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JR seemed to have diagnosed this; "The noise could equally be the tin foil backplate having rusted and fractured at the mounting points, that corresponds more with your description"

Finally received my OBDeleven dongle today. After a moderate 3 hours of mucking around I got it going.Pretty typical of most things today. However it was totally worth it. Fake engine noise is gone. Bliss.

Winter mode. Lowered little with h&r adjustable springs and 10mm spacers on 18inch wheels

Hi folks. Just joined the group, after owning the car since February 2022. I would like to share a picture of a vRS Combi in Silver color, just in case someone wants to see it in a less-rainy day as UltraRunner showed us 2 years ago ! Note that I ordered it without the roof rails (which I never use...) as this opion was then available in Spain. Hasta pronto.

I should also mention this car has been named... It's so good, it's actually terrible... Wait for it... Franz FORDinand.

Adds risk (of shearing one off for example) to change ones that aren't faulty, I wouldn't.

Finally picked up the Karoq today despite the weather’s best efforts to thwart me 😆 I didn’t get a photo at the dealership as it was bitter cold to say the least and then by time I got home the car was completely covered road grime and salt so obviously I had to give it a quick wash 🥶😂 Here’s the only photo to date, a less than glamorous shot of it on the drive post-wash in failing light, I’m sure I’ll be spamming this thread with more in the future…

Nobody was right. The problem was a loose anchorplate on one of the front wheels. This is the plate that protects the caliper and disc against mud and dirt from the inside. It was rusted through where the bolts were fixing it in place. This caused it to scrape on the disk. The brakes were fine.

I think I'm going to go for the MOT elsewhere and then the service at the main dealer. If I was going to keep the car, I'd just go independent, but given I might not, I think there might be value in full main dealer service history (although quite why people value this, I'll never know), I'd always take a good indie service history over a main dealer if buying, I think it shows that the owner has given some thought to the service history.

Just to update, this has been fixed. Hooray! Had a new steering wheel.

The fact that one has now gone metal to metal and will be destroying the disc, probably the inner pad. Toot has given good advice, you should heed it and not become adversary. The noise could equally be the tin foil backplate having rusted and fractured at the mounting points, that corresponds more with your description, again it needs inspecting with the wheel removed not visually through the wheel.

On ST XA coilovers in the Scottish Borders 👍

If you look at the link in my post earlier today, it mentions doing basic settings with vcd's or similar and then adjusting the headlights with the adjusters on the headlight housing. Even if you can't see the sensors (if they exist) for whatever reason, the wiring should be visible.

It's not impossible, model years (MY) start around July/August so a car produced from about July/August 2017 to July/August 2018 would be a 2018 MY Anywho, relevant section of the wiring diagram is below. I would expect your car to be covered under 'For models with no electric damping control' which implies both sensors should be present. If the OP is feeling handy, they could always check the BCM connector to see if those pins are populated. I was somewhat surprised to discover the level sensors now connect to the BCM rather than the headlight range module though...

I have the electrical workshop manual which suggests it is possible to only have a rear sensor. This is what it says. Unfortunately I don’t have the Chassis manual. “1.18 Vehicle level sensor -G78- front left or -G76- rear left The vehicle level senders are an integral part of the headlight range. The assembly work is described in the Workshop Manual ⇒ Chassis. Note Depending on model year and country variant, the variant may also only have a vehicle level sender at rear. ♦ Sensor for vehicle level front left -G78- ⇒ Axles, steering; Rep. gr. 43; sensor for vehicle level ♦ Sensor for vehicle level rear left -G76- ⇒ Axles, steering; Rep. gr. 43; sensor for vehicle level “

My car has LED cront and back, that for sure..no headlight range leveller inside the car.. VIN is TMBBC7NE9J0155483. The garage guy said he never saw many cars with level sensors except bmw and lexus. (Probably he didn't work with too many cars?

I have all the workshop manuals, but ideally if your car is a keeper, and you plan to do a fair bit of your own repairs, erWin Skoda costs 7 Euros for an hour. As I don't always have the time to chase up dozens of pages. 🤝

Have a read here about AdBlue https://procarmanuals.com/self-study-program-540-scr-exhaust-gas-treatment-passat-2015-design-function/

Bought it of eBay mate, it's fabia mo te Carlo steering wheel, it comes without airbag but my original fits plug and play

Hello Wanderer. I just joined the group after many months of getting help and advices from all of you, so I would also like to help if I can. The screen setup that you are showing is one of the Home screens. You can have 2,3 or 4 Home screens, that are selected by scrolling the screen from one side to the opposite. You can imagine every screen as a rectangular grid of 5x3 slots, where you can tile different widgets of different sizes (exactly like an smartphone). In your Home screen you have a 2x2 widget “Music” at top left, a 1x1 widget “Car” at bottom left, a 1x1 “Phone”, and a 3x3 “Navigation” at right. Note: For each Home screen, you can setup your preferred layout (but unfortunately, every widget can only be used one time, not repeated in different screens). I will be pleased to explain how to edit these setups later on if you like. Coming back to your question: pressing any of these 4 widgets will send you to a full-screen menu “Music”, “Car”... that (at least in my car) it will remain shown at full-screen permanently and every time you start the car, unless you press a different one, or press the “Home/Menu icons at the left”. So, pressing the “Music” widget will get you to a screen where you can select “Favorites”, “Radio” or “Multimedia”. Pressing then “Radio” you will get a vertical list of all the radio stations available, where you can select the one to listen. If you prefer to have a screen with the logos of your Favourite radio stations, you just need to “fill” this screen previously. It is very easy: - go to the “Radio” screen and select the station you want to save in favourites - press the “Favourites” icon (Star) at the top left of the menu. It will take you to an initially empty array of icons. - press the “+” icon on the upper row. at right The station will be saved as Favourite and it will be shown as a Logo. - repeat the operation with all the stations that you want to have as favourites. Scroll from right to left if you need more than 7, as they will be hidden. The “+” button on the bottom line cannot be used to save Radio stations. It can only be used to save Multimedia Favourites (Artist, Album...). This way you will have 7 visible Radio shortcuts (and many more if you scroll horizontally), and that screen will remains always on, as I explained before. Sometimes you will notice that the screen changes on its own and only shows a full-screen logo of the current Radio station. Don’t worry, you just need to press “Favorites” button at top left (more direct than pressing “Home”). If you prefer, you can also press the small icon at bottom left (a sort of window with an arrow pointing right), or even scrolling to the right the full screen pressing a sort of “tab button” that appears at the middle left. I don’t like this full screen scrolling because very often it doesnot scroll but selects a different menu, depending on where I put my finger. Of course once you have set as “Favourites” several Radio stations, you can delete or re-arrange them. You just need to enter in “Edit mode” by pressing the “Pencil” button at top right, and a “Tray” icon will appear in all Logos. To re-arrange, long-press and drag the icon to your preferred position. Rmember to exit Edit mode when you’re done! As I told you, you can configure up to 4 Home screens, with a different widget setup for each one. Just ask me if necessary. I’m sorry for having taken too long to explain. I mentally translate from Spanish and I tend to write very long sentences... Hasta pronto!

It sound like there's an issue with the level sensor.

If the fan continues after you switch off, it's likely to be because the DPF was doing a regen which it hadn't completed before you stopped. I suggest that for the other issue, you get the car scanned.

Interesting discussion on the point of which wheels to put the new tyres on. My wife's CityGo handbook says put new tyres on front..

Free charging still available in South Ayrshire for now, but more 50kW chargers would be handy. Introducing fees and time limits for the tax payer funded chargers is OK as long as they can be depended on IMO. Today there was a Technician at the Girvan Harbour rapid which has been out of service for 6 months now. Hopefully that will be up and running again as the 2 7kW chargers were not working but thankfully Swarco / CPS had the Tethered AC back operating.

I can also confirm that the official fix from Skoda includes a replacement of the Steering Wheel. I am still waiting in line at my dealer to get it replaced but hopefully this is the final fix.

We are similar - Kodaiq and a Swift Hybrid (plus a toy for summer). The vast majority of our trips are done in the Swift except for longer journeys and journeys in weather like we have now, when the Kodaiq is used but I am think that as and when the Swift is passed to my daughter, or needs replacing, we'll look at a small EV with sufficient range for my regular work trips of 100 miles or so.

This is one of the signs of the nylon gears on the flap motor are jammed or slipping. You may need to change the appropriate flap motor. Terminal 30 is a high current supply from the battery and goes to many fuses. So if you have corrosion in its feed or output connection this give this fault code. You have not put your model, model year, or country detail below your name so I have to guess you are in Scandinavia, Iceland or a Baltic state as you also have an auxiliary heater (almost unknown in the UK). Disconnect the battery then look at the bottom of the fuseboard in the engine bay. Some people have reported corrosion on the bottom of the printed circuit board board and the connections to the fuses. Failure of a supply from terminal 30 will account for many of the symptoms mentioned Once we have the details of your car I am sure someone will come along with further help based on your particular car's wiring diagram.

Like anything else it’s horses for courses. we have a Kodiaq and a MG ZS EV in our household. 99% of our journeys are done in the MG, it’s great for my wife’s 10 mile commute, and ferrying the kids about to where they need to go and general pootling about at weekends. if we are going away anywhere whether it’s down to England or up to the Highlands that’s where the Kodiaq steps in and does it’s job. the infrastructure is nowhere near there for the majority of people to use EVs as their sole or primary mode of transport but it will get better. as usual on the internet, it’s full of people who think the entire concept is trash because it wouldn’t fit their needs, but everyone has different needs for what they want or need their car to do. If you never leave the city and have a drive, an EV even at current infrastructure is perfect, even with rising electricity costs it’s still cheaper than ICE to run and easy to maintain.

It's fruitless. Let me tell you my experience. I ordered the car in July 2021 (1.5 TSI petrol with minor extras) and in June 2022, after being almost one year without any information, I decided to try to get the information about the status of my order through another channel. I contacted our Embassy in Prague and they provided me a contact of a person. It was more like a person who knew the person, but it happened that the person (3rd one) worked within the Skoda company on a managerial position. I got the order number (the one that is provided from the dealer / importer to the factory) and gave it to that person to get any info on the status of the order. That person (3rd ) tried on various occasions to get information- without any success. But the interesting thing happened, in the customer department of Skoda, they were ****ed off with that and almost instantly contacted the importer about the situation and told what happened (that some 3rd person was inquiring about my order). Their response, being annoyed, was practically instant but they could not provide to me any information whatsoever in almost a year about my car! I was informed of reaching out by the factory to the importer by the car dealer where I placed the order. After that, I gave up altogether; I thought if the insider on a managerial position was not successful in acquiring info, nobody would. I decided to wait as long as necessary. Then in August 2022 I was informed by the car dealer that the build date was provisioned in September, and then it was built and delivered in beginning of October 2022 after almost 15 months of waiting. As you can see they (Skoda ) can respond swiftly (customer department) if they want but mostly if they are bothered/poked themselves but do not care much giving away any info to us waiting for so long.

No need to worry Yogi, that certainly didn't come over as being insulting. 100% true that there's nothing we can do about it, well there is one thing - keep out ICE until the tech becomes better. I believe current thought is plug-in will still be available until 2035 which is an option albeit an expensive one. But it's your 250+ mile journeys I take issue with. Right at this moment, given the current weather, I wouldn't want to be travelling over 150miles in an Enyaq 60 before range anxiety set in. And if we just look at this morning's news of holdups on motorways in freezing conditions - what happens if you're subjected to many hours in the car and the battery charge is low? I can still have my heater on in an ICE and in those conditions, if I did run out, I carry a spare gallon of petrol in the boot. What does an Enyaq driver do? It'd be freaking me out. I'll be waiting until the technology improves before I'd be comfortable with an EV.

Have anyone tried to contact factory? Are there any use of such actions? Because i have ordered car (1,5 tsi) 19 months ago, and i don't have any information whatsover, the latest build date was week 8, which have passed almost 2 weeks ago. Skoda is such piece of 💩 brand.

I had the new steering wheel a couple a weeks ago as well , and had no errors since.

I used an SD 64 card (size of this card may affect operation) and downloaded music as MP3s no problem. Some larger SD cards used to give problems.

Cheers guys, I think you're right and I'm probably past any point where I need to worry but to play it safe, might just have to plan on doing a heap of overtaking :). I've had a few new company cars and have never even thought of doing this and they've always worked perfectly regardless of not being babied. I appreciate all the help

Nothing was broken the gear change from secondto third had a slight jerk which is gone since the change.

I don't have Led, just regular halogen lights

Fair point, we got off topic so I'll resist any further comment about the music...or maybe open another thread.

Just started to watch this one, it should be a doozy!!

I find that VAG diesels from the last 2 decades are not run in until at least 200000 miles.

Thank you. I have contacted these guys and I got a very welcoming response. Hi, the rear bumper is different on the VRS but there are no problems installing to it. The best towbar that is actually available at the moment is the Oris detachable It would be £773.92 installed at your address including the software update. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-kodiaq-suv-2016-onwards-oris-detachable-towbar-en.html I will go ahead with these guys considering Skoda main dealer said they ant fit one as they do not have the "codes to re program the ECU, they are not available for my car"

My users manual says: Parking brake can be used as emergency brake in case of failure of main brake system. Pull the switch as shown and hold it (warning will be heard), vehicle will stop as quickly as possible. Braking will be interrupted if the switch is released or accelerator pressed. Use the function of emergency brake only in case of real emergency and there is no response of brake pedal.

Hi, I am totally new to this forum but I am at my wit’s end and would appreciate any advice. My Dad, who lives in Essex, has a 4 year old Karoq sportline which he has kept in immaculate condition and has always been serviced and MOT’d by his local service dealership. A few months ago, he discovered that his boot was full of water and ever since, water is streaming in down all the windows and the roof, making the seats constantly wet and now, mouldy. It used to take him around 30 minutes just to clear all water so that he could see to drive. He is 83, has lung cancer and struggles to breathe at the best of times and this process exhausted him. I hit the internet and found loads of issues with water ingress in Karoq’s, therefore we contacted the dealership and they were not interested at all as it was out of warranty, there ‘was nothing in the literature about this problem’ and accused us of trying to emotionally manipulate them as Dad was poorly and because he needed the car for hospital appointments. We gave up with them and took it to a great local garage who said ‘we’ve seen this problem loads of times, you definitely need to take it to Skoda and hold them accountable’. We still had no luck with the dealership but they said we could book it in with them in 6 weeks time and it would be £100 an hour just to look at it! We wrote and rang Head Office who looked into it but came back and said there was nothing they could do. We then went back to the local garage and just said to fix it. They came three times to try and collect it, but couldn’t budge it because it wouldn’t start. They changed the battery which didn’t work, then plugged a diagnostic tool in which said there was extensive electrical damage throughout the whole car and told Dad it was an official write off and to contact his insurance company. Dad contacted them today, only to be told that ‘it sounds like it’s fixable’ so they wouldn’t accept the claim. We are now left with a heap of metal on the drive which he spent £30,000 on 4 years ago. The car is completely immaculate on the outside, but completely defunct on the inside. What on earth can we do next as we feel like there are no more options left? Sorry to prattle on but I’m so upset at Skoda not admitting to anything. Thank you very much.

Be sure its not in a "tourist-mode"... driving on the left or right side of the road. Should be in your infotainment.

It is amazing; I'm not sure I totally believe it... surely one would have been written off in an accident by now? They're certainly pretty solid beasts though 🙂 I'm fairly sure I read that Skoda sold less than 200 v6 mk2 Superbs in total - which I'm also slightly dubious about!

"I do like to be beside the seaside.............."

Here's an update for everyone: Firstly thank you everyone for your help and insight, with that being said, I was able to replace and code the battery on my own. 😁 The only real thing that I think can hold anyone back from doing this is either a lack of an OBDII scanner with coding abilities, a wrench with an extension or two and determination. A local garage quoted me at £20 to fit a battery but when I asked if this included coding they said no. The other was a Varta specialist going for around £40 up to £80 just to fit one in. Halfords had their own brand EFB battery at £186.99 plus £27.99 fitting. 🤯 So with that being said let's go over it. I have a 2017 Skoda Superb MkIII fitted with an OEM Banner EFB 6R0 915 105 B 12V 69Ah 360A DIN battery. The main key points are the battery type, EFB, the capacity 69Ah and the dimensions, length: 275 mm, width: 175 mm and height: 190 mm. I realised my battery was dying/dead when I had the error message "Manoveure braking unavailable" pop up time over time and then one day it wouldn't crank without the help of a jump starter. It wouldn't even hold any charge even when charged with a trickle charger. 6 years, low miles over Covid (still low miles now) and plenty of cold winter starts probably killed the battery. I ordered the ever popular Varta AGM E39 12V 70Ah 760A 570 901 076 D86 2 battery for £145 including next day delivery. One reason I picked Varta is because it's also an OEM choice battery found in some other VAG vehicles. The key differences are that it is an AGM type battery, the capcity is 70Ah and that it is slightly longer at 278mm but the same width: 175mm and height: 190mm. The extra 3mm is nothing to be concerned about. It arrived next day from Tayna and was pretty much fully charged when I tested it with my trickle charger. From what I understand an AGM type battery should last three times as long as a regular battery, compared to an EFB type when compared to a regular battery which only lasts twice as long. The only issue is that AGM batteries don't like heat - hence why there is a thermal battery sleeve in the Superb. The other thing that needs doing is that changing from an EFB to an AGM type battery needs coding. I originally got the OBDeleven when it was on sale with a voucher, however at the time you could get free credits (not anymore) but in order to do any coding or adaptations you'll need a Pro subcription. So you're looking at just under £100 together in order to do it (the OBD2 device is £60 and the 1 year Pro plan is £50 separately). This together can really put someone off, nearly did for me, but it can save some money clearing codes, diagnosing faults on the car, service intervals, and in my case when I managed in a very roundabout way of getting Pro, save money. That and you need a 10mm and a 13mm sockets with a wrench and extension bar. As @BillyParkersays, it took longer to get the battery swapped over than coding it in. You first disconnect the negative terminal first by loosening the 10mm socket, then loosen the postive terminal and move them aside - it can take a lot of loosening and nudging to remove the terminals from the battery. I wasn't keen on the idea of using a screw driver to wedge loose the terminals so that's probably where I took the longest. At the front of the battery there is a bracket with a 13mm bolt that you can undo with the extension bar (in my case I used two) and the removed the bracket which can be finnicky. But once that is out, you'll need to pull the battery towards you so it leaves the battery tray mounts at the rear, then you can remove the thermal battery sleeve, and then carefully lift the whole battery out - it was pretty heavy especially when you're leaning forwards and you have to be cafeul that you don't want to drop it on the car panels. I used the plastic cover from the positive end of the new battery to cover the old one - there is also a plastic nub that I used to seal up the old battery to stop any leaking. Give it a clean at the bottom of the battery tray - there are several mounting holes you can use but I can't imagine anyone using a smaller battery. then lift and insert the new one into the bottom battery mounts and push until it's fully in. Here I put the thermal sleeve on but I imagine it might've been easier to put the sleeve on first then push it into position. When you're connecting the new battery, do it in reverse, connect the positive terminal and then the negative. I got a few sparks when trying to seat the negative terminal but once it's in there wasn't anything to be afraid of. Then you can add the battery bracket and hand tighten them all. That's the hard part done. The next part was coding, I turned the ignotion on and instantly nearly every warning light came on - low tyre pressure light, brake disc fault, hill hold disabled, start stop disabled, cruise control disabled, auto parking brake error, steering angle error, digital radio antenna fault, emergency SOS fault and so on. Kinda scary. I connected my OBDeleven to the car and went straight to code the new battery in, tapping onto Control Unit, Gateway 19, Adaptation, then Battery Adaptation, where you are presented with your old battery settings. Incidentally a lot of it wasn't accurate, I had a Banner battery which was labelled as JCB instead of BA2 and the Battery serial number was just 1111111111. The only correct things were the Rated battery capacity at 69 Ah and the Battery technology EFB. So this is where you need the Pro version of OBDeleven, which has a green checkmark on the bottom right which you hold to save your new values, otherwise you're faced with a red padlock and needing to splash out £50 or so. Thankfully I was about to get around this and save myself a bunch. So the new settings I added were 70Ah, changed the last digit on the Battery serial number to 1111111110 (10 digits, doesn't really matter what), changed the Battery manufacturer to Varta's code VA0 (or VAO, it apparently doesn't matter which one as long as it doesn't flag up an error) and the new Battery technology Fleece. Tap and hold the green button (at this point I should at looked for a test on the app but didn't) and then turned on the engine. I did a full lock left to right (which instantly cleared one or two faults) and then did a little drive. The engine turned over instantly and the steering and acceleration felt a lot more tighter. When I next stopped I turned the engine off, key out of the ignition, then open and shut door, key back in and only turn on the ignition - I cleared all the remaning faults and then it was all good. I even silenced the Superb's remote liftback beeps while I was at it. So thanks everyone, and if anyone is interested in doing it themselves I hope this helps, given this new experience. 😁

Finally, the day has come, and the car has arrived at the dealer. Delivery due within 4-5 days. I can't really express what I feel now. The order was placed on 21st April 2021, so nearly 23 months ago. I've never waited such a long time for anything before. According to the documentation, the car was built on 24th October, and since it waited for semi-conductors. The missing parts added on 14th February (3,5 months later). Here are some fresh photos – taken minutes after the arrival (the mirror shows the smile on my face 😆)

Bit of an update with 2023 costs - cheapest I found was £545 including pump, most quotes were around the £630-660 mark, dealer was £695. I tried to get some sense out of Skoda UK about the 5 years recommendation for replacement as it doesn't mention a 5 year timescale anywhere in maintenance manuals, just after 210,000kms. Their standard cop out response as to why the UK recommendation was different to the rest of the world recommendation in published maintenance literature was, the UK maintenance department decided 5 years due to 'safety reasons'.. they couldnt/wouldnt give any evidence of UK belts breaking prior to 210,000kms. clear.as.mud.

Something like this may help (along with a mirror and torch)

No not plug and play runners need modding slightly at front and new holes drilled in rear, they are physically same width as originals then airbags rewiring and passenger occupancy sensor swapping in passenger seat. I made mine plug and play