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Suppose not technically all today, but brought it, changed out the internal lights, applied a private plate, got a replacement key for the missing one on the detachable tow hook. Very happy with it, good spec in all the right places for me~

Just a quicky - something we all know, but somehow I've overlooked the obvious for a while. I noticed my aircon getting weaker for a while, thought it may need a regass or something. Anyway today I got round to changing my cabin filter - I "left if for later" some months ago when I did the service and ran out of time. Guess what? Air flow much improved and air con icy cold again. Ok I admit to having only previously vac'd the pollen filter, so its been in for 25,500 miles. But I have done this so all of you lovely Skoda owners now know that yes, you really should change your cabin filter every 2 years / 20,000 miles at the most.

So this started a few weeks ago when my Fabia started leaking cooling. After a lot of searching around, I found it coming from the bulkhead where the heater matrix connects. There are two alloy pipes that go into the matrix, with a braket attached at the top. Except in my case, the bracket was no longer attaced (what 200k miles does to aluminium). Initially I thought that heater matrix would have cracked too (not just damaged O-rings) , so I was preparing to swap that. I started looking for a new matrix, and while doing so came accross a PTC heater for £30. An eBay offer later and I had an original Skoda PTC for £15, including clips and bottom housing! See eBay pictures below. I did confirm it was an option, and the part codes were right for my car before purchasing, but that was as far as I got. As I understand this is the earlier version, that has been superceeded twice to get to the version that fits in the Polo 6R. The following link is an excellent page that shows the newer style, and has some good wiring diagrams, albiet wrong for a Fabia. https://polo.blue/2018/09/02/ptc-retrofit/ Another eBay best offer later, this time of £20, resulting in a 120 amp alternator (thanks @varooom and @Breezy_Pete for the info). Hopefully this is a direct fit. My car has a 90 amp alternator as standard, I will try with that first and log the load factor with VCDS to see if it's viable to not upgrade. You can also get a 110 amp version for a similar price. Now for the bits from the dealer, this is the expensive bit. I'm going for 100% OEM, so you could omit these and go for generic parts if you want. 6Q0937617B Fuse holder, will add price later but around £10 N01713120 40 amp fuses to go in said holder, you need 3 - Around £1.50 each 1J0972753 - Plug to connect to the PTC heater - Around £10 4B0937527A - Relay plate. You need two. These are around £14 from a dealer which I refuse to pay, so I'll be getting used. It can be any part number, justs needs to fit in the relay frame and support large pin (will confirm dimension) relays. As for the pins, I'll be ordering them from TE connectivity so I can crimp them to my own wire, and avoid having to splice to repair wire. The OEM relays are number 644 and 645. I will instead be using 70 amp rated Panasonic items as they are far cheaper, and new. Will update once everything arrives, and once I have details on the pins finalised.

£20 later and I have a 120 amp alternator. Will start a new thread as a guide

Locked at 10 kmph / 6 mph.

Hurray found it, I had the car up on axle stands for bleeding the brakes and it was slightly nose down, enough to form an air lock in the master cylinder as the fluid outlet is underneath on the end, I read on here that they raised the front of the car, and it worked ! I bled it with the gunsons easybleed fed off an old bike innertube and followed the Skoda instructions.Thanks for all the suggestions, Happy bunny.

I can confirm that running one medium-sized cool box (3.5A, 40W, 12V) for 14 hours is certainly enough to drain a fully-charged battery in an almost-new car to the point where there isn't enough electricity to start the engine in a car park in Inverness - you might be able to extrapolate from that looking at the power ratings of your equipment 😐

Here are some photos I took for you.

The easiest door ever to take off, just undo the very small hex headed screws going into the 2 hinge pins. Lift the slider that locks the wiring plug in & disconnect then just lift off the hinge's. No need to adjust anything when putting it back as long as you don't undo the hinge mounting bolts.

This is going to be a guide of how to fit the PTC heater option using the OEM control system and OEM parts. Its going to be a work in progess/follow along style, but I'll edit this post when its complete with all the information you need. With currnent eBay and dealer prices, the whole job costs less than £100 and could be easily completed in a weekend. First thanks to @Crocket@piggoy@Breezy_Pete@jacissmiling for all the effort on the original thread

This is also a dash out job, You could maybe do it with the dash in, but it would be very hard to route the wires almost impossible/impossible to connect to the bulkhead where you need to (same place as cruise control but you need to connect a large power wire too). It takes a couple of hours and is far less scary than people assume, definely easier than struggling to do it with the dash in, in my opinion.

Try SSP028 Octavia ESP / SSP042 Skoda ESP? There are other SSP's with nuggets buried here and there

I think the float pivots in an arc in roughly the direction of travel, and behind it's axis of rotation, judging by the polarity of my observations. People may be keen to howl indignantly that Fabias do have steering angle sensors, but they'll be meaning the turn rate sensor instead.

Yeah several people online have hadt when their ABS module has broken. Thanks for confirming Pete Yes, ABS transmits the speed data on CAN, for your speedo and such as Pete mentions. There's no need for the Airbag controller to expose information about acceleration, so it doesn't. The processing for the "calculated acceleration" happens in the cluster. I didn't expect this to cause so much discussion, so I wasn't clear in my original post. The cluster is estimating if you're accelerating or breaking, based on the rate of change of speed, and when doing so, slows down/stops its reading of the fuel sender to prevent erratic readings. The position of the sender in the tank is irrelvant in this case. Ideally VW would put the sensor in the centre of fluid, and the tank would be a hemisphere, and fuel wouldn't splash, that way you'd have a perfect reading regardless. But they can't do that obviously. If they have put the sensor in at 90 degrees to the direction of travel, I would assume this has been done to get closer to that perfect scenario of a central float. The sender is on the far left/right of the tank to begin with, so cornering forces are already going to have a much greater affect than acceleration of deceleration. By pointing the float inwards, you make little difference to the fore/aft position but you get much closer to the centre, thus minimising the cornering affects. It could also simply be packaging. To correct my previous statement, the Fabia dash cannot compensate for steering angle as there is no real accelerometer data, nor is there a steering angle sensor as these cars didn't come with ESP. Golf MK4 on the other hand, that may be different. I did find it in an SSP a while ago Pete (And confirmed by taking the fuse out), will try and find it

All the doors and the boot lid are locked automatically once the car reaches a speed of about 15 km/h. You can set single door unlock, and motion lock with dealer or aftermarket tools like VCDS. Doors stay locked until anyone inside pulls a handle, they won't automatically unlock.

My car doesn't have it but iirc it'll lock over 15mph and stay locked until you open the door. Think Vag com will be the only way I got vcds for 50 euro not too long ago, and it works perfect...

A few shots from Sundays visit to Coningsby............. The Lancaster suffered a bird strike, but happily returned safe and sound 👍

@Stillwaitingforoctavia It does indeed look like the dealer has left themselves with no where to go but pay you what you’ve already agreed with them. In my experience of ordering vehicles with long lead times the dealer has always clearly marked the part-ex’ price as an estimate only so they have wiggle room for depreciation and market trends. TBH the dealer shouldn’t be too put out about this anyway as the used market is so strong right now they will have no trouble selling your old car on with a good margin for themselves and still honour your agreement. 👌

I have two engines in my lounge/diner, I think I'm properly house trained thankyouverymuch!

As mentioned there is a channel in VCDS, that vortex guide is good. It normally doesn’t need doing unless the car has had a fuel sender in the past or the sender has some how got damaged. Normally the fabia range meter and fuel gauge are very pessimistic for obvious reasons. Fun fact: Fabia’s actually use the ABS controller to measure the vehicle acceleration/deceleration to compensate for fuel slosh in the tank

Dealer will likely have only guaranteed your trade-in price for a very short period of time. Or perhaps given you a projected estimate (though I doubt they would have committed themselves to anything even off-the-record) Whatever,you will definitely be way beyond that now. However as @roottoot has said. Used prices are very strong right now so go in swinging!… Maybe 10 years or so ago when I was taking delivery of a Yeti, the dealer (AC) tried to pull a fast one on the trade-in price on the day I was collecting the car, car was sitting ready with my plates on it (was something like 8>9 months delivery)… Stood up, walked out and drove away, salesboy that I was dealing with was in tears, less than 10 mins later sales manager phoned me with a much more sensible offer and the deal was then completed. So short answer is kick the **** out of them! edit: not literally of course 🤣

Although the Octavia has a decent noise profile from factory, I decided it would be worthwhile attempting to soundproof it a little more. The usual culprits, the boot and rear seat, were first in line. The large metal surfaces in the boot had only some small pieces of deadening material on them from the factory, sounded like a drum when tapped, especially the hump above the gas tanks. Treated them with a layer of CTK Premium 2.2mm butyl mats. I also identified a potential source of rattle under the rear seat, marked in the second picture. The part of the trim extending below the seat has a plastic rivet going through it, but it's not tightly secured against the metal. Tapping lightly on the edge caused it to rattle, so I snuck the edge of the butyl mat below those parts, tightening them up. Adding insulation in these locations has already improved a lot of the noise originating from the back, particularly by eliminating a lot of the "thump" you hear when driving over small bumps or holes in the road surface. Next step will probably be the doors and boot lid.

That's certainly possible. Although the garage said they hadn't touched the switch - and since the unit is on the opposite side of the car it's difficult to understand why they would?

Spent the day (actually the last couple of days) testing loudspeakers. Having only had a couple of days off in the last eight weeks and nearly all of those days were well over 12 hour long ...and saying in shoddy hotels 😡 I have treated myself, or rather, (cough cough) my business has acquired some new monitors. There is a small chance I may listen to them in a personal situation rather than a professional one of course . But it was great to listen to the differences in some of the last bit of truly analogue kit left - speakers (Obviously vinyl and tape still exist, but there isn't as much of it about and pretty much all new recordings are done as digital masters these days). The great thing was I could listen to a recording I actually helped make!! It wasn't my ears that made the magic happen on those recordings, I was just the hired help for rigging and editing annotations with the orchestral score, but I was there when it was created, so it was interesting to see (or hear) how close I could get to the original sound. Ended up driving to Carlisle to listen to some today and wanted to buy an opened box set, which this morning I had asked to hear. When I got there, I was told they were sold!!!!! Luckily, they did a great deal on a brand-new pair of the same model for only a small increase in price. I did still try some other speakers and Peter Tysons were kind enough to even open a brand-new set of Monitor Audio 300 Golds for me to listen to (I didn't buy them in the end). The open box set of those M.A.s that I had also was interested in, had just been sold that morning too and once again Peter Tysons offered to match the price of the opened box set if I wanted them. Excellent pricing and they were super easy to deal with. Thoroughly recommend them at their Carlisle branch.

Is this any help at all? - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/electrical_system/electrical_system/lights_lamps_switches_outside/additional_brake_light/additional_brake_light_for_octavia_combi/

Pleased that your CD issues mostly solved. However, I am sure that I'm with many others who were waiting for news of your engagement with the services of the attractive young lady living next door.

if you want to display adblue on the main dash you are going to need access to an OBDeleven or a VCDS Select module 5F Information Electrics. Adaptions Vehicle menu operation-menu_display_Adblue. Set to activated Vehicle menu operation-menu_display_Adblue_over_threshold_high. Set to activated. If you check through the dashboard options it will be available on the list.

If all else fails, engine out job I think

Many thanks rum4mo, the part number was spot on. £11.05 and a 30 second job to fit. I must remember to not sort out advisories at the last minute!

Crow's foot wrench, with long extension(s)?

I would prefer that, when it stops twitching on hard right (or left as the case may be) corners then you know that you really are about to run out of fuel.

Not the garage to be using then, as they've probably quoted for both bits to cover their asses. But see edit to my last post, please. If it were just a junction leakage, it would just need re-sealing, nothing replacing.

Update Done. - Working fine 🙂 Many Thanks

Yeah, it does, Pete.

Welcome. I will flag this for a Mod and they can move it to the Octavia section. Hopefully you will get help there.

“There has been no issues with this car. I have had my service advisor check.” Sounds positive. Collecting on Saturday.

I'm so grateful my double garage was built extra large by the previous owners. It's area size is 56m2 (8.7m x 6.5m)

Ahh whoops sorry I meant F268. The PTC enable switch/line in the heater controls

0480 is available, will send PM in five minutes.

Thanks for the replies. Like I said, I’m getting a manual. I’ve asked the dealership to confirm the software update has been applied and will definitely give it a good test before driving home.

In fairness, if Sepulchrave happens to be using a mobile device at the time then you can't see that little tab, or signatures. So it's handy to have it in the original post, IMO/IME.

Hi there. You need to open the boot lid and then carefully remove the top plastic panel (the one that is underneath your brake light). You just need to pry it. Then you will see that the third light is attached by clips. You need to push them in order to release the third brake light. You will also have to remove the electrical connector and the rear wiper tube from your third brake light. Fitting the new is the reverse order.

There's always an excuse why they won't even have a crack at getting some of it out. My favourite was "Sorry, I normally have the door card off and everything to get the glass out, but the hoover's not working". He didn't look happy when I said "No problem, I totally understand - I'll get you mine"

Errr, no. I’ve been assured by a certain QW that flapped cars are now achieving £750-1000 over non-flapped cars… 😁

I understand now, pressure plate fingers.

With time running out and you having not done anything about this, it might just be easiest to buy a new filler cap, Skoda will, I'd think without checking up on a parts listing, sell a new cap seal for very little money. Edit:-1K0201557A is one number for a seal.

To clarify for future readers, you don't need a spring compressor tool for this job under normal circumstances. When installing new dampers, I didn't need compressors. Threaded end of the shaft is long enough to use its own nut to compress the spring. Here are some more explicit pictures to expose the nature of the concluded work. Just after pulling it out. I couldn't cut this without a spring compressor. Also, Bottom mounting nut (no:20) on one side has stripped. It also took the socket of the wrench along with it. I had to cut it too. No:11 was missing one one side. No:4 was missing on both sides. This is a tube shaped spacer to fit inside the rubber bushing. I had to find a metal pipe to cut pieces like that. Just a reminder for future readers; spring compressors are dangerous. There are horror stories everywhere on the net. Beware.

Skoda-parts.com seem to be suggesting that Elring are an OE supplier: Valve Stem Seal Elring 036109675A (skoda-parts.com)

For most UK people a serious 4x4 isn’t a Superb. In 3 years I haven’t been stranded or stuck by winter weather on summer tyres. However if you want to leave junctions and roundabouts safely, this car puts my former GTI and Octavia VRS in the shade, no wheel spin in the wet or dry. Haldex service at a garage was ‘only’ £90 and tyres lasted about the same as my VRS. If Autotrader is anything to go by I imagine the ratio of 4x4 for sale is probably similar to the 2WD versions.

Traditionally on a Mac based on VW instructions you were suppose to do what I posted up on 1st November, Keka for unzipping and CleanMydrive once it's copied to the SD card. CleanMydrive removes all the Mac garbage that if inserted within the files will stop the unit doing it's SLA1 signature check. Suspect thou Keka might blow a trumpet on the way the files are zipped by Skoda. VW download doesn't suffer from Skoda's wobbly zipping so you are better using that link. It's all the same material. Bit by bit .