Leaderboard

Couple of photos of some Cygnets down at the local park plus some bonus shots of the newest resident of the home 😂

Never ever attempt to use a glass cutter on tempered glass, it will shatter. As for just lifting the glass out, well maybe with a vacuum cleaner if you havn't blinded yourself when the glass shattered. I can tell that you have never cut glass in your life. Safest way is to use a self adhesive film to hold the pieces together when you break it. Yes a flawed theory, they are motorised gear driven deadlocks, when they are locked they are locked, removal of the power changes nothing, they require power to lock and power to unlock.

Spotted at Rufford this evening - never seen so many goslings in one family !! We watched them swim all the way across the lake in a perfect straight line, with one parent at the front and the other at the back. They've done incredibly well to hatch that many!

As a dutchman living in Holland and driving there all day, every day, I can with certainty say that this was a coincidence. At least......my Karoq doesn't do this and many other Karoq's I encounter in traffic also don't.

Is it an AGM or EFB battery, and has the car been coded to tell it a new battery has been fitted? If not it could still be load shedding to protect the old battery!

It can say 'Loss of pressure' meaning the tyre circumference is less from the TPMS being set even when the Circumference is greater because a bearing is going or the brakes sticking and the wheel is heating up and the air in the tyre is hotter. That is indicated by checking the centre of the wheel / hub is not hot. Do not touch, just feel for warmth near. As to the rest of the stuff, then plenty on here can help. Has the Taxi been getting its brakes serviced annually or more often, brake fluid changed anytime?

I mentioned this in an earlier post and the reply from @TheClient was if the locks were deadbolted the central locking button would not work. This was a surprise to me, so I sat in my car, locked it with the remote and sure enough no response from the central locking switch. There is no internal boot release.

Although our Octy Mk4 has been the best car we've driven, because of long delivery times I was hoping to order a new iV estate for delivery before the warranty runs out in May 2023. When I visited the dealer, I was informed that the Octavia and Superb are currently not being made owing to materials shortage. I was offered a look at an Enyaq, but I don't like it: it's too chunky, too expensive and I don't want a car which cannot be refuelled in a few minutes. None of the other conventional cars in the present Skoda range are suitable, nor are the PHEVS offered by Kia, Citroen and Peugeot: all are too chunky and bland. I had a final check with Skoda Customer Services and they confirmed that it's unlikely an Octavia would be available next year. So after twenty years and six Skodas, we have placed an order for a Toyota Corolla Hybrid estate. It was a great test drive with some clever technology because, despite the two litre engine, over a seven mile journey on a mix of 30mph and unrestricted roads, the car averaged 65mpg with 74% of the time using the battery. I hadn't driven a car with CVT since the dreadful DAF55 many years ago, but it was faultless, although the different engine noise under acceleration will take a little time to get used to. The delivery time is about five months, but as second hand car prices are strong at present I don't mind changing early. Because of the software issues with our Octy for the first year, I'd never keep it (or any PHEV for that matter) beyond the three year warranty as a warranty extension is quite expensive and I'm wary of more expensive software or hardware faults developing.. Also, as long as the Toyota is serviced by a Toyota dealer, the warranty extends after three years by a year per service up to ten years and the battery is guaranteed for fifteen years. I am very sorry to move on from Skoda: until now, the cars have been reliable (except the Octy for its first few months) and our dealer for the last 12 years, Derek Slack Motors, have been excellent. Unfortunately, Skoda has lost the plot as far as I'm concerned and is moving too upmarket as regards pricing, whilst dropping its most suitable cars: the wonderful Yeti (we had two) and the Octy (we also had two). I just hope we don't regret the change and that Toyota's reputation for reliability, as vouched for by Which? magazine, proves to be the case for us. So it's good bye Briskoda and thanks for all the interesting posts and helpful advice since I joined.

Is it me or did the latest update (iOS) of the MySkoda app break it? I can see the car and can get the outside temp for example but I no longer see the doors and lights section. Assuming it’s a simple one, is this feature free for ever or something you need to renew? I mean my dads 2021 Kia has this kind of tech as standard with nothing to pay to keep it going. My car is probably 90 days old so I wonder if it simply isn’t free and a trial expired or something? Thanks in advance.

Hi. Car went into a Looker's today under Approved Used warranty to fix an aircon issue. It was there 8 hours and their diagnosis was: they need the car for another day in order to take the dash off and investigate the noise. I didn't ask what took 8 hours of their time today. Anyway, while there I asked how much they charge for a cambelt change. £1250 because this specific engine (1.5TSI) needs a laser-guided machine to calibrate each tooth/spoke/thing on the cambelt. These cost £5000 and there aren't many, so Skoda share them around. By this point, my bull**** klaxon is deafening me and I can tell my face is doing all sorts - this cannot be true! Anyone heard of this, or is it one for the wall of dealer shame? Seems like absolute, gold-plated horse ****. Will

In a word Yes, then when the lights change to green simply accelerate away, the handbrake will release automatically and off you go. When stopped at traffic lights I normally jut let the auto hold do its' thing and don't worry about the handbrake or the brake lights being on. If I am stuck in traffic, for example queue on the motorway, then I will apply the handbrake. I am stopped for a long period of time I move the shifter to "P". If people are getting in/out of the car then I move the shifter to "P" as having the car lurch forwards when getting in/out is a great way for a passenger to get a broken arm/leg/shoulder, which is not great. If you do put the shifter into "N" then the autohold will disengage and the car will start rolling if you have not applied the handbrake, don't worry the car will sound an alarm and flash up a message on the display to apply the footbrake. I don't like putting the shifter into "P" when stopped at the traffic lights as I have been rear ended too many times in the past and know that if the shifter is in "P" and you get shunted then it is probably going to be a new gearbox, which on an older Karoq like mike could mean the car is written off by the insurance company. DSG is a great choice, once you have got used to it, you will wonder how you ever managed to drive a manual 😀 Hope this helps?

Exactly same issue on my mums Honda CR-V

Yes and they will try to recover any costs of sorting this out.

IIRC the Octavia 3 1.5TSI was only ever sold as the ACT version, but as you say toot it's very important to mention it's the ACT version especially when talking to a non-Skoda dealer.

@Krieger "I suppose it is possible that the overheat incident with the old coolant may have destroyed the head gasket. Is there anything I should do or check before I jump into changing the gasket? And, also, please let me know if my hypothesis of faulty head gasket is correct. - Anything else I can do before/after buying a better coolant temp sensor? - Should I clean/check more parts of the fuel system (regarding the dirty fuel filter)?" 1. That's possible yes. Have a compression test done. I think a dry test will be enough if you suspect HGF and not worn or broken piston rings. 2. Do the compression test first, then think about the CTS. 3. Check the fuel filter in a couple of months and if it contains sh!t, change it again.

Thanks for that, I can see them now after enlarging the picture and knowing now where to look. What exactly do they do as they cannot be open to the filtered air, they wont have been put there to look good, before I could see them I thought they might be like the dummy "abdo" like intake tracts moulded into some of the engine covers. These must have a purpose, possibly to reduce reflected resonant type intake noise like you get with Weber DCOE's which can cause fuel stand off. I think Toot may be onto something, perhaps the OP can confirm if he car is equipped with these and whether they are unobstructed i.e. not in contact with other parts?

Yes code cleared fault took out for run 15mls seems fine again thanks for your help.

Check my posts, you will find photos of damaged cables from my coolant sensor, mine has Blue ring. Check your spark plugs. Cleaning the injectors and checking the fuel pressure regulator is a "must" since the car wasn't maintenend. @Thefeliciahacker had a similar problem with you, has a thread for this with videos.

I just get peed off when they are using free or cheap chargers and the driver wants them to 100% before moving their sore ass. But there are many like that with big, medium or small batteries even doing it every time they charge even if they only ever do a few miles a time between charging.

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/mg/352253/new-2023-mg-cyberster-pricing-release-date-and-performance

Get the battery / alternator checked first.

Thanks UndertheRadar..... I'll bear H&R in mind if I do need to get the ARB replaced. The loudest and most annoying creaking I've had has been ball joints. I had one replaced last year and the noise disappeared instantly, but just started to come back so have just had both replaced and at the moment, the loud creaks have gone again. I still have some minor creaks which probably are the ARB but I can cope with those at the current minor noise level. If the loud noise returns next year, maybe I will look for something uprated like you have.

@J.R.But it is a 4 cylinder 1.2 TSI Euro 6 engine.

I don't think anyone is questioning that your gearbox is faulty but in the absence of an extended warranty the repair cost is your responsability. What is the relevance of them servicing the vehicle? FWIW you are being dragged down the usual path by the main dealer network, quote you a stupid price for the repairs and then offer a 50% contribution, you would be much better off taking the car to a transmission specialist. If they have already dismantled the vehicle or are claiming that they have then they have you by the ghoulies and to add insult to injury you will have paid them £250 to do so.

If I don't get an answer from super and can't figure it out when I get round to it I'll probably just glue it, did the same on other cars with no issues.

@automass Quite a high annual mileage, so servicing and maintenance and inspections / checks are rather important. Best have someone cast an eye over the car again. The point about the bearing or caliper and the hub heating the wheel so affecting the tyres pressure / circumference is that it does not matter if you changed the wheels / tyre for one without an issue. That one will also get hot. 'Just pointing out that loss of pressure shown can also be an increase of pressure. When you get a warning you go feel if the wheel is hot, or check the pressure when you get the warning. PS Kwikfit made me laugh. But i am sure they did check the Brake Fluid for H20 content. Not! As to brake service annually, well annual is all many people do get services or inspections, but then they are not running cars as a business with fare paying customers.

Wheel has been swapped with front right as i mentioned my post. So, there shouldn't be any wrong with tyre. it could be something else. last brake fluid was changed couple of years ago (8/3/21) though Kwik Fit said it was not necessary, but i had it changed . so it is not that old and i have brake disk and pad checked up during MOTs and every now and then. I am not aware of brakes service annually. I consider replacing any parts as and when needed to keep the car in optimal condition. Last time i had been to the garage Probably two months ago for replacing Coil springs and front shocks, they said Brake Pads and disks are perfectly fine and they have 50% life left. Rear Brake Pads were changed 9/8/21 and mileage was 51,500 miles and now car mileage is 96,500miles.

I have NEVER seen any frimware updates fo SKODA SOP3 PQ units, @KATV pls share the link for MST2_EU_SK_PQ_P0369T so I can x-check it.

You have a summer there?

I’d only received complaints from UK users. It seems inconceivable to me given the number of users for my custom RNSE firmware, especially in Germany, that TMC has also ceased working in the rest of Europe. INRIX, the alternative UK TMC service provider, are still alive and well and still broadcasting in the UK. It’s just that VAG vehicles aren’t programmed/licensed to receive it. Also TrafficMaster were a UK only company, so there’s no way withdrawal of their service in the UK could result in an impact in the rest of Europe. So a couple of possible explanations here… a) You weren’t receiving a strong enough FM signal to ensure the TMC was being received without error (RDS station names on the other hand are less fussy about errors) b) The navigation unit filters the available TMC services it receives by RDS country code to your current location Edit: c) Or as joek666 points out, perhaps you just weren’t receiving the correct stations

@Breezy_Pete thankyou - CHPA

The interface in my link adds an RCA cable to the blue connector

TPMS analyses the pattern from each WSSS not just the speed, so something on the rear hub is causing an irregularity in the WSS signal - like stickig caliper, failing wheel bearing, etc. You say you swapped the tyre, I'm assuming wheel and tyre not just tyre?

My thoughts... 1: Are you saying the spare key was used to drive the car away or are you saying it's possible the spare key could still be inside the car? 2: If you want in to the car, just to use a glass cutter on the open LH window and the glass will just lift out - bonnet release is on that side anyway. 3: Or as you mention fabrication, rather than break the glass, can't you make up a metal rod type tool with a 'U' on one end, insert thru the window and try to hook the 'U' over the bonnet release and pull ? I actually made up such a tool to secure the dog guard in place - it hooks over the eyelets in the floor. I bet something like that could be used to pull the internal bonnet release without breaking a window. 4: Deadlocks. This is my ( probably flawed ) theory. Those who've mentioned being locked inside their car and unable to open the doors may be overlooking something - their cars have electrical power. If window is open on the OP's car, that should be sufficient to trigger the ultrasonic alarm sensor ( assuming the car has an alarm ). But there's no alarm or indicators flashing which suggests to me the battery is flat. And as deadlocks are powered by the battery... My guess is the doors on the OP's car aren't deadlocked.

I've never removed the condenser, let alone the crash bar. But I have removed the front bumper many times. Basically u need put the front on jack stands, remove both front wheels, remove wheel arch liners, disconnect wiring harness and washer pipe - then slide bumper out. I've attached my how-to guide. Warning - be mindful to NOT hit / disturb / move the ACC radar when removing or putting the bumper back on!! If u do, u'll misalignment the sensor, and u'll need to perform a full ACC recalibration which is expensive and time consuming, requiring specialist equipment. Removing Front Bumper.pdf

Another vote for the box over the pouches. I purchased 3 pouches for my keys when I got the car and for quite a while I carried one with my keys and just moved the key fob from the shielded pouch to unshielded when driving. Soon discovered that even in the shielded position unless I held the pouch shut around the Velcro there’s enough leakage to unlock the car and drive it to work…. got one of the boxes instead and that works properly, no chance of opening or starting it when in the box. also means my key pocket has less clutter in it, downside being if I’m out and about then technically someone could scan from me but it’s a case of how paranoid do I want to be? for my main objective of being protected at home the box is perfect.

Great result, especially given the doom and gloom posts some of us offered you.

If you get an update on that, would you mind sharing it here? Thanks.

I have from factory Bridgestone Turanza T005 fitted to my 2023 Diesel VRS

Its no different to any other car really? bumper off, crash bar off, undo the 2 hardlines, remove condenser from radiator pack. reverse the procedure

I don't understand how the headlight washers r going to complicate it as it is attached to the front bumper. Removing the front bumper brings with it the piping and headlight washers. U will have to remove the crash bar to remove the AC condenser though.

Not as on my wife's 2015 1.2TSI 90 hatch. Engine bay gives lots of different noises at different times but I think that's the computer programs doing their thing (interfering) often. What is the history of the car, how many engine oil & filter changes, spark plugs, engine air filter, and any much more important work on brakes, steering and suspension, all three include tyres. How many miles on the engine? Are you sure it's not wheel bearing or tyre noise? Have you checked the tyres? Is the noise only at the revs the turbo would be active? Are you sure it's not exhaust, has the exhaust or car been chav'd /"improved" at all? Exhaust shield loose? Can you do a video / audio of the noise? That's me out of ideas.

Getting some sun on the Long Mynd

Well they are some interesting theories! 1. Water pump doesn’t need doing as it’s on the opposite side of the engine 2. Spot on 3. Steer well clear - what cowboys recommend not replacing the tensioner! also as it’s a 1.5tsi they need a very specialised bit of kit to do the timing alignment which isn’t too cheap - I would be confirming the garage has access to this kit before they get started you will need to replace the belt; tensioner, idler and associated stretch bolts and the seals on both ends of the camshaft caps.

Has anyone actually looked at wiring diagrams? I believe if you don’t have interior lighting package you have no rear door modules. this means the door locks are controlled by the bcm and simply need to back feed the correct deadlock wire in the door jam. but with that a smashed sump and body damage honestly I’d be walking away…. Chances are that engine was still running after having the sump destroyed and the only way of telling is a full engine strip down.

I am gonna turn off the radio station logos then, as since the last update, mine is doing this whole rediclous sequence every single journey. Really really poor, I work in IT, I have never seen such dire stability in any area of my job, and I've used some pretty flakey systems and hw in my time! Really gets on my nerves to have all the tech and none of the reliability to go with it.

I never rely on Auto lamps. Through the winter months the switch lives in the ON position. In summer it’s ON or OFF. I don’t need any “welcome home” or “welcome departure’ lights. Common sense tells you when lights should be on or off. As it happens I’ll be riding my motor bike through the Netherlands in a few days and I won’t be waiting for the machine to decide when lights should be in or off.

It depends which MY your Superb is, from the facelift model (2019 on) the keys have a movement sensor which stops transmitting any signal when it's not being moved.

I persuaded my dealer to swap out the supplied carpet maps for rubber at no cost on delivery. Worth trying if you are getting a new car. (Did the same on previous new Yeti as I have a muddy job and a 4x4 used occasionally on muddy tracks really needs rubber mats) However salesman was on holiday when I went to collect rubber mats a few days later as not available when I collected car (bought Wed from showroom whilst waiting for service to be done on Yeti- unplanned change as I expected to keep Yeti for years more; collected next day!), so carpet mats not taken back into stock. Hence anyone interested in a set of used for 45 miles oem carpet mats, pm an offer if interested as I will not use them? Near Leeds.