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Hello all, So after ordering my new VRS and waiting 14 months for it. My 4x4 Diesel Octavia VRS has arrived and I absolutely love it. I have spec'd it up and to be fair I'm glad I did. The 1 thing I did forget to spec up which my previous Octavia had was the raised floor and adding the HUD although wasn't fussed about it when I did my test drive, until I realised I didn't order it. The black one is my previous car, Thankfully due to covid I bought the ex demo that couldn't be test driven, which I believe has quite a few options that are extra if you by one new, This one only has a 9170 since I bought it in 2020. I couldn't get over the fact the 2 car's drive so differently even though they're likely to have the same engine. Anyway one happy customer right here. No complaints so far! Just have to work out how I'm going to feed the nextbase rear camera wire through the roof lining. Cheers all.

Stripped away at the vrs subframe, drivers console came out like butter, passengers side though... It did not want to play ball. And in typical fabia fashion, the bolts snapped. Atleast it snapped in a way I could separated it from the subframe. Ill reuse the vrs subframe as it still has the nut for the dogbone welded on, and the drivers console too. I'll use the sdis passengers console and just cut a notch in it for the 6 speed. So may as well use the PSB consoles now for the sake of it. And left some stuff to soak in vinegar for the last day or two. Took the carriers out and got to work on them. Now sitting primed ready for paint. The bolts for the Heatshields on the vrs hubs are very corroded so not sure how I'll get them out. May end up running no heatshields in the end, not ideal. Engine bay and inside is stripped bare so taking on removing the seam sealer from the bulkhead. It's not coming out easy. Will take a long time to chip away at it enough to remove the bulkhead.

Just a quick update, firstly many thanks for the useful information and links, these contributions have helped tremendously. I've been busy with other things, putting this project briefly 'on hold', but didn't want anyone following my original post to be left in-limbo wondering how things have progressed. I stripped the 'remodelled' items off the car, noting part numbers where legible, the damage wasn't as extensive as first thought when the debris was removed! I set everything aside in two groups, 're-usable' and 'for replacement'. UK suppliers were unable (or unwilling) to supply the 'extension' section of body that supports the wing and located the upper 'X' member, it was tricky to remove but carefully drilling-out the spot welds liberated the mangled item, replacement is on its way from Europe and will be plug welded in place. The adjoining section was easily straightened (thanks to some applied hydraulics) Other parts are all ordered and winging their way to Cheshire as I type. As work progresses I'll post again with some supporting photographs.

Apart from the centre bore being too big (66.6mm vs 57.1mm), the Mercedes rims are too wide (perhaps 8.5J) and the offset is too low (perhaps ET34). The Yeti uses M14x1.5 wheel bolts, whereas the Mercedes uses M12x1.5 wheel bolts. Check that the Yeti wheel bolts will fit through the wheel bolt holes in the Mercedes rims. There are lots of nice alloy rims from various VAG cars over the years that will fit the Yeti. However, you would need to learn what a full rim specification looks like or you will keep selecting rims that don't fit properly. The below is an example of a full rim specification. 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 7J is the rim width in inches 16 is the rim diameter in inches ET45 is the offset in millimetres. ET is an abbreviation of the German word EinpressTiefe, which means offset in English. 5 are the number of wheel bolt holes in the rim 112 is the BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) in millimetres 57.1 is the diameter of the centre bore in millimetres

Hi. If you ever needed any help with insurance for a re-map or tuning box then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Just thinking out loud. If you need to switch the gear leaver on an automatic transmission every time you come to a stop, it becomes kinda semi automatic. And it takes away all the pluses which auto transmission actually gives. I also doubt that new gear leaver was designed to be moved all the time because of it's small design (at least in the VAG group). I would put it in N every time when car is stationary for more than few minutes. But not in the traffic. I really can't imagine putting it in N every time I stop in a crawling traffic. or from traffic light to traffic light. Please don't eat me alive. I'm not saying I'm right or wrong. I'm just thinking out loud and how I imagine (or I would like) an automatic transmission should be used. 😇 Now I'm waiting another "drama" themed post from @toot 😅

It has been a while hasn't it...hello again. Where I left off with an o2 sensor fault, I bought a new Bosch sensor and that was sorted. I've done a few bits and pieces over the last few months New rocker cover gasket with cam chain tensioner gasket Bit of a pain to change the tensioner gasket to be honest New knock sensors because I thought the knock I saw from my logs was just bad sensors, it wasn't bad sensors. new uprated fuel pump, didn't really need it but it's done now so... Today I went to badger5 and the got got a stage 1 remap I had been doing some mapping on it myself but other than successfully deleting the sai myself I wasn't happy with the amount of knock and overboost I was getting even on the standard map. I chose badger5 because I'd heard good things and they didn't disappoint, Bill remapped the car and it runs spot on now making a healthy 211bhp and 259ftlb. He advised me to upgrade the intercooler next as it will help with the air intake temps. I'll be looking at intercoolers, suspension and brakes next. I'll also try harder to keep this blog up to date 😂

Here's the promised update guys and gals! My Karoq went into the dealer on Tuesday morning bright and early at 8:15 am. I got a call about 12:30 to say that it was going to take a little longer than expected so could they keep the car until today (Wednesday). I agreed as we have alternative transport. I admit I was a little concerned at this point that they'd hit a problem! However, I received a call this morning at about 9:30am to say the car was now ready and I picked it up at lunchtime. Cost as quoted - £599 which is a lot of money I know but better than a new engine I feel. I hope this info is of use to any reader who is approaching the 5 year point as there have been some very high figures quoted for the job. Perhaps £599 sets the benchmark you should be looking at if you decide to get it done. I did as I have had a cam belt go in the past. Luckily it was a company car but the repair bill was staggering and I was glad I didn't have to pay it.

The wiring looks like this, where the black/violet is the one you've measured 14V on (please confirm?). The brown is an earth. The WW and INT are the wires that select Wash/Wipe or Intermittent wiper operation depending on request from driver via stalk and BCM. I don't know as fact, having never measured, but owing to the fact that on some/many earlier models these two wires are parallel-connected to the washer motor at the screenwash reservoir, I recently guessed at the following command logic: WW=12V, INT=0V gives a wash of rear screen for as long as stalk held, followed by a pre-programmed number of wipes. WW=12V, INT=12V gives intermittent wiper function until stalk control cancelled. If I'm right this suggests that one or more of the WW /INT/Earth connections isn't intact, or the BCM isn't receiving the stalk inputs.

Hi Guys. Sorry for the delayed update. I removed the motor and it turned it was indeed foobarred. Got a new one off Fleabay and it works a treat. It’s nice to have a working rear wiper again. Thanks for all the help. Louise

We can agree to disagree. When we had snow and ice, saw plenty of 4x4 drivers struggle or spin 4 wheels, whereas those of us with 2wd and winter tyres could pull past them.

This is almost reading as you would have a manual transmission and not a DSG. Doing this is taking away almost all advantages of having an automatic transmission.

Had my 2014 TDI VRS for 2 weeks and just starting to get around all the jobs I wanted to. Even though the garage did an oil and filter change, they clearly didn't check the filter. Cracked open the airbox yesterday and the box was full of leaves and grit etc, plus the snow guard and a mucky filter. Despite the full service history, I'll be getting a full service done again to MY standards! Hoovered out, snow guard removed and a fresh filter, feels a lot nicer driving now. As said, might be worth a few little caring touches, fresh filter, check the airbox, whip out the snow guard and some V power If you're local to Staffs, pop and have a look over mine for comparison 😎

Lovely to be out in the sunshine after work this evening.........

Finally got time to install Audi TTRS brake cooling deeflcetors on front LCA. Great fittment, and function I hope. Also replaced old Powerflex steering rack blue bushing for Black series one. Front strut bar is back in place after remowing chrome plating and polishing all the aluminium parts so I can fully tighten the bolts without being afraid chrome plating will break and start to peel of the aluminium as it did before.

First emotions after one weekend and first ~400 kms Have to start by few huge disappointments: 1. Line assist goes from one side of line to other side ping-pong 😞 previous 2016. kept middle of the line +++ 2023.03.01 +++ dealer answered, additionally to Line Assist must be activated also Travel Assist, not tested yet +++ 2023.04.07 +++ ping-pong effect can be little bit improved, but fix requires cam software downgrade -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/?do=findComment&comment=5746167 2. Adaptive Cruise Control missing manual mode 😞 few kms in snowing condition and there is none Cruise Control at all my previous 2016. also had this lack, but i have seen several posts where were reported new [Mode] button on bottom side of Cruise Control stick, when(~2017~) it came and when(202?) it were removed? +++ 2023.03.01 +++ solved by coding -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511031-standard-cruise-control-on-an-acc-equipped-superb/?do=findComment&comment=5737174 3. Engine has lost a cover 😞 as result it's loud as diesel, just without tractor vibration. still waiting for answer from dealer, will it be added later or never +++ 2023.03.01 +++ dealer answered, will arrive, no one knows when. +++ 2023.04.24 +++ retrofitted Engine Cover 06Q-103-925-L for 2.0 TSI 280ps DNFE +++ 2024.01.15 +++ received an invitation from dealer 4. Every ignition On/Off resets Driving mode 5. Mib3 head units don't allow upload logos of Radio Stations +++ 2024.01.18 +++ managed to find how to update built in database -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520105-radio-stations-logos-database-updates/ Minor disappointments: 1. L&K had to get Direct Tire Pressure Monitoring System, but mine came without. not a big deal, as i prefer alternative independent dTPMS sets from Ali, just for what reason i have bought and mounted second OE sensors set into winter wheels? 2. There is no coding to activate Eyelashes with DRL 😞 3. 9l on 100km fuel consumption where previous 2.0 TSI 220ps had 7.5 4. Škoda's Moon White isn't white at all 😞 Huge improvements: 1. 2023. Amundsen Canton soundings much better than 2016. Columbus Canton and i predict, it will even improve after adding sound deadening 2. Finally i have got feeling of new car, 2023. DCC suspension has zero parasitic sounds. Instead 2016. DCC had them from beginning and weren't fixed even after couple of manipulations - warranty change of rear brushes, both front shocks, 3x steering rack, and later replace all of shocks to Bilstein B6 DampTronic, which hugely improved driving performance, but noises were gone just partly yes, new DCC is softer than perfect tandem, Bilstein B6 + Eibach Pro, but acceptable in sport mode, at least for first years 3. Webasto auxiliary heater can be activated from MyŠkoda app 4. Blind-spot indicator on Mirrors body is much better place 5. Boot opening now asks for long press of button, but can't be closed from interior, Mk3 had coding for that, Mk3.FL hasn't 😞 . . . . . .

0480 is latest, and 99.9% of people have no trouble with update.

You have 'Autohold' if left enabled. you come to a stop and push the brake pedal, the actuators have the brakes applied, front and rear and if the cars moves a bit the brakes are applied a bit more. Not like the parking brake just the rear brakes. No foot on brake, you can have stop start off if you want and it sits there until to move off, press the accelerator. '

Thank you @varooom will update you when I get round to it 👍🏼

But you should compare apples to apples. Fitting those same wheels and tyres from the 2WD Kodiaq to the 4x4 version would likely result in even more capability. It is also worth noting that the Haldex system has benefits beyond ice and snow i.e wet and slippery surfaces but also on dry roads, gravel, or mud / wet grass and when towing, or when on the fringes of maintaining control, in an emergency situation for example.

Alright folks, I'm Croxy, looking for my first vRS Octy so will be here long term, coming from a Suzuki Vitara 2018 which is shall we say.....ok. Had a few VAG's over the years and I think it's time to go back.

@MarkyG82 'Fitted to hybrid models, only Electric Vehicle qualified technicians should work on them'.

@toot do you know what the double asterisk is on the dq400? Asking for a friend.

Thanks @Breezy_Pete that is really helpful. I shall have to do some more investigating. Cheers.

That's a bit of an odd one for me. To me, if I get in something mk2 Fabia sort of era, the tech feels out of date, whereas the Mk1 just doesn't really have any to age it.

Dear @Breezy_Pete, My 2nd driver side window motor on its way to you, this was bought new from skoda and worked well for 5-6 years , it had also intermittent issue like old one which is working perfectly fine now after ur magic. I just want to keep this spare until I change car. Request for your help please. Thanks Kind Regards raky

In fact I've just done some more research on the forums. While I'll be doing all the things mentioned above, I'm starting to wonder if it's how the power is delivered in comparison to my old car. I've read a few people complaining uphill feels slow and people stating the torque is delivered differently, more linear, so in fact "feels" a tad slower uphill whereas older engines have delivered the torque in one big lump? Could be that I'm feeling also!

Hardware errors are typical for touch issues in MIB STD2 PQ units. Pls write me PM and I will check in th evening if I have older firmware - just keep in mind it's definitely not recommended to downgrade firmware. Moreover, it can be done via Manual SWDL only which requires developer mode to be activated first.

Hi i have a 67 petrol vrs estate which had Bridgestone potenza on but i changed to Pilot sport 4 and they have been really good 14 months on the front and still very good, down to about 4mm now i would be happy to use them again. Bc

@toot Yes this was an independent VW specialist not a main dealer, I'm not really sure what I want done other than I want a reliable car for the next 3-4 years without spending a fortune!

Central europe... During winters, temperature swings around the freezing point, which are the worst conditions and corrosion already killed most of Favorits and Felicias, Skoda didn't figure anti-corrosion until facelift of MK1 Octavia and Fabia (even those have some problematic spots and MK2 Octavia is worse again)

Great you can do yourself. I'm up for brake discs and basic repair work, but any engine out or heavy stuff like cambelt then it's beyond me. But even then I think the Fabia is worth any garage costs. I'd rather spend even £3000 on a lot of work and know I was getting a 'new car' in those areas than spend £5000 on something unproven. I have never seen a woman driving a Fabia vRS, so your missus hating it is interesting. I can't imagine hating such a great little car but I'm a bloke. Maybe women don't like them for some reason? 🤔

Thanks for such a prompt response. Perhaps it might be easier to take possession of the car first, see what space/depth there is in the well and make a decision then. In the meantime I’ll see what other threads there have been on the subject.

Brutal that , I really should start making a kit for this dq250 conversion it would be so much cheaper than that

If your local "Brake guy" can make you a custom set Braided Brake Hoses (PTFE inner with a stainless steel outerbraid) then in mountain routes you will not have a "sponge feel" after some tough brakings. In Greece we have a wisdom, i can't translate it 100% in proper english but it goes like this: "do not start a work, but if you decide to start it then make it good". If you have the money and original or good quality after market parts then "Go for it". Brakes are life-savers.

Absolutely leave them be. If you are replacing the flexi-hose do make sure the new ones are of good quality if they are rubber. For the same reason replacing rubber O-rings with new poor quality rubber O-rings would be a backwards step. When replacing the brake fluid also flush a good amount of fresh new brake fluid through the whole system until it comes out thoroughly clean at all exit points. Brake fluid is not expensive so buy extra for the flushing. Once the system is empty you might want to clean the inside of the reservoir that way it is easier to see any discolouration at that point. Clean the rear drums and shoes and adjusting the rear brakes as required, if the 14% difference is across the axle just clean, lubricate and adjustment could reduce any difference of one side to the other. Tend to handbrake as required. Distance is not a good gauge of brake wear as it depends so much on the brake use required or given by the driver, 10km of city driving might require a lot more braking than 100km of highway, if you are some where with lots of steep hills with lots of bends and slow traffic plus some driver's use the brakes more and harder than others. Always remember the tyres are a big element of brakes (and steering and suspension).

Thought you were going to say something along those lines. A DPF clogging up relates to how a car is driven, regardless of mileage. The OP says half of his daily commute is on motorways. Are you seriously suggesting he should take in to account the DPF clogging up? Stop scaremongering.

I hardly ever use it. Probably useful if you're transporting a load of eggs and don't want to make an omlette en route.

VC with the layout as on your top picture is only available from the model year 2023 onward.

Hi James. I am also running that software version. I wonder if there is an OTE coming out for a fix? I am more concerned about the whole unit shutting down constantly, and rebooting, seemingly every day after a few minutes. It's embarrassing having passengers. Explaining it to them. Can you keep me informed on any reply you receive. Mike

Wiring loom is fully out of the vrs now Came across another obstacle in that the bulkhead is different, it doesn't have the hole for ac. Seems like it's removable so I'll swap it over at some point. Just more work. Also got a new return line And 312mm carriers So of course I've started stripping down the brakes. Plenty of life left in them clearly.

Sadly, the trend for vehicle manufacturer's / importers / dealers to show such contempt for customers is becoming the new normal. My last car was also from a 'brand' that had developed this skill magnificently. Communication and customer service meant nothing to them, so it isn't just a Skoda or VAG thing. It was always my experience in business that customers are very forgiving of problems or delays so long as you keep them in the loop through frequent and accurate communication. These days good luck finding anyone who actually gives a damn, let alone delivers!

I took another attempt to check the cables, and while driving I noticed the windshield washer appeared to be not working too. First I went out of tune, but then realised it was a perfect clue. The reason couldn't be in the tailgate cables, but rather something with fuses. And taking this clue I came to a fuse I didn't pay attention at all: 42 (rear doors, headlight washers, windshield washers). That was it! Fixing this fuse everything, including the rear wiper and the lock started to work again!

Until it gets repaired you could get some rust inhibitor on, but the body repairer / painter will be taking that back to bare metal anyway.

The DSG software on Octavia MK4 does indeed put the gearbox into "P" when you press the button to stop the engine. It has become a habit for me to no longer press the gearbox-"P" for the park position, because the car does that automatically. BTW - for 2 years I used to drive another dual-clutch transmission (Megane-GT) that was not drive-by-wire and that needed manual input of the gearbox-lever into "P" position. In most of the situations I do not apply the parking brake (that is the other "P" in the car, not the one of the gearbox selector) - NOTE for the initiator of this topic: that's the electronic hand-brake operated by some electric motors on the back wheels, not manually as you used to do using a hand-brake lever. I'm generally not using it simply because I'm parking on horizontal areas most of the time; when the sloped terrain is asking for it, I'm also using the parking-brake. The shifter in the Octavia MK4 doesn't have a dedicated "M" (for manual) position. However, the driver may access the Manual-mode at any time (while the gearbox is in D/S position) by using any of the two shifter-paddles behind the steering wheel. The gearbox indicator on the digital dashboard will change from "D" or "S" to "M" followed by the number of the gear that is engaged. The gearbox will remain in Manual mode until the driver will put it back into Automatic mode, but will still change gears if the driver doesn't: it will downshift to avoid engine-stall, and it will up-shift to avoid over-revs while accelerating. To go back into Automatic mode from Manual-drive, the driver has two options: pull back (short-pull is enough) on the gearbox selector, or pull back the "+" paddle behind the steering wheel for about two seconds. As @toot mentioned, reverse is for going backwards - so that's for you to decide... Neutral - you'll probably never need that position in normal usage conditions; it is mainly needed when you need to push the car for a couple of meters, or for towing the car when there's no other option. D/S is for going forward, only the gearbox behavior (software)) is different. In "D" the gearbox is shifting gears at quite low revs and it will not show the gear-number on the dashboard of the car. In "S" only the gearbox is in Sport-mode (not to be confused with the "Sport-mode" of the Engine&&DSG), so it will change the gears at slightly higher revs, and you'll also see the engaged gear-number on the dash (see second picture - lower-left corner). I always use the "S"-mode of the DSG, because I hate not knowing the engaged gear, and because "D" is keeping the revs too low for my taste.

OK. So it will be a MY2023 Octavia vRS. & you never said what vRS you have, TDI, TSI or Hybrid. Someone will be along with the same as you have. ............................... The basics usually with a DSG. P for Park, start car. R to Reverse. N if you want to be in Neutral & the car can start in N as well as P if left in N. D to go. S to go and the gears change at a higher RPM, or because you want to be in S. Move the shifter to M if you want to shift manually. Or in D or S or M start using the paddles. Holding a paddle in will put it back to Auto, D. Practice.

I've never been a member of IAM and haven't made a particular study of the organisation or the members. I can't say that I have ever seen bad driving by a member of IAM. I do have many years experience (admittedly quite some time ago now) of knocking on doors to tell people that their loved one has passed away in an RTA, getting bodies identified, scraping body parts up off the road and so on and it was all very sad. I spent a lot of time trying to influence driver behaviour towards safer driving both in cars and on motor cycles. I believe that driver training is a serious matter. A very essential part of that is getting a driver to be aware of everything that is going on around them. One of the ways in which an examiner can assess a driver's awareness is the way they interact with other road users. Signalling to an empty road isn't going to hurt anybody and so I say "better safe than sorry". Hopefully the driver who does that isn't one of those who has no awareness and thinks that signalling then entitles a driver to complete the manoeuvre no matter what.

Yes it did and has done on more than one occasion in my case and that is my point, it makes totally incorrect decisions. It is clear that you just want to argue. Just one last try and then I'm done. The lane I mentioned is dead straight for about 1.5 miles. It is a flat moorland area and there are no obstructions to vision. The tarmac surface is wide enough for two cars to pass easily without slowing down. There are absolutely no markings at all, NONE. The edge of the tarmac drops straight onto grass which slopes down into a shallow ditch. The construction of the road ensures firstly, efficient run off of water and secondly, being slightly elevated keeps the road above any standing water. 40 m.p.h. is a perfectly safe speed along this stretch of road especially as on the occasion I talked about there was no other vehicle anywhere in sight. To have the car suddenly decide to pull to the nearside for no reason at all took me completely by surprise. Over and out....