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So, after 13 months (5 of them being parked), my 2.0 TDI DSG is finally finished 🥳🥳🥳 My dealer called me today around lunch time but it’s been such a hectic day at work that I couldn’t share the news with you guys sooner. It should be ready for pick up in about 2 weeks. Doesn’t show in the app yet though. So the time has come, my budget is about to get significantly thinner 😉 Will keep you updated ofc 😊

2 days to go

Quite a vivid rainbow earlier today, and a slight second one: I like rainbows 😎 Gaz

A couple from the other day....... . Frog or Toad?

For anyone interested my local independent garage has found the fault. Turns out a rocket has broken on cylinder 3 which has closed one of the valves. This in turn has damaged the camshaft and cam cover. So thankfully not a new engine. Camshaft assembly was £1500 however, but cheaper than anticipated. Local official VW parts company that my garage got the part from said they have sold two others in last 6 months. Not massive numbers but obviously something that has failed before. Sorry rocker not rocket….

I spoke to the warranty people today who told me that they'd be happy to process a claim, however I need to get the problem diagnosed be a Skoda main dealer. Great! So I rang up Rochdale and asked to speak to one of their technicians, instead of the service manager. I spoke to a really helpful lad, told him my plight along with my concerns about paying for another diagnostic that potentially wouldn't find any faults. He reassured me that this is a very common issue, so much so that there's a bulletin from Skoda, they keep the parts in stock and so hey don't even do a road test, they just do a basic strip down and can easily identify a faulty water pump. Then they'd initiate a claim against the warranty. The only issue that could arise would be if they found any signs of previous tampering with the pump. So feeling a bit more reassured I've booked it in with them on Tuesday. The garage in France recommended that I replace the timing belt as the car is now over 5 years old, so I mentioned this to the technician who agreed that it was due and that it would reduce future labour costs if I had it done at the same time. so I think I'll get them to do that too. I'll let you know how I get on. Mart

Almost like a plastic scraping sound? Pretty common, it will be one of the heater box directional flaps either sticking or not greased sufficiently. Now the only thing is, depending on what system you have there are 5/6 of them. 1. Recirculation 2. Drivers temp 3. Passenger temp 4. Flow direction 5. Windscreen flow direction 6. (Optional) rear temp control It is a job of working out what one is making the noise. Even then it is not a nice job, most of them are buried DEEP behind the dashboard and awkward to get to.

Fair enough but I'd argue you're looking at it the wrong way round. In warm dry conditions the differences between a summer tyre and a good all season are small to the detriment of the all season - but in cold wet conditions (which a lot of the UK gets maybe 5 months a year) the differences are massive to the detriment of the summer. I know which I'd prefer to be using as and all year round compromise given the above.

You have fallen into the classic error or not checking the test parameters. And basically assuming summer tyres will be tested at an average UK temperature. It is very true that wet grip at temperatures over 20c is not quite as good, but in UK majority of our rain is nearer 3-15c and the wet grip rating is not based on cold rain. Many tests, (and comments on these forums) have said how wet grip falls off below +10c on many of the summer biased tires. So your compromise is in warm summer showers coming off continent, not UK Atlantic origin rain which is more like 90% the time.

Just updating bits I've done here and there. Front doors sound deadened Managed to find a way to refit the undertray with a bit of wood. I mean it works, will redo this to look a bit more proper, eventually. Fitted the Filled Hydroil mount too. 60 shore is as stiff as it needs to be, its slightly firm at idle but perfectly liveable like this.

Wow 😲😲 ! How do they dare call themselves as professional official dealer! unbelievable !!! 😡 Simple suggestion, go to another official dealer if feasible.

Im already up to 16 months, and still counting for a vrs iv, also a company car. it’s tough, but what alternative is there? I’m not sure there’s a manufacturer out there at the moment that can honestly supply a new car within what used to be considered a reasonable time frame. I’m sure things will get better for you. Personally, I’ve found depths of restraint I haven’t experienced since waiting for the lego set my mother left in plain sight in the run up to Christmas back in 1989 i hope things get better soon for everyone

Having been piggy-backing on an Antipodean thread about a 1964 Skoda Octavia until now, I thought it only fair that I should start my own, and so I'll summarise what's happened with the car so far: I acquired the car in December 2020, from a guy in Kent, in whose family it had been since it was new. I bought it "sight unseen" and, while appreciating the risks this might involve, I had long conversations with the owner and felt comfortable with things, not least because the cars are so rare I'd be lucky to ever see another one! The car was delivered by transporter to a lock-up I'd rented in Whetstone, north London, exclusively for storing the car and I quickly realised what a great car I had! The boot was crammed with parts, the engine turned over happily and the bodywork looked pretty good. In addition, the previous owner handed me an ENORMOUS file, including the original bill of sale, numerous M.O.T.s and associated documents-brilliant! The boot contained the car's original number-plates, although the car sported a newer registration. The previous owner had already explained that the car had "slid off the radar" of the D.V.L.A. & so had received a new number. Fortunately I managed to re-register the car with its original number, with the assistance of the the Skoda Owners Club, and sort out another anomaly in the car's details at the same time-result! The entire process took less than a fortnight and, as this was over the Christmas and New Year festivities, I was most impressed with the speed of the service! All the engine needed was a battery & new plugs and I had it running in no time, albeit from a 5 litre can. Later I changed the fuel pump, to assist the fuel delivery, but there was (and still is!) a problem with the fuel line, but that's for another day! The car had no brakes at all, a fact of which I was aware, so progress up and down the road adjacent to the lock-up was, of necessity, limited. The intervention of more stringent Covid restrictions meant very little could be done for several months, and when I did have a chance to work on the car again, the starter motor had failed! To describe the removal of the starter motor from a Skoda Octavia as "difficult" would be an understatement of a magnitude unimaginable! Oddly, there's a trailer for a new series of "Bangers and Cash Restorations" on T.V. at the moment, in which a restoration mechanic says that it's possible to spend 4 hours just undoing one nut........I know how he feels! The starter is held in by two 17mm nuts, one of which it's just possible to get at, with the aid of extreme dexterity. The other one-forget it! The workshop manual says 2 specific spanners are needed and lists the part numbers......some hope! No-one had them, or had even heard of them. But this morning, I "bit the bullet" and e-v-e-n-t-u-a-l-l-y I removed it! I suspect the right-hand drive cars had several design problems, not least being the removal of said starter motor. I removed the gearbox link from the steering column, the metal heater pipe linking the front lower hose to the heater matrix, the vacuum pipe from the carburettor to the distributor and this allowed me to get a 17mm spanner onto the inner nut, between the engine block and the starter motor. I "cracked" it and, once cracked, the 17mm socket slowly shifted it & the starter came free..... Removing it from the engine bay meant unscrewing the 4 nuts holding the down pipe to the exhaust manifold, and, once shifted, I extracted the starter motor. By now it was 3pm on a sunny Saturday, so I adjourned to a "local hostelry" for several "cold ones". On Monday I'll take the starter to Unit Exchange in Borehamwood, for a refurbish.

...and a new seat cover?

A very quick google suggests: - 5E9 parts are for a Scout (4x4) - 5E0 are for 'normal' models I'm not sure what the difference between 5E0 804 875 and 5E0 804 875 C is though... I'd suggest you contact Skoda to see what part they suggest for your VIN Taken from an accessories pdf:

Just to clear this up and remove any/all blame from South Ayrshire roads - I eventually replaced both front bearings last week - and, we have been back driving on Ayrshire roads with no signs of front bearing noises! That's more like it!

Just to clear this up and remove any/all blame from South Ayrshire roads - I eventually replaced both front bearings last week - and, we have been back driving on Ayrshire roads with no signs of front bearing noises!

M10 XZN/triple square (12-point).

Congrats! It is already in transit?

Here is an example from me. Right rear mudflap was missing when I bought the car. Forman has a long rear bumper and the bottom side of the bumper is arched to the middle of the car. That creates a suitable place to gather snow slush at winter. That winter, before I installed a new mudflap set, the car had collected 5-10kg worth of frozen snow slush inside that side of the bumper. I couldn't remove that solid body for days. While the other side, which had a mudflap, had collected none. Sorry but I couldn't resist to post this picture: Here are some true mudflaps. You can't risk masking the sponsors' vinyls with mud right?

You do, unless the drive system is specifically engineered to deal with the different rolling radii.

Gerrycan: I have put in 331 litres of petrol. Chrisg2021: the vehicle data after a journey shows mpg and remaining battery capacity. My calculations are based on a split of 50% between petrol and battery usage, which is quite accurate. The 87mpg figure overall is based on total miles covered and petrol bought, based on real data following brimming the tank. I estimate an mpg of 44 in petrol alone, based on very limited data.

Fitting the tow bar itself is only half the battle. You need dedicated wiring to the tow bar and it all needs coding to the vehicle with a special control unit also. If its not done this way and instead using 'universal' wiring you will end up with issues including parking sensors beeping, acc not working and bulb warnings.

This is your installed firmware 0456, available 0480. You could update the software, but might not make AA work, never tried myself as just using Bluetooth. Something I should perhaps try to see if possible.

You might find this interesting https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-reviews/audi/quattro/

Of course, it tried to die when it got to this mileage...

We had one too, Gaz.

Hello and welcome Doug You'll get more footfall, and replies, if you post your question in the sub-forum about stereo's and stuff: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-skoda-audio-electronics-and-security/ Gaz

Male common toad i reckon 👍

Cheers Nigel - again. For someone who "isn't an expert in anything" you do give some absolutely top notch advice buddy, and I really genuinely appreciate you taking the time to walk me through this by sharing your knowledge and experience, it is a MASSIVE help pal. By "weight rating" I am referring to a comment that a guy put on my question on the Skoda Superb owners FB page about bearing in mind that the Superb estate is quite a hefty vehicle, so don't put something on there that is designed for a far lighter vehicle which happens to have the same fitment/spacings and offset as mine (so a Q3/Q5 with the correct fitting would probably be ok, but an A3 or a Fabia probably not) I will take a look on my spare wheel later to see if I can see and ET number on there. Thanks again pal

Edinburgh Airport Park & Ride. Real World. 3 out of 6 Rapids were not working. 30 Mins max charging time & i got this in 30 mins this time. Had plenty time to wait for a plane to arrive so was going onto a 7 kW charger to charge cheaper but tried 3 different ones and they would not work. 4th one did and then cut out. They are 25 pence a kWh compared to 30 pence on the 22 kW charger & 35 pence on the 50 kW DS. Imagine you have parked and ride and expect your car to be charged on return. The 7 kW chargers have a max 12 hours charging time. I think people are learning this is not such a good idea here. I ended up charging back on a Rapid while it was available & paying the 35 pence a kWh. Cars blocking a charging bay hardly matters considering the end bay is Out of Order and the one at the other end not Shut down for good. Those painting the lines doing the last bay wrong does not help.

+1 If they think that's a rational or reasonable response, I'd suggest it might also be a qualitative comment about what else they might find acceptable (e.g. in their workshops). Vote with your feet, your wallet and go elsewhere IMHO. Gaz

saloon or estate / twin door. if twin door it is the wiring loom. if not the bulbs may have gone high resistance, take one out and look, it may be glossy grey instead of clear.

I've learned something new today.

I've also had my Fabia since new in Sept 2004. My passenger door did this a few years back. I tried something similar to above but I hit the door from the outside while operating the handle & the lock/unlock buttons on the remote. It did eventually release after about 15mins or so. I just cleaned it all up &, touch wood, it hasn't happened again. I put it down to the door not being used enough. I now regularly open each door using inside & outside handles. I'm sure this technically has nothing to do with the deadlock mechanism but seemed to work for me.

@pab567 Picture available @VAGster_FIN your tag wasn't formed correct, but he will get signal now.

Toad... Frogs tend to be smooth skinned

I have had to fix this many times on my Mk 4 golf. The only bit in the video you don’t need to do is remove the glass. Loosen the glass clamps then pull the glass upwards as it it was closing then duct tape it closed, protecting the paint on the top of the door from the tape in case it pulls the lacquer off as the tape is removed. It helps to have a 2nd person to support the lock as you remove and replace the silver metal window mechanism carrier as you need three hands !! as I mentioned above, by a good genuine 2nd Hand lock rather than a cheap brand new one.

Thanks TMB, I can see the pictures now, so it must have been my work blocking the image hosting. Thank you so much.

To remove the connector plug, push the whole plug upwards to relieve strain on the catch while also pulling the tab downwards to release plug.

A quick google suggests: P2000 - NOx Trap Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 P0237 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low U11F5 - Likely DPF related? P0641 - Sensor Reference Voltage "A" Circuit/Open P0651 - Sensor Reference Voltage "B" Circuit/Open P0697 - Sensor Reference Voltage "C" Circuit/Open If I were you, I'd get a local VCDS user to perform a scan. At the very least that will give you a little more information including if the codes are current or historic and when they last occurred. Can you elaborate what the issue was and how you fixed it? Might help someone in future

I came across this thread today after trying the heated seats in my 2018 Mk3 Executive for the first time. Remembering in comparison to previous vehicles I have owned from VW with heated seats (leather and non-leather variants) there was a definite difference in how warm they got compared to the Skoda i.e. the VW's become unbearable when on setting 3 within 5-10mins no matter what seat material. The seats in my Superb get warm, slower, but never too hot. After reading what someone commented on about settings in VCDS I decided to investigate and was able to compare the Superb to an adaption scan of respective setting from a VW I had, here's the results: Skoda Superb's 2018 SE L Executive heated seat settings: VW Transporter 2020 T6.1: As you can see, the highest heat setting on the VW can reach 53 degrees C in comparison to the Skoda which is 41. That's a significant difference and to me explains what's going on. Whilst 53 was always too hot in the VW it was useful to get the initial heat going, whereas 36 on middle setting felt too low. I actually think the ideal upper settings should be something like this : 23, 41, 52. Quite odd the way the heat settings aren't standard across all VAG... but possibly having the lower setting helps conserve energy or extend component life. I might make some adjustments when I get round to it and see what it does.

Just fitted the Varta pictured earlier in this thread on Saturday. £147.00 delivered. Almost a like-for-like with the one that was to be replaced however they are now 70ah rather than 68ah . Coded into the car with VCDS, but noticed that the previous stored battery data was for a JCB battery serial no. 11111111 Seems to have cured the non functioning Stop-Start system.

After 13 months waiting my SEL iV Plug in Hybrid arrived. All seems good with it so far, just to understand some of the infotainment features!

I went down this route in July. Cost £200 and although it is Halfords branded, it is a Yuasa battery and comes with a 5 year guarantee.

A couple of shots of Dunluce Castle from last week...

If you want to take the easy road, Halford's installed and "coded" a EFB096 stop/start battery with a 5-year guarantee for me for £150 all in. Mind, that was March. It's probably twice that now.

Whatever battery you go for, 2 things you need to consider. - Make sure the spec is the exact same, CCA, Ah, Battery type (AGM,EFB,LAB) - Make sure you adapt the new battery to the vehicle (many people call it ‘coding’ the new battery but it’s not, you are clearing the old adaptations and letting the battery management system know a new battery is fitted and to start monitoring it differently) This can be done with the genuine tool ODIS or something like VCDS

What's the physical size of the battery? It's probably 175mm wide and 190mm high, but do check. Then what is the length? This varies in increments of about 1.5" (38mm). So could be 242mm long (about 60Ah capacity), 278mm long (about 70Ah capacity), 317mm long (about 80Ah capacity), etc. What capacity is your current battery? The battery capacity should be labelled on the top of the battery. Varta are good car batteries. If you have stop/start, it's best to get an AGM battery as this will last longer than the cheaper type. Varta are suggesting it's the 278mm long (70Ah battery). Varta Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 Model: 570 901 076 Capacity: 70Ah CCA: 760A Width: 175mm Length: 278mm Height: 190mm Short Code: E39 UK Code: 096AGM https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/battery-finder?type=pc&year=2017&make=106&model=14018&engine=112398&etn=570+901+076|&rec_etn=570+901+076|&ss_etn=570+901+076|&literal_search={"type"%3A"Passenger+Car"%2C"year"%3A"2017"%2C"make"%3A"SKODA"%2C"model"%3A"SUPERB+III+(3V3)"%2C"engine"%3A"1.4+TSI+(110+kW+%2F+150+PS)"}

Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this. Thought I might share my experiences with this situation. If you are wanting to change the look of your wheel centre caps but don't want to go with the hassle of removing the wheels to remove them or don't want to go to the expense of buying entirely new replacements, one thing you could check is that the outermost part of the cap is a logo sticker than can be removed. The last owner of my Octy VRS had "VRS" logo centre caps but I wasn't happy with this and wanted something closer to what would've come out of the factory. After reading up on how to remove the caps with the wheels in situ, I tried only to end up removing the logo part and discovered they were just stuck on. Doing some looking around on a certain auction site, I found this listing for plastic outer stickers for wheel centre caps (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Sticker-SKODAs-Wheel-Centre-Cap-Hub-3D-Logo-Cap-56mm-Black-Silver-Stickers/165307982153). When they arrived, they seemed to be made of a fairly sturdy plastic. Removed all the logos and cleaned the surface of the centre caps using some solvent (Sticky Stuff Remover in this case) and Isopropyl Alcohol just to make sure. Then carefully stuck the new logos in place. The result looks pretty smart. If someone looked really closely, they probably could tell they are not OEM but at a normal distance and glance, they are indistinguishable in my opinion. What do you all think?