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Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/08/20 in all areas

  1. In the style of Jim from Friday Night Dinner.... "Hello All....." It's been a while, nearly 12 months in fact since I gave a proper update, it's been a busy old year. We moved house mid November 2019, not far, less than 2 miles in fact but we have gone from renting to owning again after a few years. Needless to say, the house that was pretty much perfect, move straight in etc has occupied every single hour of spare time and money and the poor car has sat under cover in the new garage. Good news is the house is pretty much finished and the enforced COVID-19 lockdown period has allowed me to finish 5 years worth of house DIY in 6 months! Some of you may remember the slightly bigger garage at the new house, in fact it's a usable large tandem garage that has been significantly enhanced in the period we have been here. I have insulated the roof, plasterboarded, 7x new 6' Twin LED lights, cut and installed a large double glazed window where there was a plain wall, new composite door to the patio as well as grinding the whole concrete floor by hand before laying a screed of Ardex K301 concrete floor compound. Oh yeah and a new electric roller door. The plan was to build a lovely space to keep the car / cars and have a well lit, warm and dry place to do detailing & maintenance, so I have fitted the end of the garage out with units and worktop/tiles to finish it off. Here is how the garage looked to start with.. Fast forward many months of graft, DIY injuries, late nights, early mornings and we're nearly finished now... Coupled with the internals, we have had the front of the house changed, new driveway, fences, as well as rear decking - and I though cars could absorb money.... Upshot is, if anyone's still reading, is that i'll be back on the car soon, getting some more part from TPS the weekend so I've no excuse now to get stuck into it. Just need to Epoxy resin coat the garage floor first.... Thanks for reading! Matt
  2. 2 points
    For anyone worried about the Energy Blue on a Kodiaq, dont be. I was worried as I have yet to see another in this colour on the road and Im glad to say I am extremely happy with it. Saved £500 on paint! I do think the chrome window frames help. 4 days in with the 1.5 DSG and its absolutely fine for the purpose we got it for. The amount of space is incredible
  3. I'd say your weight is similar to mine and @newbie69's, considering the extra weight of my "bells and whistles" model...
  4. Thought I should update the post in case others suffer the same issue. I got back to skoda saying I wasn't happy with their offer of 10% and they said they'd see if they could do any better. After almost 4 weeks of weekly updates from them saying they were having discussions between themselves they finally got back to me and RESULT - they're covering 100% of the costs! THANK YOU WINO for your help. Also this result has partially restored my faith in Skoda. It finally went to the dealership yesterday, they said it could take 4 days. I'll update the post again if there is more to add, but hopefully this is the end of it! Thanks again WINO, you saved me £1400 there.
  5. Well mine was 1,660kg with a boot full of work gear, full fuel tank and spare/tool kit onboard. Think I could get it down to 1,600kg for a track day or Santa Pod just by emptying the boot and having a quarter of a tank (approx 16 litres of fuel). At least 25kg less than your Bells and Whistles model (top spec adds weight).
  6. 4WD

    2 points
    on mine, it's written on the gear lever and on the ass of the car
  7. Not disputing the sound noises, just the elapsed time from the original post. Reminds me of a meeting we had at work on long outstanding software change requests. We were able to knock two off the list because both requestors had died in the meantime.
  8. 4WD

    2 points
    Mine has a 4 x 4 badge on the boot and there is no wheelspin from a swift launch.
  9. Just a quick update on what it was. There was no power going to the ECU and all the fuses in the ebox needed cleaning out and original fuses needed fitting as some cheap one in there were giving a bad connection, The bloke said the other suspension was fitted incorrectly but I already have new ones to go in friday But he said the steering warning light is on and the warning light is the torque sensor steering rack warning code, No idea what that does, can anyone tell me please? and is it a sensor that needs changing?
  10. This is a motor from it. It's just a direct drive through a worm gear it seems: And here is a complete rack. So you can see the motor is just mounted to it and there's no hydraulics at all:
  11. 1 point
    No, definitely not. Stayed for couple of weeks in Birmingham last year. Plain as grannys chest.
  12. 1 point
    It works only up to speed of 30 km/h and then switches to normal mode. No worries. Have tried hill descent on very steep slope, works just fine. Also worked fine, when got into swampy place with my trailer. Just like locking the differentials.
  13. That's great thanks, I think I've found it - there's a spare tab and behind it a thick wide bar/rail with a thick red wire coming off it. (Sorry for the crap tablet photo): Is that the one? Yes, there's no pin 10 power in the kit - it's wired for an optional extra kit but has no feed. Thanks again for the help.
  14. 1 point
    ^^^ Exactly, the clue is in the name of the button. Works as it should on rough terrain, up and down slopes etc calming everything down.
  15. Impressive economy Widescreen, bearing in view of the newness, the traffic conditions and it's an auto. For info, start of August we resumed our monthly London - Bristol 150mile trips in our 1.0 TSI SE Technology DSG with GPF, following 5 months lockdown. I decided (after recent comments here) not to use the Adaptive Cruise Control this time, to allow me to speed up on downhills and gradually slow down uphill on the M25 & M4. Trip there indicated 53mpg, a record for me - previously best this direction was around 48mpg, but the return, driving in the normal direction of prevailing winds, where I've got around 53mpg recently, I was hoping for better than 55mpg, but actually slightly disappointed to get a mere indicated 50mpg. Don't know why, maybe the wind had changed direction for a few days. The return trip traffic was quieter than the busier going there, so maybe less of the being dragged along by other vehicles draughts. The going & return averages at 51.5mpg which earlier calcs have found to be 4% optimistic, so really 49.5mpg brim to brim. Car as always fairly loaded, but not absolutely packed out, travelling generally at 70mph but as described before, there is the long 50mph M4 section between Reading and the M25 that always benefits economy. Car one year old, just (oil) serviced and has done 6,000miles. As usual engine barely audible throughout the journey.
  16. Did a long haul from Highlands to just south of London on Saturday. Used the 390 miles stretch from Lesmahagow to the destination to get a handle on max mpg. Cruising mostly at 60mph on CC, with some roadworks and the usual 15 minutes of stop/start traffic on the M25, though my stop/start stayed switched off. Mpg was 58.4 from brim to brim. 2.0TDi 4x4 DSG. Overall mpg is 52.44 over 1,423 miles and mixed driving. Pretty happy with that. 👍
  17. Yes it seems that way. Difference mostly coming from panoramic roof (and lack of spare wheel on mine). Me and you are also on lighter wheels which save almost 20kg off. Out of curiosity, remember to weigh one RS6 wheel vs a Vega one when you swap them, or even just one RS6 rep alone. It's unusual for replicas to be particularly lightweight but you never know.
  18. Love the Polestar 2, I'd take that any day over the silly Model 3 which has the nerve to be called a "family car"... Better looking, bigger, and better quality overall On the horsepower aspect though, 400bhp might sound like being a lot but in reality when they have to move 2+ ton plus without gearing, they are not as impressive/effective as they might sound or as they would be in a similar size (but lighter) petrol/diesel car. Judging from the 0-100-200 figures, acceleration is comparable to a 300-320bhp IEC car (eg. Cupra estate) which is nice but nothing too impressive by today's performance standards. And the biggest appeal of the IEC car if you're a little bit into tuning is that it can improve its performance dramatically with a remap or even further mods, whereas the EV is fixed at its stock performance for its entire lifetime but that applies to all EV not just the Polestar of-course. Out of curiosity, how is the charger network in the UK? Another deal breaker for me (apart from the fact only a dual motor Model S would feel quick ) is that you just can't have long trips unless the route happens to involve fast chargers. Personally I don't think I'd mind the lack of noisy engines, exhausts, smells and all that sentimental stuff, I've seriously considered going EV as my next car but every time I am changing my mind eventually simply due to lack of infrastructure and still a really high price of the actually fast EV's out there. Maybe in 3-5 years?
  19. Out with the old in with the new. Had a mk1 vRS for 9 years from 120k to 206k and she been a brilliant car. Previous owner modified with 226 horses courtesy of jabbasport and Koni adjustable dampers. Always said we'd go beyond 200k miles and she did nee bother. Towbar for pulling my track slag to the track. What can we replace it with was the question. Wanted something smaller but nowt fit the bill until an irresistible deal on a mk2 limited edition. Remapped the day after. LE means she got the EA888 motor so nice and tuneable. Plenty of area under the nice smooth curve. Bloody hell she don't half shift now, pulls like a train. Wolf in sheep's clothing or what?
  20. 1 point
    Do you have a link to the type you are talking about? The previous car used to eat those window blinds😂
  21. The tailgate is the same except for the number plate recess,
  22. Back on the mpg topic, I made my first long journey in the karoq 1.5 SEL tsi dsg from the West Midlands to Glasgow then to Prestwick and back to Glasgow 336 miles brim to brim 46.7mpg. The M6 part of the journey was horrific, losing 90 minutes in standing, and stop/start traffic due to accidents so thanks Skoda for the stop/start and auto hold. Because of this, its difficult to say if it was a true test of mpg. On the return from Glasgow, exactly 300 miles and the M6 shut between J22 and J23 both ways I had to divert onto the M61 then crawl around the Manchester ring road, more stop/start but on completion the trip is showing 49.7mpg so probably a brim to brim would be around 46/47 mpg again. The car has not yet done 3000 miles but overall I'm reasonably happy with the fuel economy. I did find it difficult to hold the car at a steady speed 70mpg. It would quickly vary + or -- 5mph not sure why but with 70mph being about 2000rpm I noted on the motorway, the car was happier at 2100 / 2150 rpm rather than below 2000 rpm. In September I am making the run to Glasgow in a BMW X1 S20i dsg and it will be interesting to see how economy compares. I was not keen on the Karoqs "eco" mode. As soon as it switched in the car would slow too quickly, not coasting far. The BMW disconnects the gearbox from the engine and can coast quite some distance. We shall see what happens.
  23. Thanks for the tips and guidance guys. That DSD video is very useful, especially for a newbie to it. Why does technical stuff sound so much more convincing in a Yorkshire accent!?
  24. 4WD

    1 point
    Look underneath from behind and if you don’t see a diff and rear drive shafts it’s 2wd.
  25. Took you over 2 years to come up with that unoriginal comment?
  26. Thanks, Yeah I have a DSG but after googling and researching quickly talking myself in to the full package! Thanks... I'm heading there now!
  27. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to check the old rack, so I guess I’ll never know! If you have both time and skill to dismantle your current rack and check each component then go for it, else just wait till you find one with reasonable price. Best regards..
  28. Ended up filling the car earlier than I had planned to check how much it weighed. With nothing removed including about 30kg of work stuff and near enough a full tank of fuel (probably 64 litres onboard) @Roscio it came to a wet total of 1,660kg and with me 1,740kg and cost me nothing thanks to my mate Dave for fitting me in between 2 lorries. Could have got it down to 1,630kg easily by removing items which you wouldn't want/need for a trip to say Santa Pod. With a quarter of a tank the weight would probably close to 1,600kg for ultimate performance. Having filled the car at an expensive Shell garage in the end a quick update on the last tank which surprised me for all the right reasons. Sorry to keep upsetting @ColinD with these figures but 535 miles driven using 60.82 litres at 39.99mpg. Overall after 7,306 miles at a cost of £1,058 exactly using 841.11 litres of 99 octane fuel for an overall average of 39.49mpg reflected by the Long Term which dropped slightly to exactly 40mpg.
  29. Finally spoke to someone at my dealership who knows what's going on (not the salesman!) - and it turns out my car is arriving with them TODAY! So - I've told them to keep it for another couple of weeks and I'll have it on the 1st with the new Reg! 😀
  30. 1 point
    No need for a k & n, The old cave engines do that on Their own 😃
  31. True, but IF (which I very much doubt) you don't have airbags in your A pillar then you almost certainly have the only Octavia III in the world without them as they were a standard fitment and are one of the reasons for the 4 star NCAP rating.
  32. My manual says the marking is on the B pillar but the diagram shows the airbag it refers to stretching up the A pillar, along the roof line above the B pillar, then down the C pillar a bit.
  33. Took the car into my local dealer this morning for its second service. When I booked it in last week, the service receptionist said they had recently had notification of a recall for faulty injectors on a range of VW Group cars with the 1.0 TSI engine. Cars built between 2018 and 2020 are affected. Apparently there is a risk of the injectors leaking fuel into the cylinders affecting emissions. The reference number is 24FQ. This link provides more details. https://car-recalls.eu/vw-skoda-seat-1-0-tsi-recall-injectors/
  34. Hi there. Short answer is that the Superb sub is better in generating bass than the Octavia and delivers a superior overall sound field compared to the Octavia. The Superb sub sounds reasonable, but doesn't have anything like the same punch as a decent after-market active sub. But you'll find the Superb delivers overall good sound with Canton, just don't expect to be blown away.
  35. Certainly no issues with the presence of the sub being felt despite being in the boot. It channels the punchiness through the chasis. Very effective. Plus I reckon with the hatch design, it can utilise the enclosed boot volume for added depth.
  36. About that much On H&R .. lol. Front does drop a good 25mm maybe 30 on H&R rear is 25mm.
  37. 1 point
    Looks like you’re working backwards from a possible answer. Working forwards - how would you spec up your preferred car? The fundamental differences between SE - SEL - Edition trim before adding extras is the starting point. Each trim level has it’s fanboys. For some the trim level is a basic Go/NoGo decision.
  38. Can't help you on the insurance front, but here's the gospel from Colin who setup Briskoda in the first place. The site name is fairly unique and easily misinterpreted, it's pronounced "bris-skoda", a brisk skoda, a Skoda driven in a spirited or "brisk" manner. It's not the British or bri-skoda, although we fully appreciate why that happens
  39. 1 point
    Would appear to be normal, in my Driver's manual this is covered on page 199. It may run for up to 10 minutes.
  40. The keyless entry and start system is certainly throwing out some varied problems. I myself still have a minor issue which is difficult to pin down to the fobs. When locking the car, as i do by hand rather than the fob, there i a delay that prevents me from opening the door if i have left something in the car for example. Also having got into the driving seat having opened the door by hand and pressed the start button the car won't start unless i press the unlock button on the fob. So hard to explain as a faulty fob. I think it important we all continue to share our experiences here wether good or bad. Regards: Steve....
  41. I highly doubt it has to do with the L&K. I have the same equipment as Roscio on my car (because every possible extra minus sun-roof and spare wheel was added), I even got stuff like electric tow bar and the Webasto auxiliary heater ( @Roscio do you have those? ) that contribute to weight and my Sportline still showed 1620kg with 1/4 of fuel and a 7-8kg child seat in, precision was +/- 10kg I think. It's probably just the sun-roof, spare wheel and all that fuel that make this 65kg difference. They make for quite some extra weight though.
  42. Probably just water condensation that builds up when you park and switch off. If you get someone to start your engine and watch the exhaust tail pipes you will be surprised how much water trickles out from a cold start.
  43. 1 point
    Big thumbs up for @nidza because the 4x4 system is not infalable. When it is snowy or very wet/greasy, the haldex system will only kick-in under very specific circumstances [which they don't tell you in any blurb]. In most cases, the stablation control system will try and remove power from the drive wheels first and generally the haldex system will only kick-in if it looses traction on power delivery. The Haldex system should generally be looked at as a 2 wheel drive - with 4 wheel traction if needed [especially the Haldex 5 system]. Haldex 3 and 4 - tend to have 30% and 10% permanent drive. Interesting reference:
  44. 1 point
    If you haven't already, check out golfmk7.com, you'll surely find your answer there. I'd recommend going to a solid rear sway bar, 24mm or so. If you find it's not enough you can upgrade the front one but bear in mind it is a dog of a job and can cause issues with the balance of the car (understeer and so on.) You shouldnt notice too much difference in ride quality, maybe just a tad more side to side movement over uneven roads.
  45. I had this issue with my VRS when I went to CZ last year and it was 38C driving around Prague. The car will start injecting additional fuel into the mixture due to evaporation; you will also find that stop/start maybe disabled during this period too. Its perfectly normal - the car is doing what is meant to do.
  46. If you want to do some handling mods try a rear sway bar, front strut brace, front offset poly bushes. These can all be done pretty cheaply. You could also go lowering springs but that's mostly for looks. Oh and decent tyres go without saying... If your budget is tight try Falken Fk510s, if not Michelin PS4S are the bomb
  47. Indeed. I’ve had bigger petrol engines (2.0T, 2.5T) that you can drive like a diesel. Smaller though and you can’t really do it.
  48. Not necessarily something 'I would change' but more of a grumble - the right hand drive conversion on the Mk3 seems to have been a bit more awkward than the on the MkI and Mk II. So we now have a fuse box that's requires removal of the glove box rather than simply removing a dashboard end panel by the steering wheel. This is a right faff solely due to the soft close glove box door hinge which is a menace to get in and out without breaking. There's also the issue of the center console where the cup holder is now on the drivers side, rather than the passenger in the old car - which means when i want to remain hydrated and change gear I have to un-naturally hook my arm over my bottle of fizzy pop! First world problem, i know! 😆

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