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Can't tell you about the error code, but the lights coming on with the ignition and then going off with engine running is normal. Start worrying when they come on with the engine running.

You best buy an extended warranty from Skoda / VW, or start a campaign online / on social media to have VW Group / Skoda UK giving an extended warranty free gratis on something they have had several years now to get to grip with snagging faults but they have failed badly with.

I have a 2014 1.4tsi Superb with the previous gen EA111 direct injection engine - 109kmiles and still runs as well and as economically as when I bought it nearly new. Hopefully that means all is well re carbon thus far. I drove the 1.6tdi version of the same car (both manual) and I thought it was awful in comparison to drive. Sluggish and noisy . Before you decide I'd test drive both versions.

as ords said it is normal for EPC and check Engine lights be on when ignition is on but engine off, and as soon as the engine is on they should go off. For the P036600 error- Camshaft Position sensor "B" Circuit, Bank 1 Range/Performance, most probably is the camshaft sensor. Check if the wiring is connected to the sensor. If the sensors is faulty it shouldn't be that much expensive to change maybe £50 to £150.

Might be worth also looking at the all-in-one You get a major and minor service, 2 MOTs, 2 years breakdown cover and 2 years warranty cover for not much more than cost of the services (so warranty is virtually free) There has been couple of months where there was 20% off, but hasn’t been discounted since last summer. Perhaps the discounted price was too good to be true. Just remembered, the assistance and warranty also covers travel to Europe which might be useful if you go abroad and something fails

^^^^^ This plus suspension lift.

Yes. I mean the subframe's already been pulled apart once, and now it's rusty and weakened...

Mine has been built and currently in Emden port awaiting a ship to Ireland... should have it by end of month hopefully.

EVO car of 2022

Don't even think about it!

Yes I get that and the initial business case / marketing / 'prestige' rubbish that a lot of people seem to buy into is the main factor but surely there is a market for 'normal' performance EVs with bigger batteries... Efficiency is king but a big battery with a big power output in a big heavy vehicle is less efficient than the alternative big battery with smaller power output in a smaller vehicle regardless - so surely that is what we should, as consumers, be asking and pressing for. And why not pay £50k plus for a Ford if it's 'better value' than a £50k prestige brand where all you are really paying for is the badge and a load of kit you might never use (in my opinion anyway as I'd never afford / spend £50k on a vehicle anyway!). Personally I think the Koreans and Chinese will soon cotton on and corner the market for bigger battery / lower power / longer range EVs - if they haven't already!

Not getting into any arguments of "if" and "when", but not all Yeti pano roofs leak, there is no doubt an issue at VAG they will not admit to, and a lot of peeps moaning about them (not all) have never owned a Yeti with one but keep repeating the doom and gloom. Ours has been fine (2016 L&K) but it is something you should be aware off. Check carefully for signs of a leak if viewing one.

so after a night of trying various articles from the websites provided and safe mode on the phone I was still getting the same issue...... however, @nickytheshaft you are a genius! I feel proper stupid now mind you but you are a genius! For whatever reason I have always been trying this from phone to car, tried this morning at school drop off to do car to phone and voila! Calls work and audio works...... I will unpair and try again in a while but I have never got this far and now assume I was just being silly and doing it backwards (should work though right? :)) Thanks again for all the help and advice everyone !!!!!!

Easier still... Refer autodoc to the official Koni page. http://j13187.servers.jiffybox.net/com/en/finder/skoda/superb/superb-combi-3

The hydraulic power steering system on the MK1 Octavia is not going to "randomly and violently pull to the left and right" The clue is in the report that the steering wheel is no longer in the straight ahead position when driving in a straight (aside from the right & left deviations) line. You should not drive the vehicle until the cause has been identified and repaired, were the worse to happen what you have posted in the public domain would change a terrible accident into reckless and deliberate endangerment.

Hi BertH To put some figures on it for 2010 (pre-facelift) cars: Panda 1.2 75 ft-lbs torque 60 BHP 0-62 in 14.0 seconds Yeti 1.2 129 ft-lbs torque 105 BHP 0-62 in 11.8 seconds Yeti 1.4 147 ft-lbs torque 122 BHP 0-62 in 10.5 seconds Yeti 1.8 184 ft-lbs torque 160 BHP 0-62 in 8.4 seconds (4x4) I'd say the Panda is the anaemic one ! The effect of mild turbocharging is to increase the torque by typically 50 to 75 %, or to put in another way a Turbo 1.2 will "feel" roughly like a non-turbo 1.8. In practice it's even more favourable as the torque is developed at lower RPM. This more than makes up for the extra weight of the Yeti. A test drive will demonstrate it better than I can describe. When I bought my 1.4 in 2012 none of the local dealers had a 1.4 demonstrator, and all were very keen to push Diesel. We test drove a 1.2 and it was fine, but chose the 1.4 for a bit of margin when laden with camping kit. Never regretted that decision, and manage 42 mpg.

I think with a 1.8 and a sunroof you will have picked the two biggest bad points of owning a Yeti.🤭 Good Luck😎

I don't think it's a problem here - don't think the budget of £10k would be enough for a later 1.5tsi.

That's fantastic detail and the main reason for joining this forum.. Many Thanks for taking the time to post this. You'll have to excuse my ignorance on such matters. My Audi did have it done during my ownership but that was due to my Mechanics insistence rather than my knowledge. I would love to try this as it looks fairly straightforward..... but I'm fearful of making a mess of it. Thanks again for taking the time to reply!!

IIRC, all 'sealed for life' lead-acid vehicle batteries are valve regulated (VRLA) type now - they are designed to vent through the valve if abused.

Cars after i think September 2015 diesels are euro 6. May be wrong . Regarding petrol only thing that worries me is carbon build up

I’ll try running the engine a bit with filler cap off. I did notice fumes coming out when I removed filler cap though, after shutting off the engine, but it was very mild. Could it be PCV valve?

To be ULEZ compliant, a diesel has to be to Euro 6 standard which was introduced in Sept 2016 for cars. 11k a year is not much for a diesel engine. Of course, it depends on your style of driving. I'm running a 1.6 DSG diesel and the two compliment each other. No issues with the DSG.

P.S. make sure and remove the vent blocking plug from the new battery before you install it.

I reckon it'll be fine as-is. I'll PM you to wheech the money in your direction soon.

@Markbro My car is FWD. I was going to post the link to the Koni page but @Gabrielem beat me to it. If you look up Superb 3 on www.koniuk.co.uk the number quoted for front special actives is 8745-1388 as well:

In theory for the main infotainment software 1896, all the updates after *should* be OTA (or a version close to this.) Other radio firmwares again are trying to go OTA also, for other Infotainment systems. As for charging, time = money, and main dealers will change (unless some push from VAG - unlikely) Independent workshops will be able to flash all of the car's control modules and do all the same work as a main dealer, the exception being is they don't have easy access at all to infotainment updates, they *might* be able to order a USB stick from TPS, or they might have a friendly main dealer who will supply the files needed (again unlikely) Bottom line, dealers have access to infotainment updates, independent workshops, usually no.

Cheers for that, now I know my door switch isn't working too 😂😂😂 I presume I must have an additional split cable or fuse I need to check. Back to the drawing board but thanks anyway 😂

You have the latest version. MHI2_ER_SKG13_P4526_1440.7z

This stuff today in the news on EV's out selling Diesels in the UK in 2022, or First Registrations is a bit of kidology. It is cars with Plugs the CEO of the SMMT likes to speak about. Lots of Hybrids are a p!ss take really. They can make sense and people do like them. Like the Range Rover Evoque owners yesterday that plugged in for a free 15 minutes charging at the supermarket and went away with the car still plugged in and not charging for their appointment wherever. Lots are just using electric day to day and not needing to run on petrol. Lots are not. http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-64165689 http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-64149130

The larger the battery, the easier it is to have higher power output. Small battery cannot do high power flow (in and out) due to it would have a C rating exceeded its capability. Unlike ICE cars, putting a higher power motor into large battery car doesn't significantly increase the cost. The "logic" (not saying it's right, just speculating why) is that battery are expensive, if you put large battery, might as well make the car into a "prestige vehicle" so that it can remotely worth the asking price. Case in point, who in their right mind would pay for a £50k+ Ford? I still think efficiency is king. Any EV, as long as it was designed with efficiency in mind and is one of the most efficient in its class, it's a good one. Greta is 20 now?! I always thought her as mid-teens campaigning on behalf of children. Time flies!

Just to draw a line under this thread in case anyone else has the same problem........ It seems to have been a combination of things. I used the on-line facility 'freeconvert.com/wav-to-mp3' to bulk convert all the ripped tracks to MP3 and then used the free download MP3tag to tag all the tracks with artist, album and track titles, Then, crucially it seems, I formatted the car SD card and copied all my original music folders which I have stored on PC and the newly ripped, converted and tagged music folders back onto the car SD card and all were then recognized by the infosystem and play perfectly. Thanks for all the help and advice along the way - much appreciated.

So here are the results I got. Brand new "Sandisk Ultra Dual Drive Go USB Type C 64GB" Formatted ExFat 4096 bytes (Interesting that when formatting SanDisk Ultra Class 10 SD card didn't give me the option of 4096 only 8192?? Just tried it again and same??) Computer is a Dell XPS 15 9560 running Win 10 Pro Hope this all means something to you 🤔 Dave

Ours is a March 21 which seems to be referred to as a 206kw but is also referred to as a 280 - was under the impression it’s different to the 272… has 7speed wet clutch. Def prefer the L&K look especially if subtlety is a requirement but not as if the Sportline is garish. Agree with previous comments that some features like digital dash were rarely specked on Sportlines from what I could find. As for sunroof my previous was a Kia Sportage and the panoramic roof was fine. That’s a difference between hatch and estate - former has sunroof, latter has panoramic.

Hello dodd Gaz

Yep. My superb mk2 is from June 2015. Last series of mk2. Hmmm, I saw bixenon without high additional beam in vcds central electronics 9-long coding helper..

@nikasp Are you having an issue with a CTHE Twincharger? Is it just the EPC light on, or that and the Engine (Exhaust Emissions) Lights. Is this just recent or what is the story / history?

That is also EPDM rubber. All hoses which will be in contact with anti-freeze should be epdm. I made a mistake and bought non EPDM for a short piece replacement. Luckily I've learned about that important detail only days later. I removed that part from system immediately. Hose interior was looking rough sanded. Coolant eats regular rubber hoses. Tried & tested. I changed the coolant after that.

Please only use English on Briskoda. 👍

The 1.4 engine is a peach. I had the 122 hp in an Octavia, and the 150hp variant in a Yeti (L&K). I averaged over 40mpg (actual) with the Yeti over the 4 years I had it. Simply loved the car, had a "minor" problem with the sunroof which was cured by replacing a "kinked" drain pipe, and then gluing them all in position. However it was alway a concern after reading some of the issues some members on the forum have had. After reading all the stuff regarding the 1.8 engine problems I would never consider buying one, and if I was buying another Yeti I would also now avoid one with a sunroof. Problem is I think the "later" 1.4's are all L&K spec which come with a pan roof as standard, (mine was a 2015 model), not sure about the spec of the "older" 1.4 models. Before I changed the Yeti I did try a 1.2 as I really fancied an auto and I found the 1.2 a perfectly acceptable drive, but in the end I really wanted something newer and the 2nd hand prices where getting silly particularly for the last of the 2017 cars... ...good luck in hunt, but if you can I would stay away from the 1.8, and ideally anything with a pan roof, (IMHO). Only problem is Yeti's do seem to be at a premium so prices are still a bit on the silly side?

The 1.4 TSI is fine. Try one.

Welcome. Looking through the Yeti section is a good start, and look a bit closer at 1.8 TSI,s and possible issues. There are bound to be good ones, but are those that have them selling those. eg Some negative stuff on 1.8TSI's. Not overblown on the internet / forums though. You need to do research. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509351-should-i-buy-a-yeti-with-issues

You have no choice, apart from scrolling to a different screen as has already been said.

One thing is for sure, the information that are fed to public are always simplified for consumption. Not everyone understand everything, so it's reasonable to encounter simplifications from reality (eg. the way electricity flows in a circuit). Whether that means there is a false narrative, I don't think so, but you are free to believe whatever you wish. It will be a membership cost for how many sockets in-use at once, no limit to number of cars. 2 cars can be charged via 1 socket membership same way as 2 cars share 1 home charger. Idea is that eventually EVERY parking space will have a charger socket available. Either via lampposts now or later via other type of infrastructure. It wouldn't matter where you park, you can plug in overnight. The thinking is that the monthly cost is to access near-home public charger at discount rate similar to those rates available to home chargers. Essentially the monthly cost is to pay for installation, maintenance and admin of those public chargers. A standing charge if you will. For example, current best EV tariff is 10p/kWh for overnight, it controls your car's charging depending on grid conditions, you tell it departure time. With a 1 socket membership of £20 per month, you can access a socket that will charge overnight in same way at similar price. You tell it your departure time and it manages charging. So inequality evaporates. Driveway owners pay equivalent of ~4 years subscription up front to install their home charger. Road-side owners pay the subscription. Both access the same or similar priced electricity and most importantly both are able to lend their car to the grid to support cheap renewables' fluctuations. Key barrier here is that government need to recognise this type of charging as domestic at 5% VAT rate same as home electricity use. All other barriers are technical. Essentially, original point of thread is similar to this campaign: https://www.faircharge.co.uk/

Had the suspension noise checked out on a very wet Friday, of course the noise had disappeared 😐 They checked everything underneath and suspect its front top mounts. I am planning a big suspension refresh at some point when money allows. From research I am thinking: Bilstein B4's Eibach Pro Springs Genuine VAG front topmounts Meyle HD droplinks @Ecomatthas recently confirmed B4's with Eibach springs are a great combo so it's what I am aiming for. As the weather started changing recently and the colder temps have come in the stop/start functionality hasn't been working. I suspected the battery was getting low but the car was starting fine and I had no warning lights. I came out from work one day to find it not starting and the battery dead. Luckily a colleague with a Toyota Aygo had jump leads and there was just enough juice to get it jumped to get it home 😂 Halfords charged me £147 for fitting and coding a new 5 year battery, this was discounted with a trade card. Unfortunately there didn't seem to be any options other than dealer at £270! So many on Facebook groups recommended not getting it coded but I wanted to make sure it was working correctly, assuming Halfords did it correctly 🤷‍♂️ Lastly, I bought some cheap foam sticky back insulation from eBay for a tenner for the boot. Not amazing but I think my poorly tuned ears can detect a slight improvement at motorway speeds. I started by cutting out a shape for the hardboard on the carpet and split at the seam it so I can open it as normal. Then put some around the edges up to the edge of the carpet that cover the wheel arches ensuring I leave a flap for the boot sticker.

It is quite common for quite a few jobs to have to visit a site 200+ miles away at short notice. As it's short notice, you are highly unlikely to be able to get a room for the night. My diesel has often and recently got 600 miles from a tank, which enabled me to get to site, fix the issue and get home before filling up. With destination (and most) charging being in such a state, there is no way 200 miles is sufficient. That is before you take into account that a 300 miles summer range is a 200 mile winter range. If they make a car with a 60-80kWh battery, which can do 450-500 miles (or more), then you're onto a winner. That will only happen by making them low drag, lower mass (reduce body weight and also minimise the battery). If you restrict battery cars to 200 or even 300 miles, then a reasonably large chunk of drivers (those who need a diesel for range), will need an alternative to a BEV, such as hydrogen. Personally I'd be very happy with a 250-300 mile BEV and a longer range Hydrogen car. You're correct you don't need to make it solar for new builds, but I can imagine a fair few flats in build up areas adding a wind turbine might annoy the residents New build however if the land is big enough, you could stick wind in a corner, solar on the roof (PV or heat) and be in a much better place than today.

I don't have an EV and don't do high mileage but would prefer to use a faster charger as time is precious. Whilst it is possible to stretch out a coffee break (slightly), any toilet breaks definitely don't need so much time to be allocated to them. 😉

There is a public charging hub in Edinburgh where EV Vans are having their tyres slashed because the vans are hogging chargers and the bosses are not being firm enough with the daft employees that could not give a damn. In Angus i Emailed the Convenor of Angus Council & other Senior staff and councillors when there were staff parking vans or cars on the very limited public chargers over holiday times. 100 yards away was the Council chargers that the public could not use.

Applied sound deadening to the rear seat deck, boot floor and rear wheel arches. A lot of work but thankfully the results were worth the effort! The Scorpion resonated system sounds great, but when I went to stage 2 and added the downpipe (with sports cat) I started experiencing some resonance and sound pressure from the exhaust in the cabin at motorway speeds, around 2,500rpm. This has now been drastically reduced, as has general road noise and vibration. The downside is that I’ve added around 10kg of weight to the car, but I can now enjoy the exhaust tone and intake noise again - at one point I was considering returning to the stock system Some measurements I took with the Decibel X app show how effective the sound proofing’s been even at idle: Before Cold start 70dB Cold idle 67dB Warm idle 60dB After Cold start 64dB Cold idle 60dB Warm idle 55dB I used a layer of Noico 80mil sound deadening mats: https://www.ebay.co.uk/.../Noico-80-mil-36.../402289973761 Followed by a layer of Noico 150mil sound proofing sheets: https://www.ebay.co.uk/.../Noico-RED-150-mil.../402677036211