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No, red is better. Black is beautiful for about five minutes after each cleaning. (Nice photoshop job.)

So first month or so of ownership complete. We bought our mk3 estate due to a baby on the way and having a large dog. The superb being the best wagon out there it was a no brainier really. I’ve always been a bit of a car snob in terms of wanting rare and unique cars. Our other car is a DS5 which I love however they messed up putting such hard suspension on it. That’s now the commuter for whoever’s at work that day. Previous to that I’ve had Alfa GT coupe v6, Z4 M coupe and a raft of Volvos. I have to say the superb is the best car I’ve had. It’s the mix of comfort and the technology that just suit exactly what we need. There is no compromise. Had my first long trip Thursday. A flying visit to South Wales and back from Cambridge in a day. This is my first car with radar cruise and what a difference it makes to getting tired. Takes so much stress away just leaning on the tech to look after you. I’ve always tongue in cheek made fun of VAG group cars, mainly the why would you buy a Audi Q5 when Skoda do the same underpinnings for less kind of thing. But I think having the Superb is the best balance to that as it’s the best value on this chassis but I don’t feel like I’ve lost any luxury at all. It’s certainly better built than my Z4 M coupe. This forum has been great as well. The Z4 forum was great but most others are very hit and miss. The Superb section on this forum is bursting compared to the other models and you’re all very knowledgeable. Baby was born on Sunday and hopefully coming out of hospital soon after a few little scares. And we can get Jenson the dog in with him. Cars been nicknamed JBP (Jenson Baby Palace) due to the palatial size of the thing. Perfect family car is ready to go.

Bought a wee citigo as the family runabout. We have a QashQai as the main family motor It’s a 2018 colour edition, I test drove a few small cars and the citigo was by far the best in my opinion.

The new front coilovers are AP mk1 Focus units, as I mentioned previously. For top mounts I bought some CompBrake adjustable solid parts. The only part of the front struts which was reused was the top spring cap. These do not look like standard Caddy (Felicia) parts, and nor do they resemble the parts that came with the coilovers, so I have no idea what they were originally designed for, but they are perfect for what I need. The FK front coilovers had been pressed into the hub carriers with considerable force, and there was no way they could be removed. Because of this I had to source some replacement hub carriers, which I had machined to accommodate the new coilovers and the larger mounting bolts for my Ford (ATE) callipers. When they came back from the machine shop I gave them a lick of paint before trial fitting the assembled front struts. Anti-roll bar and drop-link bushes had been sourced from Superflex months back, but when I tried them against the ARB I realised it is 20mm diameter, not 22mm as I had thought. The 20mm bushes took a couple of weeks to arrive from Poland, but when they did the package contained a note apologising for the delay, and a small pack of Haribo. I will be happy to order from them again. New wishbones were fitted, and went on a treat with new bolts after the damaged captive thread had been re-tapped. The ARB drop-link bushes and drop-link mounting bushes are actually the same as mk2 Ibiza parts, although the Ibiza drop-link is straight whereas the Caddy part is inclined. In this photo the plastic bag is protecting the new track rod ball joint while waiting for rack gaiters to arrive. I had always planned to replace the track rod ends, but they were seized solid so I had to buy new track rods too. I do not know why, but Felicia / Caddy front wheel bearings seem to be my kryptonite. Whenever I try to replace them, however careful I am to follow the correct methodology, I always end-up with the bearing inner race stuck resolutely to the hub, and the outer race similarly in the hub carrier. There were some fraught moments, including a big circlip that should have been secure deciding it was no such thing, but eventually I had new bearings and hubs fitted to freshly machined hub carriers. Before assembling these onto the Caddy I removed the top mounts, which I bolted loosely into place first. I then offered the uprights into position so I could feed the driveshafts through the hubs, and put the top nuts on, at which point the weight of the uprights was supported and I could pop them onto the bottom ball-joints. I will probably replace the top mount bolts with longer bolts fed through from under the top mount plate, so that it is easier to remove the strut brace without having to worry about the top mount being detached at the same time. New track rod ends were fitted, and everything was torqued-up, with a jack under the ball-joint to make sure the damper was properly located in the hub carrier. Both the strut and ball-joint pinch bolts were replaced with new. The brake callipers are now looking a bit shabby in comparison to the shiny new suspension parts. A brakes refurb may be on the agenda shortly. The strut pinch bolt had not been tightened when this photo was taken.

How long have you got? There is an entire subforum on issues (mostly electronics) with the Octy IV, and a subset of issues that may apply relating to any of the other current models as well. To summarise, people have issues with the infotainment, PratNav, and so-called "driver aids" such as "Lane Enforce".

I dare say I'm not the only one to have done the winter wheel fit this weekend - I normally do it at the end of November and it seems to be good timing given the weather... Kumho tyres this time round from 'Blackcircles' after 'My Tyres' failed to deliver the Nokians I ordered - terrible service a few months ago, citing UK customs issues post-Brexit. I always knew they were Germany-based and haven't had a problem previously but now it appears to be just too difficult. And for the summer wheel cleaning, I modded one of my wheel racks (down to one car, one set of winters) into a wheel cleaning rig. A friend of mine is a professional detailer (VII Car care) and has the proper job. I'm too tight to buy one for using twice a year. Makes life much easier - apart from lifting the wheels up onto the workbench, might have to rig up a hoist next year!

Rattle came back and diagnostic found stretched chain this time round. Had it all replaced at my cost £824 after a little negotiation with my dealer who dropped the diagnostic fee, so not too bad but who wants to spend that on a part which should last much longer and was redesigned due to premature failure. SUK were sympathetic but no offer of assistance, car is too old now. Not what should happen on a 2014 car with 57k miles (the rattle started well before this but after the 5 year extended warranty ran out of course) and with a full dealer service history, no wonder they changed to a cam belt! So if you’ve a 2012 onwards 1.2 TSI engine with the redesigned chain (not the newer belt unit) then you are not immune. PS car has so far been rattle free on start up and seems a bit quieter when running.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It doesn't really matter when you read this as the battery and its condition and state of charge is always important especially with modern cars with all the electrical items and systems on them, the car may start and lights seem bright enough but the battery may still be too low for the car's computers and this may cause them to throw wobblies of all sorts - just check out some of the threads here if you find this hard to believe. But at time of writing the days are getting shorter and darker and colder so you will need the car battery to be in good condition and connection and in a good state of charge to get you through without what can be a lot of hassle and inconvenience if you let the battery get too low, or fail altogether. Letting the battery get too low can cause all sorts of problems and some of them unexpected, many people will think that because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough that the battery must be fine and well charged but this might not be the case. Now is a good time to check your battery - that both battery terminal post clamps are tightly secure (and battery securely clamped to the car), that there are no spillages of any sort or mess on the top of the battery and that the battery has a good level of charge in it. You may want to consider a suitable battery charger, not a very fast or booster charger though, to keep your battery well charged and not be caught out with low charge problems and/or your use of the car's electrical items especially when the engine , so alternator, aren't running . This may also perhaps save you being caught out and being one of the very many that need to call out the breakdown services because the battery is flat, the AA number one most common cause of breakdowns - Flat or faulty battery. The AA won't say this but I will, very rarely is it a faulty battery, a few might be charging system faults but the vast majority will be user error, ignorance or neglect. Remember prevention is better than cure - and not have the computer hassles or become an AA statistic. 😉

By my best estimate the last time I was able to remove a non removable piece of plastic and access filler plugs to top up a battery that everybody else would replace because it was sealed for life and would not hold a charge was 1992. I did get really destructive with one some years later, the current non AGM liquid acid type and I totally destroyed it with no way of putting Humpty Dumpty back together again and I did not even come within sniffing distance of any acid. The top plate covering the labrinth overpressure vent matrix is ultrasonically welded. You could leave a battery upside down for a month and it would not spill a drop of fluid or even vent gas unless you were to charge it at double voltage. The case would become horribly distorted through the heat of overcharging like the batteries in my fire alarm panel (voltage regulator failure) but it still would not leak acid.

Spillage? Topping up batteries or even batteries venting fluid is so last century!

Not sure how long the telephone lines can hold out!! Also so many stars visible tonight

Leave it on the car, connect it up as per the manual and you have more chance of things settling down.

Thanks, and thanks also for the nudge which made me realise I have not updated this with the latest progress.

I just meant I was going to stick a new style one on if I could find one of course I eould not go drilling or anything stupid into the airbag lol.

2004 1.2 HTP 6V is definitely going to have burnt valves causing a misfire, stop buying new coil packs and check the compression now.

Yeah I know. I was just joking with him.

There's no reason why it would go off, it's electrically triggered by the airbag module, it's designed NOT to go off under any other circumstances, it's extremely inert, capable of being thrown around and pounded by angry little fists, it will not go off even in a cabin fire or if the car is struck by lightning. Otherwise you'd be reading about random deployments leading to fatal accidents all the time, there are hundreds of millions of them driving around all over the world, more sitting harmlessly in scrapyards or parked up. It Just Isn't Happening

Not so, where's the hotelier to answer this(?). (Scottish?) law says that if you're 16 accompanied by an adult, you can drink beer, wine or cider if you're out eating a meal at a restaurant or other licensed premises. At home or on other private premises it's not illegal for a child aged 5 to 17 to drink alcohol, it is against the law to give alcohol to children under 5. It is better that those parents that want to teach their offspring controlled sensible, responsible social drink habits rather than a 18 year old, or older, starts drinking alcohol legally having no real experience before. It used to be that you might grow up near a local pub where as a youngster you'd have to behave yourself and no getting ****ed and/or getting into fights - unless you lived in a very rough area.

Out of the mk3 and mk4 Octy's ,I think the Mk4 is a way better looking car. Yes I prefer gadgets, but even the L&K model for Mk3 has a load of blank buttons in the centre console, which puts me off... Why have so many blank buttons - even on the top model... Anyway, having read a lot about the issues on Mk4 - ie it's literally "rolling the dice", as another member has already said - then I may steer away from Octy Mk4 - and possibly looking at latest Superb instead - I just need to know how many "real" issues there are for that. Thank you for your responses.

No I mean that the OEM badge on the airbag is attached in such a way as to not embed itself in your face in the event of a crash if the airbag goes off. Anything other than a sticker, as Ryan suggests, is a bad idea.

Looks like this has had a significant redesign inside and out for 2022 as well. Edit... In fact the 2022 model looks significantly better and less 'dowdy' etc. When compared to the original 2017 design basis. The tech in the EV side of things is probably good .. it just needs a better purpose designed platform to put it in to.

Ooooh I do like that gearknob!

Oh I forgot. Had a hand grafted Gearknob made by Builtbybasil.com which arrived yesterday. feels great.

Thought I would update. Still have the MX5, Unfortunately failed the mot this year on Rust. So a plan was made and off it went down to MX5 Mania for some tlc. new chassis rails and side sills, boot lid and wheel arch repairs, then an engine refresh new radiator and cam belt and full service. then if to the body shop for a few panels re spray.

there's more people on this forum from the uk than any other country, so always going to look like the uk is receiving more cars i doubt the % cars received is any higher in the uk than elsewhere delivery times appear to be random or pot luck, unless there are things going on that we dont know about 😀

Just read some of the threads on here re the software issues with the Octy mk iv thatbare still being resolved or remain unresolved... Personally i wouldn't go near an Octy mk iv with a bargepole after reading some of them!

https://www.biggred.co.uk/

@Dubwiser so to clarify, you spec’d an option, included it as part of your finance plan (or however you’ve chosen to pay) but now Skoda are removing the option and not changing the price of the vehicle to suit? Essentially you’re paying for something you aren’t getting? If that’s the case I’d ask them to discount the removed option or provide a couple of servicings, or similar, for free. If they won’t budge I’d pull out of the purchase. Thats pretty poor customer service on their part.

Indeed my brakes are not broken 😂

@Carlston thank you, crawled under this morning, and the car came with 500 511 121 AD unfortunately I do not have any callipers to measure it with. I have listened to the advice given by @Carlston, @vrs'burks and @lard-ajc in this post and (489523-octavia-scout-mk3-rear-suspension) I am not going to raise the suspension but get thicker springs and a helper spring unless anyone can think of a reason not to? as I do not necessarily need to increase the ride height, that said I would be interested in @Carlston your thoughts on fitting equivalent of 511121BE (your post on page 2 of 489523-octavia-scout-mk3-rear-suspension) to not only take more weight but increase ride height slightly. Presumably I would need to change the front ones too? @fabdavrav thank you for the torque settings, I am going to chicken on this, purchase the parts and get a local garage to fit them. While getting the spring part number, I have already put a dent in the under sill with to long a wood support on the trolley jack, huff! Many thanks for everyones help,

I have try it, not so happy as i was with Amsoil synthetic. My first 2 gauges were old style analogic, one for battery voltage and one for water temperature. Later i installed others (once upon a time i had one for exhaust temperature). Those high 'C temperatures were due to a problem of my fan, once with his relay and the second with his motor so i replaced him.

D.FYLAKTOS now you have found the benefit of good oil in the engine you might appreciate more my suggesting good oil in the gearbox transmission. Often it's thought that any old oil will do in the gearbox and that it lasts for years (or decades for some) but the additives and oil do wear and quicker than many realise. Felicia changes may be at 60,000 km. Changing the oil can have a noticeable difference to the gear shifting and will generally help with protection. If the existing oil is very old then possibly a cleaning flush with a cheap standard oil for say 80km might also help. If your gearbox is very worn then a standard 75w-90 would help with the hot weather but if the wear isn't bad then a better 75w-90 would give improvements in use and protection. A hot and long drain will get out more of the old oil and any contaminants in it meaning more new fresh oil goes in with less dilution from the old oil. You can look at the condition of the old oil and any bits in it to help assess the possible condition of the gearbox. Looking on this site I see the capacity is 2.4l which is a bit of a pain as it means if you do a good job of draining you will need three 1 litre bottles but at least this means you have some for top ups if required or to pour some warmed at the end of the draining as a mini flush. You also need to allow for new sealing washer(s). If your gearbox is in reasonably good condition then as you know Motul their Gear 300 75W-90 would be a very good priced top level oil, do no worry about the fact it has racing use that just means it is hard wearing, and it might quieten your gearbox a bit which you would like. -https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/GEAR_300_75W-90_en_FR_motul_34200_20211021.pdf There are others, but as one alternative Millers TRX Synth 75w90 . - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/TRX-Synth-75w90.pdf

I too was hesitant the first time for but updated twice and been fine

I have a spare wheel and airbag was going to do it on that if I could find a new style one to fit as you say would not mess with the one on the car dont fancy that going off.

Congratulations on the baby first and completely agree with your sentiments on the Superb. Superb by name and all that goes with it. Cheers.

Many thanks. Torsion beam, so the job is just the same as my previous Fabia MK3 Combi.

Aren't you only 17 and therefore too young to drink? 😛

215/60R16 is the normal size for 16" Karoq tyres.

Right back atcha 👋🏻

They are getting through the backlog, but the order in which they are doing so seems random based on a lucky dip of spec and colour.

The solution was to reset Smartlink to factory settings and the Apple CarPlay logo was then added to the Smartlink screen (between the Android Auto and Mirrorlink logos). Connecting the iPhone using USB cable then automatically initiated CarPlay connection.

Oh dear, the Octavia Mk4. Yet more evidence of lack of any proper testing of software and pointing to inexperienced or inappropriate software developers being used, possibly working from a poorly designed written specification with no car to test it on. Possibly a cheap subcontractor in a distant country. Sync should lock dual/tri zone temperature control to the drivers side control and be "sticky" (remembered until cancelled by pressing sync again or using a passenger control ). Works correctly in my 2018 mk3 superb (mib2.5) as does everything else.

Make sure the calipers arent sticky from lack of use I know this as I recently got involved with a V6 TT that had been abandoned outside behind a garage for 3 years ! Only reason was the tax is €1800+ A friend is restoring her and the calipers were basically junk so he done the decent thing and used them as exchange for a refurbished set - You want to see the timing belt but thats off topic !!

Washed the car today. Happy with the result.

Yes, using it now for like 5 months. no issues so far.

I think you have to switch off "Lane Enforce" completely, before every journey.

@j caff it's definitely a change in driving style needed to get the most from it. Stuff like turning off the AC, coasting, etc. Or just plug it in drive it and enjoy. It's not the same as a TDI or a TSI. It's a phev that needs a different style of driving.

Can't agree, rews are changing, what means there is small load

Just to repeat from the AE Tyres thread - beware that the specified noise ratings are those measured outside the car rather than inside. The tyre quietest outside doesn't necassarily mean it's the quietest inside. Not many reviews measure or comment on noise inside. Tyre Reviews was an exception last year, also looking at noise on smooth roads + rough surfaces (latter typically 10dB higher inside the car - that's 10x the Acoustic energy, but the way the ear works, that is perceived by humans as being about twice as loud. Sadly this year they could only do outside measurements + only on smooth roads. However internal comparisons do depend on how the tyre interacts with the car structure, bushes etc. & so even they can only be a partial indicationon a car different to the one tested. not sure about how much difference tyre size makes inside. Typically a lower profile tyre reacts louder to ridges/broken road suraces, but varies beteewn makers and even their own products. As an aside, I did see something recently about the wheels proposed for the Dyson EV that was being developed, but found to be too costly to make. They were proposing massive 25" diameter wheels, as they believed they rode better over poor roads - they did look to have very low profile tyres as well. However, I'm not yet ready to take what they say at face value.

Fortunately for me, when the 1.8T engine was fitted to the Felicia, the previous owner had realised that a tall engine squeezed beneath a low bonnet leaves the sump vulnerable, especially if the ride height is less than generous. To mitigate against catastrophic damage he had fitted an African spec shallow sump with a steel pan. This had taken a couple of fairly substantial clouts in the Caddy, and was looking very much worse for wear. I could not find a genuine replacement, but the pattern part I found looks like a decent copy. The tapped holes for the bolts that attach the steel pan to the alloy upper part are shallower on the pattern part, but apart from that it even looks like it could be made using the same tooling as the genuine part. The sump plug supplied did not look great, but I had an ECS magnetic sump plug which I fitted instead. With the Caddy up on the scissor lift, swapping the sump was easier than I expected. Hopefully I can keep this one away from the tarmac. Despite the old sump looking to be in a sorry state, when I tested it after I took it off it still appeared to be oil tight. A standard all-alloy sump would certainly not have survived to that extent.