpg.

It looks like the OEM part number for the 276mm discs with code PR-1ZF is 5Q0615301A Here's a listing for Bosch and Brembo discs matching that part number on autodoc.co.uk https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0615301a?search=OEN+5Q0615301A&supplier[1]=65&supplier[2]=30

Mugello F1 onboard simulation: Jeez that's quick. It'll be one of the fastest circuits all year.

The amount of steering assistance is controlled by firmware, so it's entirely possible that the setting in the SEAT and the Skoda will be different - given that SEAT is aimed at a more sporting image.

Fitting a Multi-Function version of the wheel you posted will still require the same level of trickery and coding as any other so its up to you whether you think its worth it or not. Apart from that I think your current airbag will fit the one you posted as they are the same wheel so I don't see why they wouldn't.

The child locks are definitely mechanical, operated by turning the black circle on the back of the door, near the latch mechanism, with the end of the key. They possibly haven't been turned enough or the cable may have become detached from the internal handle. It'd be quite a coincidence for the cables to become detatched on both sides though.

We are looking at the Sportline spec cars which seem to have alcantra/ fabric seats. I 100% agree re the 'baby proofing' of leather, I have previously failed to get anywhere with the leather debate 😕 I have her 'blessing' to indulge and get a Golf R or Superb Sportline tsi when we could get by with a Ford C/S max or a 1.5 Golf/ Superb estate, all of which would be equally family friendly (more so with the S max) so I don't really want to push my luck for the sake of leather. We would probably look to get seat covers anyway to stop the isofix base messing up the seat fabric!

Some sort of mannequin sounds like a good idea to me - using a bit of humour, depending on how you dress it up, it could be a good talking point. Could have a speech bubble coming from it reminding customers to get in the back and wear a face mask.

I don't live anywhere near Norfolk - although my brother in law does - but please warn other owners by reporting the dealer in the appropriate thread in the forum

Yeah rear ones are virtually new so don't really want to bin them,iam going to put 2 Michelin cross climates on front and get the wheels refurbed at the same time .

@jojocity, why don't you just buy a good steering wheel cover/lock to protect that car, and organise a new second key - then the missing key will get removed from the car's ECU when you hand the keys you have in when getting the new one coded to your car. Only having a single key for a car could end up being extremely risky/inconvenient some time in the future.

Sounds like you've found the answer. But what was the question? (Why are you needing steel wheels?)

It's not as bad as that, the lost key, can be deleted from the ECU using most diagnostic software.

Haha how oddly specific I'm in Melbourne.

Once again, for whoever wants them, here is my latest customised version of EU Speedcams ( July, 2020 ). They consist of EU speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in the menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Enjoy! EU Speedcams July, 2020.zip

Hi, it worked reasonably well. I’d prefer a unit that has it all built in to be honest but it’s not too bad at all. hope this helps :)

The Amundsen has an 8" screen with one knob either side on facelift 2017 models. The earlier 220/230 models from 2013-2016 have physical buttons for NAV and early cars NAV was an option as I bought a Jan 2015 which didn't have NAV. Later facelift cars could have a bigger 9.2" optional Columbus system which was expensive and Canton is extra on all Vrs models but standard on the luxury L & K models.

It's cloned/copied hardware and hacked software based on a very old product. I wouldn't let it anywhere near my car and I'd be amazed if it worked in a useful fashion on a MK2 Octavia.

I sometimes get the opposite, it mutes the music and then doesn't unmute it. It may be a similar issue / setting involved

I had a 2011 Mondeo Titanium X Sport for 3 years - great car in many ways. Swapped it for an Octavia VRS and changed that for my current Superb Sportline Plus. I found the Ford forums helpful but the Briskoda is an amazing place for information. Welcome, by the way!

What part of OZ do you live in because @StealthRS245 has a very nice tuned 245 Octavia in Black Magic and visits this forum? The wheel hop is one of the reasons I switched from my 2017 336bhp Vrs245 to a 4WD Superb 272 for the infinitely better traction. Much more fun when you actually move forward rather than bounce up and down like a demented Mexican cartel leader.

So just to bring this topic full circle.... I dropped the car off at a local Indy in Reading about an hour ago to have them replace the pads. I don't have time at the moment to do them myself. I asked them to check if they needed doing as i was not confident in the statement from the dealer. I just got a call from the Indy... pads are only 50% worn and do not need replacing. 50% over 20,000 miles is reasonable and not unexpected but 85% as sliver said would have indicated erratic driving or a fault which isn't the case. So on the back of this I will collect me car and then go round to skoda and provide them with some feedback.

It seems that when they build Skoda's these days there are a limited supply of them. Might get a carbon fibre cover to annoy those that have the felt cover.

The Mondeo is a very resolved package. I'd be really interested to hear your thoughts on how they compare.

Map updates is fairly easy - go to the Skoda website to find out more.

You guys should taste the luxury of the 16" wheels that I mount in winter. 😊

That's truly appaling. If the dealer doesn't immediately act on that and fix the problem then I would be asking to talk to the dealer principal (head man at that garage) and ask him about their complaints escalation process. I would also be talking to the head office for that dealership franchise.

I asked the question once, I have lived to tell the tale but I advise you to wear a hard hat! I'm off to get some popcorn now 😀

My last Karoq tailgate kept getting watering in it and when I opened it some water would run into the boot. Obviously the dealer couldn't find a problem, but looking at the underside of the tailgate it found four small black grommets, I removed one, lowered the gate and watch water pour out. It cured the problem as it became self baling from then on.

This probably isn’t related but I’ve just had all of the carpets & underlay/soundproofing replaced under warranty due to a leak at near the front offside wing. Apparently there was a gap in the sealant at a joint between the inner wing and bulkhead? Impossible for me to know one way or the other if this was true but the dealer must be fairly confident that it has now been sorted. The car originally went in to have the two campaigns rectified (sunroof drains & AdBlue metering). If sealant can be missed at the front it is just as possible that it could be missed at the rear.

There are drain 'hoses' at each corner of the panoramic roof to drain away any water getting around it. These can block up with debris and cause problems but not I'd hope on a new car! Chris

I seem to remember a similar thread where the garage had to put a mechanic in the boot and spray water around the car to find the fault - which I think was a rubber seal around a rear light assembly? Other possible culprits are a door seal, or seal around the rear windscreen wiper shaft from history with my previous cars. Chris

Thanks for all those who replied to this question. It turns out the locking mechanism on the fuel flap was broken and needs replacing (under warranty thankfully).

Had my 230 on the rolling road yesterday, just to see what power it makes with the Jb4 module (and mst intake kit - elbow, hose and filter). Took it to EFi in Runcorn who are a well regarded mapper and local to me, plus I'd been there before for mapping on another car using Momentum 99 fuel: Stock map - 245.5 bhp/290 lbs ft Map 1 - 273 bhp/330 lbs ft (forgot actual exact figures) Map 2 - 290.2 bhp/340 lbs ft Not bad for a tuning box and definitely not bad for a stock figure, I was more impressed with this one.

A cheeky one from this morning..

Date of registration: August 2011 Colour: Black with Silver Roof Upgrades: RaceChip R, Pipercross Airfilter, Blowoff Valve Adaptor.

these really suit it big fan