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Well, I called to the dealer randomly (as I was in town shopping). The car had arrived 20 min before I called. Due to work, I can't collect until this time next week. I thought about pushing collecting it to the new year but decided "na, I'll take it now!"

Hi, Got some good news on Tuesday when I went in to dealer to sign papers and was told car was there! Picking it up on Tuesday, almost a year since ordering. Looks good - I'd forgotten what it looked like as there's none on the road that I ever see.

On a recent car with battery management module it's a bad idea to remove batteries to charge them, because that added charge will confuse the system by being unaccounted for.

Just thought I'd give a brief update. Whilst very happy with the ride quality following the mod, I thought it might be beneficial to conduct a DCC calibration given the car now uses a new dataset in the DCC module. Used a hoist today to do that using VCDS. Result is it feels like the increased firmness has calmed slightly and the compression damping over small bumps is now smoothed giving a slightly less busy ride in all modes. The overall feeling of the three traditional settings is still slightly firmer and much more composed with the bounding, floaty couch feeling of Comfort mode now very much tidied up. After a speed bump at 20kmh in comfort there is no more oscillation after the bump has passed. Sport ++ has smoothed slightly and is exactly what i was hoping for. I will no longer be looking for firmer stock springs after this. Even if you don't care for the 15 levels of adjustment, my experience is that updating the dataset to the 2020+ Passat data has fixed the floaty oscillation in comfort and normal modes. I'd strongly recommend doing the DCC calibration after this mod. Even if this is just my own anecdotal experience. It's easy to do and in my opinion quite beneficial. DCC calibration procedure using VCDS: Adaptation (basic settings) should be the same process on any car. Vehicle on jacks or hoist with full droop (all four wheels hanging), Module 14 Damping Electronics... Security Access 20103 (not required for my case, VCDS had already input code). Go into Basic Settings and Select the calibration from the dropdown menu and press Go. It will only run if the level sensors are in the proper range. The field should say "Completed Successfully" or something similar and that's it. It essentially zero's the suspension like when you zero a scale and it took literally 1 second to complete on my car. NOTE: Your car may drop down to the ground and look like it's now an SUV. The DCC valves will be fully closed and may hold the car up very high. This was quite shocking and I initially thought, %$^& what have i done! Don't worry about that, the car returns to normal height as soon as you put it into gear and roll away.

I picked mine up a couple of days ago. I'm enjoying it so far. Only real issues are a hesitant auto gearbox and slightly glitchy infotainment system. I hope all those of you who are still waiting receive some good news soon.

I think all the carpets in the Fabias were the same colour, just the head lining in the vRS was dark possibly making the carpet look darker.

Good news! (For me) my vrs iv has arrived. After 16 months, and exactly one year after the original delivery date! I’m feeling my age, as I’m finding it pretty bewildering to figure out where everything is in the menus. So far so good though, I’m not sure if it was sitting a long time before it was finished, but everything seems to be working…. At the moment. oddly, the mode button wouldn’t work at first, but then after an hour on the road and an ota update, it’s now fine. it also threw an engine malfunction on the first start, although this has gone and it’s telling me it needs an oil service within 100 miles. It only has 9 miles on the odometer, so not sure what that’s all about. it drives really nice, and feels a nice place to sit. So really happy so far only frustrations so far are the sunroof option seems to have cost me a sunglasses holder, and there’s some questionable panel gaps, overlap where the bonnet meets the wings, on both sides! Must be a feature. Hope everyone else who is still waiting, get theirs soon!

Is it different for a married woman with kids or a single parent father? Or even a member of Extinction Rebellion that has a protest to get to and no bike.

Well, unless you are one, I don't know any.

…. and as well as that, he’s nuts! 😁

Yes.😂

I got mine two days ago

Poslední nedokončená Octavia, které chyběly výplně dveří, zmizela z parkoviště - Aktuálně.cz (aktualne.cz) Last incompleted Octavia (because of door panels) was completed in 8th September. So thats the good news. The bad is, they mention at the end of the article there are new problems with the missing parts. Im in contact with one employee from Škoda and they still producing incompleted cars, mostly Kodiaq:

@Frankenfurter +1 for the DCC recalibration as it makes a difference to how float/bouncy the car rides. i didn't know about this recalibration before and only did it 6 months after i had my car lowered on Eibach Pro-kit springs. it rides much much better now. i used OBDEleven to perform mine. i highly recommend any one with DCC and has changed their springs to perform the DCC recalibration procedure.

I have reduced this issue to almost zero. If you unclip the roof liner and put some lanolin grease on the clips then clip it back in this will fix most of the noise. The noise comes form the movement of the roof liner moving as you turn or lean where it clips in. It was driving me insane as well and totally understand.

Congrats to you too The only glitch mine has had so far is that start/stop doesn't work in the morning because I empty the battery each night studying the instructions 😂

Why don't you just put the EGR back temporarily? All this mucking about swapping everything around, what have you ACTUALLY done? Changed the cam and lifters, changed the turbo, deleted the EGR system? Is that it? Let me help you with your mechanic, he'll always tell you to do something stupid that pays well. Guess why?

Yeah that could be the case. Just for some additional geekery, I think the vRS headlining was a bit inconsistent on the older/pre-FL models, with some having the grey headlining that us 'bog standard Fabia peasants' had to live with.

Also those spark plugs from euros are not right you want these that’s probably why your car isn’t working correctly

Thank you for replying to me and the 'hint' that there may be some explanation between the differences in the service setting - I hadn't thought of that. So far as I am aware, the setting has always been for a "fixed" schedule. But, because of Covid lockdown and now the cost of fuel the car has only covered approximately 3000 miles in each of the past three years. Therefore, this begs the question - why has this issue only cropped-up now (total mileage 146,000) and not in 2020, '21 when the distance covered has been similar. If there is some special re-set procedure that I am not aware of, please let me know.

UPDATE 2 - SOLVED Did a factory reset on the SmartLink in the car and i have CarPlay again. Instructions can be found here:

No problem John just to let you know mate I have four unfitted uprated spark plugs gapped at 0.6mm that I was gonna fit at my next service if you need to try anything different you can just give me what I paid for them from OPIE oils (it was a damn site cheaper than what you paid from those stealers)

I wouldn’t put winters on only one axle unless you want to go off the road in a big way. Slowing down and cornering/changing direction are where you would come very unstuck

That's a good way of getting an uncommanded panoramic view of your surroundings.

BLT sets the CEL when the EGR is missing or not working, ASZ does not. I don't know for certain if the ECU limits power with a lit CEL but given your symptoms I think it's likely, what you describe is exactly like limp home mode, especially since the car starts and idles well. You say it's boosting but you might be looking at requested rather than actual and it won't boost at all while stationary so you need to be driving it before you log a pull.

Cheers, was going to download this tonight.

Or koni special actives. They are bloody good. Had them on octy, deisel 4x4 suoerb and now my 272

It's like I'm moving my mouth but no sounds are coming out. You're now at the stage where you're basically ignoring everything I say despite the fact I've been on here for 12 years and used to be in the engine reconditioning trade and have seen more wrecked PD heads than you've had hot dinners. Unless your new cam or followers are damaged they're not the problem. You're at the stage where you're only listening to your internal dialogue, good luck.

camskill are based in the UK. However, I was using that website to give examples. There are plenty of other tyre sellers in the UK and it's always worth shopping around for the best price and service.

Thank you Phil for your input - I drove to Skoda today. A software update was missing but not visible to download in my Enyaq. Only after having factory reset the infotainment system and temporarely removed a fuse fo the lte connection, the relevant update came up to be installed, and after having reentered all my personale settings for the second time within a week (ME 3 upgade resets everything too) everything now works fine 😀

Sounds like the classic TDI failing water pump symptoms to me, get the water pump replaced before it either fails or starts leaking (as one post in the thread I linked to commented 'like a waterfall').

Unless someone knows otherwise, i believe that the only people who can do this are the dealer. I've seen prices of £150 for them to unlock it.

I'll post a photograph of mine when I'm back from Glasgow.

Public charging does really need to be 'tap and pay' and at chargers that have good 'mobile / sim' communication, and in areas with good mobile phone reception 24/7 and some call handlers able to communicate with chargers and start them. That is UK wide, even in rural areas. Especially in rural areas, http://news.sky.com/story/three-out-of-four-electric-vehicle-owners-unhappy-with-uks-public-charging-system-12703655 http://www.zap-map.com/drivers-rate-electric-vehicle-charging-networks-uk ZapMap need to up their game. Too often it takes weeks for them to correct errors on their site when notified. Location, chargers, pricing. months even.

I will check that out today. Thank you.

Bit of cleaning of the absolutely manky inside of it. The centre console and glovebox were full of spilled scuzz. Have only put the drivers seat back in it at the minute. Turbo is done should be back tomorrow.

You can check out the condition of the DPF using this app by a OBD tool like carista https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.applagapp.vagdpf&hl=en_GB&gl=US

Thanks to @Jakester and @IndeedFox for coming back to update the thread, anyone else having the issue will know of a cure for the problem. 🤝

Thanks for the update. Since I had the module replaced on mine (as above date) it's been absolutely spot on. I've had a bike rack on and off several times with everything as it should be. Looks like the dodgy module batch was a genuine thing.

Hey, soon it’s celebration time 🎉🥳 My Octy arrived at the dealers today so picking it up next week as soon as I get the finances sorted. I might take Friday off for to enjoy the full experience 😊 Looks like this little fella is finally getting his key (bought it even before I ordered the car 😊)

The OEM Spare wheels for a Mk2 Fabia fit in the spare tyre well. 185/60 R 15 or 195/55 R 15. A 17" Gigaro with a 205/40 R 17 or even a 215/40 R 17 fits in.

@SanqharRegardless of what you thought it did not only apply to manuals. Luckily your car was not affected then or required any software updates or was part of the Recall. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/505561-if-not-touranzas-then-what/page/2 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506516-karoq-kangerooing

I am such a geek that I had to load the latest Windows 11 (22H2) It was released finally yesterday, though will be up to Q1/Q2 2023 I think before most PC's will get it via Windows update (if supported of course) As usual, plenty of nice useful QOL changes, for me it's getting a new task manager that finally comes with dark mode And there are more options here than ever before. I did find a bug with Windows update where the CU got "stuck" where it would not download/progress Fix was to run Admin Command prompt SFC /ScanNow DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth Sync PC Time Reboot Download the WU manually https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=KB5017321 Apply, reboot Check Windows Update, and it then began downloading and applying the same KB update /Geek off

Think that's what Andy was getting at; the depth of the grooves not being uniform around the disc, so the shallower ones have already worn away. Warping could also account for it, but I reckon that'd be horrendous to drive. Gaz

I'm still on the original 6 year old battery and it still seems to be in good condition. I do use our CTEK MXS 5.0 to condition the battery every six months. No idea if it really does something, but the battery I bought in 2009 for our MKI was still running 11 years later.

The best thing (once cleaned or repaired) is to fit the wheel arch liners that came on later models as standard. Plenty of information on the Up! owner's forum, for part numbers, fitting guides etc.

So anyway, I got my car remapped at Angel Tuning in Banbury, where I'd previously had a remap. (Mondeo 2.2 TDCI) Tom (the owner/operator) asked me what I was looking for. I said I like the linear power delivery of the 190 engine, and basically wanted the power of a vRS 230, without compromising everyday fuel economy more than absolutely required. I know you can get more out of the 190TSI engine, but 230ps is plenty for me, as I'll be using it with no other mods to brakes or suspension. Tom said the changes he made were an increase of +41.3bhp (seems awfully specific, especially as no rolling road was used) and an extra 38.9ftlbs of torque, with the DSG response improved also. It all came to £395. Here's the part where people usually gush about how much more lively and responsive their car is after the remap. Phwoaaar!!!! 😈 However, given that I drive around like a pensioner most of the time, I've only really noticed the extra power a couple of times: Once when applying a little squirt of throttle in high gear, I felt the car push forward a bit more powerfully than previously. (This was in Drive mode) The other time was a quick accelerate from a set of lights down a local dual-carriageway to give the GPF a blow though. It got up to speed quite quickly, but without feeling a sudden kick of power, it was all very progressive and linear, which is what I asked for, I just noticed that I was going faster than I had expected when I checked my speed. (That was in Sport mode) Both of those events was with the car filled with 95 RON, as I wanted the map to be done on 95 so I knew it would run without issues on 95. I've just filled it with Sainsbury's 97 RON, so I'll see how that goes the next time I use my car. (I haven't driven it since Sunday, which is when I filled it up after a run.) I'm off to Wales on holiday soon, so that will be the acid test of what sort of success the remap is. Tom's told me if I'm not happy with it, he's willing to tweak it to suit my needs, which is fair enough. The fuel economy seems to have taken a little hit, but it's early days yet. I know it's easy to assume I've been razzing round enjoying the power, but I really do drive very economically most of the time. 👴 That said, the odd burst of acceleration when joining a motorway may use enough extra fuel to have a noticeable detrimental effect. Hopefully the long drive down to South Wales should give me a better idea of how economical the map is on a run, as well as finding out how the extra power I've got feels when driving around down there on the A-roads, instead of pottering round the West Midlands in busy traffic. If I come across a rolling road session opportunity, I might give it a run on that to see how it measures up. So far, I'm not unhappy with what I've got, but I'm not "Wow! Amazing!" over it either. Which, given I wanted to keep the linear power delivery and I drive economically, is probably how it should be.

Didn’t realise it’d be a bumper off job, made for a nice Sunday afternoon in the sun like

Recently, It was posted information about activation functions like: AA, Mirolink, Carplay, Navi and so on. But that solution could'n activate VIM/MIM (video in motion). New patch was released here, interface more friendly. So if you need to activate these features you will need d-link dub E-100 adapter. Putty and SD card with the patch. Copy folder to SD card, copy folder with the patched files to patch folder (don't delete or rename anything), insert this SD card in your MIB2, Run Putty, Telnet IP:172.16.250.248 port:123 Login:root; password: see here (keep in mind password will not be visible just press enter after you paste it from file) send 2 commands: mount -uw /net/mmx/fs/sda0/ /net/mmx/fs/sda0/start and you will see list of options: press 1 if you need to unlock VIM, then Mib will reboot log in again using Putty, press 3 if you need activate (AA,Carplay, Navi and so on) before patching BU will be created and copied to SD. Video instruction p.s Readme.txt has more infromation about each comand. README.txt

The only thing I would suggest is to completely unpair your phone and factory reset the carplay settings on your infotainment system and retry it. Make sure the phone is disconnected and do it the following way: Firstly on the iphone go to Settings - General - Carplay - Skoda ( or/and any other vehicles ) - Forget this car. Secondly, on your infotainment go to Menu - Settings - Scroll to Factory Reset - Scroll to Individual Factory Reset - Scroll to Mirrorlink and reset it. Then reconnect your device and try it. Remember to select yes if it gives you the option to use Carplay when iphone is locked. Might be worth a try. It could simply be a glitch in the settings.