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My mid June 2021 order for a Kodiaq SEL 2.0 DSG has now arrived at my dealer. Delivery next week I've been told. It took approx 1 week to get through UK customs. Hopefully others on this thread are starting to get good news too.

It's VERY hard in these times to schedule anything. You obviously haven't tried to run a business during a pandemic. Why WE hate them... We or rather folk like yourself hate them because that's all you people come here to write about. I've hardly ever seen anyone posting "Booked my car in for service, service done as requested, totally happy with dealership". People only ever post bad news stories. They've told you you can have the car serviced whilst you wait ( as my local dealer does - I suspect most work like that ) or you can book the car in and leave it with them. They've told you the additional work you requested on that day isn't possible. So what's your problem? What in the hells name has this dealer done wrong? Just book the car in on a day when the correct person is available to look at it and have the two jobs done at once. You don't want to make two journeys? So we can expect another posting from you telling everyone Henry's are crap because they don't carry a replacement wiper part in stock thus you had to make a return visit to the dealership? Just to even up the balance ( because people only ever come here to moan about dealers ), I've had dealings with Henry's servce before and I thought they were most helpful - I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. Never bought a car from them ( bought an Audi from Lomond who were located there before them ) but I've sold them a car. It's rare for me to ever praise sales folk but felt the guy I dealt with was as trustworthy as anyone else. If their price had been right, I'd have no hesitation buying a car off them either. They're one of the better dealerships I've visited.

Highly unlikely that a genuine NGK ignition coil is made in Japan, most likely South Africa or France https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NGK Bosch parts are often just rebranded items so could even be an NGK manufactured part. Or made anywhere in the world from Germany through most of Europe and yes...China. I returned Bosch discs when the box said made in China https://dslidingdoors.blogspot.com/2020/04/bosch-ignition-coil-made-in-slovenia.html?m=1 Choose a reputable supplier like Opieoils or even Eurocarparts, theres a lot of fake aito stuff out there on ebay and amazon etc.

Last night's moon and stars........

Hello Briskodians, I would like to offer a repair service for some types of electric window motor module as fitted to a few Skoda models, as well as one or two VWs. At this stage it applies only to two specific, exact part numbers fitted to the driver's side front door, as follows: 6Y2959802 Fitted to later Mk1 Fabia, from around October 2004. 6Y1959801 Fitted to Very early Mk2 Fabia and Roomster until end of October 2007; as well as 9N3 Polo and a few Transporters. (And some late 9N Polos I have learned). Private Message me a VIN if you'd like me to check whether your car has this part number fitted. (As described a few posts below, either of the above part numbers + suffix A on the end can also be repaired. Also happy to try with units of the subsequent generation, with part numbers 6Q1959801F, G, H, or J.) Note that both of these are driver's side units, the difference in part numbering is due to the orientation/positioning of the motor module on the panels they mount to. These parts suffer a type of intermittent, progressive failure where they 'sometimes work fine, sometimes don't work at all'. Eventually they just completely stop working. This is what I can fix for you. I will test your faulty unit, confirm the problem, repair it to full working order and post it back to you for £59, total. You'd post it to me - less than 1Kg so can be sent for around £4.25 on a tracked24 service purchased online at Royal Mail. I would aim to turn it round within 2 days of receipt, and send it back tracked24. This is the what the part looks like: Central locking via remote will still work in the absence of the window module, so you will be able to secure the car as normal while it is away. Obviously you'll want to ensure that both front windows are fully shut, as in the absence of the driver's side module the passenger side one will not operate. New units are no longer available from Skoda/VW, and ebay 2nd hand ones with these part numbers tend to go for big bucks. I will charge you just £59 including return postage. Cheers, Pete Edit 30/08/25: To get in touch, please click on my username which will take you to my profile, with contact info.

Hello! I'm new here. I made the account just to give a little hope to those who are still waiting. I visited this forum every day while waiting and got a lot of information and a little hope. My own waiting period was 5 months and now I have been the owner of a škoda for 1.5 weeks. I know how difficult it is to wait, especially when there is no car to move on a daily basis. This is exactly what happened to me. I sold my old car in August 2021, not knowing that there is a shortage of cars. I ordered my Scala on August 13th and the car was to arrive by November of course this did not happen. The first few months were in complete silence, in late october I got the first update. The update was such that there was no update, not even a production week. At the end of November, the initial production week appeared, but nothing definite. December passed in silence. On the third of January I received a call that the car was finally here. I received it on January 12. my order : Scala Ambition 1.0 TSI 81kW DSG - steel gray Extras: -Net partition between luggage compartment and passenger compartment for my dog -Heated windscreen - Parking sensors at the rear -Wireless SmartLink for Apple CarPlay: -Black 16 "light alloy wheels HOEDUS AERO, tires 205/55 R16 -Automatic dual-zone air conditioning" CLIMATRONIC " - Luggage compartment mat rubber -Safety package, rubber mats, vehicle -winter tires Hopefully you get yours soon!

Must cost a fortune in fuel (to run the car all the time). No sleeping for you? 😁

Pirates don't be too bothered about latest updates, eh.

In my experience, when the DPF is that blocked it needs to be removed and cleaned. VTECH DPF cleaner has worked well for me in the past. https://garagewire.co.uk/news/game-changing-dpf-cleaner-is-a-profitable-solution/ My DPF does a regen once it reaches around 22g, I think the threshold for the DPF light is 30g, anything north of 45g is replace the filter (based on EA228 Diesel), so worth checking the specs for yours.

Sounds like the dpf will need to be either taken off and cleaned properly or replaced. I would personally go with having it cleaned and the dpf level reset. You could start driving in lower gears and using the engine a bit harder to help it clear out a bit.

Something wrong with the Dealership staff. They are driving nice Demonstrators and Skoda UK owned vehicles this weekend. Skoda Assist can get a Hire Car to you before the day is out. Call them.

There's nothing wrong with Delphi stuff, they're an OEM just like Bosch. You're paying extra for the quality control, unbranded stuff may well come from exactly the same Chinese factory but it's usually failed QA checks and doesn't make the grade for an OE supplier. This quaint notion that there's hundreds of factories making exactly the same part is simply not true, there are a few big players and the parts are graded and may use different specs internally, with ignition coils the money can be saved on the copper wire so weight is a good indicator, if you could weigh all the different specs you'd find a direct correlation with price.

@ords I went down the garage with my torch and checked it out straight away. No 'mit Silikat' on it at all. Just the G13 for refilling. Phew!

The Ford should be plugged in on one of the AC chargers. But many people don't even carry cable with them, this is the dealer's failure to educate during delivery. Not surprising from Ford dealer TBH. The huge number of AC chargers is great to see at park+ride.

The social introduction "I'm a van banker" has its problems, too ...

Agreed - the overwhelming majority of photos I post on here are taken with my phone. I did have DSLR's previously, but now make do with a Lumix FZ1000 / TZ70, when a bit of zoom is called for. I can't remember who originally said it, but the best camera is the one you have with you

It depends on how you define on line banking. I define it as using a browser to access the bank on line . You can do this on any device capable of going on line( PC/laptop/tablet). It's simple. On browser log onto www.BANK.co,uk ( where BANK is on line address e.g. natwest etc) , then on bank site, "log in " with your own personal customer number( usually DOB + a unique number supplied by bank), then answer security questions. After that bank will send you a SMS with a pass code to the phone number they hold for you. Enter that on line and all is well. You are in. Or alternatively ( and I recommend using a 10" tablet,as it's a lot easier than anything smaller), find the bank app for the bank . Install and follow instructions. But the app method is more restrictive than logging on. Any help.

It’s not always about the best camera. More so about some fundamental technical knowledge and some basic composition rules imo. I prefer the challenge of getting a good shot out of my iPhone than picking up my R5 and taking mediocre shots with ease. The last couple posted here were iPhone shots. I was going to submit the sunset shot into a local competition with a theme of sky and clouds and see how it does.

I'm reusing my Nextbase 512 dashcam. I bought 1 metre usb-c to mini-usb, as I did not like the fit of the 90-degree cable. I got this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079L5YFJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1, wrapped it around the rearview mirror mount and you can't see it at all.

Pete's service is highly recommended! Our 2007 Roomster suffered from intermittent windows for approx. 2 years. Dealers could not find the problem. It's not easy to diagnose the faulty Drivers side motor as defective door-looms and switches may show similar symptoms. Problem was, the 'dead' windows would work if both sides are disconnected, left a while and re-connected. Then they work until the ignition is switched off for a period of time. After that, they are 'dead' again. If window-switches and door-looms are confirmed OK (and they are cheap + easy to change) then the drivers side motorcontrol-module almost certainly needs repair. As Pete says, other VW group vehicles from this period, e.g. Polo, Transporter use the same motors and are similarly affected. I sent the suspect motor to Pete who immediately confirmed it was defective, did the repair work and put it on test. Within days I had the repaired motor back in place, both window functions restored immediately (just needing to reset the 'one-touch' function). Congratulations to Pete who persevered to research and resolve this common fault, making a repair economically effective (other option is a replacement motor, around the eyewatering £200, only from Skoda / VAG dealers). The great bonus is that a perfectly good motor unit does not need to be thrown away because of a repairable module fault. Well done Pete. Highly recommended, and a very knowledgeable and valuable member of the Skoda community.

Got in my car today front windscreen had condensation on, started the car had aircon on waited and waited and waited, didn’t even touch it. So I had to resort to my trusty sleeve as I got annoyed. Whilst driving I remembered my old Passat the aircon didn’t work at temperatures less than 5oC or something like that, is that the same as the Superb? Outside read 3oC, when I arrived at my location I asked my wife to stand by the engine and listen for a click (usual aircon engaging sound) couldn’t hear a thing. I also didn’t notice the revs changing. So either it doesn’t operate at low temperatures like my old Passat or my aircon has randomly decided to die

Windoze "updates" have been a PITA since at least Windoze NT/4, and possibly earlier.

New to this, hope to get some useful information.

Much cheapness buying food at my favourite Scotmid and just the £7.44 for the electric.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/490693-e-10-fuels

Batmobile Black with green and purple lighting inside. To the bat cave (or Wetherspoons), which ever is closest!

Doubt it, I have the aircon on 24/7/365 and the oil temperature would always get to around 90+ Celsius .

So to be clear, you could have the service done as while you wait. It is the warranty work they want all day for Slightly misleading thread title as it implies your problem is just with the service, nothing in title about the warranty work you are trying to get done at same time

Can't say i'm 100% on it it's just what I've read on here from others. I went as far as buying the camera and running the cable from front to back in the car then I read that it won't work unless you have the VOICE button so didn't go any further. All the pictures i've seen of working cameras in this forum all have the VOICE button. I'll try and find out where I read it and why it won't work, but I suspect it was from Sasha who's a bit of an expert on these things :). Edit: found the thread

@Kachaka Was it the indicated Oil Temperature between 85-90 and now 70-75? Strange that the Oil never went higher than 90*oC. I would have expected the Coolant to stick around that indicated temp but the Oil to get hotter in warmer weather and at higher speeds.

Yes I did wonder, the genuine was actually for Japan rather than counterfeit, I know Bosch is often just a label but there are so many changes and take overs in manufacturing and sub-contracts to sub-contracting that until the item turns up you don't know where it's made and then who knows what "Made in ..." actually means, they might even be just referring to the box. 😄 You certainly can not go on old brand names as the name might be used/owned by two or more companies, like Lucas. I was about to put if I peeled off a Bosch label to find Delphi I'd be happier.

Great video Kharl - Absolutely beautiful place - The weather ... I'm so jealous ...! I said it before we all need to come visit you

So, this arrived yesterday... Probably going to fire a couple of head units from the stash up for sale. 20220121_094227.mp4

I have always used ordinary unleaded in our otherr (non Skoda) car and the computer mpg reading certainly hasn't dropped. You can never drive the same way in identical conditions on two consecutive tanks of fuel, and consumtion will be worse in cold weather than warm (assuming you don't use aircon). Also, see this with regards to Esso 99 Octane fuel. From the Esso Synergy website. Ii appears that Synergy 99 is not necessarily ethanol free, it depends on where you get it. 'Our Synergy Supreme+ 99 petrol has more cleaning power than our regular petrol – and includes molecules whose job it is to reduce the friction in your engine helping the moving parts work more efficiently.* Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). Legislation requires us to place these E5 labels on pumps that dispense unleaded petrol with ‘up to 5% ethanol’, including those that contain no ethanol, which is why we display them on our Synergy Supreme+ 99 pumps. There’s currently no requirement for renewable fuel, like ethanol, to be present in super unleaded petrol although this could change in the future, in which case we would comply with any new legislation.'

Well by the looks of the photo you shared to the local facebook group, it seems that you've hit the car at a 45deg angle if the only damage was to your headlights and the front of your fender. So there's not much chance that the emegency braking would've worked 100% as intended.

Yes, that is me.

Nice video, I like the music too Are you the guy with the beard?

AKA "Macaroni"

I had one in my 2.0tsi. I went to remove it, but it's been done by a garage already. My concern now is, if I have G13, do I need to drain a bit and plop a bit of fresh G13 in, to top up the silicates? Can you just change the whole lot to G12, are G13 and G12 compatible, as I wouldn't get all the G13 out.

I never bothered with touching the foam, indents fine by itself. Still going strong on mine after all this time. Thanks for the shout out, glad it helped 😀

A few more from this afternoon........

Could always join the darkside and put a cheap pair of led spots in for high beams

Perfection!!! How it should be. Looks great against the red callipers too

Oil pressure warning is a red light not amber, I think. Oil level warning can be an amber light, check the wiring and connections to the level/temperature sensor in the sump. I assume the level is not low?

Visited Attenborough Nature Reserve this afternoon ............

Has the melting compromised any of the smaller wires, or just the fuse end of the thick one? If just that, I'd be tempted to get a replacement made just for that. 25mm² conductor area cable, not much longer than the original, and I suspect a 6mm ring crimp at fuse end, 8mm at alt end (**check these**). Needs a good/appropriate crimp tool, so probably better to get one made for you at a good motor factors or via ebay (e.g. 170 Amp 25mm² Battery Power Cable Starter Earth Custom Made Car Auto Connection | eBay). Can just disconnect and tie off the original at both ends, and strap the new wire to the old loom with tyraps. New whole loom may be unavailable or expensive; 2nd-hand may be degraded. There's probably a part number on a label on the loom somewhere? If not you could work it out from here, by finding out your engine code (see right hand highlighted column) and reading off the appropriate part number in the other highlighted column.

I use my smartphone for online banking with Nationwide since that's what they set it up for me back when I opened the account. As such, I've never accessed it anywhere else. I looked at a Windows XP alternative for my 2006 Dell Latitude D400 and opted to try out Lubuntu Linux - which is a Lite Ubuntu type operating system. Ran miles better, even with what's now considered as paltry specifications. I may give Lubuntu (or equivalent) a shot on one of my older laptops at some point. I've had a sub-par experience with Windows 10 overall. I found 7 to be less buggy in comparison. My hardware has obviously changed which has meant that I can't give a clear comparison. Hope that helps.

If anyone is being put off the idea of using this service due to the 'downtime' or inconvenience of having to visit the car twice, once to remove the module, once a few days later to refit the repaired original, I may be able to offer a slightly different arrangement. An exchange system where part of the price is refundable on receipt of your original. You let me know you need a replacement/repair job, either by posting in this thread or private message. Include full car details (year/model/number of electric windows) please. If I have a repaired and fully functional unit suitable for your car, I'll let you know. The initial price will be higher than for a repair, but there will be a proportion of the price that will be refundable once I receive your original, non-working motor module in return. It will have to be that exact module (the original your car was built with), so I know which car it suits. You would pay up front, receive a working motor module in the post from me a couple of days later, swap that into your car and send me the original in the post. This way you can get in behind the door-card just the once, to remove original and fit replacement. £119 for this variant, with £60 of that as a refund to be returned to you once I have your original in hand. So final cost to you will be £59 plus your postage cost for the return. I think the added convenience of this for you, my customer, may be attractive? If I have your unit type available, it'll be already packaged ready to post, so I should be able to post it out the day you message me if it's before about 4pm and we can sort payment out promptly (mouse over my username on the left to get a pop-up including 'Message' option) .

Thanks guy's for all the suggestions. I eventually used the cable recommended by Mark Miscock https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M4CQHZ but in conjunction with the left angle cable from this set https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072B821VV I simply used a piece of heatshrink over the connector to prevent them coming apart and then hid it under the headliner. I'll upload a few pictures when I get home but it looks very tidy and professional looking. My only concern is that the battery life in the Nextbase is cr@p and I doubt it would last a night in standby mode. Anyway, many thanks again to everyone especially Mark Hiscock. John

Still a great car