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Pull the indicator stalk down 😉 NB only works intermittently

I surprised myself, I actually managed 15 minutes but now I have to go and lie down in a dark quiet room. If you were trapped in a lift with him how long could you control yourself before you became a homicidal maniac? 15 minutes would be my absolute maximum

He is so 'Green' & so concerned about the environment. Not! He knows full well that 2013 / 14 EV's are not being scrapped because of Battery Degradation, not even 11 year old ones. Many in the UK this week would have been happy to have one even if the range was only 80 miles from a charge. The Batteries will be reused and are not needing as much energy to reuse / recycle as producing from new. The rest of the car can be recycled just as a ICE vehicle can.

Every 40k miles worth doing the Haldex at the same time (oil change and filter clean)

Good thread revival. The tyre is only scrap where someone can not be bothered to clean out the gloop, and then do a plug repair properly. So that will be tyre and exhaust centre operatives or lazy owners usually. Tight people like me just get on with not scrapping perfectly good tyres.

Progress is slowwww😅

No you can't, it's physical wear, if you're going to all trouble of stripping it down to clean and regrease it then you might as well replace it.

I had to have mine replaced at 45k. I chose to get it done straight away rather than risk failure at 70mph and the droning noise was a pain. The wheels felt fine with no play but when I examined the old bearings off the car they felt quiet gritty.

Exchanged the lease Yeti 1.4 TSI DSG Joy for a Karoq 1.5 TSI ACT Greentech DSG Buss Edition last Thursday. Exchange should have been early May, but it was postponed several times.

Hey! Finally my upload meter did a reset and i can upload few new pics to this forum Follow my instagram: @vrsmk4 https://instagram.com/vrsmk4

It's a computer and they all have glitches. This may or may not work but you have nothing to lose except a bit of time and it does cure some glitches. Reboot your infotainment system 3 times in succession and no, I'm not joking. If you don't know how to do it, keep your finger on the on/off icon for a few seconds until you hear a loud bleep/noise/pop. As said, do this 3 times in succession. Don't worry, it won't do any harm, nor will you lose any personal settings. If this doesn't work you can try a factory reset, but with this you will lose any personal settings that you've entered. The system reboot does work for certain ailments, but is not guaranteed for all of them. Worth a try though and only takes a few minutes.

Sochi is not the Red Bull Ring F1 cars are not motorcycles Londo Norris is not Brad Binder.

This happened to me last Wednesday. Got in the car, started it up and it flagged up "Front Assist Not Available". Had this happen once before and found leaves stuck across the sensor so checked that and was all ok. It never came on again on Wednesday so thought it was just a one off glitch. Haven't used the car again until this morning and the battery was so dead it wouldn't spin the starter so put my jump start pack on and it started straightaway so I'm of the opinion that the battery is on the way out and the front assist not available was just the start of it. Once it started and I gave it a good run it was starting ok every time and when I got back I put the charger on to boost it up but have decided to bite the bullet and I've ordered a new Varta agm battery and get it fitted before any other problems throw up. After searching around I managed to get the Varta for £108 delivered from Battery Megastore which seems a good price. Should have that on Tuesday so I'll fit that and hopefully all will be ok.

I’m sure 1.5 TSI FWD Kodiaqs have the DQ381 wet clutch DSG

This is its first winter

Evil Bay & Amazon. Green Flash EV stickers.

It sounds to me as though you are not fully understanding how the car works out how far it thinks it can travel on a 100% charge. It's not clear from your note, but I am assuming that you are saying that on different days that you are seeing an ESTIMATED range that varies between 34 and 23 miles. If this is the case, then what you are seeing, is BASED ON your previous days driving. The car is estimating what your next journey will be, if you drive in the same way as you did yesterday (or since your last charge), but it never is. This does not mean that the actual distance that you can travel will actually be 34 or 23 miles. The actual range each time you drive is totally dependant on how you drive on the current charge. For example, I have driven 42 miles on a 100% charge when the car has estimated that my range is only 24 mile. This was because I drove in a very economical manner. After driving 42 miles the car estimated that my next charge to 100% would do 42 miles, but it wasn't because I drove differently. In general you can expect the battery to give slightly less range in really cold weather, but the last few weeks should not have been cold enough to cause too much difference. I was told by the dealer that the "fix" for me was software (the car computer), however my range was initially far less than you have quoted so I do not think that you have the same problem. I was only getting 16 miles of actual range on a full charge. For comparison, my current range is varying between 24 and 35 so it's in line with what you are seeing, so I think that there is no fault. You need to be more aware of the actual number of miles that you get from each 100% charge, and not the estimated range. If the car has been using petrol as well as battery, the estimated battery only range is always going to be unreliable. A key indicator of actual battery capability (and how you have been driving) is shown on the electric information display shown as miles per kw. For me with short trips around town I rarely get anything any higher 2.6 miles per kilowatt hour of charge, which means no more than about 24 miles of actual range. When driving on the open road at a steady speed of 45 to 50 mph, the miles per kilowatt will be between 4 and 5, and gives an actual range of between 35 and 40 miles. All of my driving information quoted here is based on using the "B" drive mode, with 100% regeneration, with no reserve for battery. Unlike full electric cars, the Superb has gears which will affect actual range in the same way as with petrol. You will get less range if you are driving in low gears. For me, the only way to prove if the car has a fault or not, is to drive on a road with no stops at about 45mph. This should give you somewhere between 32 and 40 miles before the battery is all used (set the option reserve battery to zero so that the battery is fully used before the car switched to hybrid auto mode). If you can do the same route, in the same driving style, you should get a consistent result. If you then drive with lots of gear changes and acceleration, on the same route you will see a substantial drop in the actual distance travelled before the battery runs out. This is how it is supposed to work, and cannot be fairly compared to an ALL ELECTRIC car which has only one gear. Hope this helps.

Not on a mk1 or mk2 Fabia, to the best of my knowledge. They use a Gen2 bearing set-up like the one shown here: VW POLO (6R) 2009>2015 FRONT HUB WHEEL BEARING KIT WITH ABS **BRAND NEW** | eBay all integrated with the hub and ABS magnetic ring. Don't think it's possible to remove those from the bearing housing non-destructively; and they need special tooling to install, as demonstrated e.g. here:

ŠKODA’s only appearance at the world-famous 24 Hours of Le Mans race came 70 years ago in the extremely rare ŠKODA SPORT and one of the only two prototypes ever built will make a return to the same event in 2021. On 24 June 1950, a Saturday, the ŠKODA factory team finally made it: The enhanced version of the 1101 Sport was positioned diagonally in front of the pit wall of the 13.65km ‘Circuit des 24 Heures’, ready for the Le Mans start at 16.00 hrs, which was still common at that time – the drivers lined up on the opposite side of the track ready to sprint to their racing cars at the signal, jump in, start the engine and speed off. https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/heritage/skoda-sport-fast-at-le-mans/ https://classiccarcuration.co.uk/rare-skoda-sport-makes-welcome-return-to-le-mans-in-2021/

I have it on my 21 Scala. Got it in April so I haven't had any frost yet to try it seriously but it does de-mist very quickly. I can see the wires if I look hard enough in the right light but normally I don't notice.

You are correct but finding a tyre place that would clean out the tyre and repair it, I would imagine is difficult. I have washed it out of motorcycle tyres and it isn't difficult to do but time consuming. A lot easier and more profit in selling you a new tyre.

That is the issue with Skoda Main Dealers and Full Main Dealer Servicing, that does not mean serviced to Manufacturers Recommendations or Guidelines. They do not call them a Schedule as many Skoda Approved Cars would then be 'Not serviced as according to the Manufacturers Service Schedule'. The 4 years here is wrong with the DSG, but many dealers are now counting on people paying attention.

DSG and Haldex are not done under normal services, they are an extra. IF you dealer says either doesn’t need doing then find a good independent VAG garage to do it.

Thanks! Very helpful video, cars going back to dealer on Tuesday for repair as I've only had it around 7 weeks.

Not to be a joker, but you didn't say you checked / changed the pistons or piston rings. 😂

@smipxIf you are watching economy now and then by maybe late October and early November the conditions you drive under and the ambient temp is much the same you might see if any change when Winter Spec petrol is in filling stations in the South West. Consumption might even get better as long as it is just a bit colder but you are not only doing short trips. No need for defrosting and messing about.

My 2018 S-Cross has similarly appreciated in value. Autotrader currently rates it's second hand sale price >£14k, so presumably it'd retail >£15k. I did consider a Vitara, but the boot is smaller and the top model isn't as well equipped (main ommision was a lack of leather heated seats).

I don’t want to encourage you for anything, but let me tell you something.. I drove an Audi A4 Avant with the last version of the well known 1.9 TDI engine( the bulletproof one, as some call it. Bought it second hand and drove it for nearly 100k km. It used to burn oil from the first day I got it. But no power loss was observed at all. I spent a lot of money to fix things in order to cure that oil consumption: valve steam seals, additives, rocker cover with builtin PCV, EGR delete, turbo CHRA replacement, different oil brands, etc.. Nothing helped, the oil consumption of about 1l per 1500-2500km remained. As I said, I drove it 5-6 years and then left it to my wife when I bought another car. I gave it to her and I started to change only the oil filter it was on top fortunately. At the end one of the cylinders stopped working and I sold it to an enthusiast who wanted to open the engine and fix it. It turned out to be a cracked piston based on the pictures which her new owner sent me

Also it's raining here today, so suspect it's full of water😁

I'm glad this has been posted up! I've just had a cheery message from our local "Main Stealer" telling me that our 4 years service is due. This is true, the car's service indicator is indeed, telling me I have an oil service due soon. However, the car has only done about 27,000 miles. She's quoting an absolute bargain of a mere £409 (all-in) for the service and *only* another £289 for the DSG oil change...😁 Does anyone have any recommendations for a trusted independent in North West Cumbria, please? And can anyone confirm whether DSG oil changes are purely on mileage or on time elapsed?

well its been a running week... mon was a grand 7k by the river with no knee pain. Wednesday i went west, and around a couple of street blocks to make up a 6.5k. again it was alright, no knee pain. yesterday's run was back to riverside route and a 6.5k at ebd of which my knee just said "hello, dont forget me..." happy with how irs holding up though

Perhaps the car manufacturers tweaked their sofware to meet emissions tests at the detriment of E5 fuel users?? Maybe (just maybe) VAG tweaked their cars to be great in the latest tests and those tests used E10 (perhaps). For the UK the emissions might have been (perhaps) worse until the UK adopted E10 as the engine was tweaked via software algorithms to run most efficiently on E10 and E5??? We all remember Diesilgate and the lengths some manufacturers went to to manipulate the figures with all sorts of unkown consequences. Who knows what they might have done here with a 2019 1.5tsi with DSG to scrape it past WLTP and who knows why my car "seems to be better" on E10 than it was on E5. I know nothing of these things and am speculating wildly with no real knowlege to be honest. What I do like is my new more fuel efficient Karoq 🙂 If it is not all 2019 1.5TSi DSG Karoq's then it must be snake oil (some other factor like Roadworks on usual routes, driving slower because of mobile speed traps that are in over exuberent force in my area just now, etc. etc.) or... My car was set overly lean at teh factory and was never picked up in the two services (or adjusted) - but I don't know if it even a fixed thing these days (controlled dynamically by the ECU???). or.. my car was tweaked at the last service (August) in anticipation of E10 rolling out in September ??? Probably snake oil - ha ha... Paul

Well the Karoq I have must have come from the factory "a bit lean" then (perhaps by mistake or perhaps in anticipation of folk using E10 fuel). All I can say is my MPG appears to be a little better and not a little worse (and I'm happy with that). 🙂 The car has been serviced by VAG twice (once about 2 months ago). On the subject of Oxygen : https://auto.howstuffworks.com/oxygen-engine.htm Its not just a binder 🙂 but - of course not relavant or useful in this application either. Cheers, Paul

Good lookin car mate, certainly hiding the mileage well. As others have said, check invoices, dealer should be able to provide proof of what they have carried out. Also loving the E39 in the background 😎

Same here, the Ambiente is just the face-lifted Comfort anyway but mine does the opposite.

Usually about 2mm or 1/8" for front pads; discs are a variable.

We’re getting a bit confused in the wording, that’s all. Normally, pushing the pedal down is “DISengaging” the clutch. (The clutch being the mechanism near the gearbox, not the pedal. When you’re not pressing the pedal, drive is engaged.) Allowing the pedal back up is “engaging” the clutch, or “releasing” the clutch. “Declutching” means to press the pedal down.

Hi mate cheers for the quick reply, my bad I’ve had a busy day. I will buy the genuine stuff, roughly how much do you think it will cost? As I will be doing the DSG service from skoda for £215 too. Also, whilst I’m here. Is it possible to remap my car at this mileage, many say it’ll be fine if it’s been a well looked after car, which it is by the looks of it. Thanks buddy! Just a pic of my bug, I do love it tbf :)

well ............ She's home!! In the drive safe and sound. I am staggered how wonderful she looks (Petrol Blue, Beige Leather, Edition... very 'girly' but even my husband admits to it looking very stylish and he was NOT a fan of the beige leather choice.. ).. Even managed to get some Tesco Petrol on the way home - not even a queue... So far, cannot get Apple Car play to work wirelessly.. all ok through a cable.. Thats for tomorrow.. Just want to send out a big big thank you (probably a different topic), to Truscott Skoda, Helford.. Richard Champion is a star!! Couldnt do enough.. Kept me informed every step of the way and delivered when he said he would.. thank you..

You are correct - this does seem to be going round in circles and concentrating on things that, even though I have previously answered, will endeavour to clarify. I have at various times above called having the UK letters on numberplates, law, rules, legislation and updated instructions. The latter quote does not convey any agreement though. They were all used for your benefit but I still say 'law' is the correct one. I'm sure that you have access to Google to be able to search for details and clarification just as much as I have. Maybe also search for information saying it isn't the law too as that would move the onus to you? Regarding the law quote, I don't mean in general - I specifically mentioned you stating that you had never had a GB plate - here 'because in 40 years or driving UK reg vehicles in Europe I have never once had a GB plate, a GB or whatever plate that was legal yesterday will still be legal tomorrow, next year and ad infinitum no matter what political message the UK government is trying to convince you to display.' Therefore you saying it was 'totally unnecessary and without foundation' is not quite right. I don't wish this to become a tit for tat exchange so can we please leave it here - unless you find substantive proof either way then I will be glad to view it. 👏

I have driven a 1.4 TSI Passat (close enough to the Octavia), personally I felt it was little underpowered. If you are going to have passengers and a boot full of stuff, I would go for the diesel or higher powered petrol model. It is worth checking what savings are to be had with the tax, fuel economy and servicing costs between the two cars. My diesel VRS is more expensive to run than my partners Polo TSI on a yearly basis (same mileage) due to tax, servicing and fuel costs.

Tailgate sorted today great to have it back !

Has anyone been able to solve this issue or get down to the cause of the noise discussed here? I myself own a MY2016 Octavia Scout with the 184hp engine and the dsg gearbox. The car has dome 143799 kms (89k miles?). Last year i went to my local VAG dealer and had a test drive with a technician since I've had the car stall on me during takeoff from standstill a couple of times. At the time I had also experienced the noise which the OP stated when driving in traffic and applying throttle in 2nd gear. During this test drive he wanted to rule out the possibility that the clutch or the DMF was going bad. The test drive was very interesting where he tested the gearbox by going back and forth between reverse and drive with the car still moving in the opposite direction. If there would have been any excessive wear on either the clutches or the DMF, he would have noticed it in some way but he assured me that nothing seemed to be out of the ordinary. He wasn't able to replicate the 2nd gear clunks though. He also scanned the car for any error codes but nothing showed up. After the test drive i got booked in for a complete DSG reset with all the clutch adaptations that they do. The car had a DSG service done at an independent garage only half a year before the adaptation procedure. Neither the service nor the adaptation fixed the issue and here I am to this day with the same problem still persisting. The good news is that the noise hasn't gotten any worse over time. Sorry for my bad English (I'm not a native speaker).

Thanks pixels, I had a similar quote so same ballpark for my dry clutch DSG. Hope the fix lasts a good few thousand miles E-roottoot, looking at the stickers in the boot it hasn't had 34h5, nor does the Skoda recall site suggest it's required. I thought it would have had something since it's a 2014. Just posted the symptoms on the 'famous dq200 slip' thread if you're interested...Skoda rapid symptoms

Grd3105, see the first link and video for general clockspring info and the second video for Fabia specific (about halfway through for clockspring, I'm not sure why he had trouble with the steering lock, I never, but I'm not technical 😄). Youcanic - closckspring general, see text and video - https://www.youcanic.com/article/airbag-clock-spring Fabia (wiper stalk fix) video - https://youtu.be/w4CWH5p5VWM As you're going to disconnect the battery you might as well give it a long, slow and low recharge, you know it makes sense. 😁

The 03L130277B was superseded by 03L130277S but the old model wasn't recalled. They are notorious for failing. One of my originals failed at 110k miles and I was quoted £600 including VAT from a main stealer for the new S model (part only) last week. If you're intent on changing it with a new injector, you should get the VDO A2C9626040080 for quite a bit cheaper. Autodoc usually have these for £280-285 but have gone up to £305 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vdo/10586786 They are unreliable at best and were showing in stock but cancelled my recent order. The ukdieselparts site doesn't let you to check out and don't answer their phones so I assume they've closed/gone bust. Google shows they're permanently closed. I ended up changing my bad injector with a second hand one. Reason being, the listings on eBay for reconditioned and refurbs don't specify whether you'll get the updated VDO A2C9626040080 or VW 03L130277S part. Most likely, you'll get a reconditioned 03L130277B injector which may go bad eventually. The price for a recons are not far off a new VDO unit so you may as well buy a new one. This seller has sold quite a few of the VDO ones and has them for £289 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163183085716 Remember you'll need a new stretch bolt to hold the clamp in, VW part WHT003187, around £2.5 from a main stealer

You can get up to speed quicker by slipstreaming faster vehicles like milk floats.

Here is the car almost finished 😁

Lane 'assist' may work on motorways but on country roads it is the most dangerous bit of kit I have ever come across. When you are getting near the hedge it is trying very hard to steer you into a head on collision with the tractor you would rather avoid. It also seems to be very good at reading the blobs of glue left over from temporary road studs, rather that the nice new while line about eighteen inches further over. It will quite happily try to steer you into the side of the Artic. It's a good idea in theory but is somewhat lacking in reality. There really needs to be a way of turning it off permanently (an axe perhaps?).

if it's anything like other hybrid cars then it shouldn't charge fully - if it did you would get no benefit from the regenerative braking during initial stages of a trip, as there'd be nowhere for the charge from it to go...