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The 220 uses the 312mm front discs so 16’s fit fine. Even if you did have the 340’s from the 272/280 you could re jig so the 16 inch spare went on a rear corner.

What have we started? Eventually it will be noticed that this has nothing to do with Skodas - I'm just waiting agog (or possibly goosegog) with anticipation to see what fabulous topic the moderators will move this stuff to!

Your newer model is absolutely not the same animal and cannot be abused in the same way, if you do not interrupt the regens the fan will never come on when you stop, if you carry on as you are it will continue to do so every time and eventually will go into limp mode and you will have to pay the Skoda dealer to carry out a forced workshop regeneration. There is little point in telling you that your vehicle is not suited to your journey profile as its too late, you can however adapt and make the most of an imperfect situation by allowing any regens to complete, I like many others have had to do this during lockdown.

Hi, so this is an information post. My radiator fans were not spinning when I switch the air conditioning on (2010 superb 2.0 tdi dsg with climatronic) the car is not overheating either. The air conditioning worked great, nice and cold when driving. I had the a/c refrigerant level and pressure checked and were fine. I replaced the radiator as it was faulty, but the new radiator was still not spinning. I have also checked the fuses in the cabin and in the engine compartment e-box (blade fuses and strip fuses) and they all seem good. So I replaced the a/c pressure switch situated at he front of the a engine bay on the left (circled). You will need a 17mm crow foot spanner (pictured) attached to a long extention to get the old pressure switch off and the a/c system won't need degassed as it's on a schrader valve. Fans spin now and a/c works perfectly👍👍👍 VID_20210726_175436.mp4

Hi ive notices some fluid on bottom right of bumper lowers not much but not normal Have marked coolant reservoir and that's not dropped , oil level good , brake reservoir good Only leaves steering fluid Where is the steering pump and cap etc located ? Is this a common issue with citigos only done 8k miles Thanks Steve

Haha! I still have my fabia. . .and one of the door shuts is still sticker bombed 😁 Around the reg and the filler cap came off along time ago though. My car between the fabia and octy didn't succumb to any sticker bombing so I think the octy will be OK 😉

Interesting that the two cars with the longest ownership since new are both 1.6 FSI Elegance!

Nice video but I can’t help but wonder how long it will be before you sticker bomb this car too! <<<< P.S. You haven’t updated your profile.

Find an independent that can look at it sooner. All the light tells us is that a fault has been logged in the engine management, not what it is.

Do you have a dashcam or similar plugged in that would drain the battery. Do you use the car regularly, with a decent run to give the battery a chance to charge. If you are not using the car regularly it may be wise to invest in a charger to keep the battery topped up.

I've just fitted bilstein B4's on mine along with the eibach (I think) springs which were already on it. Original shocks on mine were absolutely goosed so the drive is much more pleasant.

An update, my first order of a new antenna never arrived but after ordering a second and fitting it, the gps now works, so it looks like the gps antenna was broken.

Off for the week to try and break the back of the garden project.... Waiting on a bulk bag of Cotswold chippings and the OH went out at 11.30 and not due back until 7.45 ish and the cassette conveniently arrived at 11.45, soooooo.... New stuff on the Whyte, older and some new on the Felt 😏 I'm not too sure on the jump to the 46 on the Shimano, Sun Race is a steady even rise but we'll give it a go and see. Needs a bit of attention to fine tune it but need to have a quick ride to bed it in first. Felt doesn't seem too bad, again a short spin out needed to see where that is on shifting

Coding Octavia NX gets complicated because of SFD protection for the majority of the modules built in the MBQ Evo platform cars. But The specific module responsible for Lane Assist (A5) is not protected and yes you can disable lane assist completely or like me configured it to remember the last setting. Which mean if you disabled it it will stay disabled. You have couple of options: Pay somebody that have the required cables and software Buy obdeleven https://obdeleven.com , but be aware that currently obd eleven doesn't have SFD integration and only options you can change are lane assist and climate options Buy VCDS https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/ with cable, the same as above, currently there is no SFD integration (beta version is providing offline token support) and you can only change limited number of options including Lane Assist Buy obdapp https://obdappshop.de/, it is fully integrated with SFD and you can enable a lot of predefined features if you buy a flat-rate option. Use VCtool https://vctool.app/ with cheap ELM327 OBD adapter, It has SFD support (very expensive now, each token is 35€) but SFD is not needed here and If I see correctly this setting cost 0 CRD, so it is free for single activation. Available presets: https://vctool.app/available-presets/?model=Skoda Octavia A8&culture=en-US You need to: driver assistance (module A5) > long coding > Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 > change to "last setting" Don't forget to open the hood.

Mounted 205/65r16 on the steel disk Use board search for 'full diameter spare wheel'

The pleasure and pain of brilliant silver; doesn't show the dirt, but doesn't look much different after two hours of washing it!

Click on the ellipsis "..." top right of a post, and you will get an option to edit your post, for 1 hour after you made it.

You are interrupting the regens, if you hear the fan is on then continue driving until the regen is completed, otherwise you risk the extra fuel injected post combustion from running down the bores and diluting the engine oil. You can tell while you are driving that a regen is in progress by a change in engine note but the most obviosu indication is that the idle speed will be raised to 950rpm & if you open the window you will hear the fan running. When I say continue driving I mean at above 1600rpm not dawdling along, a fast dual carriageway or motorway run, 5km max will do it under those conditions.

thats a point i could lend him my spare mine is just a steelie will that be okay then just fit it on then crack the nut whilst on all fours yes ???

right, just to close the loop on this and share the love, as they say. the issue with mine was narrowed down to a faulty Gateway Control Unit, located just behind the dash on the drivers side (RHD). cost is £350 at the dealers (all in) and since then it's been great, no issues.

Ordered some replacement rear mud flaps for my Octavia, based on the part number you guys have been telling me. Got them from Kopacek and they arrived in 2 weeks. Stuck them on today and they are a perfect fit.

Check your wheels are not getting hot after a run. A sticking brake calliper will cause poor MPG, but not show in any fault scan.

A lot depends on the model of vehicle, age, spec etc. But all VAG FM radios use diversity switching, one antenna usually on the roof and another in usually the rear screen. If the vehicle has a roof FM antenna then DAB can also be built into that antenna (or in the rear screen sometimes). Some vehicles with panoramic sunroofs don't get a roof antenna at all. Short answer, anything goes I guess.

I wish these were commercially available :-) The original cup holder in the Karoq (of that design) - is a joke! Just make that key holder a bit bigger so that it can take things other than the key and it would be my nirvana :-)

I agree with OP - Simply Cr*p design. Who needs the key holder in that and the 12v plastic bung holder? They could have got rid of those and made the two cup holders bigger and more useful. Key holder - really!! I have my key on a keyring with house keys - am I really going to leve them in that slot to get forgotten or in my pocket where they belong? For me its always the pocket. Do I really want that bunch sitting there and jangling for the entire trip? No thanks. 3" deeper too and you could even get a normal bottle of water (500ml) in there and still have the armrest in-place. The designers must have been either on a severe budget or never used a cup/bottle that the rest of use get from a take-away lunch outlet in their entire lives. While on the subject - the glove box in the karoq, should you decide to make use of the cooling feature, has room for only one very stubby bottle/container and very slim design water or drink and just about nothing else at the same time. You can just about squeeze two in there if you want to put them under pressure and risk them leaking all over the place. Another really well designed feature - Not!

I have the opposite experience, I find that the built in Nav is generally very good at identifying closed roads and snarl ups. However as one poster already said, I tend to use my own route, then use the system to get to the end bit which I may not know. The only issue I have had is when towing the caravan, the system identifies any A road as an A road, whether its a dual carriageway or a back road in the country, and will try to send me down a badly maintained road as its 0.1 of a mile shorter. But then I have had this problem with google and Waze too. As my old MT Sgt used to say, always do a route plan, a sat-nav is a useful tool, but it wont replace a brain!

Orders for EVS on lease have now overtaken ICE cars showing that the UK, if not the world, is changing quicker than some thought and it is the economics of it not just a fad. Orders for electric vehicles overtake ICE cars https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/news/latest-fleet-news/electric-fleet-news/2021/07/19/orders-for-electric-vehicles-overtake-ice-cars Orders for diesel and petrol cars at Zenith in June were surpassed by those for battery electric vehicles (BEVs) for the first time. The top 10 FN50 leasing and fleet management company says that pure electric vehicles (EVs) accounted for more than half (54%) of orders in June, compared to almost a third (32%) in the same month last year. Over the past 12 months, Zenith reports that 41% of orders were for BEVs. Demand for electric vans also increased in June to account for 69% of van orders compared to 1% in June 2020. Over the past 12 months, demand for fully electric vans has built to account for almost one in three van orders.

Sole rapid charger locations, it's time they become extinct. The eGolf owner shouldn't be expecting a full charge from a rapid anyway. They are either uninformed or just selfish. EV charging slows down near the top end. Luckily you got there when it finished charging, otherwise you might be there waiting over 1 hour from start to finish, waiting for the car to trickle charge the last few percent. Looks like there's 7kW posts nearby, if they are not going to be around when the car gets enough charge, they should never be using the rapids, should be using the 7kW posts.

Intensive cleaning of the intrior this afternon. It has been way too long I didn't do ti. Sprayed the front and back seats with Leather conditioner & cleaner from Chemical Guys. Satisfied with the result, the seats are now correctly moisturized, with a satin looking and a pleasant soft touch. Also tried these 3D Shadow bulbs on the front doors. A gift from a friend owning a Sportline. He thought a needed 4 bulbs for his Sportline, when he discovered, there were no lights on the rear doors.. May be a bit "too much" for my taste. But I would appreciate the same without the Skoda Logo...

he should also get a vcds and check for a low refrigerant code if its not working before he does anything else

I'm not too sure about the Skoda Portal but invariably @MartiniB manages to find the latest files before they're 'officially available' so why not follow his posts in that section? FYI the maps are usually updated every 6 months.

6th Service done yesterday at 55000 miles. Oil and filter changed and replaced the cabin filter this time. Bought 20 Litres of oil this time as I have three cars to do that can all use the same oil. Both filters and 20 litres of oil £105.50. Brakes are half worn front and rear and are still the original ones. Will need a pair of tyres before the winter though. Front's only lasting for about 27000 miles. Battery test showed the battery as good as new. Nothing else needed doing. It had it's 3rd MOT last month and again a pass with no advisories. Both service and inspection warning messages reset. Updated the electronic service record again. Fuel consumption for the last two tanks before the service ( brim to brim calculations ) were 59 and 62 MPG in a petrol. Still going well and still like the car. Thanks AG Falco

Another piece of original police equipment sourced and fitted. It's the steering column mounted PTT (push to talk) button, made by a company called Sepura. Its used in conjuction with a mic and when pushed it allows the driver to speak on the cars police radio. (the mic should also mount on the shroud where the small white square is in the picture) The original mounting holes were still in the steering column shroud and lined up perfectly with my replacement

Short journeys and the 2.0 TDI don't mix. Take it on a long fast journey, put in a tank of super diesel and let the car clear itself out.

Another commonly missed point is the latest brochures have a servicing section towards the end and it quite clearly says (although print is small) that variable servicing can be from 9000 miles. So those that tell you variable will be 18000-20000 miles are misleading you by quoting the upper limit, not whole range. It really depends on how the car is used. Note the last statement on when variable should be selected (does anyone do 25 mile trips then drive like their granny, which means very few qualify for variable servicing) Quote Service intervals When you order your SUPERB, you can choose whether your car is on a fixed or a flexible service regime. Your ŠKODA retailer will help you decide which regime suits how your car will be driven, enabling your car to stay in the best possible shape. Fixed regime: service every 10,000 miles or one year (whichever comes first). This is recommended if the vehicle is likely to be used in the following way: > Driven fewer than 10,000 miles per annum. > Mainly short journeys, driven mostly in towns or cities. > High vehicle loading/towing and frequent hill climbs. > Heavy accelerating and braking, using high revs. Flexible regime: Sensors in the engine detect when a service is needed. A service light will show between 9,000 and 20,000 miles or up to 24 months (whichever comes first). The flexible service regime is recommended for vehicles with a daily mileage of more than 25 miles where the vehicle is driven regularly and mainly at a constant speed with minimum vehicle and engine loading, minimal towing and driven in an economical manner Unquote

Either they're going to have to spend a fortune on this (which after all the COVID-19 related borrowing to pay people to be furloughed, means borrowing will be massive) or it ain't going to happen. A cynical government might borrow it anyway and then fluff the next election and pass on a poisoned chalice to the next administration. Wouldn't be the first time it's been done. https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2010/may/17/liam-byrne-note-successor

He doesnt, but he has already made several "yield or crash" moves on Hamilton this year. If Max just gets on with driving the clearly fastest car of the year and not taking excess risks, he'll romp to the title. As it is, he cant afford another 30 point swing by needlessly colliding with the opposition when he could have backed out, like Hamilton did earlier in the lap when Max came up the inside like a missile.

Tinted windows, including the front ones due to the heat and sun that we have in Spain. My baby was roasting ... Maybe too dark from the outside. I hope you see the cars at night which is what I said at the store. Stek nex foil on the front (graphene) and smart 35 on the back. I insist that maybe I should have put the model 45. What do you think?

Many of us have moved on from Skoda's but still lurk. Welcome to the ex-Skoda lurkerhood Dave Gaz

http://www.gov.uk/government/news/further-action-needed-on-ev-charging-to-meet-net-zero

It is gone, All sorted. Money is in my account. Thanks mate

Not commenting on your choice of power supply, however: It might work by: 1) Convert your boot socket to switched output (easy, just needs a piggyback fuse) 2) Switched boot socket now charges the power bank thingo 3) Power bank thingo supplies power to the fridge 4) Fridge uses built in low voltage cutout to protect power bank thingo 4a) Power bank thingo has a BMS so it probably already has battery protection in it. Lithium cells hate being over discharged. That would probably mean you don't need the battery guard thingo. Problems I foresee: 1) does the power bank thingo need a button pressed or something like that to turn on its output? If so, you'll need to press that to start the fridge each time which would be annoying 2) Charging time 4.8 hours or more. - Power bank thingo does the disingenuous marketing thing of claiming watt-hours of capacity instead of amp hours. It says 720Wh. Assuming a 4S battery, average cell voltage of 3.2V = 12.8V. 720Wh / 12.8V = 56.2 Amp hours. Take off 20% (you shouldn't discharge LiFePo4 below 20%) and another 10% for losses (DC-DC, cabling, connections) leaves us with 39.3Ah (round to 40Ah). - Lets say your fridge has exhausted the power bank and it's turned off. We need to replace 40Ah of power. Charging losses are around 10-20% (it's a chemical process, not 100% efficient) so we actually need to put in 48Ah. - Spec sheet claims car charge input is 10A. That's also the limit of the cigarette lighter socket in the boot, although I've seen the wiring, it's flimsy so I'd expect a large voltage drop at 10A. We'll ignore that for now. - At 10A, putting that 48Ah back into the battery will take 4.8 hours. So the engine would need to be running 4.8 hours to charge the power bank thingo back up. - LiFePo4 charges to 80% quickly but then slows down, it's just the chemistry. So the 4.8 hours would actually be longer. How much longer depends on the BMS in the power bank thingo. 3) Runtime - Not sure of the size of the fridge, but they pretty much all use Danfoss BD35 or BD55 or copies of the same. Around 4 amps when cooling. Depending on ambient, lets say duty cycle of 50% (assuming box contents are already down to temp and we're just maintaining temp and it's not hot outside). That means 2Ah. Your 40Ah battery should in theory run that for 20 hours before shutting off, but in practice it will be less, maybe 15 hours due to things like voltage drops in cabling and connectors, voltage sags when then compressor starts (even with a soft starter) and things like that. Higher temp (e.g. car in sun), lack of ventilation, box contents not already cold will drastically reduce that time. If you're happy with the above constraints, then it should work. A true dual battery solution with an isolator would be better, although fitting it into the Skodiaq and running the heavy cables needed for a rapid charge would be a bit of stuffing around. Other random brain dumps: - Using a starter battery to run a fridge is not great. These battery constructions are designed to deliver a large load for a short time (start a car) and then idle the rest of the time. Even the modern Lead Acid Calcium ones are like this, although they're more tolerant of a deeper discharge. Your choice of a LiFePO4 for the fridge battery is much better, but the awkward implementation makes it difficult. - If you do progress to a true 2nd battery, make sure it taps off the starter battery negative on the car side of the hall effect sensor. Basically there is a current sensor near the negative battery post that measures current in and out of the battery. If you discharge the battery directly from the posts, the sensor doesn't see it. The car uses this sensor for start-stop maintenance and emission control etc and if the sensor doesn't see the current, the system can go way our of whack and need a recalibration. There is a ground point on the firewall, right next to the battery that is on the car side of the hall effect sensor, you can tap there. To answer your actual question if you choose to use the battery guard thingo so it's all plug and play: Make up a lead, two spade connectors to a ciggy lighter socket. That goes from the battery guard "load" connection if you choose to use it to the power pack thingo. Make up a lead, two spade connectors to a ciggy lighter plug. That goes from the socket in the boot of the car to the battery guard "battery" connection. Set the switch off voltage at something like 12.2 volts. That would mean the switch on voltage would be 13.0 volts. your car will run at 14.4 volts (peaking to 15 on regen) until the car feels its starter battery is charged and then turn down to about 12.8 so your battery guard will stay on at that point. If you stop the engine, or the start-stop does so the starter battery will quickly drop to about 11.8v and the battery guard will cut out.

As @fraz8888 mentioned - get 12v socket USB adaptor charger thing. I removed the 12v socket in mine and replaced it with a USB socket. Happy with it. the picture u shared is for markets that have the optional 240v power socket at that rear console. Those things come with additional USB ports (power only). the wiring loom for that is definitely not there, n the hardware is difficult to source and very expensive.

Hi Nigel, I've not drove other TDI Fabia's. I was tempted to think it may be the turbo and perhaps I'm not noticing it in other gears due to naturally being at higher speeds. I'm not trying to step on anyones toes and appreciate all the replies I've received, so I apologise if I've offended anyone. I've attached the noise underneath (this is in between change from 2nd to 3rd - a bit difficult to hear but a high pitched hum in the background.) car sound Ringtone.m4a

Been a busy day at Sasha Towers, had @CaptainPukein for Travel Assist pack retrofit (car had TSR only so I have added HBA, Lane Assist and Traffic Jam Assist) as well as my usual glut of extra coding and then rounded the day off by fitting my air intake blank plate and cut the blanked off section to open it up like an aftermarket system which should give you about an extra 9 cfm of airflow and it gave me something to do for 30 mins 😆 An extra piece of coding I have been made aware of by @langers2k, on my Superb with the 2Q0 Lane Assist camera you can change the ferocity of the Lane Assist and set a little vibration in the steering wheel to nudge you and if you like Lane Assist it’s a cool feature. I can now add this to any 3GD 980 654 A5 camera. This is demonstrated on @varaderoguy’s lovely Scout on which I fitted the 4G LTE antenna, rear USB loom and OEM LED floor lights. For those who like to code at home, the Lane Assist fun is A5 Long Coding Byte 13 change to Hex 56 A5 Adaptations Warning Intensity: Lane Departure Warning - Selection over Menu. This is for MY18 and 19 cars only. All working perfectly 🙂

I was going to leave this till tomorrow but I’m too excited! Phases 1 and 2 of the ambient lighting project are now complete, first job was colour palette upgrade from 10 to 30 colours and the second job was the colour changing floor lighting to match the screens, doors and dash strips. More is to come but for now I’m super duper happy 😃

First impressions: car feels pretty good, cornering is good, brakes are good, steering is numb as any electric one nowdays, engine feels powerful, dsg is ok, nothing more, once it finds right gear it goes, before that it does take some time. we did almost 200km today after getting the car, i managed to push just around 170km/h, felt like nothing, i wanted more but saw police in waze and here we can only drive 90km/h. interior seems fine for price, audio system is afterthought, they probably spent more time to create fake sound instead of making canton something more than stock sound system, that being said i do not think it is worth to get it, now, my favourite topic- all these aids: lane keep assist - it is annoying, we have pretty bad roads, so we do try to avoid some bad spots going around them and then car thinks i am falling asleep, and it starts to correct me, that is something i would like to keep off all the time for my own safety and my nerves. next, emergency braking, i did not got any input from car other than flashing warning when i stopped aggressively after another car, but that is how we drive, so if that thing does not brake it is ok, it can flash i dont care about that, ACC- that i liked, a lot, takes time to adjust myself and get used to controls but they are fine, and car seems to understand everything there, that is smart feature, seats- after volvo, i could not find comfy position after 200km, will try tomorrow again, memory function is a bit dumb tho- in order to get to my settings i have to hold my assigned number, pressing is not good enough. sound isolation, it is just ok, obviously not german quality but i will not travel 200km/h every day. start stop - seems that this feature can be on, does not bother me much, works fine. Tried to figure out PROFILES, since we will be 2 drivers, so tried to see if there is point to have them if they save seats/mirros, nothing worked yet, again will try tomorrow and see, since we had both keys in car gas tank size is joke, not a deal braker but comparing to old cars 68L this is meh. fake sound is - meh, i have it in normal mode as well. things that i really like, digital dash is amazing, even waze navigation shows up there, BTW- android auto wireless, works flawless. i had issues opening trunk with my feet, not sure why, i thing i have to learn that magic spot.. ========== Overall i am happy, especially considering price of the car. seems like a lot of things that are not so good, but i do understand that its 2021 and aids are there because people stopped thinking at some point so cars have to do that for us, and sound isolation etc, well i did pay just 30k, so that is ok. i would suggest this car for this price range for sure. its midnight and it has been a long day, just wanted to give my opinion, i hope this is understandable i have sold my DSLR so my phone photo skills are what they are

I don't bother anymore, there are so many speed camera sites around us it would beep every minute or so, there were three sites between home and my daughter's flat two miles away. Instead I set cruise to a couple of MPH below the old ACPO guidelines and relax . . . . . . not been caught since 2011. Sooner or later you will find a van/camera that isn't in the database or an unmarked car. Speeding regularly isn't worth the risk.

Very useful thread! I've just bought a late 66 plate Citigo and because of this thread I had a good grope up around the wheelarch where the filler cap is fitted and found mud and flakey bits. Number one job when car gets here is a damn good jetwashing, drying, derusting and undersealing with Dinitrol. Thank you!! Would never have thought to look for this problem until it was too late. Adding VW rear wheelarch liners does seem to be a good idea.

Here're some pictures with the old vents. You have to pry the tabs with a long thin flat crew driver. It's not always easy to squeeze the screwdriver in the tab. When it's in, you pry it open. The good news is that as you change whole vent, it's not a big deal if you over-bend / brake the tabs. Fitting back the new vent is just pushing them back in place