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A few years back I replaced my 12yr old mk2 estate with a 3 year octavia scout. I was never impressed with the old cars ability on anything other than tarmac and as a keen off road runner I'd dread arriving at a race and being directed to a field to park in. So the other day, after a few nights of rain, I arrived at a busy race only to be directed into the overflow car park. At this point I was told there was a few cars stuck , including a LR discovery, but it was the only option for parking. Mode button pressed , off road mode engaged, and I let the haldex and michelin CC2s do their work. Safe to say I drove in past the carnage and parked up ... absolutely no drama. Looking at the disco though, it clearly had road tyres on , which was.probably the issue, but the Citroën doing stationary wheel spins had no chance. Despite my scout now being 6 years old I cant get over it's abilities and feelibg its the best all round performing car I have ever owned. Skoda no longer market the scout in the UK except to emergency services which is such a shame. Ok , its not a tractor or a tank, and its off road abilities will have limits, but I'd buy another one a heartbeat ! Cheers

There she is, for anyone interested

Yes Varooom is a skoda wizard and I give credit. I also used https://mib-helper.com to get more details of current build version once I identified it. There's also an upload of firmware and VAG files here but unless you know what version you need you can brick your unit pretty easily. Depends what problem you are having and which version your system is. Good luck.

I'm very happy with mine, a couple of minor glitches one of which was the infotainment system saying loading settings infinitely, but that corrected itself and the front assist warning saying it's not available when I start the car, but that disappears as soon as I move the car. But generally very happy with it.

A/C successfully installed, I will be posting pictures tomorrow.

Take a look at this, mainly shows you how to read your VCDS DPF health/values. You can then see the interaction between soot and overall lifespan.

Buy the car you really want. Nothing worse than driving along and seeing the car you should of bought....

Hi all, just recently purchased an OBDeleven Pro and made a few tweaks to my Karoq so thought I'd share the working tweaks done via coding (as opposed the the built-in "apps"). There's a lot of information on various forums but it's often not quite right for the Karoq or needs some translation. Disable ‘Ignition On’ Alarm This disables the ignition on alarm which is activated when the drivers door is opened. Control unit 17 (Dashboard) Adaptation Search "Ignition" Select “Ignition Active Message, Actuator” Set to "No Display" Show Refuel Quantity in Dashboard (Volume to be Replenished) Show the number of litres / gallons needed to fill the tank in the MFD / maxidot Control unit 17 (Dashboard) Security access > enter code 25327 Long coding Scroll down to "Volume to be replenished" Set to "Yes" Note: the units are controlled in the car settings (separate from consumption units) Enable Summertime Automatic Option in Time / Date Menu Enables the option to update daylight savings time automatically in the car menu Control unit 5F (Information Control Unit 1) Adaptation Search "Summertime-automatic" Set to "Europe" Disable the ACC Function to Avoid Undertaking Stops ACC slowing the car down if a vehicle in the right hand lane (UK) is moving more slowly. Obviously I'm just testing this one as nobody undertakes! Translated from clubskodakaroq.es and bear in mind the language is written for right-hand drive cars. "The adaptive cruise control (ACC) has a function to prevent overtaking on the right (RUV). If to the left of the vehicle there is another vehicle that runs at a slower speed, it is represented on the multifunction screen. To avoid "overtaking on the right," the system brakes the vehicle itself gently. The RUV function is active from a speed of 80km / h and the driver can interrupt his intervention at any time." Control unit 13 (Adaptive Cruise Control) Security access > enter code 20103 Go to Long coding Search for "Overtaking_right_prevention " By default it is set to enabled . Change to disabled . Restart the infotainment (hold power for 20 sec) - not entirely sure this is necessary More to follow. Working on a guide to enable lane assist and high beam assist for cars with the A5 camera.

Thank you @varooom I gonna test it

It's still work in progress. I have the original fusebox cover but it does not fit because the strut tower is a little bit different, but I will probably modify the existing one or print a new cover 😁

Did you also fit the anti roll bar? It helps quite a lot. You can also fit rear beam from Felicia, they were fitted with reinforcement "anti-roll" bar from factory.

The strut towers and the bulkhead are not likely to be out of place.

Ah, the Mk 1 Focus estate! I had a Y reg 2-litre Ghia, leather interior, cruise control etc, modified it with a remap (that probably only rounded up the horses that had previously escaped over the years), Eibach springs, ST170 wheels and brakes, and a Sony Ipod stereo with upgraded speakers. Absolutely brilliant car that I kept for a lot of years.

Im not sure, ive now changed my order, to a new moon white due to arrive within the next week or 2. I assume its the same spec as nay orders placed now?

Correct Toot. I sometimes keep the engine running if I think the wait is going to be short at lights or junctions, but if I anticipate the wait will be longer at traffic lights or in traffic jams (I'll call this situation 2 - generally I know from experience how long traffic lights will keep me stopped in my locality), I turn on stop/start as I come to a halt - I apply the E-Brake when just stopped in both situations. I generally wriggle the steering wheel in situation 2 when I see the traffic lights beginning to change to green, so as to prestart the engine leading to a smoother take off. Sounds complicated but keeps me a bit more alert on the road & to my mind still much easier & less effort than dealing with a non autohold manual car when stopped and have to start again soon after.

I've recently input & saved approx 2 doz destinations for trips over the next two/three months. They will be deleted after the event but of course won't be that logical to find when needed. If I do the same using Waze on my phone & link to the car with Android Auto there's no problem 'cos Waze stores them in alphabetical order.. Why does Skoda's system appear to be disregarding the first rule of computers sorting data - numerically then alphabetically ?

Do you have any pictures of the "problem"? Which year is your car?

The lead time on new karoqs are 38 weeks, around 8 months, i really wanted a new deal mainly to take advantage of the £500 fuel card offer and my current lease expires in 7 months so whilst my car valued highly just better to make the switch asap haha.

Thank you very much😁 Yes, I have stiffer springs from Felicia (Felicia has 15mm springs and Favorit has 13mm springs). The 1.6 16V is MUCH heavier than original 1.3 135B engine I had in the Favorit.

Sounds like the cables have a problem, or the various parts that connect the cables into the 'box (or even the bits between the shift lever itself and the cables).... I'd be surprised if it was the gearbox, so it should be cheap to fix....

Do you get the amber warning light for the front assist or just the white one? The white symbol is completely normal while it calibrates the sensor during the first few metres of driving.

How could they tell from just an email? I get that they're not interested in fixing your car but why not just say so!

At least 3 in the Octy; the non-turbo and turbos at 150 and 180 bhp depending on trim and market. Then there's the 1.8t 220 in some Audis...

So have we replaced the EGT sensor or "atleast" checked the wiring to it / them ?

Thanks yet again @toot

Thank anyway pal I'm not convinced it's the DPF at this point. I too am going around in circles with this. I just hope this isn't a death sentence for it

When I had a vRS (2015 220 TSI, running c. 310bhp), mine spent it's life on a diet of Tesco Momentum 99. Gaz

Hi Toot, When I got it it had Centurato P7 road tyres all round, so after getting a few years out of them I've swapped to Michelin Cross Climate 2 about 18months ago which are in a different league. The chevron thread pattern seems to make the difference when it's slippy underfoot. Cheers

Hi everyone, just wanted to shout out to members, being new myself. Bought my first Skoda a few weeks back, a 2018 Superb 2.0 tdi auto sportline saloon. Looks nice with the velvet red and black accents, I might post a pic when I can reclean it.

Yes, HW problem - dry joints in powert amplifier ICs, in 95% it's enough to have them both resoldered.

First Zoe owners would dream about 80 kW, 66 kW in the first ZE22, weight still up round 1.5T unladen, wow. Range nearly a hundred miles on a good day. 0 to 30 probably around 4 seconds which is no bad. LEAF was always quicker. I wanted a 64 kWh one but could not get one year and half ago, only 39 kWh available. NIssan probably lose less money on the smaller battery ones.

He's asked in the MkI Fabia section, Ken. Unless it's a Xenon unit, they're all the same AFAIK.

@Aakayamy if there are no other faults logged (apart from dpf flow), then other than the dsg reset / adaptations there's nothing you can really do. A third opinion may put your mind at rest but in the absence of anyone else or anything else surfacing, the best steer you have is clutch pack. There are some readings on clutch and gear operation you can interrogate. But how conclusive and how to interpret them I don't have that experience. If you want to try Google dq200 clutch wear measuring blocks or something similar. Or Google the basic settings reset procedure but I don't guarantee it will fix it, but it is one of the few things you can try.

I know some people on here won't agree with me, but plenty of copper grease (or similar) on reassembly will make future dismantling a lot easier.

Why would you want to make your car a "lab animal"? The Brake Fluid Is Black: What Does It Mean? If you open the car’s brake fluid reservoir and you notice black or brown fluid. So what happened to your car? We’re sorry to say that black brake fluid is a sign that your fluid is highly contaminated. When this happens, the braking system’s ability to pressurize is reduced and brake performance may be affected. Besides, black brake fluid means that the rubber gasket has deteriorated and the liquid in the tank is too old and needs to be replaced. In fact, it turns out that brake fluid contaminants are attacking the rubber seals and washers. The black color in the liquid is the carbon particles from the rubber pads. Why does brake fluid turn black? Many drivers said that black brake fluid is caused by its age. It’s a true opinion. Like other fluids, the brake fluid will degrade after a long period and it needs to be replaced. After a while, your brake fluid will accumulate enough contaminants and cause the color to begin to change. This changeover will change from clear/yellow to a darker yellow, and when brake fluid is brown or black, this can seriously affect the braking system. Inside the brake system is the brake fluid tank. From this reservoir, brake fluid travels its way from the cylinder to the car’s wheels. If you frequently step on the brake, the brake fluid will get contaminated faster. And even if you don’t drive as hard, as its feature, your brake fluid will still build up contaminants over time. The second cause of discoloration in brake fluid is the deterioration of some parts in the brake system such as rubber brake lines, the gasket on the auxiliary cylinder, or the wheel. Because brake fluid is corrosive. Even though brake system components are designed to resist such corrosion. If not serviced or cared for properly, these parts will show signs of wear and tear. At this time, the microscopic pieces and soot of the rubber will follow the path to penetrate into the brake fluid. Discoloration as well as reducing the effectiveness of the fluid. https://carfromjapan.com/article/car-maintenance/brake-fluid-is-black/

If you have CAN protocol then there's stacks of info available online, if you have UDS then you're stuffed.

@Aakayamysorry but i am really confused with you being in the business of taxis / private hire. ? Do you not have a trusted mechanic / garage you use, or anyplace other drivers car recommend. It is not as though there are not many Skoda Taxis in and around Glasgow. If those that drove your cars were technicians did neither of them suggest as well as plugging in and checking the car, they could do a DSG reset?

Agreed, thanks to all who contributed and helped me out! Also, I have to give a mention to Arnold Clark. I know I can't speak for them all, and I did have my reservations. But to be fair to them at A.C in Oldbury, I couldn't fault them. I raised servicing issues I thought the car hadn't received, notably no diff service, brake fluid change and air con service. They did all that, brand new discs and pads all round, 4 new tires and referbed 2 wheels. Gave it a full service and stuck 12 months MOT on it, even tho I think it was within their 6 month policy. One more thing while I'm here... if I do a factory reset on the infotainment system, I'm not likely to lose anything important am I?

I'll leave @Aakayamyto answer this properly, but there are parts of Glasgow that are "Lincolnshire flat" and others that are some of the steepest hills in Scotland.

Ps. Are there any environmental factors that could of affected clutch. Do you live on a steep drive? Is your town quite hilly with lots of stop starts on inclines? Does your car have hill hold, do you use it? They could point towards a possible explanation of the premature failure. Or the clutch was manufactured poorly or transmission with clutch not properly set up at assembly...

If it's a warm day, high rpm for long time, load in car etc so what's the problem for the radiator to work for at least 45 seconds for few times when the temperature is 95 'C ? This shows that the engine is ''pushed'' a bit. The bad thing is when the radiator works for may minutes without stopping.

Hi mate cheers for the kind words , I have not had it on the dyno yet would be good to though! , in honesty I have not turned the boost up as far as you have yet as my engine is still stock internally it is the stronger CTHE though! It would be really good to meet up mate, probably on the agenda next is tighten up the mapping side , the dq250 map is still stock and with it being from a 2008 car the shifting is a lot slower compared to the dq200, I have taken abit of a back seat on the Skoda as in my eyes It’s perfect the way it is now I keep getting a few gremlins like my alternator has given up so might be good to change to a Wosp engineering alternator for the added power, but I have started a new little project if anyone is interested the first video is below

If only the one seal is present and you take your time and wait after the initial unscrewing then the oil should drain back to the oilpan, if it has the second seal stuck there then it probably will be messy but better than a wrecked engine. It sounds like I know what I am talking about but have actually only just learned of the anti drain back seal from the Mann video linked to. I have a question for the forum, now I know of this drainback system is it present on all of the inverted VAG oil filters? I am thinking specifically of my Yeti which has the cartridge filter inside the round plastic screw on housing, should I be pausing during its removal? Oil doesnt gush out or overflow but there is a hell of a lot contained within the filter pleats which usually makes a mess of the floor and my rubbish container, if waiting 5 minutes after the initial unscrewing would minimise that I would definitely do it but dont want to waste time for nothing.

Isn't this the engine type where a carelessly replaced oil filter ends up with an old seal stuck and duplicated when the new filter goes on? Leading to low oil pressure. Not sure why it's not triggering a warning, but maybe not quite low enough? Did the noisiness start shortly after an oil service? When was the last oil service? What exact oil was used? What part number of filter?

Are you sure it's not just a plastic nut cover that's not on properly? I've seen some serious tyre monkey-ry, but getting a wheel bolt that cross threaded would be a huge achievement.

Always replace springs and dampers in pairs. Having a mismatch side to side is potentially dangerous.

I took delivery this week, looks nice in the sun 🌞 Loving the car 👌

Always a new thing to fix! Now I have petrol leaking out of the cap. New filler cap seal on order. Also called into the local Audi dealer to see what they can find me as a replacement as on close inspection it seems to be leaking though the lock! Ahh clean at last.

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2022. It's been a long while but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2022). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams December, 2022.zip *** A brief update*** For all those who have asked - I am still continuing to update these files but since the Covid situation I have found it difficult to get hold of a good FREE reliable updated database. I continually regularly check the forums and when I come across a suitable database I use some software to check the cameras in my area before I decide whether to convert and compile them as it does take a bit of time and effort to accomplish this. For instance, some average speedcams were installed about 3 years ago in my area but no database has yet reflected this change. It's therefore been pointless doing any updates. Thankfully, this new updated database has finally recognised them so perhaps things are starting to get back to normal. Rest assured though these files will be updated as and when I come across any further suitable databases.