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In Android Auto, there's in the bottom right corner (in the UK cars) - it's got time and distance to destination, and an X to cancel the routing. Also, you can add a stop, choose an alternati e route, etc.

Dear Pete , Thank you so much for sorting out my old driver side motor it is back to normal , it is great efforts for saving planet does not make sense to spend fortune to buy new motor for 10+ old car. I really apprecaite your quick response as well, I did not understand how 2nd class Royal Mail works but round trip took 4 days. Once again thank you so much. Kind Regards raky.

Thanks for the feedback guys ... I guess (Hope!) that I will find something between today and December. Cheers

With my Skoda and Android Auto if you connect the phone to the car via a cable the phone will turn the Bluetooth on automatically. Thanks. AG Falco

Hi guys, thinking of buying a new phone. Using Samsung S10 currently and Android Auto works ok. Sometimes the whole infotainment crashes and restarts, but let us ignore that atm. Thinking about buying Samsung S23. Can anyone confirm S23 and AA works in Skoda Octavia? Please also add info about which S23 version (basic, plus, ultra) you are using. Thank you.

Nope it’s not the speed warning feature, never used it since owning, it’s never been set and the menu option has been removed from my scrolling options! the warning noise happens on my wife’s Fabia as well which only has the limiter instead of cruise. If you exceed the set limit while using it (say when going down a hill as it doesn’t brake for you like adaptive cruise does) then it starts binging at you which is very annoying. my car has the adaptive cruise and speed limiter option, adaptive cruise holds the set speed until I manually brake, slows down for traffic and allows me to exceed the limit with no audible warnings whereas when I set it to speed limiter mode via the button underneath the stalk it behaves exactly as the Fabia system - throttle application less than 100% does the set limit, no automatic braking for traffic, does not turn off with braking and audible warning if the limit is exceeded by much more than about 1mph. Full throttle allows the limit to be overridden but is accompanied by the audible chimes until it is disabled or I slow down. the limiter is pretty much pointless really and a frustrating feature on a car that has the radar sensor for emergency braking and hence should be capable of having cruise control.

Well I haven't noticed that on my Scala but it seems to deposit water drips randomly after rain. Looking at your picture my guess would be that water is collected on the grill area that slowly works its way down between the number plate and the body work to emerge later. I wouldn't worry about it, probably the same thing would happen if you used a hose pipe on the car! Yes got the water ingress between the outer door panel and the body work as well but it seems to drain away somehow. Again its a 'feature' and the you have the body corrosion warranty anyhow but I doubt if its worth stressing about. Finally like you I love the car (apart from the non reclining front passenger seat 🤬) Enjoy it!

Traded in my 2016 Octavia Vrs TDI estate today for a 2019 Kodiaq 2.0 Tsi Sportline 4x4. My wife says I have finally bought a grown ups car only taken 60 years😁

Guess we should get this one for free right? The ones who returned the old ones before.. I will try to get it😬

@Tishout You have no need to purchase one if you owned one and VW Group paid a dealership to remove it and bin it, not even have them recycled. They are due you one free gratis fitted back on your car and they are getting them cheaper than that by a long way from whoever manufacture them if it is not a VW company.

Thanks, bud, another thing to add to the list of tasks for the dealer, lol

Not sure if I want to pay €117... 🙄

In google maps over apple car play you just touch the map somewhere on the top and a menu bar dops down. There you have search option on the left and stop navigation on the right (if navigation is active). Could be something similar on android auto.

For all that are interested. I asked skoda-parts.com about their engine cover which they have in offer for the 2.0 TSI engines. Their final reply: "I've dig some more, and the first part was 06Q103925, then 06Q103925K, both are affected and cannot be used. The "L" revision is the one which is current and safe." Part number 06Q 103 925 L https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/06q103925l-top-engine-cover-skoda-45757.html

VC with the layout as on your top picture is only available from the model year 2023 onward.

It was much longer, before they updated the software to 1898, lol... Now it includes: Infotainment reboots randomly and I get park assist error (or something like this, need to take a photo) AC SYNC not kept on after restart ACC occasionally still thinks I'm in Europe, so hits the brakes, when overtaking Some hardware stuff: armrest very hard to be fixed in raised position foggy lights window trim coming off

I think this is only available to the later models - they've got different and more powerful graphical processors, so they've got more options for their dashboard view. I can't get this view on my vRS as well...

yep - S23 Ultra works like a charm!

I appreciate what you're saying. And upping the power wouldn't be a necessity, but tbh I am a bit of a d!@#head, if I had power on tap I'd want to use it. Going back a fair few years ago, a mate of mine had a box with 3 presets for his S6, plug it into the obd port and I assume it overrode the ecu, when you've done just unplug it. I was thinking something similar, for those once in a blue moon times I get now, to jump in the car on my own, and go have a little fun, then stick it back away in the garage 🤷‍♂️

I can see where you're coming from with the Yaris, but sadly I drive B roads more for necessity than fun these days. With 2 young kids, I think the octavia is the perfect size for my needs, not to mention the itch of wanting to own another. I think realistically, I'd never be fully happy if I was to choose a diesel, so it sounds like the petrol and a set of winter wheels might be my best option. Also, on the subject of a remap... not that my licence says I should be ever considering it.... to be Frank, I wouldn't wonna declare a remap to my insurance company, and I know that's a whole other can of worms, but are there any quality plug and play boxes I could use as and when?

Yep, says so in my handbook 🙂. Besides, Skoda wouldn’t be fixing it now if it wasn’t still covered.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/450331-fabia-rear-door-corrosion http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/481574-2011-fabia-boot-rust-is-it-covered-like-vws-are http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/448654-paint-sorrosion http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/461194-fabia-2-tailgate-rust Did they not say there was no record of you having Inspection carried out? That is OK, because the Paint (only 3 years) or Corrosion Warranty does not Say 'Bi-annual or Periodic Inspections are required. (Was 10 years, then 12 years, and now not clear what they say about panels with corrosion from behind and how long for, if 12 years.) The Service Books did have an 'Inspection Report' page after each Minor & Major Service, but Skoda stopped the Service books. So your window rubber corrosion issue is common. But by the terms of your Warranty the panel has no hole from behind. Just how the design /engineering is crap. ? How old is your car? Doubtful you will get anyplace even when the Warranty Claim goes as it does from the Dealership Employee to the actual people that decide and that can have an Inspection done by a qualified person. As per T&C's.

The difference is that they are trims and not the bodywork, "trim" implys a cosmetic function and they can be removed and replaced, quite how far they could take that I dont know as front wings are bolt on, knowing VAG they would try! I expect if you look at the T&C's of the corrosion warranty it will have a definition for bodywork and what is covered.

Welcome to the forum. Real world. Fuel & servicing costs to look at. What has the car had done before you get it and what needs doing. Just some of them. Age might well make a difference but you need to check history of what done, and Full Service History is not enough if not done to Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations or Schedule. Even Skoda Approved used cars might not be serviced fully, and ones that were on a service plan might not have been. TDI's, good economy if you do the right kind of journeys, usual servicing and hopefully no DPF issues. If you have a DSG then servicing every 40,000 miles or some first at 80,000. Cam belt / water pump etc as and when. If Haldex service TSI 2.0. Fuel according to how you drive / use, servicing as expected, as above, as and when. If VAQ Diff that is servicing @3 years / 30,000 miles. TSI 1.5 ACT. Like the others, but Cambelt change in the region of £1,000 it is turning out to be if done at 5 years or later. DQ200 DSG so no servicing of that.

I'd echo Colin's points. Don't bother with a 4x4 if it's a want, rather than a need. Extra drive train weight, servicing costs and needs. Many posts on here of problems with haldex units where they've not been properly maintained. You really need to be doing (IMO) upwards of 20k miles a year to warrant choosing a diesel. My previous 2015 vRS was a mere 220. A stage one remap took it to north of 300bhp and made it a fair bit more sprightly. Gaz

Welcome, I too regret my mk1 Octavia sale, both of them for different reasons. From the sport line plus 272 side, it’s a point and squirt in comfort kind of drive. Yes she’ll hustle down b roads, but it’s big and even on dcc sport, not an Octavia RS experience. I had a remapped Superb diesel, did ok, neutralised the transmission losses, def did begin to cause some pain, but probably not due to the remap. the fun for the diesel drive was in rising the torque wave. If you feel you can adapt and acknowledge that it will never sound great… however if you don’t do a lot of miles, I’d really think twice about diesel. Friend who is a travelling sales, actually went to a 1.5tsi and reckons still saves him over diesel, due to cost difference at the pump and the whole magic Act cylinder stuff. the challenge/245 rs with the electronic diff is a difference fwd experience and apart from the odd wet junction launch a worthy challenger to 4x4 Haldex. hth.

See if the attached helps. The rectangular boxes point you to the 'current path' number where the wire continues. These 'current path' numbers are the ones along the bottom of each page. CFD explanations.pdf

Disabled Drivers or those who are driven & Registered Keepers (or the nominated driver) & with PIP Mobility Component / DLA Higher rate can get Exemption from VED and there is no VED on the cars leased from Motability no matter if ICE and the emissions. That is unlikely to be changing but you never can tell. 50% VED discount for those not on the Higher Rate Benefits. http://www.gov.uk/financial-help-disabled/vehicles-and-transport

From my experience, on the Octavia, only the TDI has the Bonnet cover, not the TSI. I got a 2014 TSI new from the dealer and baught a cover from super Skoda as it didn't have it.

Sorry for being rude would have been a better answer...

You can get a small bump to 0253 via PM

What engine is it? Yes, it's quite noticeable. I'd describe as a rattle rather than knock. It sounds like overhead gear like tappets noise, cam shaft followers perhaps. Maybe also possible timing chain rattle. Its quite obvious and repeatable. Shouldn't be too hard to isolate.

What can I say, the secondhand market for economy cars has gone bananas, the more MPG the better, so whip out your best economy figures and make sure you mention them in the advert...

Yeah. OK. 508.00 got introduced after the WLTP changes maybe when the ppf got introduced. A lot is to do with better economy, hence the thinner formulation.. Before that it was 502.00 fixed interval (often 5w40 but some other sae ratings were offered) or 504.00 variable long life, which were 5w30. So you're on the right page and you are making sense if you know your 2019 mandates vw508.00. The advanced version of the Total quartz ineo xtra 0w20 seems to be 508.00 compliant. Is it possible they used that? If not, I would get the the selling dealer to rectify the oil change with 508.00 compliant oil. If there are any issues with the car during a reasonable period it is the selling dealer who is responsible. And raising the matter with them and getting then to fix it gives you an audit trail of their mistake. As to your concerns over the use of the oil for few hundred miles, its really unlikely it will cause you issues but should be rectified if its not vw508.00. Also it is useful for you to have the correspondence proof of their mistake and rectification. For peace of mind more than reality. As for the residue oil, again unlikely to be a problem. They could do a double change with the correct oil to flush and dilute the other oil buy its very very likely overkill. Edit. Ps try to relax and enjoy the car!

Before I swapped it (the car) my S23 Ultra worked fine with my vRS.

Na, bin the wipers off. The more challenging drive will force you to slow down further saving fuel. Re. the mud flaps, everything adds up. If going to the effort to add extra undertrays then the flaps will be a contributing factor.

That is the trick! I've set it to 6, which is a "Fahrprofil", that I don't have, and no more 'disco mode'. Hence, I have: Eco in green Comfort in light blue Normal in white Sport in Red and Individual in dark blue. If I had the correct software, I would set Normal mode in lastest selected manual mode! Thanks a lot to both of you @langers2k and @igrozan 🙏 !

Further feedback for anyone thinking about this mod. Post mod is exactly how it should come from factory. Suspension is much more controlled with added rebound and compression. No longer blowing through its stroke in normal mode then wallowing in its recovery. Comfort is still cloud like and sport++ is ramped up but not harsh. Totally recommended and thanks to Julian and Blair for the support making it a painless experience. 👌

Hi everyone, Unfortunately I have had to cancel my order (made Sept 2021, SEL estate iV, current 'estimate/lie' delivery date october 2023) as my current car has had to be scrapped after engine failure. So as well as having a year wasted waiting past initial delivery estimate its also costed me a few grand in a car which i could have sold a year ago having to be scrapped. I have had to go back onto my company car scheme and have ordered a model 3 as its got the shortest lead time. Best of luck to the rest of you waiting but all I would say is don't believe a word Skoda say. hopefully my cancellation means someone else will get their car a bit sooner (unlikely though). Safe to say I will never be ordering a skoda or any VAG group car ever again after this mess.

My Octavia journey: 2021. mid December: ordered SEL (style/elegance) 2022. April: when I had asked - no info At this point gave up receiving it in summer, so was not planning to ping dealer too much, and accepted that will have it for the 2023 summer season. 2022. December: when I had asked - dealer informs that dealer requested to prioritize order in november. 2023. mid January: dealer informs that order appears in skodas system to be built around end of february. 2023. beginning of March - when I had asked - not produced. no additional info available. 2023. March 14th - dealer informs that VIN is assigned 2023. March 15th - dealer informs that car has been built. 2023. March 24th - dealer informs that car has arrived. 2023. March 28th - pickup from dealer

Ordered 2021 sep 15 and delivered 2023 mar 22. All time i wasn't get any biuld date hothing just two weks before delivery they informed me it's already bound and coming to lithuania

Varta, Yuasa, Bosch (made by Varta), Duracell, Endoroline. If you are changing the battery type (standard / EFB / AGM) or significant change to Ah you will need to 'code' the battery in, start-stop cars need EFB or AGM batteries. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096/tech/

This is mine last week, frim 150hp to 180hp. It feels like the car is way lighter 😃

Usually part of the oil level/temp combined sensor in sump.

That's interesting and something a lot of us wouldn't consider. I stand by my statement on the engine side. Are there any 190s on the old box or are the older ones the 184 engine? Or maybe they didn't do the 184 in the superb?

A lad called Brian, based in Kilcock, Co.Kildare done the remap for me (I'd have to root out the actual name of the company) Servicing is normally done by a friend of mine (Independant garage) using Skoda genuine parts, where possible.

As above, the new map doesn't just increase the bhp to roughly the same as a 190. The driveability improves to probably better than the 190. The torque increase at all revs makes the car stronger in any gear. The power is also usually smoother across the range and less likely to tail off towards the top.

One option, is 215/60R16 tyres fitted to 7Jx16 ET45 rims from the Yeti. However, if you like 225 tyres, then 225/55R16 would fit those rims. 7Jx16 ET45 rims were also fitted to the Superb MK2, but whereas the Yeti used 215/60R16 tyres on this specification of rim, the Superb MK2 used 205/55R16 tyres which have about a 5% smaller outside diameter than 215/60R16 tyres. The outside diameter of 205/55R16 tyres is far too small for the Karoq because the speedometer would over-read by about 10%, ie. 70mph on the speedo would mean an actual speed of about 63mph, and 50mph on the speedo would mean an actual speed of about 45mph, etc. The difference in ride comfort between 225/55R16 and 225/40R19 is night and day. As you can see from the two links below, 16" tyres including new rims can be cheaper than 19" tyres on their own. Vredestein Quatrac 225/55R16 95V https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s8009p201104/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_-_225_55_R16_95V_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Yeti and Superb MK2) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=182363349315490928&rimCode=ALCAR9257 To get the comfort of a 225/45R18 from a 225/40R19, you would have to underinflate the 225/40R19 by about 3psi. To get the comfort of a 225/50R17 from a 225/40R19, you would have to underinflate the 225/40R19 by about 7psi. To get the comfort of a 225/55R16 from a 225/40R19, you would have to underinflate the 225/40R19 by about 9psi. So, if you want a night and day difference from a 225 tyre on the Karoq, go for the 225/55R16 option (although 225/50R17 isn't far behind). In the above chart, I haven't taken into account rim width, and because the 225/40R19 tyre size is normally fitted to a rather wide 8J rim on the Karoq, the difference is even bigger than shown when changing to a smaller rim diameter. Compared to 225/40R19, 225/45R19 increases the gearing by 3.4% so the engine won't pull the gears so well. If you want more sidewall and more comfort, it's probably best to choose a smaller diameter rim size so that the outside diameter of the tyre is still about the same as standard.

Maybe try going the other way with the outside handle adjustment? Another member recently found that after changing a lock module he had similar strife, eventually blamed on not transferring across or replacing the rubber gasket between lock and aft edge of door. See if loosening the two main lock holding bolts helps? (As an investigation not an ongoing fix).

I have just replaced mine following instructions provided by @jgrindel. It took me 90 min to do. It's not that hard and I'm no mechanic. Part cost £23.48 From Furrows Oswestry. (they wanted £68.40 to fit.) Thank you.