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After a couple of setbacks yesterday; had one temperature check that was in the 38’s and I actually blacked out as my blood pressure dropped through the floor, I’ve woken this morning to my chest drain no longer bubbling 👏 Breathing is much easier too. It’s hoped that the chest drains can now come out, which will make me much more comfortable. Winner. Thanks for all the message of support and banter…. I’ve always believed in a PMA, but even though Zee has now been through this with me twice before she’s blown away with how I’ve been Much love, awesome Brisky people 🤘

Thanks mate. even one of the consultants has mentioned that I’m always smiling when he comes to see me! So, the chest drains were removed earlier today, along with almost everything else. Just have one line in my neck that will be coming out tomorrow I feel like a new man now and am able to breath probably about 80% normal. I’m now mobile and been for a walk around the ward and should be leaving the high dependency ward tomorrow. I’m doing so well that so long as there are not set-backs (touching wood as I write this!) I might be heading home this coming Wednesday

Called my dealer today for an update and he said realistically he couldn’t give me a time frame anymore. I order started of this year and since I seen people getting a 2023 date for a car they ordered in 2021 I just gave up. Been to Audi this morning got a brand new A4 Avant for the price of the skoda so that’s me done with skoda. I hope you all get your cars in a decent time frame but I’m not holding out my hope for you.

A 2 seater convertible that's Not an MX5 😄 Thought it was time to bring it out of hibernation.... Been in the garage since Sept '19 due to you know what. New battery required but managed to use an older bigger one temporarily to start it. Purchased late 2006 after OH spotted it on Gran Turismo 1....can I buy that in UK? Apparently she could 😁 Kei class car so very small length and width wise. 660cc 3 cyl 64bhp and revs like crazy, ECU rev limiter chipped so 10k rpm if you're feeling no mechanical sympathy 😳 Geared for 130kph max regardless of power. Had a repaint 6-7 yrs ago along with a few other bits, I'll add at a later date along with some pics for scale compared to newer cars We've had 2 Road trips to Southern Spain, Le Mans/Classic 4-5 times and with a 25l tank plenty of stops every 2 hrs or so Funky interior as standard.. And a massive boot 😂 Any Q's just fire away

Nothing to mine but gave a friend's a deep clean and fitted a Maxton spoiler.

Summer tyres back on. And you can almost see the lake again! (I drove over this about 6 months ago - it was an ice road). This is also why you won't get any pics of the light bar working for a while yet, as it doesn't really get dark now and won't for another couple of months....

all about the same time yes. Cappos are like MX5's....rust from the inside AZ1's are like Hens teeth, there was only 2, maybe 3 ? in the UK 9-10 yrs ago, lots of pennies even then. this was one of them, owner had a crazy idea of a bike engine in there, went to Z Cars, who went bump, car got moved and im not sure Don ever got it back?

Well I'm still looking forward to going through airport security with my new hip joint and associated scaffolding, but I reckon you've knocked my fun into a cocked hat. Can just see the airport security faces when they realise you're ticking https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/6c7bebdd-6c69-4fce-9df1-a5ff068c21e2#WlQ8pwii.copy Gaz

Your location is showing as Sweden so i cant speak for legalities over there. In the UK damage like that would not be illegal - as long as there are no cords or bulges showing. Regarding safety - The rubber around the side wall and shoulder is much thicker for this very reason, but it also has reduced the rubber thickness in that area by a large amount, personally I would be getting it replaced. Regarding repair - This could be repaired BUT it is not a cost effective repair for a passenger car tyre, a repair like this falls into the EU standard of a major repair and will cost over £100 to repair - this is why its generally reserved for specialist tyres that cost a lot of money. So although technically repairable, it is not a minor repair such as a 6mm or 8mm mushroom plug from a puncture. Long and short of it: Replace the tyre

NO!! A cut like you illustrate will have taken all the strength out of the tyre sidewall, and I doubt it is either legal or safe to use ever again.

Even I would say no to that one and I must be amongst the most reckless when it comes to overloading tyres. The plys may be damaged inside and even though it is not bulging at present they have lost the support of the rubber on the outside. If I were to do it I certainly would not remove the piece and leave an obvious visible filled area, the better to glue it back in place but still very bad.

You could. But do not risk it for you, your loved ones and innocent people around and about if you have that tyre give up the ghost, maybe at speed.

new slimer, thats why you bought it

Been absent for a bit and sadly this part of the forum seems to have gone into hibernation too 😴 I was bike shopping for a good few months leaning towards a new / ex demo GSX S1000, also a great priced Katana at a Suzuki dealers tempting me (but too far removed from the GSX S1000 in spec tbh. Then randomly picked up a wee 2013 ER-6F bit of a garage find with 845 miles on it and never been MOT'd, but had been in use the last 2 years very occasionally (under weird MOT exemption rules that pre-dated COVID in NI). Hired a van and got up to see it a few weeks ago and took it home, ordered bits n bobs booked the next MOT at my local test centre, 5 months wait, but checked constantly for cancellation slots nationwide and travelled for one within the week it was on the road all. Service stuff didn't arrive until 45 minutes after I got back from MOT and a new exhaust system too so did those bits there and then. Not entirely sure what I've bought it for, other than it was a steal and pretty much a new bike. Be a good long termer / commuting hack / poor weather warrior. Nice enough sound from it with the new exhaust on, fun enough for what it is and by far the least powerful bike I've ever owned, quite surprised at how nippy it is. Bits it had: R&G crash bungs Yoshi rear bobbins HyperPro progressive rear spring (not fitted the way round I'd have done it, may ditch it tbh) DATA Tag Additional front lowering saddle Bits I've added: Tail tidy New flat aluminium MOT plate Oxford LED sweeping indicators GR Moto titanium exhaust with carbon tip (mid priced but pretty bang tidy quality for price) Genuine tank knee pads Genuine rim decals (never bothered with them on any of my old bikes, didn't realise until it was too late, but will do as is now) Have 3 flamin screens for it, dark tint DB (too dark on black nose, so ordered the light tint DB and they sent a light tint standard screen... ongoing nightmare General service Bike and chain it's first ever proper clean When I took it out with new exhaust on CCTV caught the sound a bit, can hear it right at end of clip when I am some distance away on the main road, think baffles will need to stay in lol

Good on yer jars ,stay positive feller ,fingers and toes crossed for ya 👍👍

Point taken guys. I'll get a new one ASAP. Thanks for the input

Evening, I just had my 50k service, car is running perfectly, sparks looked normal for their age, replaced with VW ones same as the oil filter. Perfect service history from day one. Having done the research I am going to leave my tensioner alone for now, my car is the standard 200bhp, seems the VRS has the most issues. If I get a hint of a metallic sound on start up then I will reconsider. I am pleased you will have the peace of mind with yours.

Oh ya ****ing dancer that is nice! Aye same, funnily enough. Saw it at a show in Muirkirk c.2016. See below:

I find it very tedious when these spats are in open forum as it really doesn't make for good reading. I would hope that the original 'protagonists' are able to continue with meaningful contributions and without any further issues starting (or the present ones continuing). Hopefully my polite request doesn't go unheeded! 🥊

i havnt seen a del sol in the metal in years!! the beat is a funky little thimg, and being bright yellow is exactly right for it. it couldnt be "anthracite" or "meteor grey". Dragon Green yeah

You are handling it really well, I am in full admiration as I know I would not be as brave. It's very true that a PMA makes a big difference and it's brilliant that you have that attitude

Things are coming together now, new AMC cylinder head arrived this week.

Whatever you do don't replace the rearmost, single one with anything other than the correct bolt. There's very little clearance above the captive nut on the subframe before you get to the steering rack. Even a 4mm longer bolt than the correct 61mm one will write off the steering rack by denting the cylinder.

Just went on a slightly longer drive to a ECP (open on Sunday ) to pick up a normfest AC “cleaner” as I’ve got that tropical zoo smell when I first start the car Ordered a Mann Fprecious Plus pollen filter as I don’t think it’s been changing in a while and should stop more of the smell and help with allergies (allegedly) Put in £110 worth of normal diesel 💔 Not sure if anyone’s seen my other thread but recently put on Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6, so much quieter than the P7’s even doing 80mph (I’m told)

Welcome. Would a 1.4 TSI Kodiaq not be worth considering if available where you are? ? Where is that, is it in the UK.

You are making the same mistake again and again. You are not the exponent of the rest of the forum members. You don't know what everybody thinks, so you are creating statistics out of thin air, based only on your hatred and envy. Rest assured, I know exactly where my value stands, and I don't need any confirmation from you. Moreover, I have a life full of accomplishments outside this forum, and I am neither desperate after recognition, nor paranoid if something insignificant happened to my "trusty" car. What you are saying negative about me are in fact projections of your own insecurity and feeble ego. It is very easy to see that you are obsessed with being the first and most active member in this section. You crave for having a high number of replies. Sadly, it is not the quantity of replies that counts, but the quality. Having hundreds of replies on the same topic in a never ending ping pong with the same member is hilarious. The longer a topic about one technical issue, the lower the value of the topic is because that shows that no common solution was found. Efficiency is zero at the expense of pure amateurism. Try to exercise more modesty and don't give up on anger management classes. Being loud and vulgar does not make you a man. Enjoy.

The door wiring patch kit arrived during last week (the courier was inexplicably slow). It looks like it is very well thought out and should be easy to use: … I’ll get round to fitting this soon - although there seems to be no imperative at the mo, the single wire fix I carried out previously is working well. Alan

So the newest update about delivery…it’s on its way 🤍 sometimes next week it should arrive approximately 4 days they need to prepare it and I’m expecting to drive it somewhere between 16th and 20th may. After 10 months of waiting and all extras included.

Nice people but really short on Skoda knowledge, even trying to buy a skoda from them is a challenge

You need to pry the plastic ends of the door latches to expose the locks, other then those i dont think there are any other applications to the key, so door lock, airbag, and child lock..

The end cap on the drivers door will pop off to reveal a normal key slot

As you can tell, I’m now out the other side The operation didn’t exactly go to plan as I’ve woken up ticking like a clock because I now have a mechanical valve. Not ideal, but I’m alive! A couple of issues to work through, but so far so good. Gonna mean I have to give up football and snowboarding and be very mindful where I put my body. Still in ICU but only because there are no beds in the high dependency ward. When they told me this it was a massive weight off my shoulders. Already managed to get out of bed and a bit of walking on the spot, but breathing hurts and currently bleeding my chest of air!

Welcome mate. Your experience is quite similar to mine, ordered beginning of August 21, wait time supposedly 5-7 months, got VIN last month, car built, waiting door panels (supposedly, who knows 🤷‍♀️), currently still scheduled for week 20 (just around the corner). But preparing myself for push backs to follow, just as some of you are already experiencing.

Thanks for such a detailed update. Much appreciated. May your car arrive soon. BRS

Owatrol is a fantastic rust inhibitor that kind of looks like engine oil (be it in cans or aerosol) and sets to a kind of resin. I've used on suspension components including spring cups etc, inside wings (inner/outer), on steel sumps, body seams that are just starting to pick up rust. It is possible to paint over, it's also possible to add it to paint! I've used Waxoyl in the past but I've found if on external surfaces it washes off. Internally within sections I also had issues as it didn't really soak in to rust but kind of sat on top - angle ground out some sections cut out to repair with evidence of blobs of Waxoyl plopped on top of laminated rust. I had much more success mixing it with clean engine oil - and spraying into sections - saw a car recently that I'd restored in about 1988. Rust proofing still performing well. These days as well as Owatrol I'm a fan of Dinitrol within chassis/sections/sills/ door/boot/bonnet bottoms etc. Two Owatrol examples - photo's just taken! I painted Owatrol on Mrs BJ's 2006 Panda sump that was steel and starting to badly rust about 5 years ago - It's held it ever since. ok. I rescued a present Mrs BJ had got from a friend many moons ago (possibly a decade) that had awful surface rust after it's first night outside. A clean and literally a wipe over with Owatrol has preserved it (more or less) since

I'll preface this by saying its software (box or map) and you need to trust the software developer if you're going to use it. That means a good reputation, long time in the market, large user base and probably don't be the first to use a new revision. Something like a JB4 works by sitting in between the ECU and sensor. Its allowing the user to manage boost pressure and fueling only. The ECU is in control so its using factory parameters. The JB4 doesn't send out of bounds information to the ECU, rather it sends altered information to the ECU. For example if the boost limit it 28lbs and you want 5lbs more than standard (Map 3) the JB4 tells the ECU that the boost is less than 28 lbs so it keeps boosting until the JB4 sees 33lbs at the sensor. Because of that the JB4 uses the factory safety systems. If it detects knock from the factory system, for example, it drops into a pass through mode and allows the ECU to have total control without alteration by the JB4. I'm sure you could go full retard but it is some what idiot proof. But like most software you need to understand how to use it to get the most out of it. No, its not traceable. That's just what map sellers say to push people towards buying a map. The ECU only ever sees factory levels or below. That's how it works. Only the JB4 sees the data from the sensor so it can't be recorded by the ECU. That said the JB4 is for "stage 1" maybe "2". Its for a TIP and light upgrades. Why would you pay extra for a map at that level when it doesn't have the versatility of the JB4, affects your warranty and it doesn't out perform the JB4? And when your ready to go to stage 3 tune you can uninstall the JB4 and sell it on ebay and get most of your money back. Its a performance and financial no brainer. Below is a group of dudes taking their cars to a group dyno session as dudes do. Maybe on a different day you get different results but the JB4 is at least comparable. Burger Motorsports JB4 Performance Tune VW / Audi / Skoda – AutoInstruct If your going more than stage 1 and a bit then you can't use a JB4. So changing the turbos or changing the exhaust for a fully sic downpipe with a marginal cat (or no cat) in the wrong position isn't going to work with a JB4. For that you need a "map" so you can go outside the factory parameters without the ECU complaining. Personally I'm skeptical of the whole tuning scene. If I go to an accountant, a doctor, a mechanic I pay them their rate and they use their expertise to do the best for me. Thats not the case with "tuners", they are basically retailers trying to sell as much brand X as possible. The marketing is full of vague claims and light on any testable data on purpose. My favorite claim from APR for their intercooler is "Designed by engineers with lasers". Impressive. Do they mean... like in Star Wars? Pew Pew. I'll probably get a tune at some point.

Although the rear springs are only weight range 4, they will be new and therefore not broken and not sagging from age and use. See how you get on with them, as not everyone needs harder rear springs. The problem with rear springs, is that it's always going to be a compromise depending on what load you are carrying. Harder rear springs work better with heavier loads, and softer rear springs work better with lighter loads.

Thought about it. Tried a couple of tyre/suspension places and one is doing it Thursday for 347 euros, so a good saving on 500. They will still only fit the BH suffix, would not fit the stronger spring. I believe he said they they not allowed to fit 'modified' parts. Anyway leaving it at that. I will email the VW dealer and cancel. Fats

Got some larger spotlamps to replace the 3 inch ones I had before. These ones are 5 inch. Much larger than the old ones naturally enough and it didn't take me long to wire them in. Old ones were decent, but these ones are even better, far more light cast out, reaches more distance and spreads better. I had expected these to come a lot earlier, but it was a good "small" project to keep me busy as I've been too busy to get out to work on the mk1. My RARB was on the old axle still so I wanted to paint it while it was off the car, got it sanded down, painted and ready to go and then as I said above, got too busy to go out and fit the thing until this evening. Its purely cosmetic, but still very poor job on the powdercoat this came with (bought it brand new from whiteline) Ground all back Primed, then High Build primed. Then was painted to match the calipers and finally fitted this evening. Some rust on the shell, and marks on the axle from fitting that need looking to, but not enough time this evening. Worth noting that I soaked the hardware in a vinegar bath to knock off any rust on them. Which worked very well. These got a coat of hammerite before going on the car. I'm glad to have it back on the car, immediately noticed the difference

I stumbled across this interesting video which shows that sometimes you can catch a cold when you opt for what is perceived to be a premium replacement for a faulty sensor, I wonder how many times people fallen into this kind of trap?

Axle is officially done. Mechanic had a lot of trouble fitting it, both the discs were rubbing on the carriers and the pads I had were too thick and the caliper would not go back far enough to take them. Very luckily I didn't get rid of the discs and pads I got with them, as they were the only ones that would work. Got quite dirty so needed a deep wash when I got it home. No clue how it got rust water over the top of it, certainly a new one for me. Sprayed it down with iron remover to get as much of it off as I could before touching it. Had to do 2 even 3 passes in some areas, and it seems to have etched into the roof slightly. It'll polish out easy but I'll do that another time. Anyhow, some before and afters: Currently I don't have my rarb on as its on the old axle which I still need to pick up. You'd know it was off, I think i'll sand it back down and paint it before it goes back on. I know its only cosmetic but its still shocking how quickly that rarb started to rust. New polybushes are absolutely perfect so far. Car rides fine, no more harsh than it was before. Haven't driven the car much so the rear discs havent had the chance to clean off 100%. What I can say so far is that the handbrake is fantastic compared to the drums. Brakes feel really good in general, imagine they'll be even nicer after they settle.

Hopefully they'll not look too hard at the lack of a dpf/cat Calipers got high build primed: Then sanded back and painted: Got lazy and didnt bother masking off the piston and boot, doubt it'll make much odds. Also got new discs and an abs sensor as one of them on the axle was damaged getting it off the car and the correct size heat shields ( not sure if they can be put on without needing to replace the wheel bearings.) Its basically ready to go into the car otherwise, end of next week is still when i'm aiming to have it done.

Hey All, Picked up my very first Škoda Superb today and a very proud new owner. I got the 2018 206tsi 4x4 (Australian Spec) in business grey with all the bells and whistles. Still really low KMs 40,000 (25,000mi) and runs amazingly. Just had a full service from the dealer and in tip top mechanical condition with full service history. Looking forward to getting to know it better and get a real feel for it. Looking at putting on 4 new tyres and posted on this subject here a few days ago - everyone on here are so helpful and knowledgeable. Such a great forum, really enjoy browsing and reading up. Cheers all, happy driving!

I'm on Eibach pro kit as well. But I have Audi TT rear top bushings instead of the OE bushings.

2016 Superb SEL Executive diesel DSG in Black. Loving it so far.

I had the same car for over 2 years and can confirm I had the kangaroo effect a grand total of never. It's a cracking engine/gearbox combination. Don't worry about it and enjoy your new car.

How do you remove the side dash panel?from step 1,i tried pulling it towards the outside,it flexes but wont come out.

No the bikes live in the garage behind that roller shutter door. Thanks for the compliment about the cabin. It's one of these... https://dunsterhouse.co.uk/log-cabins I bought it second hand from Facebook Marketplace. It was erected in a garden in Edinburgh. A friend of mine who is very good at this kind of thing, dismantled it. We then loaded it into the biggest van we could rent and I drove across the Forth Bridge with rather too much of it hanging out of the rear doors which were tied together. He then reconstructed it in our garden and it now has electricity and a wood burning stove. Following that I bought another small shed in Dundee which we dismantled and brought home in my trailer. My good friend attached it to the side of the cabin and fitted it out as a toilet and shower room. There's still more to do....