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Crossing a river without these new fangled bridge contraptions

Thanks guy's for all the suggestions. I eventually used the cable recommended by Mark Miscock https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M4CQHZ but in conjunction with the left angle cable from this set https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072B821VV I simply used a piece of heatshrink over the connector to prevent them coming apart and then hid it under the headliner. I'll upload a few pictures when I get home but it looks very tidy and professional looking. My only concern is that the battery life in the Nextbase is cr@p and I doubt it would last a night in standby mode. Anyway, many thanks again to everyone especially Mark Hiscock. John

This evening's sunset..............

Well! I just had a play with some of the com port settings via device manager, Win XP doesn't have a FIFO buffers checkbox so instead I just: - Lowered the data transfer rates - Switched to com4 instead of 3 - Switched the system appearance to Windows Classic Style. Now when running VCDS connection test the latency shows 'excellent' instead of 'poor' as previously. And the ECU module connection seemed very stable 🎉 I was able to happily open the 're code' section of both modules without any connection issues. A great success in my books. now I just need to do some more research around which numbers to change for my cruise control retrofit plans.

Hi everyone. I've been dipping into the Briskoda forums for years having owned two Octavias (1.9 TDi manual and 1.6 TDi DSG) and a previous Superb Estate (2011 2.0 TDi 170 4x4 manual). They have all been brilliant so I took the plunge in January 2020 and spent far more than I ever thought I'd spend on a car to upgrade to my current Superb TSi 280 L&K 4x4 Estate. It's a 2017 but seems to be of MY 2018 spec with the 9.2 inch Columbus system. It is a fabulous car and, due to the pandemic, now seems to be worth about £5k more than I paid for it, which is nice! 😁. I never joined the forums before as I always found what I needed just by browsing, but I encountered an issue yesterday with updating to the 2022 maps that I could not resolve, so joined up for some help. I received good advice within hours and have now got it sorted the next day thanks to the helpful Briskoda community. It is a great resource and I am delighted to be here!

Good morning!

Depends on the year whether -2016 or after but it can be quite involved depending on if you just replace seats or strip them and add heated mats (either time consuming or money consuming), new wiring looms, control units (year depending) and heater controls. as well as the partial interior strip to get the seats out and run new looms

175/65R14 tyre size on 5Jx14 ET35 4/100 57.1 steel rim would match up well to a 195/45R16 as they both have about the same outside diameter and 175/65R14 is a standard size on the Citigo. Outside diameter of 195/45R16 is 581.9mm Outside diameter of 175/65R14 is 583.1mm 165/70R14 tyre size on 5Jx14 ET35 4/100 57.1 steel rim would match up well to a 185/50R16 as they both have about the same outside diameter and 165/70R14 is a standard size on the Citigo. Outside diameter of 185/50R16 is 591.4mm Outside diameter of 165/70R16 is 586.6mm One of the following two OEM part numbers could be used to order a suitable steel rim from a Skoda dealer: 1S0601027 1S0601027G (1) 1S0 601 027 steel rim additionally to be used items: 5JX14 ET35 5 1 PR-1G1,1G2 1S0601027 03C rally black 2010.11... (1) 1S0 601 027 G steel rim additionally to be used items: 5JX14 ET35 5 4 1S0601027G 03C rally black 2010.11... https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/citigo/cit/2013-727/6/601-601012/ mytyres also list this specification of steel rim https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=185747096349971044&rimCode=ALCAR6795 Skoda Citigo 2013 1.0MPI 60PS Tire Rim 165/70R14 81T 5Jx14 ET35 2 / 1.8 175/65R14 81T 5Jx14 ET35 2 / 1.8 185/55R15 81T 5.5Jx15 ET41 2 / 1.8 185/50R16 81T 6Jx16 ET43 2.1 / 2 Skoda Citigo 2013 1.0MPI 75PS Tire Rim 175/65R14 82T 5Jx14 ET35 2 / 1.8 185/55R15 81T 5.5Jx15 ET41 2 / 1.8 185/50R16 81T 6Jx16 ET43 2.1 / 2 195/45R16 84H 6.5Jx16 ET38 2.1 / 2 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/citigo/2013/

As above I got sick of getting MOT advisories for my outer casing on the backbox so got rid of what was left of it to show the stainless steel inner.

Hi all, just an update on my Roomster which is now 6.5 years old from new (2015 deal) and 82000miles on the clock and counting. Mostly driving in and around London's smooth glorious roads (not private hire, lol just saying) Very recently the car developed 2 worrying noises. First noise is from when starting the car to driving, whenever it gets to around 1200-2000rpm, it develops a growling noise coming from the engine. No matter what gear is on. Second noise is when driving in London's lovely and smooth cobble roads, there is a clunking noise coming from the passenger side. First noise I thought is from the clutch or flywheel (still same set from when the car was new). Second noise I thought is loose heat shield. Took it into Norton way Skoda in Wandsworth, they had the car for 3 days and found out that it was in fact a failing water pump (first noise) and a spring hitting the brake caliper (second noise). All is fixed today and the car sounds new. So quiet and pleasent to my ears finally. Would like to thank Norton Way Skoda for finding the problems in a relatively good time frame. Good manners and explanation from the staff there. I hope this helps other Roomster or Skoda owners on trouble shooting noises if you have any similar like mine. Cost was around £550 total for the job. Stay safe everyone!

This should be the p/no which you can Google 5Q0035726E

https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-skoda-octavia-iii-2013-octavia-iii-2014-electrical-system-workshop-manual-edition-12-2014/ Go to page 54 on that PDF and it explains how to get to it. You'd be able to find a part number on it hopefully

Sorry but I'm going to disagree I'd expect cheaper tyres to last more miles, if they last otherwise. A good tyre could easily be one that wears the tread fast, it depends on what the tyre is used for. There are far too many variables, as ApertureS pointed out, to say how long a tyre might last. As with vehicles, manufacturers of tyres might have very good and not in their range but it's doubtful that you can blanket their whole range as either. Models change too so the No.1 tyre last year might be beaten by the competition this year and the last couple of years the compounds seem to have changed so what was an excellent tyre a couple of years ago now may have changed its characteristics. Like a lot of things with cars there's also fashion to consider (not only the decades-old fashion of having over-large and over-wide wheels and tyres with very low (side) profiles there's also tread pattern fashion. Also there's seems to be a belief in absolute figures rather than nominal tyre dimensions, like 8mm tread depth when new, this isn't so it can vary. Only recently I bought some tyres that started with only 6.5mm from new, which seemed to catch other purchases out and annoy some thinking the missing 1.5mm was part of the wear. Also the wear on a tyre needn't necessarily be an even, linear wear over it's life. 3.6mm in the centre and 4.5mm at the edges, would that equate to 4mm had the wear been even over the width of the tyre, I don't know but the difference in those figures does seem odd to me and as KenONeill has put would normally suggest over-inflation. Unless Black263 use the vehicle for regular serious street drag racing down at the supermarket car park. Still be very interesting to hear the Technician's explanation of the tyre wear, not dismissing it.

if you unplugged the seat belt tensioner (when removing seat) with the battery connected, thats why you have the airbag light on, VCDS will turn that off no probs.

Awesome, I think you've just taught me something. I'm pretty sure my latency has always shown as poor. Just assumed that was 'as good as it gets'.

Also got a question, are they any good in rain?

Yeah the tread looks decent enough from the first pic of them. Are they just All Season or full blown winter?

The latest keys have a motion sensor inside that disables the KESSY function when they've not been moved for a while, this should prevent the key relay type theft while the keys are stored at home.

It really is Girling, I read a book about Favorit development, where chief engineer specifically wanted variant used in Sierra - It was shortly before asbestos pads were phased out, so Favorit was equipped with larger brakes than it needed (but they are still small by modern standards) That fits with 1993, when many parts were modified and since that point, Favorit was closer to early Felicia.

They're not the same, disconnecting from the battery is disconnecting that part of the system where as pushing the button is just switching off the start/stop (until you switch the "ignition" off, usually when you park up, and back on again usually when you next use the car).

That's the mk2, they only have the mk1

Yes any flap motor change must be followed by what is called "basic settings" - the AC controller drives each motor to both mechanical end stops and stores the positional feedback voltages for normal use limits.

In my experience most parts of suspensions, axles and brakes are specific for this model (like rubber bushings, arms, dampers, damper carriers, brake calipers, etc.....), but find these parts, or motor parts too, is not a big problem, as they are made by other companies and they don't have to be necessarily OEM parts. I basically mean small plastic parts, moldings, seals (doors, glasses......), interior parts like carpets, fabrics, linings, secure belts, etc...... My car is in overall "more than good" conditions, but I want her as perfect as possibile. Glasses too are not easy to find, I'm looking for an OEM windscreen because mine has a little stone chip (repaired with resin, but still not perfect, and resinn comes off with years). I can find non OEM ones, but I want it with Skoda marks and codes like every other glass. I bought a large supply of every plastic clips, I know exactly what kind of headache you're referring to 😄 but caged nuts are a good advice, thank you!

@HyperDog Also make sure mechanic can reset the motor once it's installed. Mine said he had to use the fancy scan tool to reset the system. After nearly a year it's been perfect.. Hope you fix!

There I would disagree. This is a classic over-inflation wear pattern.

'Athletic life' is a bit of a stretch but I like to think I have remained active, necessary because most of my working life involved relatively sedentary office jobs. My son is a very active and fit firefighter and having to wear heavy firefighting equipment in hot Australian weather means his boots are a fungal heaven but says using methylated spirits has kept it under control. Hopes it works for your wife, it usually takes two or three days before noticeable improvements. You can substitute rubbing alcohol but they will both sting on application if the wounds are raw. I think it is effective because apart from the antiseptic effect it dries the area between the toes as it evaporates.

Had mine for 2 en half years now ,mines the estate vrs petrol,its a spacious rapid mover ,obviously its nothing near as fast as yours but they dont hang about (speed awareness course booked for december haha) bit noisy on crappy motorway surfaces ,ive travelled up and down this country in mine and never get fed up of driving it .

Hi, I took it to a mechanic and he changed the recirculation motor. Was costly though... Like £200 for the motor and the labour made it more. It's the one behind the glovebox I think. It could be any of the 4 motors that control the air con but in my case was the recirculation one. You may be able to see for yourself if you remove glove box and have a look at the motor when I was in recirc it was working fine but the issue was when it went in to normal mode the recirc motor wouldn't close and kept trying to close and that's why the air was coming and going. Hope this helps, I can't remember the later number or anything I may have a loom if you need. Let me know.

just back in the house after swapping over to the new shifter. (yes, its late enough but such is life) grip off, brake lever off, then snip the crimp and unlace the cable, then take off the shifter. new shifter on and roughly tighten it up, thread the new cable through the sheaths to the end and get tension about right. brake lever back on and the grip back on the bar and no weird clicky shifts anymore but i need to twiddle the tension and index screw etc to get it settled in right. and adjust the angle of the shifter and brake lever again on a test ride. ill update hopefully in the next few days with the tear down of the old one, see whats what inside it.

The Beemer is really nice and very quick but I'm commuting more now in it for work with a fair bit on motor way so was thinking something a little lighter on the wallet

Nothing fancy, Aplus A701 is the name of the tyre. 65 each fitted. No rim protectors to speak of, but plenty of sidewall. Treads on them certainly make them seem like they're fit for purpose, i'll grab a photo of the tread pattern next day. And I take back what I said a few hours ago, it would seem that the brace has made a difference after all, not by much but I was out in the car on some backroads and the car certainly felt a bit sharper turning in, and going through some S curves it certainly felt more planted. Should note it was a much tighter fit in my mk2 compared to my mk1 for whatever reason, had to employ both a scissor jack and a rubber mallet to wedge it into place.

What tyres have you gone for?

Random thought- petrol 99.9p on page one of this thread...

I've had the 95K1 software applied to mine, about 3.5 yrs ago. It is purely meant to fix the headlight startup sequence, so that it (headlight dance) doesn't get "stuck" or interrupted by ignition firing up. It doesn't do anything to the headlight range/performance. As it's been said before - park approx. 7m from a wall, pop the bonnet, using an Allen key, make slight adjustments to the adjuster on the top of the headlight. There r two adjusters - one for vertical throw and another for horizontal. Adjust the vertical one. See image below. If u need to make major adjustments - then u need VCDS or OBDEleven to put the headlights into Learning mode before u can make adjustments.

So in conclusion all VW, Skoda and Seat dealers here in the UK are ripping customers off by telling them that the timing belt needs changing every 5 years on engines that have a belt for life- no wonder its called rip off Britain. Wonder when anyone is going to wake up to the scrappage scandal next- I forget what year now but I wanted to buy a car for my wife that year- before scrappage car was £6k cash- Citroen C1, a few months later that same year and scrappage had started that same car was priced at £9k-- literally a few months later- every dealership in the UK ripped off the UK govt and when questioned about the price increase they blamed it on higher import pricing from the continent- oh really- what utter bull! Needless to say I did not buy a car with a 50 percent increase in price after just a few months.

@Bill65Which ECO / Ditch finder tyres did your Koroq come with. A decent set of All Weather tyres can make lots of difference even if the identical size to the Summer ('all season' ) OEM fitment. (all season as in hopeless most of the time)

I would have edited the last post, but I have found a later year version of the spec list from 2004 which states that electric seats and what I mentioned in the last post is actually an option.

In TC-6you can see the fuel consumption (liters per hour) from the start till the speed of 32 km, above this point shows liters/100km From 0-32 km the numbers change every 1-2 seconds and so fast that if you try to pay attention to them the crash with the front car is guaranteed. Unfortunately i haven't travel in highway those days so i have no picture of fuel consumption liter per hour at steady speed of 30 km and above this.

They work just as well on secondhand cars. 😉

Hi all - I’m all the way down in New Zealand. I picked up my first Skoda a few days ago. A Mk.III Octavia vRS. It’s been kept standard by the previous owner so it’s a bit of a blank canvas. I’ve got a few small plans like rear diffuser and maybe a change of front grill etc. and a few longer terms plans like lowering. This is the first car I’ve actually owned for about 15 years having had the luxury of company cars all that time. The last car I owned was a GSR Lancer turbo which was a heap of fun - 4 days into owning this vRS and so far it’s promising to be even better. Anyway, love seeing what y’all have done with your own cars, so any advice on the best places for aftermarket parts would be great.

How old is the battery?

As a suggestion, get yourself a good tyre pressure gauge and a electric pump (plug in 12 volt type) from your favorite online supermarket, check what the existing pressures are and try running them up at the 'ECO' settings on the tyre plaque according to your normal loading - then progressively drop the pressures approx. 1 psi at a time and see if you start to like the ride more.

Those tyres should offer good comfort. Have you checked the pressures? Mqb cars are quite sensitive to tyre pressure. Also comfort has many factors. My old Octavia was more comfortable to drive after lowering and upgrading shocks. The body control meant I didn't have to brace myself in the seat while cornering. It was much stiffer though and Mrs g82 didn't appreciate it most of the the time. Apart from long journeys. We both felt fresher after the mods. Also the tyre model contributes to comfort and feel.

. The garage do pay VAT on what they buy. The difference is that - as a VAT registered concern - they can and will reclaim it. BTDT .

A few more

Me, whispering from the side: do it, buy it...

Haven’t been on here for a few years. Was great to see your thread again.👍 I have a Vrs itch again….

So, I thought I'd update this post as I've just come across this (to me), the most well spec'd out Octavia I've seen. This L&K seems to have electric seats? So I gather this must've been an option from the factory, unless it has been retrofitted, but I can't see it being in this example. Multi-fuction steering wheel also, which is a nice touch. It has Xenons too.

My MY19 SEL has heated mirrors, the switch being on the rotary control knob.

I’ve not had a problem updating my Columbus 2018 (done a couple of times and due to do again), I use a 128gb micro sd in SD adapter (borrowed from the dash cam usually) and just extract the downloaded file using standard winzip on windows 10 with the card formatted using windows and copy the extracted folders across. I enter the car via the passenger door and turn on the infotainment by holding the power button then start the update and leave the car locked. It just does it’s thing and doesn’t turn off or flatten the battery. Usually takes about 40 minutes 🤷‍♂️