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Thought I’d add one to the sunset pics.

This was just a comparison between what the car via the trip computer is telling me the mpg was vs what the actual mpg was based upon measured fuel burned. It was to see the accuracy of the onboard calcs in response to a comment from someone else. As you infer, the mpg will vary depending upon a myriad of circumstances and conditions, but that was not the intent for this exercise.

Lol, When I get in my car I go through a routine; Sync on, Lane Assist off, custom drive mode, Sport suspension ON, Sport steering ON etc.. I'm driving a car for Pete's sake!... Not pre-flighting a 747.... I should probably make up some Skoda branded laminated checklists and get the missus to read them out to me each time we go out. Phil

Managed to swap the numbers :( Fixed now. Ta for the heads-up.

Post no longer required.

Odometer data needn't/shouldn't be tweaked in the same way as the speedo display though, so probably reflects reality better (someone clever on this forum pointed this out, I forget who, sadly). Thus the calculation of mpg oughtn't to suffer the same bias. Google map distance data for a given exact journey can probably confirm or deny this aspect, for a car on standard wheels/tyres.

The idea of having checklists is hilarious! I now want you to make them and let us all have them!

550 miles travelled....45.4 litres of fuel to fill up. 55 mpg vs. the car claiming 56.4. mpg.

One rear reversing light and one rear fog light standard fitting for most models these days, But on my old MK2 Fabia Estate 09 I fitted a light cluster on the passenger side from a left hand drive model Fabia which has the holes and fittings like the right hand drive model, a few extra wires run from the other unit for reversing and fog later and we had a 2 reversing lights and 2 fog lights, not that concerned about the fog lights so much but reversing lights were a lot better at night when reversing where we were, light unit was purchased from Skodaparts.com and specified a left hand drive rear cluster

Hi. I'm not able to help with your immediate problem but seeing it is a 2011 car and we are now in 2021 it must be close to its 10 year anniversary, an age where warranties on lots of things, not just cars, can get "interesting". Clearly the warranty company isn't keen to spend out £3,000 on a car that's probably not worth a lot more than that. If you haven't already done so I would get a letter off to the warranty company documenting the problem and what you are expecting of them, whether that is a repair of the existing box (pointing out your mechanic says it is not possible) or fitting a refurbished or even second hand unit. I would also include a specific timeframe that you want this resolved in pointing out the problems not having the car on the road is causing you. Send it by registered letter requiring a signature and keep a copy of the letter and print off the delivery receipt to keep with it. (my practice is never to rely on being able to get it later "if I need it"). This way if the car passes its 10 year anniversary or the warranty expires you have it clearly documented when the problem was identified and you won't be relying on any emails or notes from phone calls and that should help you if you have to start a formal dispute. Sorry about your problem, it's probably taken the shine off what have been for many people a very good and reliable car.

The seals can be replaced in situ. I wish I could recall @sepulchrave's definition of a mechanic that he recently wrote. I found it! I hope he does not mind me reproducing it. Garages are mongs, they just change whatever the reader says is wrong, they play parts bingo with your money, next it would be the throttle body, then the pedal assembly, then the ECU. I know how their primitive reptile brains work, they don't do the job to fix your car, they do it to get paid, fixing your car is incidental.

Hello - We have a lovely Skoda Yeti Urban (2012) with 59,000 miles on the clock but I'm thinking about selling our Yeti and purchasing either a 2017 Yeti SE Drive (with its generous spec) or a newer Karoq model - probably the SE Technology or Sat Nav Plus. I was initially not keen on the new Karoq and Kodiaq (or any of the models across the VWG) as they seemed so much bigger. However, we do a lot of cycling and camping so the larger space is handy. Has anyone on this forum made the move from a Yeti to a Karoq and have you been happy with your choice?

Hey all In an attempt to make this section a bit more lively again, I thought I'd start off a cleaning and detailing thread. Feel free to add pics of your shiny motors, describe your process, outline future work you intend to do, recommend products, etc. I'll kick off! I have owned this beast for 2 weeks now and gave it a deep clean to assess the paintwork. Process (& products); Jet wash to loosen dirt up Snow foam (AD purple velvet) 2 bucket method wash (Sonax gloss - first time using this and I was super impressed @ £6 a litre) Alloy clean (Gtechniq W6 Iron & General Fallout Remover then a general wash with the remaining Sonax shampoo) Clay bar (Bilthamber medium with Dodo Juice born slippy lube). I've never seen as much embedded tar/crap in a car's paintwork before! 2 bucket method wash - again! (Sonax gloss) Dry (my trusty 10 year old woolly mammoth towel. Still going strong) Polish glass (AutoGlym) Protective glass coat (RainX) Tyre dressing (Some cheap CarPlan rubbish. I'll look at getting a decent one soon). I decided not to wax it as there's a bunch of paint defects I want to polish out first. I'm about to order by first DA machine (das6 pro) to give it a go. Next time out; Touch in stone chips Polish out numerous swirls and fine scratches Sort out the dull D-pillar plastics Tidy up the interior, which TBF is in good shape already. Right, that'll do for the first post. My neighbours now think I'm quite peculiar and, having written it out, I can't disagree! I look forward to seeing your cleaned/detailed motors! Danny

The Skoda annual results show table of sales Octavia 257,400 (25.6%) Karoq 137,200 (13.7%) Kodiaq 131,600 (13.1%) Kamiq 128,500 (12.8%) Fabia 105,500 (10.5%) Superb 86,200 (8.6%) Rapid 79,600 (7.9%) Scala 63,200 (6.3%) Citigo 15,000 (1.5%) Enyaq iv 600 (0.06%) https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/skoda-auto-looks-back-on-a-successful-2020-despite-the-coronavirus-pandemic/

I managed to get random, small amounts of polish on some of the black trim, (I normally mask with detailing tape) when I polished the Karoq recently. Bought some Meguirs trim cleaner to keep it looking as new, but still left the unsightly white marks - the answer! - a pencil eraser/ rubber! Rub the erasure on the affected area, wipe off with a clean cloth and hey presto!

Not sure what they’re doing with it though? It’s down as colour “1313” and although it’s a metallic colour, it doesn’t come through as an extra cost when you select it. Bargain!! 🤣🤣🤣

Another 👍🏻👍🏻 For the Whiteline RARB, I’ve had it on mine for the last 5years. The powder coat finish works well with no rust etc. Transformed the turn in, the positive feel of the front end and the way the car handles. Just much better balanced and you can finally really drive it through corners without the understeer of before. I’ve also got the Cupra front bushes combined with poly bushes elsewhere and it handles on rails in comparison to before the ‘mods’ - one of those ‘how it should have left the factory’ cases. The only minor negative is you’ll notice is if you take a speed bump at an angle - the rear is mighty stiff now! Oh, and as Vindaloo suggests above, watch out for the inherent lift off oversteer!! Enjoy!

Looking forward it. Still got a slight wait for mine. 6 month lead at the minute!

Do nothing at crail.

I've seen it done on a Russian website, they used some after market LED bulbs that were bright white and bright red. Not sure the exact wiring situation but seen the pictures of it. https://www.drive2.ru/l/532504477521937262/

Mine has about £4500 in options as well so it was a £39,991 car when ordered so even then and with 6500 miles they are a decent price as a nearly new at the moment. You’ll not pay much less for a much older one at the moment. There are plenty of 17 plate ones up for £17-18k still 😬

It may be possible to simply cut the split section off then heat the pipe and push it back on to the barb for a permanent fix, I did this on my old 1.4 and it's still OK.

Blimey with all those extra toys, even if I waited nine months, I don't think a face lift L&K or even a sport line plus will have dropped to a price I can afford. Having said that, when was the face-lift introduced?

The DQ200 would destroy itself as soon as I put it into gear with the amount of torque I have. 4.5k might sound silly but it’s realistic. Exactly traction is the issue even with a diff. A45’s have struggled with it in the past

For some of these vehicles it sounds like the checklist is going to be very long, you might want to buy one of those pilots briefcases to carry it in

When scrolling through Adaptations in VCDS it doesn’t have sub menus, so you’ll need the next set of instructions for the menus you are after, all of which are there, anything related to Fernlichtassistant which is HBA in German. For Skoda Surround you need to enable text mode or experimental coding or you can change that coding string via copy paste but change Byte 11 from 01 to 04.

Yeah, that looks pretty much the same as gaffer tape.

Gaffer tape is a better choice for a temporary repair/test, as the fibres stop it stretching so easily, that's why I suggested it for the OP's experiment.

Reminded me of my brother's old Ford Escort, when he locked the door by pushing down the internal pin and shutting the door, prior to realising he left his key in the ignition. He was at a pub restaurant at the time and spotted another Escort so found the driver to ask him to unlock it with his key. Worked easily! Does sound like the barrel may be worn, though. Most modern cars won't suffer this so much as remotes tend to get used but older cars did. You may need to source a new barrel and if done from a main dealer, you can possibly get a proper matched one. This will benefit from giving you a spare key, despite being a little more expensive.

Couldn't possibly comment , but if I was, that information could be useful......

Nice! Please update us once you have everything on the car.

Reach down back of engine and push down on plunger on turbo actuator, if it moves in smooth and then comes back out again it's not sticking vanes. If it's stiff or can't even move it with thumb squeaks grinds etc It's time to clean it out. Vacuum lines are worth a good look at too, especially one from N75. Fault code will likely be the common P1557 overboost one if when restarting engine its back to normal again for a while. Will likely start happening more and more frequently. If EGR is looking damp it's likely going to be adding to any issues rather than being the cause of the limp mode itself at this stage and would need to be addressed one way or the other. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1.9+tdi+mr+muscle

This outburst is not addressed at you but at the car manufacturers and the modern customers who covet their offerings. Its a bloody car for dogs sake, a means of transport and not a teenagers game console!

Taste...or lack of it.....

I was wrong about this, as I've just discovered while looking for something else in the MOT manual. Apparently, being worn down to the wear indicator, or below 1.5mm thickness is a fail. I presume that thickness doesn't include the backing plate?(!) 1. Brakes - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) section 1.1.13.

It depends, if your valves actually need some adjustment at 15000km intervals. Skoda service plan shows that valve clearance was checked at annual checks and every 30000km.

Ours has one.

... why the wind deflectors I ordered in November are still sitting indoors waiting for the warmer weather before I fit them

decent kip was had 😁

Bump, my mk1 has similar problems on occasion. I think its due in part to the lock on the drivers door being worn. Put another way, I can unlock my mk1 with my mk2's key, or a house key, or anything that sortof looks like a key. I could probably open it with a library card if I tried.

Hopefully this will help: Any feedback or if you see any obvious mistakes, just let me know

She does have an NVQ though and Dishonest John speaks very highly of her!

https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/lose-with-dignity-celebrate-with-grace-part-i/

Winter condition... nice drive !!!

A nice clean yesterday. Nothing wildly different from my initial post, but I didn't need to use fallout remover and I also paid quite a lot of attention to the glass. I just wanted to highlight this new gadget I picked up; Forensic Detailing - Halfords Window Cleaner Absolutely awesome! Made it a much easier and more pleasant task. I, like John in the vid, always found the internal side of a windscreen to be a nightmare to do, so this was a welcome addition to my detailing kit! It was really useful for the inside of the sunroof, as well as all of the exterior glass.

So @J.R. was spot on with his prediction...