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Current delivery estimate mid of next week #yay edit: month -> week

You should have a 2nd 12V socket in the boot. If that doesn't work either then, as langers2k says, it's probably the fuse. I had the same issue with my 2nd hand estate and a new fuse fixed it. You have to remove the glove box to access the fuse box, when you put it back reconnecting the arm on the left hand side of the glove box usually takes a few goes. Your manual should include a diagram of the fuse box and identify which number it is (F40?). The fuses are colour-coded by rating.

Thought I would share some pics of my new car. 2017 octavia vrs dsg 4x4 TDi in meteor grey.

It has been a long time until I post something. I did cancel my order, and I am waiting for my advanced payment return. I did found another Octavia, it is brand new MY23, it's black and have around 4K € of more additional equipment from one that I did order. That one was ordered last year and buyer cancel order 2 month ago, and this one was finished a month ago. I did check dot on tires and they are Good Year (not sure which model) but dot is 22/2023 so less then two months, buyer was unlucky since when he did cancel order, car get in production. This is one which was not waiting for parts half-completed. So I am very happy with that I will post pictures once when I will pick it up. Maybe this or next week, we are working on lease ATM. Can't wait for activation in the app 🥳

One of the 1st things I have always done when upgrading from the Classic - Elegance - Greenline is transfer the heavy gauge cable I made up with ring type connectors on the end that connect the earth lead connection on the inner wing to the starter motor mounting bolts, This may be why I have never had issues with very tired batteries that have always started the cars. Wonder how many battery salesmen we have on here.

one of POIs in my 4313 km trip around Czech Republic 10Mb limit reached and BS forum's engine doesn't accept links from Google Drive 😞 like https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qC6SnfW4DCWFiwdvi5K_N7eSACqjBPj6/view

Just signed off on my new to me 2019 Octavia VRS with 20k miles on the clock. After many months on Autotrader looking at A4's , A5's, Focus ST Estates, Leon estates and Golfs I'm delighted with my choice and can't wait to drive it more. Any useful new owner advice would be appreciated Thanks

VAG Codes (vag-codes.info) Link within link https://vag-codes.info/vag-option-codes A lot of the definitions are too vague to be useful alone,, but in the context of the pages of ETKA, they can pin down what's what via the 'data model' column where they appear.

It might also be that after an hour you cannot edit. This is a protection as we’ve had in the past folk play silly and edit posts, ether to change the context in an argument, or spammers to add in content that we’ll not then see, or other reasons. A few bad apples and all that. Supporters via freedom do not have this restriction. That’s my initial thought

No, they're not. Certain measurements need to be an exact match, or within a very fine tolerance. The PCD (Pitched Circle Diameter) is the circle taking the centre point of the five bolt holes. VAG differ, although common sizes are 112mm and 110mm. The Centre bore is the hole in the middle of the wheel. VAG again vary, as will Hyundai. Too large a centre bore can sometimes be adapted with the aid of a spigot ring. Too small and it simply might not fit. The offset is the distance from where the wheel sits against the hub to how far in or out the wheel sits. Perhaps not so critical on a space saver, but too far in and it will rub on the suspension, and too far out and it'll rub on the wheel arch. Neither are okay. If you can get the measurements, there are various websites you can check if it'll fit, or not as the case may be. Gaz

You could also stick a blade down the osr door jam in the rear door/rear light area, cut through the loom, give it a good wiggle to short it out and it would unlock the van. Paired with a can of expanding foam up the wheel arch to muffle the alarm and you had free access to the contents. Done a fair few repair jobs for this issue. Another one on Range Rover was to smash the wing mirror glass off, short out the keyless entry aeriel and it would fail safe and unlock the vehicle. So many stupid ways in on new cars. That being said, this video is a load of rubbish.

I'd say the information does come really randomly. First i got no info after february, but then suddenly it was ready, and right after that it had arrived to my country. I was sure that the shipping would take 4-6 weeks, but seemed more like 2-3 weeks.

Issue is revealed towrds the end, it was a long journey to get to the bottom of it.

The Paper Work showing work done or invoiced for is very important because the Online Service Records are not always that good. Skoda Main Dealers only do what they get paid to do and not all tell customers what is required such as the DSG servicing or the Haldex or if they do the Haldex actually do it properly.

It is extremely unlikely that a mechanic would have access to a new camera. Parts are rarely kept in stock, apart from routine service items, and have to be ordered in. Also, the repairs don't need to be fixed before the warranty expires, the fault just has to be notified by then.

Can you take a picture? Both the center console and boot ones work in my car and I'm not aware of any blanks... Might just need a new fuse at a guess.

Sorry guys, yes the Autotrader ad has expired. Waiting on a few enquiries as to whether I re-activate it or not. To answer Idleness's questions: The paintwork pictures are from the nearside front bumper, along the creaseline above the fog lamp. Ni idea what caused it, but it's simply a layer of paint that has cracked and then lifter along about 2 inches. The servicing I had done at Turners of Erlestoke - a Skoda main dealer, so I would think they carried out all required Haldex/DSG oil changes etc, but I will go through the paperwork tonight to check. Car is still available, I am open to sensible offers. Happy to go out on an accompanied test drive.

I use Aliexpress for key shells and innards You can even upgrade to new style key

I've got a 2022 vRS Estate with DCC and i do like being able to choose between the different settings. The main i keep it it normal most of the time and flip to comfort if the road is bumpy. If i'm out for a spirited drive then knock it into Sport but that's mainly for the extra noise. I've set individual to the firmest setting but rarely use it, its really quite firm in that mode. What i'm trying to say is for me the main benefit of DCC is actually the comfort mode. Keeps the family happy.

Lol No battle - just differing opinions. 🤝

The circuit to do with the microswitch is a dumb circuit - power to the switch, switch controls bulb, ground. Nothing special and no bcm control or way for the car to know if the glovebox is open.

What issues do you have? Now I'm scared that after waiting for so long for the car, it will have annoying software bugs.

Only problems with water pumps I’ve read about on here are mainly diesels , and the odd 2.0 TSI petrol with the pump driven by the cam belt. I believe the water pump on the 1.5 TSI is a completely separate unit on the opposite end of the engine from the cam belt.

Sucess! Thank you !

I normally use Bilstein B4 shock absorbers, and they are sometimes fitted as OEM equipment on cars. You might want to check the model number with Bilstein directly, or one of the big suppliers. Although I expect autodoc has got it correct. The below Bilstein shock absorbers are not electronic shock absorbers. So if your car has DampTronic, you will need much more expensive shock absorbers costing many times the price. Bilstein B4 22-232342 front shock absorbers https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/9266741 Bilstein B4 19-232362 rear shock absorbers https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/9129438

Also be very careful about small metal objects like that hair clip near the socket.

No they are not universal, it needs to be the correct PCD and the correct centre bore to go over the bearing casting

That looks pretty much the same as the one I've got for the Swift - works a treat!

I've twice rescued a child locked in a car with none other than prying top of the driver door open, to then reach in with a coat hanger to ping the door unlock. One was a neighbour with a Renault with a key card for ignition, and they left their child asleep, and I had to ping the button on the small fob, was like tiddly winks. Second I was flagged down and they locked kid in the car, luckily it was older VAG with door unlock button on the driver door. Both kid's safely removed. Some mechanic's / roadside recovery have a small hand sized cushion you inflate to make a gap in the door.

reality is, if they want to get in your vehicle, theyll get in your vehicle.. just like if someone reeeeallly wants to get into your house, theyll get in.

Oh many a delusional owner has been caught by that .... esp with VAG unfortunately "oh yes its on the service menu/schedule, but we don't advise or prompt ... you should have asked!"

2.0 fuel filter for DFGA between 06.02.17 - 11.03.19 is 5Q0127177B - this part number has since been superseded to 5Q0127177D which is the same as for 11.03.19 onwards. 5Q0127177 is for pre 06.02.17 vehicles with the 1.6 or 2.0 engine. So yes, dealer is correct and ending in either B or D is correct (mainly D)

thread bump... i ordered the below off amazon germany (the B word makes using the default .co.uk a minefield of customs or not). i ordered 2, not realising they come as a twin pack in that size, so i now have 4... but did a test today when they arrived - they work 100% as advertised. even with the pouch top open, sitting the car "no key detected" message until removed fully from the pouch. pressing the buttons through the pouch outside the car - no reaction. so im a happy bunny, may give the extras to the inlaws for their keyless start mazdas... link https://www.amazon.de/gp/r.html?C=3KS82OZ9FHPVW&K=NUCOOOLALB2R&M=urn:rtn:msg:202207250754039876ecc09de24850945ff35d3500p0eu&R=32NUX0C0JJ1MZ&T=C&U=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.de%2Fdp%2FB08FT6YCQZ%2Fref%3Dpe_27091401_487027711_TE_SCE_dp_1&H=3VG1BJEQWVYEK7RRUCU2RRLG8RQA&ref_=pe_27091401_487027711_TE_SCE_dp_1

Why not swap them front-back Unlikely to slide the back out with 3.7mm of tread Might get another year out of all 4 that way If you want to buy all seasons, I would suggest October is bit late to order them as prices always jump in Autumn. Try and order by mid September (even if don’t get them fitted for 1-2 months)

Hi folks. Ive been waiting since June last year and my Octavia will be delivered next month! I will let you know my thoughts when I finally get behind the wheel. Thank you to all those who posted about delayed deliveries; I was beginning to get a bit paranoid so glad to know I was not alone.

Instead of stocking and selling model specific head gaskets, makers and/or sellers prefer one size fits all style head gaskets. Same gasket fits, Fav., Fel. and Fabia Mk.1 MPI. Fabia MK.1 1.4 MPI, the last iteration of the original Škoda engine has a slightly different block. (Reinforced?)

Hi, I posted on this subject some time back. I have a Karok 4WD, and the first time I had a puncture, it was on the of side front wheel. I replaced the punctured wheel with the space saver, and drove off. I immediately felt the car pulling hard to the right. I struggled with this for about 5 miles to get me home. I checked when I got home, and the space saver was Red Hot. Trying to rationalize why this should be, I came to the conclusion that as the space saver was a lot smaller than the wheel it replaced, it was turning a lot faster. The Traction Control had assumed I had wheel spin on that side, and was applying the brake. I then switched the Traction Control Off, and the problem was solved But there is no mention of this problem any where in the Hand Book. Just a thought for you. If you have to buy a spare wheel, get a full sized one ?

I like the colour 😎 (But then I like different). Needs dust caps on the tyre valves. Only one key - bit of an annoyance; bargaining chip maybe? Gaz

I'd be focussing on the crank sensor given those very healthy voltages. No harm in checking earths though, the one from starter motor to inner side of chassis leg is just as important as the main one from battery to chassis when it comes to cranking the engine. The starter end of it is quite exposed and subject to big temperature swings, so a good one to clean up. For crank sensor, check wiring isn't damaged near its connector, and check for water ingress inside connector before spending on replacement. You may need a tool you don't have, and access isn't totally straightforward, see here: '06 Fabia 1.9 vrs, crankshaft sensor fixing bolt. - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Main earth to check is the one from the battery post to the body of the car, same for the positive post clamp, loose clamps will cause problems, (then you'd need to check your wiring diagram for other earths. ETA: now sorted.). A few times I've found the battery post clamps loose, often this is the problem so easily found and sorted (battery recharge might also be required). But first check your battery thoroughly the recent extreme hot weather will have done your battery no favours, 12.6v is fine but that needs checking a good while after the car has been running and you really need to know what it drops to as the starter cranks over to see what real guts it has. I'd suggest you charge the battery (disconnected if possible) anyway as you need the battery in a good state of charge and condition often to find and sort electrical issues and a lower or poor state of battery (and charging system) will hinder progress. A long, low, slow charge is better than the quick chargers and not booster. Just driving the car often is nowhere near enough to recharge a battery that's been depleted. I charged up a neighbour's battery last week despite him telling me it was "good", I hear that often when they're not, I forget how many volts it showed but it was not low "as the battery had been on a charger to 90%". We jump started the car with the loan of some decent leads and use of my wife's Fabia Mk3 battery. And right now I'm looking at another neighbour's battery that starts the car but might not later if I wasn't charging it up now (off the car, been 10 hours now on slow charge and no green light).

I have sent you the location of them all.

A couple more from yesterday's visit to Calke Abbey .........

Fortunately if you don't like it or it doesn't work properly in your environment, the solution is really simple, don't use it 😄

You should rule out charging issues from the Alternator system and check the battery health. Low Voltage will cause many systems to fail, leading to you chasing your tail. Fairly recent threads on the forum for power related issues.

Bear in mind that the clutch release bearing is not rotating at any time except when the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the drive to the gearbox disengaged. In other words, if it was that, I'd expect you to only hear the noise when the clutch pedal was down, or on the way down/up. If I'm understanding your post correctly, your scenario is the opposite. More likely the bearing cassette at the far end of the gearbox I think, have a look at this and see if you recognise anything noise-wise:

Lucky guy! Yes i still have them but after the well known problem the sensor ''reads'' the coolant temperature just before the radiator and it's hard to look in the console while driving especially in Mountain roads. I had in the past a gauge in the plastic column (driver's side) but blocks the vision in parking movements. I have to thing about it. What worries me is that i can not attach a sensor inside the expansion tank for example so i could read the digital numbers easily at a glance.

Sorry to say, I've bought enough tech products: don't trust any promised feature update unless it is written in black and white on a signed paper. Even then, expect delays.

An update, nine months in, one South East UK winter, and 5k miles later. Are they a good tyre? - yes they most certainly are Will I have them again? - no, I will not. Another mild winter. No snow of any note. I have a GTI, and I like to enjoy having a GTI. My Wife's Polo GTI is on PS4's. Those tyres have outshone the CC2's throughout the entirety of our 'Winter'. Had we had any duff weather, I'd have wanted to be on the CC2's. But we didn't. Better weather has been here for three months, and Summer is most certainly here now. The PS4's now outperform the CC2's quite noticeably. I get that's not the point. The limited time I might need cross climate tyres, I don't think warrants having them. I'm not wasteful, so I'll stick with them, as overall they're a very good tyre indeed. Glad I tried them. Here and now, other tyres suit my needs better. PS4's or PS5's (or similar) for me next. Gaz

When I was (a lot) younger I used to collect keys and had quite a few of the FT ones which I think you're referring to. The big difference in 'old Fords' is that they weren't classic at the time lol. It turns out that my Mexico from 1971 is still running though which is definitely an exception to the above!