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My trusty VRs took me from home via Gloucestershire to Atia, Hargita, Romania in one go with stops only for tunnel, one border control and fuel. 24 hours' driving between two of us, nearly 1,600 miles plus the same home over three days week later.

I has updates (of sorts...) Car is away being base mapped currently, it's about 80% finished, with another few hours of dyno time needed to finalise this critical task. It's being set up to run at approx 1.5 bar of boost pressure and it's making 230bhp, this is enough to allow the engine to bed in correctly and not be too overstretched from the off. Once the running in is complete and it's had it's 1000 mile service it can go back for a higher boost set up. Still no pics but hey, progress is progress.

New shock absorbers will firm up the ride, they won't make the ride softer. Are you using the correct tyre pressures? Check the inside of the fuel filler flap. There's often two sets of tyre pressures given for each tyre size. One set for a lightly loaded car and one set for a heavily loaded car. What tyre size are you using? 225/40R18 and 225/35R19 will give the hardest ride. 195/65R15 and 205/55R16 will given the softest ride. 225/45R17 is somewhere in the middle. If you haven't owned the car from new, check that someone hasn't fitted sports/lowering springs. These can be a lot harder than standard springs. The easiest way to check, is to look at the unladen ride height of the car. Are the gaps between the top of the tyres and the bottom of the wheelarches similar to similar other cars? If the gaps look noticeably less, that would indicate that someone has fitted lowering springs. Octavia MK3 with standard ride height springs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Octavia#/media/File:2016_Skoda_Octavia_SE_L_TSi_Estate_1.4_Front.jpg Octavia MK3 with sports/lowered ride height springs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Octavia#/media/File:2015_Skoda_Octavia_VRS_TDi_CR_2.0_Rear.jpg

Correct, the original brackets are part of the moulding. However, if they snap then you can chop the broken bracket off and use a repair kit. For the eBay headlight you posted, the screw holds would be on the other side looking at the repair kit:

Thanks to this thread, I got my Huawei Nova 5T to connect via USB. I had developer mode on and I got "USB Error", I turned it off and now it is working for USB and Android Auto. Thanks folks!

@Emma111Welcome. Did you check the tyre pressures as the car was handed over and adjust them? Worth trying to see if changing the pressure up or down to suit the load carried / use makes any difference. Then reset the TPMS.

Mum and Dad have them well organised 👍

The engine manufacturer of the CHYA & B engines, VW, recommend inspecting the cambelt at 240k km (160k mile) intervals, and to replace if necessary. There is no time limit. All covered in the service manual (below). My 2016 cambelt is on 95k miles and running as smooth as silk.

Thank you so much, because of your comment, I've saved myself hundreds of pounds since it wasnt the pump, we replaced the fuse and everything is perfect. You really are a life saver

Again reported "slightly worn and corroded" but not condemned, and passed MoT. Thanks for comments.

I have the same size wheels and tyres on my 1.5tsi ACT dsg, 19 reg. I went for this spec also for comfort with the higher tyre wall running with 205/55 16's. I wouldn't consider my car to have a firm/bumpy ride, as it doesn't have a sports orientated suspension set up. I'd first check your tyre pressures, mine are all set at 32psi (read 35psi), then check all your tyres have the same speed & load ratings, too. As the cheaper type XL rated tyres can give you a firmer ride feel. Then tyre choice/brand would also make a difference with side wall comfort, too.

I've just taken delivery of Fabia Mk4 colour edition. They all come with a silly tyre "repair" kit which is about as much use as a chocolate teapot ! It only works with small to medium punctures and won't work if the puncture is near the edge of the tyre. And to make matters worse, you have to replace the sealant stuff every 3 to 4 years as it deteriorates. That'll cost you £50 plus at least. I purchased a space saver tyre compatible with my 16" wheels from The Wheel Shop. - the wheelshop.co.uk As well as the tyre you get a jack, wheel nut wrench, and toolkit bag. All excellent quality and nearly half the price quoted by my local Skoda dealer.

If you don't have a good tyre pressure gauge with a pressure release valve for easy adjustment of the air pressure, then Halfords do a reasonable looking one. The gauge goes up to 4Bar (60psi). Avoid ones that go higher, such as 100psi because they won't be accurate enough for car tyres and are harder to read. When it comes to ride comfort, it's easy to notice a 3psi difference. So that's the first thing to do as it doesn't cost any money except for the price of a pump and pressure gauge. What are all the tyre pressures at the moment? https://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-accessories/oxford-tyre-gauge-pro-dial-type0-60psi-461054.html

I personally wouldn't want to go lighter on the nose weight. I think a better alternative would be to put some heavier items in the roof box, without exceeding the 75kg roof load. As you can probably tell, I'm obsessed with weights at the moment 😴😴😴

Just another quick one on the car ( 105 bhp 1.6 tdi Fabia ) Used to the idiosyncratic wobble at 40 mph now in 4th gear and just use 5th on the motorway. Was pleased with trip back which was 50 miles B roads and 80 miles Mway we got 64 mpg 👍 In fact Mrs sent me pic today which was all Mway ( 40 miles ) it was 71 mpg . Cheers Donut 🙂👍

Thank you for your various responses explaining how our problem differs; whether or not that is a good thing I shall find out in a fortnight!

Skoda Connect is a different entity from the one we are discussing here. It is the basic RDS-TMC that Trafficmaster used to supply that has been shut down. Yours hopefully may well be just a software issue.

I think you're referring to the cornering light function of the fog lamps. Also, they come on when you select reverse gear. However, they shouldn't come on with main beam.

Yes and Yes Incoming PM...

Yes my rears have feathered only found out when having the fronts replaced recently. I had four new Michelin Cross Climates fitted in 2020, the fronts did 38k miles to around 2.5mm and wore very evenly when I looked on the ramp at tyre centre. Fitter checked rears and you can feel them feathered/ saw toothed about 4-5mm of tread left on them after 38k miles. It's making a bit of a rumble tbh, but I can live with it for now. Won't move them till the fronts as it would not be nice to drive on I expect! No geometry alignment changes can be made as my car has rear beam as not VRS.

Personally, I replaced all four of the OEM Monroe units with bilstein B6 damptronics as IMO the Monroe units offer a horrifically poor ride quality and constantly fail and leak. if you were happy enough with them in the first place, then just pick anything as it couldn’t possibly be any worse. when doing mine, I replaced the top mounts with bilstein mounts and fitted a new OEM bearing, and used the original springs as they were like new. Completely transformed the ride and drive of the car to what it genuinely should have been like from factory.

Just add the word quality to the original statement and I’d say your set. 😂

Repair brackets exist although I'm not sure which you'd need. Just for example, there are various options here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/superb-3/spare-parts/body/front-body/headlight/gas-discharge-headlight-300.html https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/superb-3/spare-parts/body/front-body/headlight/led-headlight-872.html

My mistake🤷🏻‍♂️, thank you very kind

Diagonal so you get the opposite load on the tyre. For example tyres on the left in the UK will see a different usage due to roundabouts and additional debris nearer the side of the road. If directional they can only be swapped front to back on the same side as placing in the other side would require you reverse everywhere to keep the tyres running in their designed direction.

Going for OEM+. I'll let you know how it goes next week.

@Choclab Stated figures count for nothing, but you have the car so you can try real world' just not time accurately. Different settings, then in D or in S or even into Manual 1st and floor it and see if the DSG changes up because you are not shifting. That is the quickest way i did 1/4 mile sprints with a DQ200 DSG. But holding the car on a Hand Brake not the brake pedal. & with hand brake not an e-Brake.

Why diagonally? What if the tyres are directional?

yes you can do it yourself (the update part) but you need odis for configuration. Search for TPI: 2060553.8 on this forum (or online) for detailed instructions but be aware of: - After the sw update you need to activate a new SWAP function. The code is connected to your VIN and placed on a mentioned excel sheet which can’t be found online. You need to fix it via a dealer. If you don’t activate it, you will see the message “loading maps…” all the time. Activation is easy btw and after that, the maps are working immediately. - You need odis for the new configuration for the OCU and the infotainment system. Otherwise connected features won’t work as expected. That’s where my frustrations were. It was working for 90% but wanted the 100% 😉 With the current knowledge, it could be done within an hour (maximum). Indeed my OCU is fried 🙂 hope to get a new one next week (finally).

You have Swing model number 6V0 035 869 H, the only possibility I know for this unit to activate SmartLink is to visit your Skoda dealer 😞

It's dead common. The "best solution" with asymmetric but non-directional tyres is to swap all 4 diagonally (Front left with rear right and front right with rear left). Someone with a Hunter rig may help with any geometry issues but a lot of the problem is wear caused by braking and no acceleration forces on the rear axle. Also, as above the issue also occurs with hatchbacks (and indeed mks 1, 2 and 4 as well as mk3 cars).

Yes, I had the same .Not on this 1 but the 1 before it. Known as sawtoothing . Run your finger over the tyre in 1 direction & it feels fine, do the same in the opposite direction & it feels rough. A visit to a place that does 4 wheel alignment using hunter equipment may well reveal the cause of it. It seems that having the cause of it put right the wear pattern remains until the tyres are replaced . By the way it can happen on all Octavia's not just estates.

tis crap only for new, or recent new owners of OBDEleven. for those who bought it a few years ago, like me, it was lifetime license, and continues to b lifetime

That's so unfair. There's an adage in computing circles - GIGO which stands for Garbage In = Garbage out. Don't rubbish a 3rd party when all they're doing is reading the information supplied to them. Unless the person is illiterate, the likelyhood is it's the information supplier who's at fault. Your right, the info will obviously have originated from Skoda. Even if the call centre was in-house, the person you speak to can hardly pop down to the production line and ask a question. If you speak to a Skoda employee whether that be in a call centre, the dealer principal or the Job experience temp, they too are only as good as the information they've been supplied with. Blame the message not the messenger.

Hello Well after about 1000 km with the Octavia I already have some comments The engine has enough power and consumption as approved by the brand here in Chile, which if I find that it is a little difficult to take off in first gear, I come from a 110 HP fabia mk3 1.0 TSI, and in first gear it was happier . Something that I found exquisite was the good soundproofing of the engine and good thrust from second gear, the isolation of the engine is so well achieved that it is not even noticeable when the start/stop is activated or when you release the clutch. The interior is spacious, a complete family can easily fit without problems, very good space in the rear seat and the trunk is huge 600lt, and with air conditioning outlets in the rear seats. It has very acceptable quality in front of the doors, dashboard, behind and the quality is low as typical VAG, one thing that surprised me is that almost all the compartments in the front up to the bottle holders are lined in a fabric to prevent things from rattling Things that do not enlarge me, the air conditioning all on the screen is somewhat difficult to get used to, yes, but it is not ideal for when you go on the road, Apple CarPlay or Android auto that is not seen in full screen, I feel that I can take better advantage of the screen, and some very minimal crickets inside but it is already something usual in VAG but in this case it is not so much it is "acceptable" Well, the best thing to highlight is definitely the comfort of the car, it is the best it has, the good profile of the "205/55 r17" tires and the suspension do an excellent job eating up the imperfections of the road, on the road it is plumb although something that What caught my attention is that it has a lot of tire noise, what happens through the door, since in the city the car feels quite soundproof. A favorable point that I did not expect is the sound that the car brings sounds quite good, the one that is sold here in Chile is not signed by any brand, My old Fabia had a sound that had to be installed with a third party that sounded quite powerful, and incredibly the octavia sounds much better despite being from the factory, it has good bass and excellent quality, according to the file it has 8 speakers, one of them in the center of the dashboard that makes the sound surround you. The car has much more to tell but as I experience them I will tell. Here is a video of a POV that I did.

I thought, the DSG does not have a direct mechanical link between stick and clutches and it is all actuator controlled, so you should not be able to shift into R for "Rally" when going forward as you would have been able in a manual and grind the cogs. If I go into manual mode on the DSG it will also not allow up or down shifting if I am not in the rev range for the specific gear.

Well done and a big thankyou to BreezyPete, its people like him that make this forum so great!

@PenpusherThe issue is that the range for Adblue stops dropping by the likes of 500 miles a time and when you fill with Adblue the range gets better as the miles go on the car, then eventually Regens get more frequent and Adblue is sipped and the clogged DPF starts showing and takes longer and longer to clear. Well with some, the last of the great defeat device Euro 6 TDI's. After 2015 / 16.

This use of official figures published by manufacturers and in media packs and then journalists just repeat is how things are and then it sticks for years, even when there are typo's or mixing up speeds. Happening lots with EV's and Stellantis do it. Quoted 0-60 mph / seconds and then 0-62 mph and some are just silly differences. Actually some times are quoted that must be in D which is producing less power than is S and more than in Eco. They say you get full power in S (136 ps) D is 110 & eco 80 ps. But really the acceleration times are not the same if you do floor them in the different modes. This is much the same with Mild Hybrids and PHEV's. Too many motoring journalist pick up cars, do not take them to a weigh bridge or put on corner weights or even know what fuel the 'Media team' filled them with. There are cars at launches where journalists get lovely lunches and full bed and board that no way are the cars running standard ENGINE MANAGEMENT. Continental cars might well be filled with 100 ron / 100 + ron from filling stations. (Or the tanker they have not far away.) Not many journalists / vloggers plug into the OBD or the likes. (& the Media Team can be tracking them, and sometimes the OBD is capped.) These were oil burners unless the cars were warmed up before the Guests took them out and booted them. 7 years ago.

Have just tried that 50-70 test in my mapped superb. 4th gear, 3 secs 😱 torque is king. Lol

Cheap DCC shocks in this thread from earlier in the week: Monroe Shocks

I was thinking that but didn’t get a before picture, but do have one from a while ago which you can see is cloudy and now Where my car rarely moves the sun made the black pillars very cloudy and almost matte like, it’s not perfect yet as needs more elbow grease. I only done a small patch on the rails which doesn’t really show on camera and after

There are following options: - Original, which is also Monroe and they are twice cheaper than Original. - Nagengast regenerating of shock absorbers. - Bilstein B4 Damptronic which costs as original or B6 Damptronic which are out of stock. - Borsehung with 5 years guarantee and Maxgear. For those last two I never heard. - There is also some Aerosus, but I read they are some Chinesse stuff. - And KW of course, but those are really expensive. So, plenty of options

I believe the L&K adaptive suspension you’re talking of is just DCC (I might be wrong though) if I’m not there’s aftermarket units available. Theres a thread below where someone is asking about Monroe but I believe Bilstein do one too. If it was my car I’d probably stick to OEM if the suspension parts have lasted a lot of miles, if your 2016 has only done like 50k miles then I wouldn’t go with OEM again. Aftermarket can be cheaper and better but if it’s no better than you might be paying twice and false economy

Glorious at Rufford Park this evening and pleased to see both families are still around (10 & 4 goslings)🙂

Congratulations on your new car. My manual 1.4tsi dates back to 2014 and it is still a delight to drive so I can relate to your favourable early impressions of your new car What brand of tyres are fitted to your car? The mk3 was sensitive to some brands and that trait may have continued. The mk4 has much better aerodynamics than the mk3 so that should contribute to even better consumption on longer high speed journeys. I think you will find the eight speakers are accounted for by a primary speaker and tweeter in each door.

Oh, that must mean VW group locks last indefinitely then...

Yes, I drive cars older than 10.

Anyone with a Rapid, Scala, Octavia or Superb have more chance of people thinking it is a Taxi / Private Hire / UBER car and getting in, especially in town / city centres.