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Broken wire(s) in the driver's door bellows are way more likely.

Skoda should easily be able to have a Hatchback / Saloon / Estate car of Octavia size / height using the latest tech / batteries. There are plenty normal Electric Cars on sale now that are cars, not a SUV, a MPV, a tall expensive not very efficient vehicle. Skoda / VW Group really seem to always be a year or 3 away from where others are now with their tech and vehicles, blade cells, removable batteries, buy or lease etc. So far a discontinued in the UK Citigo and 2 shapes of Enyaq is pretty ridiculous after all the spin over the past years from Skoda / VW heid yins.

I don't think I have the relevant erWin documents for this model. The wonderfully helpful fella that is @varooom may have?

@CrucianThe first Mk2 vRS came into the UK in 2010. Plenty have had the Back Box look like crap for many years and never replaced them because they do not leak for years even when the outer skin is like it should. Loads and loads of threads on here on the various After Market exhausts if you just do even a quick search. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/434438-corroded-rear-silencer http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/425186-exhaust-for-vrs-tsi In the many threads on here and in the project section there are vids of the various examples, and pictures and much more because over the past 12 + years it has been covered so many times.

Not without the invaluable help I get from here. You warned me about lower grade bolts and I found one 8.8 used in one of the caliper pins. I don't know if you can see it from the picture but it's very slightly bent! So it's very important to use proper bolts! I mentioned M10x45 bolts before for the caliper carrier but it's not the right size. Correct size is M10x28 for >93+ models. I read the wrong size from size from catalog. Please be informed. I had to cut the bolts for the carrier but I know the heat generated when cutting the bolts is not good. So I'll buy and replace the bolts with the proper size. It's very easy. For future readers, here are some extra notes about the work: First of all, the brakes are important for your own life and the other people. So if you have any doubt, don't attempt to this work yourself. I used a torque wrench for critical bolts like stub axle, caliper carrier etc. I recommend using a torque wrench. I used thread locker liquid on critical bolts that will endure heat. Like caliper carrier and caliper pins' bolts. Do not, never ever attempt to do this job with an open ended spanner on solid lines' unions. You WILL strip them! 100% guaranteed. This will render the car unable to move. The damage could be repaired only by a brake specialist with brake line building tools so you will be in a sh...ty situation. Buy this spanner. You won't regret it. It is called brake line spanner. The size is 11. On the flex hose side I tried using open ended spanner first but when it felt like it's about to strip, I used a ring spanner. If you can't insert it from one end you can always cut the old hose. You will trash it anyway. Deal with the spilled brake fluid. Brake fluid WILL KILL your paint work! Don't touch the car with brake fluid spillage on your fingers. Even one tiny drop of brake fluid will damage the paint! Removing the brake union spring clips may be hard. They could be rust-seized or they could have small stones stuck beneath them. They could have been painted with anti-corrosion stuff. I used this method to remove them: If you remove the union first, it will be easier. To remove retaining clip, I used WD40 to lubricate the hollow between the clip and the body extension. Then I tried to insert a small screwdriver between the flex hose head and the retaining clip. I used a hammer to gently tap to the screwdriver. If it's not moving, try this: Add more WD40 and gently squeeze and release, squeeze and release. Your Aim here is to help WD40 find its way inside. After that, I tried to tap the screw driver into that location before and it moved the clip outwards. I continued with a larger screw driver that I could turn after tapping it between the clip and the hose's head. After moving it enough with help of the screwdriver you can pull the rest with pliers. I used Bosch Superfit to lubricate the caliper pins, piston/brake pad touch surface, front brake pad side friction points and rear brake pad side friction points. For anyone who needs the correct size for the rear drum gasket this is the size: 40 . 52/58 . 7.5/01

The Ironbridge

I took a quick look at both our Polo and Fabia an hour or two ago, both of which are in spec as far as I know, for their respective rear ends. The toe in is quite visible even at a casual glance, so nearly 2 degrees of toe out on Andy's car's nearside rear must stick out like a sore thumb, I'd think?

Yep toe in positive. The other bits of your earlier post sounded about right thoug No problem - we sometimes forget others aren't quite as up to speed with interpreting techie stuff so I figured a basic explanation might help. In terms of whether it will fix it... It should do provided the replacement is straight and there are no other issues.

Thanks but already resolved I think. 🙂

Most cars should have a sump plug. Depends on the frequency of the change and if a suck and swap interim between full change will suit your needs.

Nah i didnt bothered. It happens every time at the same speed so I just figured it has to be this way.

Yes my brain is frazzled, toe in measurements are indeed positive. I retract what I said about the report although the specified toe angle does seem large. I also got whether toe out would scrub the inside or outside edge backwards in my head. Time for bed, if only it were cool enough yet.

The North American Racing Team Ferrari 250 LM which won the 1965 24 Hours of Le Mans, driven by Jochen Rindt and Masten Gregory. It's in front of a backdrop of umpteen other examples of racing exotica in the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, Hall of Fame, Museum.

Damn that sucks. Anyway thanks for helping

See if this helps. Why do you not believe the rear beam has a problem (e.g. being bent)? Have you inspected thoroughly from underneath yourself? Probably needs to be on an overhead ramp/lift to see clearly.

That would be nice. Thank you! Front I know they are ok. The car drives perfectly.

I did a battery on an SV this morning (pretty much the same architecture) and it also lit up like a Christmas tree and and a road test didn't help, I did a full clear and still had faults so I went through the controllers one by one and cleared all but TPMS and ACC. Then I did a road test and TPMS cleared itself and I cycled the ignition and ACC cleared.

Toe is miles out on left too, looks like something wrong at left end of beam.

This is just what I've been finding out. It looks like the Skoda schedule is 140000 miles or 5 years. Whichever comes first 👍😁👍 Not cheap to have done at dealer. I've seen £850?

Banbury, wow. Population just over 50k people, a hundred mostly high powered DC chargers. The Instavolt site just off the M40, something else. Costa a stone throw away.....

Sorry but TWR is one of those companies I was writing about before, an old brand name no longer manufactured as in the past. Now part of a company called ZF Aftermarket in the UK at least. The quality of TWR brake parts was described as variable in 2017 (and later) at least. As an example Lucas, a very famous UK company of the past, the Lucas brand name is owned by at least two different companies making different parts and the electric and ignition parts at least are not made anywhere near the quality they were decades ago. Despite the jokes about Lucas being "the Prince of Darkness" and bottles of "genuine Lucas smoke" the parts were made well and some are still on cars and working 50, 60, 70+ years later. Some modern made copies and you are lucky to get 70 minutes use out of them, if that long. I have probably mentioned this before, 😄, WD-40 is OK but better as a penetrating and longer lasting lubricant is GT85 with PTFE, if it is sold in your location. If you have reasonably good quality tools then you can get away with using them on the brake unions but getting the correct sized flare nut spanner is a very good idea and takes some of the risk away. I must admit if I was doing a complete brake system refresh I would now be very tempted to use (DOT 5) silicone brake fluid, a mate has had it in one of his - [ETA: "classic"] - cars that he restored and rebuilt himself 25 years ago and it has been fine, and he does not drive slow. Good write up and photos, well done.

Is this happening every time? Surface "rust" on the disks - all you need is a rainy evening and there will be some surface blemishes to knock off the following morning.

I took a gamble via ebay when buying from a dismantler - or from someone that said that they sourced their stuff from dismantlers, and it worked out okay, I think that they even included the source car's reg or VIN, but I didn't need to use that info. All very pain free to upgrade from nonDAB to DAB while keeping it "original" as DAB at the time my car was built, was an option.

When my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS back box outer skin started to "open up", I just bought a pair of SS Jubilee type bands from Halfords, really just to keep the outer skin closed so that it (a) hurt/injure MOT testers and (b) never to be in the position that it started to have bits fall off. That worked and continued working beyond when we traded it at 13 years and 105K miles, and we never ever got any comments/advisories on MOT while these bands were in use/place. I did make sure that I cut the excess banding off and rolled the end back on itself to remove any sharp edges. Milltek is good, I should change all the clamping bands on my own car as at roughly 12 years on from new, the steel bolts are rotting - I respect that Milltek used large sized steel bolts in their exhaust clamps for best strength, it just pays to be aware that they will be the first thing to fail, but maybe most cars that end up with Milltek exhausts don't last beyond 10/12 years after being fitted with them. VW Group exhaust joining sleeves clamps tend to have a typical life of 8/9 years - just something else to look out for, or be aware of, I've got a new ready for use when needed on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI!

Dunno, but tbh I'll take it to a proper place for that myself

These definitely look better. Can you tell me where you got the caps and wheel but covers? I’ve found a lot online, but yours look legitimate and from Skoda?

Probably the DPF was regenerating while the engine was shut off. How long have you owned the car? It's quite normal, but a longer journey should allow the DPF to complete a regeneration.

The air filters condition as you find it will be an indication of recent servicing and if done correctly. Does that Full Service History have it showing the Fuel Filter changed, & most important the DSG Service / oil & filter changes @ 40,000 & 80,000 miles? It is due next @ 120,000 miles if it was done done at 80,000 miles. It is a DQ250.

the inspection fee of $180... ugh. The install history showed no other updates had been done. Oh well it is fixed now it seems. Hope everyone else can solve theirs.

@toot I purchased it 3 weeks ago and I do have warranty but I don't live about an hour and half away from the dealership so if it was a possible little fix I was just going to sort myself, or it could be the way the dsg is? Like because it's primed and ready to go on drive? I don't no because its my first auto, but it's done 101 thousand full Skoda service history from the same Skoda garage all its life had the cam belt and water pump done at 96k it had a service oil and filter couple days before I got it by the garage and they also replaced full disks and pads all round so they don't seem to be a half a job place to me I have used all the fuel that was in it yes and today I thought I would fill it up with the better ultimate diesel from bp as I had seen a thread somewhere on here about putting that in with someone who had same problem 6 years ago lol I haven't checked the air filter as Its just had a service but I will do tomorrow just incase.

3V0853655F9R - Sportline Black Cover 3V0853655ACLL - Standard Chrome Cover

Not wishing to set hares running but does your ACC work OK? I only ask as I sure I've read about relatively minor bumps to that area can lead to the radar needing to be realigned and calibrated and it its had a new grille and there's a mark on the radar cover... Well who knows it's got to be worth checking.

@CurrymunsterIn German / with Mercedes then fine. But there are typed on that service record just wrong. Because you get Fabia MK2 vRS Twinchargers with a Supercharger & a Turbo.

Try this guide on seat positioning.. https://www.physiomed.co.uk/uploads/guide/file/21/Physiomed_Sitting_Guide_-_Driving_Digital.pdf

Hi mate cheers for the kind words , I have not had it on the dyno yet would be good to though! , in honesty I have not turned the boost up as far as you have yet as my engine is still stock internally it is the stronger CTHE though! It would be really good to meet up mate, probably on the agenda next is tighten up the mapping side , the dq250 map is still stock and with it being from a 2008 car the shifting is a lot slower compared to the dq200, I have taken abit of a back seat on the Skoda as in my eyes It’s perfect the way it is now I keep getting a few gremlins like my alternator has given up so might be good to change to a Wosp engineering alternator for the added power, but I have started a new little project if anyone is interested the first video is below

There is zero relationship between an overheated DSG clutch pack and the DMF flywheel, a DMF fails through harmonic resonance and not heat. Or have you missed that the OP has a DSG gearbox like it sounds the specialist has?

Got the new bearing for the compressor and new seals for AC lines

Yes, the hatchback ones are different. The first number you gave is the right one for your Combi if it has central locking.

Lovely to see the Bluebells are emerging........

Thanks😁 I used the Felicia 1.6 with AC radiator, same as the 1.9D if I am correct. (441.0.7601-412.6)

Cheers! It may not be a Skoda but here's the other lady in my life (although she's up for sale ATM)

The old battle bus...

My current “project” car is a cat N Superb because of the damage in the pictures. A full set of secondhand rear lights is £100, rear bumper £100, possibly less if I shop around, to fix the two small dents, paint the boot lid and bumper £300, total £500 to repair. The pre accident value of the car would have been about £2.5k, I paid £800 for the salvage. There are huge savings to be made against computerised bodyshop quoting systems.

Yes it's possible - u just need to get in touch with Julian first to organize it. The requirements for recipients are: 1. a VAS5054A diagnostic dongle 2. Laptop with Windows 7 or 10. Laptop needs approx 100GB storage available. 3. Ability to Jack car up in your garage to have all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time 4. Wifi range to the garage where the car is 5. Ideally (but not essential) a battery charger while the upgrade is in progress due to battery drain while ignition is on. And you need Julian to send you a link to download some software and for him to do the rest.

OK glad that worked out I used the Hella part. Attached are the photos of replacement - the scuttle panel is split in half and lifts up pretty easily without taking the wipers off (on RHD anyway). The electrical connector just needed a bit of a tug and I got there in the end removing the clip. Pics attached.

Component protection is designed to prevent (deter) people from stealing head units. Each unit is coded to a particular vehicle and this message will come up if a head unit has been put in a different vehicle. But sometimes these highly computerised cars just like to do random things at random times for no apparent reason before reverting back to normal 😄

picked up the gearbox today with the LSD fitted and rebuilt , would like to thank LANCS TRANSMISSION for the professional friendly and well priced service , there’s some things that are beyond my capabilities and without all the professional tools it worked out better to get it done by someone I trusted … I would like to add that these guys said they do at least one dq200 rebuild a week and told me there price structure and it is really fairly priced I would recommend them if your even in a pickle