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I got info that you could preorder it from April on and normally order it from mid May on. Well, I think Kodiaq is top priority model (also due high margin) and even if there is issue with a chip shortage, it will have small impact on production (2-4 weeks delay). You can also see on webcam of airport where they are storing cars with some missing parts that Kodiaqs are in front row (first one to be picked, after missing parts are delivered/on stock). Webcam

Think there is some confusion going on here. As mentioned, the cheap plug and play as used in my guides supports dynamic lines

Mine does this too and its quite handy...theres a hill by me and it starts off coasting down it then will end up in 3rd and use the engine braking to stop the speed increasing.

Different strokes etc but I don't find looking down at the switch dangerous at all, as I never look down! This is my third car with auto-headlights and lights that automatically come on in the rain, and I now haven't switched my headlights on manually in four years. I doubt I ever will again either. I know the car is doing it for me, so there is nowt to check!!

I almost can’t believe what I’m reading. Had a quick look at steering rack cases on the motor ombudsman site, few interesting ones which talk about how long they should reasonably last etc. Might be worth contacting them if Skoda UK refuse to replace it under warranty. https://www.themotorombudsman.org/?sfid=11896&_sf_s=Steering rack

This is my Monte in Race Blue with Black roof. Moved on from Citigo Monte's.

Well done Spud Jr.. 👍

Shold be 2025. At least that's what's in my two keys, and that's what I replace them with. And welcome, by the way!

You need to talk to @SashaGrace Queen of all Mk3 mods & upgrades, does Rear cameras, heated seats, charging pads, rear USB's & everything else

My mrs said I'm stupid anyway but that's it final, won't bother with it. brilliant advice folks 👍👍

For what it's worth, I think that's a good call, given the missing service history.

Indeed, it always saddens me that the worst service is likely to come from the two most expensive things you ever buy in life: a house and a car. The former is actually getting worse (houses get progressively smaller, more expensive relative to incomes, and lower in build quality) and I don't see much improvement in estate agents. The latter? The cars themselves continue to improve and consumer protection has (mostly) got better, but the culture in the motor trade remains atrocious (unless, evidently, you buy a Lexus). We've all got horror stories, and will continue to accumulate them it seems, as the OP has amply demonstrated.

Leave it disconnected and see what warning lights come on or what stops working! Alternatively type the part number into Google.

Gax, Thank you for another very helpful reply. The GDPR point hadn't occurred to me. I won't find the message quite as annoying now.

DQ250 boxes and DQ380 or 381 boxes all do the same thing with diesels - they slip and move into second gear as soon as possible. They will only go into first if there is an incline or you need rapid acceleration.

I've also been very impressed with my 1.5 TSI manual which can achieve averages of 60mpg when driving at 50mph on the motorway (there's an average speed limit for most of this journey with a mile either side of 30mph roads). ATC is active for a lot of this but it shows just how much economy you can get from the engine. Other shorter or faster journeys are usually in the 45/55 mpg range.

Often seems to be that pin, you may have seen a video of me wobbling it in another thread. 20200910_155143.mp4

it solved the issue - interior lights work, central locking works, "headlights on" warning works, also I had problem with locking the car from inside, which is also fixed.

Sorry "O" level, I am so old it was GCEs nearly half a century ago.

For me its tied into automatic wipers, there is an option in the MIB where you can let the car turn on lights if it detects rain, cant recall from the top of my head what the feature is called! So as long as you have wipers on auto as well it should turn the lights on the second it turns the wiper/senses rain..

Yeah I'm going to swerve it, much as I'm hoping that my first car would have been an Octavia I don't think this is the right one. For my budget, the lack of a service history doesn't give much peace of mind. I've really appreciated the advice given on the replies here to help put some context into my decision.

Every time my vehicle goes into the mechanic they turn the auto lights off. I have had an occasion where, they day after new tyres were fitted, I was driving in dusk and didn't realise the auto lights weren't on until another motorist shouted at me

Hello 👋🏻, I followed your previous posts with interest as I too have Canton and wanted to improve the sound of the subwoofer as much as possible. I found that sound deadening the front doors had an excellent effect to both the rattle from the speakers and the road noise. I now have a little leftover sound deadening material and wondered if you could share your thoughts on which area most improved the quality of sound from the Canton subwoofer please? From reading your posts, I thought this may be the boot area? Your views would be greatly appreciated, thank you 👍🏻

I purchased a nearly new car from Skoda Stockport 18 months ago. Long story short they had hidden damage to the car with just 1500 miles on the clock which I found the week following the purchase. A long process of resolution followed thereafter however I found their ethics, honesty and quality of work to be highly suspect. I would personally find another dealer.

Hi guys, Damn dumpers, simply design flaw. I went crazy and even removed everything from my trunk, and rattling noise was still there. Even though that there might be issue with hydraulic door lifters plastic shield, but at the end problem was definitely dampers. So I SOLVED the problem by following advice in this topic and applied two felt pads (left and right) and voila, rattling noise disappeared:)

Our Fabia developed very similar sounding problems to yours, and it turned out to be a failed solder joint within the passenger front lock unit: Locking misbehaviour, another possible cause - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Experiment repeatedly (to try to build up a clear picture) with each of the front doors as follows: Unlock the car with the remote fob, open just one of the front doors and leave it open for a minute without doing anything else. If the car remains unlocked then the 'door open' message has got through to the places it needs to. If the car re-locks itself automatically, then it hasn't sensed that that door has opened. This points to an issue with the lock unit, usually. Sometimes it's the microswitch on the outside of the lock unit, sometimes it's a cracked solder joint, sometimes a wire broken; either way, replacing the whole lock unit is the pragmatic fix. It may be that you don't get a 100% pass/fail situation for each of the doors - both microswitch and solder joint problems can present as intermittent issues - but it may clarify which is currently the least reliable, and then probably worth fixing that one, and repeat testing of the other side if any misbehaviour remains afterwards. If you have an electrical test meter and want to test the wiring yourself, you can unplug the light brown connector where the door loom connects into the A-pillar, and measure between pins 2 and 5. These should be short-circuit/connected while the door is open. This is only goin to prove that the wiring is intact if you ever get a positive result. If you never see that short circuit, it could be the wiring or the lock unit at fault. Realistically, a visual inspection of the wires in the door hinge area each side will tell you if there are broken ones; the thin brown/yellow (UK pass side) and brown/violet (UK driver's side) going to pin 2 of each of the light brown A-pillar connectors are the most likely culprits.

Thanks for the clarification!! You will be laughing for a while when I say it, but here we go.. All the times I read "washer", a round metallic part came to my mind, so I could not understand what a washer had to do with all this.. I think my mind was just omitting "jet" part as I have strongly associated "washer" to the "hardware" part that is normally placed between the nut and the bolt (I worked as a mechanical designer in the past).

Nice, thanks, already ordered.

This means you're lucky ( or not?? 😂 😂 Might be something way more expensive).

60mpg at 60mph average is very good for a petrol engine and the 1.0tsi is a comparatively efficient unit but based on my limited experience of driving on UK motorways, I think it is about right in near ideal temps. If you are a naturally economical driver who does not brake much then I don't think the 48volt mild hybrid system would have contributed very much to your results. I see no reason why you will not get similar consumption, maybe better, from your manual 1.5tsi (with cylinder deactivation) in similar circumstances. The mk4 has exceptional aerodynamics for its class and that has got to help at higher average speeds.

Hi, I went to the dealer and insisted to give me a written reason for their decision. Their reason is that: the Steering Rack is completely snapped but they wrote that they can not specify if this item has been damaged due to external factors or is a defect in manufactory.

Another update: BAD news for me. GOOD news for you. But first, the brake booster parts: part number Description Remark ST Model data individual parts for brake servo 2 114595801 diaphragm 1 A 3 114595162 piston 1 A 5 114595784 compensation washer 1 A 6 114595770 disc 1 A 7 114595671 spring 08.76 - 06.82 1 A (7) 114595672 spring 07.82 - 12.89 1 A 8 114595800 seal 1 A 9 114595761 retaining ring 1 A 10 114595783 spacer 1 A 12 114595222 non-return valve 1 A 18 933201622 seal ring 16X2 1 A 20 114595741 stop buffer 1 A 21 114595785 underlay 08.76 - 12.89 1 A 22 954038107 seal ring G38X50X7 1 A 23 114595221 valve 1 A 24 114595120 dust cap 1 A 25 114595350 gaiter 1 A 26 no longer available 08.76 - 07.83 1 A 26A 114595311 slide rod 08.83 - 12.89 1 A 28 114595900 seal 08.76 - 07.83 1 A 30 114595710 ring 09.83 - 12.89 50MM 1 A Inspecting the old brake booster today, I've discovered this: (Output rod seal. No:8 on the list above) The most important part is the main diaphragm. In my case, main diaphragm might be intact. I don't know. But this seal is ruptured and it will leak air for sure. Searching for the parts, I've discovered that, parts stores are selling this seal for $1.5. It's a set with retaining ring. (Codes: 114595800 and 114595761) They use this same part for Renault 12 and Fiat 131 too. So it's not hard to find. This is one of the cheap fixes that the mechanics could use to charge you $$$ and if you are leaving the old parts with the mechanic. They will repair it with a $1.5 part, and sell it for more $$$. If you have a hissing brake booster, remove the master cylinder, check this part when the engine is running. If this seal is defective. You are lucky. You can replace it in minutes for $1.5. No need to replace the whole brake booster and save lots of $$$.

You don't say if you've a manual or DSG but if it's the latter then yes, it's gone into coasting mode when it doesn't need to apply a load to maintain momentum and the 'D' indicator in the maxidot will display 'E' instead.

As you've found, the side mouldings at the top of the boot are different, so the Edition's won't fit. And I've never seen any made specially for the trim lines with the solid boot cover. On the other hand, it suppresses the noise a lot better than the saggy roll-up cover, and I much prefer the painted bumpers, sports seats, and solid partition to the boot when the rear central arm rest is folded down. Have you seen that you can store the solid boot cover upright alongside the rear seat back while your dogs are in the boot, and then put it back in place to cover up the boot again when they jump out? Chris

Electrically, I only added the sunroof and the towbar prep- nothing too complex!

When you start and accelerate the Haldex Gen 4 automatically kicks in. Also when there is slip at the front.

It's had 1 coat of Hammerite Straight To Metal now for a liberal coating of Plastikote before I say a prayer and mark up my turrets... gawd help me.

Great job finally doing under the seat bench! I found the same as you regarding the hollow sound from the vertical section and applied sound deadening material to that area too - it made a very worthwhile reduction in road noise, and very easy to do. Sorry I can't help regarding the hook/grommets, but have you tried really whacking the seat bench back directly over the hooks? You might find it just needs some persuasion, as I can't remember having any problems with the seat bench locking back in to place when I refitted mine. Cheers, Nick

in Funland there are 2-3 options which they come with. Nice to know what others have.

If the car runs okay, and you like it, then haggle heavily on the price based on you having to get north of £500 of the missing work done. But follow your gut feeling on the car. If you're uhming and ahing, best to walk away. There are lots of good examples about. No need to take a bet on a poorly serviced car. EDIT: Also don't despair if you can't find a good example of what you want right away. This is just anecdotal based on my experience, but I swear the type of car you're looking for are like buses: You look around for ages and then three turn up at once.

Been at the garage for the last 2 days having the Koni Str. T kit (and all that Lemforder gear) fitted. Before and after pics... I've tried to make them equal in proportion, croppage and car filth

They will do FW update of brake component and problem regarding not releasing will be gone.. Had the same issue..

I suggest that you might want to save yourself some Dosh and put in standard diesel plus some Maximus Cetane improver (https://www.hydra-int.com/maximus-diesel-power-booster.html). Far cheaper and better on your wallet.

I can now proudly say, I own a 62 plate 1.6 TDI CR (105bhp) Monte Carlo

Hi VrsAnt, I ended up doing my own electrics fitting using the fantastic guides found on here - apologies to the authors, I forget who they were now (I can email you a copy if you PM address) and those supplied with the towbar. The overall install took a bit of time but was achieved on my own do you should be fine. Things to consider are: Is the car suitable (guessing you have a Vrs) as some require additional parts for cooling etc. Are you able to code the install in? I used OBDeleven and again the guides on here. All above is at own risk, has to be said. Hope that helps Kev

In stealth grey maybe without red bits.

The it is not a DAB unit. DAB was an extra on all Yeti's, I paid extra when speccing the build of the car.

When choosing different bands usually at bottom left is there an option to select DAB?

You can single press for Skoda voice assistant and long press for Android voice assistant - just in case anyone hadn't stumbled across this.