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This inventive fella worked out that if you drill a small hole in just the right place you can release the deadlocked lock with a Tx20 tool inserted through said hole and turned a little in the appropriate direction. Quite tempted to make a suitable template or two for the Fabia and drill some 'get out of jail' holes ahead of need. 9N3 doorlocks | UK Volkswagen Forum

So, after 13 months (5 of them being parked), my 2.0 TDI DSG is finally finished 🥳🥳🥳 My dealer called me today around lunch time but it’s been such a hectic day at work that I couldn’t share the news with you guys sooner. It should be ready for pick up in about 2 weeks. Doesn’t show in the app yet though. So the time has come, my budget is about to get significantly thinner 😉 Will keep you updated ofc 😊

Even better. Pick up date is now confirmed september 14th. Happens to be also my birthday. 🤩

I think it's a well understood rule that if you have cars parked on your side of the road then oncoming vehicles have priority. But then if you have committed (i.e. before oncoming traffic has arrived on the scene) then you assume priority. If both arrive at the same time then you give way. That much is all clear and pretty well understood. I was having a discussion the other day regarding this and the other party was of the impression that if the side that should give way had a stream of vehicles coming through then they all have priority even when someone is waiting who normally would assume the priority. Example: 10 cars in a line with first 2 committed to passing parked cars. Another car arrives in the opposite direction but the line of cars all continue through even though 8 of the 10 are yet to commit. The way I see it is if you cant see that it is clear then you shouldn't go. Same as entering a yellow box with cars still in it. What if they stop? What are people views on this?

I agree, the trouble is that there are so many impatient drivers who will just follow the vehicle in front and hope they can get past the parked vehicles too.

For anyone interested my local independent garage has found the fault. Turns out a rocket has broken on cylinder 3 which has closed one of the valves. This in turn has damaged the camshaft and cam cover. So thankfully not a new engine. Camshaft assembly was £1500 however, but cheaper than anticipated. Local official VW parts company that my garage got the part from said they have sold two others in last 6 months. Not massive numbers but obviously something that has failed before. Sorry rocker not rocket….

Hi! Sorry for not replying any sooner.. We have been busy moving for the last week or so. I recently had the car at an official Skoda dealership/mechanic, who told me that he thought the engine sounded fine, and that I should just keep the car serviced with regular intervals. This definitely made me feel better about my purchase. 😅 All right, thanks for the info. The mechanic who allegedly changed the Haldex oil, was a German mechanic writing In a danish service book. Maybe that's why he put in the wrong oil change. Thank you, I will look into this, and get a quote for a full service, as it sound expensive, and has to be worth it for how long we will be keeping the car. The next service is either 212.430km, or 23/06/2023, whichever somes first.

I must have had a reason to order one in, but blowed if I can remember what it was! IIRC the Missus' now-departed Polo used the same part for its rear wiper, and it's possible that the one on her car needed replacing at some point - but I don't understand why that would have made me buy another spare "just in case". They don't fall/snap off that often, do they? EDIT: I just found an eBay order confirmation for the part, dated January 2021. So it wasn't that long ago that I bought it, either. Must be getting senile...

Now sold our Kodiaq so will no longer be on this forum. I'd like to say a huge thanks to the forum members who have given help and advice. I've been hugely impressed by the depth of knowledge, kindness and respect exhibited by, well, just about everyone. It's a great forum and I wish it - and the forum members - every success.

@Aspmanknow were i live and what happens there. 100 yards before the edge of town going out there is a shop on the left. Cars and vans from 1 or 2 to maybe as much as 8 are parked. So as you come up the road you give way. 50 yards to the left after the cars a road to the left, and across from it almost directly a road to the right. Towards you cars coming in the now 40 mile limit and then entering the 30 limit. So you sit waiting for safe to pass, maybe cars in front and as you go that car might want to park at the shop. So there you are on the wrong side of the road, no place to go but onwards or on and left, or wait and go right. Drivers challenge you, they drive into town and keep going even though for several hundred yards they can see what is parked and what is coming. Every time almost when busiest. Regular drivers that know the story and after coming in will be going away again probably.

As far as I am aware, apart from when there are give way signs and road markings there is no official right of way. There is a video on Youtube taken from a lorry which was passing a long line of vehicles parked on the left, and just before he gets to the end a car comes in the opposite direction and stops in front of the lorry. The car driver asserts his non-existant right of way and refuses to reverse a couple of car lenghts to let the lorry out, forcing the lorry to reverse about 200 metres. Appalling behaviour.

I'd have said that a traffic stream that is still moving has priority over one that has stopped, and thereby ceded priority. The only exceptions to this involve signage and/or road markings.

Ok so its' not just me but also my thinking re the priority and line of traffic stands. Makes me feel better as the person I was discussing it with was quite aggressive about it. Thanks all.

Exactly that, for many people it's only about me, me and me

@varooom I was careful not to put right of way. HWC only discusses priority (apart from the section saying there is no right of way). In your example did you think about it at all and wonder whether someone should have held back? I just don't get the mentality that someone in front has gone so I can go. Is my thinking outdated or are people on the road getting more self absorbed?

The full sizing of the wheel, will be literally cast (alloy) or stamped (steel) on the rim. It would be of the form 17.5x7.5 (overall size) 5x112 (Picked centre diameter and number of studs/bolts used) ET42 (inset/offset) and there's a dimension for the centre bore as well. You need to match the PCD dimension and the centre bore to your car but the others can vary.

Been lucky I suppose my local ones been very patient putting up with me then

I agree you generally do have bigger capacity AGM, longer life than with EFB types. Here is the VIN decoded results for my own car, the AGM has less Ah than the EFB. So there are certainly exceptions to the rule. If we circle back round to your original fault, then as I mentioned as has at least another person, you did most likely drain too much power from your battery that day. The car has been fine since, which I said it was likely to be, and you have now had testing done at the dealers and they also pass your battery and charging system. My advice back then is still the same as now, best carry a set of jump leads for a bit, but more than likely not going to be needing them for a while.

I put the details of a very similar cars into the erWin online digital service system a few days ago, it was a 2017 2L TDI in for service and 5 year cam belt. The Skoda DSS said the cam belt was due in 2036 or 240000 km, circa 150000 miles. So VAG Germany basically say the belt is good for 20 years but VAG UK say 5, a workshop filler… RIP Queen Elisabeth II

Stop start cars can use EFB or AGM, depending on several factors. Stop start does not automatically equal AGM only. My own car has AGM, but in the parts program, it shows EFB as a possible fitted choice. The car would need telling if it has EFB or AGM, and what ratings it has. Not really heard of self-learning, it will remember what is was programmed for, and try to charge accordingly. That's AFAIK, maybe someone knows different.

Kicking the can down the road, let's "borrow" more to pay for this mess. At least this means charging EV is still cheaper than petrol/diesel for 2 years..... but until we see p/kWh all this price cap/guarantee are completely meaningless.

Routemaster and EnterName have reminded me of an incident I was in some time back on a single track road. I was approaching a sharp rise, and oncoming traffic was screened. I would have been screened from it as well. There is a large passing place at the crest. I had passed the midpoint of the road between the previous passing place and the crest, when a Mercedes S class appeared over the crest with no intention of stopping and a clear expectation that I would reverse because they were in a Mercedes. Well, I stopped, very obviously switched the ignition off, and folded my arms. They gave up their attempt to bully me.

OK my mistake on the centre bore, but it is as important as the quoted figures.

Here is image from program to show you year/character pattern The main reason is that you can find out choices that will fit the car for that MY (Manufacturing Year), and quite possibly the next MY they changed wheel hub perhaps and all the wheel choices then change. Here you find your actual build date becomes important to things >> - 29.05.2011 meaning fitted up to this date 30.05.2011>> meaning fitted from this date Given your existing part number, I would say your build date should be before this date range of 29.05.2011 Here is the 2012(C) document for 17" choices (pay attention to the dates mentioned above) SUP 2012(C) 17'' Alloy Wheel 601-070.pdf

+3 for hill priority, majority of people do brake downhill/stop to allow those coming up to carry on. Sadly in some places common sense or good road manners are an urban myth... 🤔

^^^ Fair point. Location location location thing, and did apply in Gardenstown, Pennan, Crovie, Macduff etc, It certainly was harder to start with a horse and cart or a bicycle, older cars, vans, lorries etc. It was also going to be a hard hit with run away ones coming down hit into you if you could not get out the way.

I don't think the central bore size is on the wheel. - https://www.oponeo.co.uk/blog/how-to-read-the-wheel-markings

Hi, yes it is the same Octavia RS and now has 256,000 miles on the clock! It is part of the family so don't want to lose it, but things are starting to need work, so I need some advice and hoping to get this from the forum.

One comparison this person made: "it's the same as a stream of traffic coming from the right at a roundabout". I pointed out that it's nothing like that as that is the assumed priority already. On the hill front, I would always try to give way to anyone coming up as it's harder to start going again.

I could talk volumes about poor driving, been there wore the T-Shirt. You would think someone would hold back, use common sense, but sadly most seem to follow the lemming method of blindly following. How many times I have seen a narrowing in the road, where there is this sign... Only to find people carry on ploughing towards you ignoring priority (face slapped into palm moment)

i did get now information that my car is waiting for transport

"Normal quicker" start from junctions is quite ok for me, no issues, traction is good. With pedal hard on floor you get obviously quite a lot of wheelspin, but I do not that often... But best would be for you to try it somewhere in testdrive

Yes, my car does indeed have loads of extras, Enhanced stereo system with added power output power, DVD player and TV tuner with surround system, all seats heated, front seats are cooled, electric seat adjustment and memory function, also electric mirrors, also tied in to the memory system, automatic wipers, headlights, Xenon headlights which are also linked to the steering wheel angle, cornering fog / spotlights, heated windscreen, back window, washer jets, headlight washers and mirrors, auto dimming interior and door mirrors, cat vision interior lighting, footwell lighting, puddle lights, every door has door open red lights for traffic approaching from behind, electric radiator cooling fan and also A/C cooling fan, electrical steering and oodles of control units, all talking to each other. So yes, there are loads of extra draw on the battery. I already have a scan tool that can loads of things with the car but not at that kind of level you're talking about, in fact I expect that a tool capable of such advanced functionality is going to be restricted to dealers anyway, or mega expensive and thus not really a viable proposition. As to getting 8 years from a battery, this is something I have not managed to do, the old one did last 7 years, but if you google you find that can done with AGM batteries, also typical last 2 to 3 times longer than an EFB one.

Our SII from 2014 has only done 55000 M. A couple of years ago - during corona - the car went into limp mode with P00AF -9126 and 9127 - and it did not return for another year. Admittedly I had not done that many miles. A call to Skoda was sobering - £1600 please. This would have been for a completely new turbo. The CFGB turbo is made by Garrett and would be complete with actuator and manifold. It is a pain to get to apparently. Some others are easier to service and even have parts replaced. As the DTC did not return I decided to leave things as they are. The limp mode did return a week before we wanted to take the car to France. This engine without turbo in the mountains would be a right pain. I decided to try the MR. MUSCLE treatment I had read about on the internet. There was no time for a Skoda repair. The MR. MUSCLE treatment was on a 1.9L TDI and access was not the easiest. They detached the exhaust and used MR. MUSCLE into the exhaust end of the turbo. My access was even worse plus there is a DPF / pre cat in the way. but this was also the plus point. The DPF has a pre filter temperature sensor which allows access into the turbo. I removed the heat shield - red circles on the left - which is held in place with 3x 10mm nuts. Then I removed the heat shield for some wires just at the bulk head and loosened them from a bracket - green arrow. The temp sensor wire needs some wriggle room. Then I removed the temp sensor on the DPF. I sprayed MR. MUSCLE into the turbo red arrow in the centre - a few times and blew it out switching the engine on. It is a bit of a palaver as I fitted and removed the sensor and allowed parts to cool down again. I had removed the connection to the turbo actuator, which is not really necessary. You have to change the original MR. MUSCLE nozzle for one on a WD40 large bottle - I have spare WD40 can with a MR.MUSCLE nozzle now. The car / fix has lasted well. No coil warning and no limp mode. This fix cost me an afternoon and £3.99 for MR. MUSCLE and £3.50 for WD40 with a club card from Tescos. This was the VCDS readout: Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-018-CFF.clb Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 018 RS HW: 03L 906 018 MH Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC H28 5357 Software Coding: 001D0032042701080000 Work Shop Code: WSC 33361 790 00999 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906018RS 003003 (SK46) ROD: EV_ECM20TDI011_SK46.rod VCID: 0C17C779A71A1EEFA3-8058 3 Faults Found: 5172 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0234 00 [096] - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 91232 km Date: 2097.14.12 Time: 14:40:44 Engine RPM: 2195.50 /min Normed load value: 62.7 % Vehicle speed: 111 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 °C Intake air temperature: 28 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.620 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge air pressure: specified value: 1829 hPa Charge air pressure: actual value: 2216 hPa Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 698.5 mg/stroke EGR Solen.val.: actual value: 99.90 % Throttle valve adapter: actual value: 24.95 % Charge air pressure actuator: acknowledgment: 61.78 % Mean injection quantity: 27.68 mg/stroke 9126 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 P00AF 00 [101] - Stuck Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Mileage: 91232 km Date: 2097.14.12 Time: 14:40:47 Engine RPM: 2240.50 /min Normed load value: 56.1 % Vehicle speed: 113 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 °C Intake air temperature: 24 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.380 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 5.13 % Charge air pressure actuator: acknowledgment: 48.52 % Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.23 % High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 55 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 8 High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 2389.8 mV Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 % 9127 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 P00AF 00 [101] - Stuck Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Mileage: 91261 km Date: 2097.14.12 Time: 14:57:33 Engine RPM: 1347.50 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 29 km/h Coolant temperature: 88 °C Intake air temperature: 18 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.820 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 10.00 % Charge air pressure actuator: acknowledgment: 17.00 % Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.23 % High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 63 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 40 High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 3398.6 mV Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 %

Hi Cheesy, welcome to the forum. It's a judgement call really. I had mine replaced at 6 years (very low miles) - I was tempted to take to 7 or 8 years, but I chickened out! A consideration to make is that it is only Skoda UK that insists on 5 years - my understanding is that Seat, VW and Audi all specify longer periods - all with exactly the same engine. Mine cost £436, including aux. belt and tensioner, at a largeish independent garage.

Good luck this weekend, hope you have a kind dealer, even without a printout a date would be helpful for you at the least. 🤝

Oooooooooo now that is very interesting, I bet you can't guess where I am going this weekend now 😄 Thank you very much for your guidance here @varooommate, if I decide to go with new 17s rather than new rubber on the 18s (bit of a 50/50 battle going on in my head atm) then this will be gold standard information to be armed with when choosing the right wheels. All the best buddy. 👍

No just the shop being so popular & not enough room really and those entering town not just giving any thought. Not so many HGV's but lots of tractors, harvesters etc and there is no choice they get right of way, somehow it is just muppets in certain types of cars or vans that think no way am i slowing down.

Hierarchy of standard ride height rear coil springs for Superb MK3 4x4 3Q0511115AL Rear coil spring 1JA+0YD 3Q0511115M Rear coil spring 1JA+0YE 3Q0511115N Rear coil spring 1JA+0YF https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/5/511/511005 Bearing in mind that you often carry weight in the back, I suggest you go up two in the weight range hierarchy, ie. from 3Q0511115AL to 3Q0511115N. You can see the code 1JA in the chart above, which means that these are standard ride height springs. 0YD is a weight range 4 spring, 0YE is a weight range 5 spring, and 0YF is a weight range 6 spring. Notice that D corresponds to 4, E corresponds to 5, and 6 corresponds to 6. 3Q0511115N Eibach R21706 Kilen 65127 KYB RA5338 Lesjofors 4295137 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115n?search=OEN+3Q0511115N&supplier[0]=85&supplier[1]=112&supplier[2]=246&supplier[3]=85&supplier[4]=112&supplier[5]=246 You might also want to consider the Eibach R21093 rear spring because Eibach claims this has a wire diameter of 13.0mm whereas some of the other brands claim only 12.5mm or 12.75mm. This is sold to replace 3Q0511115M. However, because you often carry quite a bit of weight in the back of the car I would be inclined to go with the slightly stiffer 3Q0511115N rear springs. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115m?search=OEN+3Q0511115M&supplier[0]=112

Then there is the whole giving way to the vehicle coming down a hill if both sides of the road might have become a single vehicles width. But then people used to very hilly towns roads for years might be inclined to give way to those coming up hill.

Yes, definitely something driven by either aux or cam belt. It’s under warranty so I’ll book it in today, hopefully won’t have to wait to long - not keen to drive it on the off chance it’s cambelt related.

I can't advise a particular garage, but I'd suggest you have a rethink about Darkside, as they are very reputable and will do a great job. AFAIK, Darkside have a reputation for quality results, not for being over-priced. It's probably worth approaching Darkside, tell them what your budget is, and ask them if a turbo upgrade is possible for that budget. If they say no, then ask them for a rough cost breakdown of the work you want done. You then have a basis for comparison. I don't know what Darkside cost, maybe they have extortionate labour costs, I dunno.

My dealer told me yesterday that mine should be soon in my hands, just how soon he didn't tell me ;/ .

Congrats, I know it's been a long wait since you got the VIN number

@Duggie12 - Forget Halfrauds, and forget the VAG main stealers. Look for a local garage or fast fit outfit with a Hunter rig, and ask them for an opinion. If they agree with Halfrauds, try someplace competent like A for Audi.

Offsets are shown on the wheel, perhaps on the inside often. In the table given they're the ET numbers. There's a wheel width and offset calculator on that AlloyWheels.com site (not working at this very moment though to link to). Plenty of sites explain width and offset, here's one example. - https://www.oponeo.co.uk/blog/wheel-width-and-et-offset-explained I'm not sure what you mean by weight ratings - but for racing and "boy racing" purposes the ideal is to keep the unsprung weight as low as possible, that's the weight before the car's road springs like tyres and wheels. This of course can mean larger wheels and tyres can weight more so the larger wheels can be less sturdily made, not a good idea on the roads we now have but I don't think this would apply too much to the average 18" and 17" wheels here.

Generally speaking any tyre called Eco or sport is going to be firmest. And don’t forget that the hardness of tires varies with temperature. So whatever wheels you end up with, I suggest you fit it with all season tyres instead of summer tyres because they will ride must softer and quieter October - March/April. Unfortunately current Skoda wheel catalogue only has Superb mk3 (not mk2), but there are 16, 17, 18, 19 inch wheels for a mk3 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

Hopefully the OE Ice Scraper is still attached to the fuel filler flap? It’d be a bloody cheek if it wasn’t, as it comes with the car! Whilst they’re not cheap, I’d also go for OE carpet and rubber mats as the quality is excellent. Horton has them in stock here.

Try checking 1K8 955 435

Welcome. Best ignore the thread about a 1.5 TSI and water pump because that has no relevance to your 2.0TDI. ? Is your Local Dealer West End? Ask if they are a participating dealership and the first 30 minutes of a diagnosis is £60, because that is as long as it should take and if they are doing the repair they can waive that. Or Maybe try http://autohausedinburgh.co.uk and get the job done for a fair price by fully qualified and experienced techs.