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This week mine received new set of shocks, Eibach pro kit springs, racingline turbo inlet, hose and performance air filter. I can easily say there is no change on comfort at all.

Just waiting on CamBeltGate to get underway where all those VW Group owners who done the right thing and followed manufacturers recommendation paying out hundreds of pounds only to now find out it wasn't necessary.

After a few days of driving the dark grey / blackish BMW and the stour and bird poo & seeing a MINI in the all black i changed my mind and took a white one from stock which i have sat in a few times. That should be ready to collect next week.

A pressure sensor wouldn’t cause the failure of a DPF. A DPF is a ceramic monolith, the only way of failure would be impacted by something such as the tip of a temperature sensor or the impeller from the turbo. or The DPF has got to a temperate probably over 1000c and it has caused the failure through melting. The only way this could of happened would be: Air - possible air leak or over boost Fuel - leaking injector would dump excess fuel into the exhaust and cause the temperature rise Timing - you’d expect a fault code for this but bad timing could cause it. personally I’d be smoking testing the engine, checking the turbo is still in one piece and also checking them injectors. also chances are the dpf pressure sensor is not faulty - it will read high/low circuit faults when it gets to absolute extremes of pressure readings (because that’s how self diagnosis of the modules work) and with a solid dpf it would send the pressure sky high throwing the voltage over 4.5V which triggers a high voltage fault/short circuit fault

well, @@Lee skirted the closest with his comment... i am currently driving .... a 20 plate ****roën C3 Aircross. 6speed manual - just as terrible a gearbox as every other french car/van ive ever driven. and ill be telling them the wheels need balancing when i drop it back, theres a definite steering vibration at motorway speed, not terrible, but present. lane departure beeps near constantly on narrow scottish b roads, so thats getting turned off today, didnt get to look around for the setting last night. overall, i dint like it so far!

The white one do look a bit more special, more like a mini thanks to the contrasts. I personally think you've made the right choice. 👏 Not tempted by the Abarth 500e?

"the right thing" I wouldn't go far that. They fell for a fear based pitch.

Ive finally added the uprated front springs to match my rears and yesterday fitted 17” alloys with slightly taller tyres, going to 225/50/17 (standard is 225/45/17) the result hopefully can be clearly seen in my photo. i paid for the front springs, top mounts and new longer bumpstops to be fitted, as the car was already in for a new turbo. the result of this raised setup is a much more compliant car to drive, potholes are no longer the crashing experience. I reused the existing front struts after the first set were the incorrect size so were sent back. The taller aspect ratio was too help fill out the arches, 55 was a set to far and looked like it would have fowled the front arches. if people are interested i can measure the new arch gaps and ride height as well as list the part’s installed (parts now added, autodoc part numbers, in the 2nd list the shocks absorber was the wrong size and was 50mm not 55mm as needed)

It's not specific to "new" Skoda's, it's been the case for 15 or more years... My old MK2 Octavia would have done exactly the same when unplugging the airbag switch I'm not aware of any other method apart from removing the battery. Given the explosives in the airbag system, you should really be removing the battery and giving the system time to discharge before touching any airbag system related component...

Them faults normally clear within a short distance of driving

Estates now gone to a new home. I've had a 5pot itch for a few years and a mate offered me a straight swap on a mk2 focus st225 Friday so we did the deal yesterday. It's been a pleasure for the last 2 years and I'm hoping the focus will be just as good. Stay safe folks and for now goodbye. I may see you again in the future who knows.

here it is, in all its pale lavender metallic "glory".. ****box. drove it from Dryden to Dunbarton asda, it sounds awful under acceleration, its rolly and floppy in the bends, and brakes are.. not great really. even my FIL said (he came for the spin) he was disappointed with how it felt as a passenger given Citroën always had really good suspension. also the aircon is absolutely abysmal. i did manage to turn off the lane departure though, so that was quieter

Removing the airbag switch with the battery connected will flag a fault. You'll need VCDS or similar diagnostic equipment to clear the fault code and which in turn will turn off the airbag light

Yes it can be done. First you need to lift the surround around the gear knob. Press the emergency release and move the gearbox to N, this will release the parking lock detent in the gearbox. Handbrake needs releasing either via diagnostic use or mechanically by removing the motors and winding the calipers off. This is not for 4wd models. And please don’t take this as gospel without consulting the handbook on exact specs as you may have a max tow speed and max tow distance also. and take note the steering lock on keyless cars won’t be unlocked if no power.

A common failure, when we encounter this (often) we get DPF Clean Team in Hinckley to source us a good and cleaned/tested by them used unit, rather good used than aftermarket.

I watched an impatient driver in front of me do exactly the same thing today trying to overtake 4 cars behind a convoi agricole (combine harvester), it was fairly obvious all of the 4 cars were wanting to do the same thing but hopefully waiting for those in front to overtake first, one moved over oh so slowly to look past, he was sat well back and the overtaker either didn't see him which is scary or decided to go for it, even scarier, he ended up in the ditch because his reaction was so exaggerated he lost control. Every weekend and Mondays for the last 19 years I see at least 3 or 4 cars in ditches or on their roofs in fields, there never seems to be any other vehicle involved or any skid marks, usually on dead straight roads as well. Be careful out there.

Haha no idea. I once had a Citröen Xsara Picasso as a rental. The gearstick was on the dash IIRC. There must have been so many linkages between that and the box and it was like stirring soup in a bucket hoping you didn't drop from 4th to 2nd and ending up face planting the steering wheel 😂 TBH I love the madness of some of Citröen and Renault designs. Even ahead of their time in some cases like with the first mass market people carrier the Renault Espace and Citröen CX. From the 60s the DS is gorgeous and the noughties Avantime was nuts and should have sold more IMO.

I can only post what I have found. MPG calculated on brim full to brim full basis since car was new so I know findings are accurate.

@JLives check your PM

^^ what he said... The white looks much better than the murdered out black.

Impressively this guy managed to hold on all the way home!

Probably because it's a complicated job and caused real problems, instead of fixing imaginary ones as was intended.

was your gearbox like moving a knitting needle in a jar of marbles @@Lee?

Loose all the lettering. It’s sooooo much cleaner imo and trust me years ago, I was Mr Badgeman!

Yes had my 2Ltr TDi 4x4 cambelt done in March at 32,100 miles with water pump and tensioners for £779. Done at recommended 5 year. Now feel I have been had,

This photo might help you a bit

When you turn off the engine, wait 2 minutes, then without turning it on, check there is still plenty of vacuum in reserve to assist for at least 2 applications of the pedal before it goes hard. You should actually still have enough vacuum assistance for hours after the engine is turned off for about 3 full pedal depressions. If it goes hard more or less immediately after you turn off the engine then you have a vacuum leak. Check that pipe as part of your normal service routine for safety's sake.

Oh I was driving a C3 as well then was I? I didn't even bother looking at what model it was after being led to it. I didn't know whether to cry or burst into laughter when I saw the chevrons on the bonnet badge. 'Polo or similar' my arse Mine didn't have roof rails but it had some cushioning on the sides like a Cactus.

Those lights usually go on when batteey power is lost because the steering angle sensor loses its calibration. Start the engine then turn the wheel fully from lock to lock and they should go out.

I messaged Skoda UK on Facebook Messenger and quickly got this reply; "Hi Andrew, thank you for contacting Škoda UK. We can confirm that the years on the cam belt have been removed. However, the retailer network is replacing cam belt base on the mileage for your vehicle. We can contact our Internal Team on Monday and find out what mileage do your vehicle need to be replaced. Can you provide us with your vehicle registration, please?" I'll see what Monday brings

Update. it’s an Elegance, so electric heated seats, winter pack, solar panel sunroof. Have calmed down after my head exploded & the useful info from here that all may not be lost. Have gone through all the fuses again in a more methodical way & in the engine fuse box found F8 15 amp Radio blown. Have replaced & everything has returned including engine start. So F8 must do a bit more than radio. Im now left with some yellow warning lights on the dash 1. power steering / steering lock KESSY system) 2. Traction control system / electronic stability control 3. Tyre pressure ( flashing & will not reset) I tried disconnecting the battery to see if that would reboot something, but to no avail. Would that need resetting with an OBD scanner or will this be a module common to all? Compared to where I was a few hrs ago I’m feeling a lot happier.

Notes that made up in preparation for doing this job, but in my case hopefully before a bolt fails! Just in case you need it. Parts required:- 1) Fuel rail securing bolts 4 – off N 105 464 03 2) Inlet manifold port seals 4 – off 036 129 717E 3) Charge pipe top seal WHT 001 386 (44mm) 4) Charge pipe lower seal WHT 003 247 (65mm) 5) Coolant G12evo HP fuel rail securing bolts torque 8Nm + 90deg in correct order 1 3 4 2 Coolant pipe bolt torque 8Nm Inlet manifold bolts 8Nm start at centre and work outwards in both directions 5 3 1 2 4 Lubricate charge pipe O-ring seals with clean engine oil Note, coolant needs to be removed before starting to remove the inlet manifold. You will have to add in a set of 4 "bits" for injectors, ie seals etc. This seems to be the other parts that you will need, only you will be able to work out which or how many injector "bits" you need, but if it was me, I'd be replacing them on all 4 injectors:- 04E998907A Repair Kit 4-off (one per injector) £46.80 04E133036A Support Element (clip for injector<>rail) 4-off (one per injector) £19.16 These prices are over 12 months old. Maybe after you sort this out, contact DVSA, and Skoda UK.

Start by identifying which systems are working and which are not: go through every electrical feature or function in the car. From there you can start looking at all fuses and relays associated with them. Post the list of what's working and not working here and we can guide you.

I've stuck my nose into this a few times, it's always interesting. I was a bus driver for a while and we used to take our breaks there for the 50/35/27 routes.

I press gently on the accelerator pedal till 2500 rpm and even if i lift it won't change before 2600 ,it is like an ECU issue

Just edited the title to clarify as it’s a fabia specific, well engine specific query.

I've always found angled valves "dig" in to the piston at the leading edge whereas flat valves dissipate the load - er slightly. The Rockers tend to give first - Indeed on some engines the rockers are designed to "give". However don't get me wrong I'm only suggesting checking by removing the head to have a look see as if the pistons are damaged then it's probably easier to fit a replacement engine which might be more than the car is worth. I'm afraid it's the luck of the draw. There are many that suggest cam belts last forever these days - they don't - especially engines with belts in oil (Ford ecoboom, Peugeot 1,2 ). At least it's not the oil pump drive issue! - a common VAG diesel potential issue esp 2.0 pd but I don't think the recent CR diesels are afflicted. In the past the Ford Pinto and Essex V6 suffered a form of this issue - on these engines there was a hex driveshaft between distributor and oil pump. I rebuilt loads - usually "just" a crank regrind & shells. With a modern engine this sort of thing would cause more damage inc taking out the turbo.

Look at this from logical perspective. For the past 3yr, nobody, including yourself, has noticed any issue with the alloy. You then have the car cleaned and the cleaner says the lacquer is coming off. One reasonable possibility is it was the cleaner who damaged your alloy wheel. 6mths after purchase, the onus falls on the customer to prove faulty manufacture so the question you should be asking yourself is how are you going to do that when the evidence suggests otherwise? If you're saying the alloy was faulty at manufacture, then you're going to have to explain why it's taken almost 3yr for the damage to appear. You can trying making a warranty claim but I think you'd be wasting your time. ( I'd be happy for you if I was wrong ). For around £60-£70 you can have that alloy refurbished back to 'as new' condition. That's what I'd do.

It doesn’t really matter to my MPG results what the exact composition of the fuel is. The fact is I get better £ per mile with the “Super E5” petrols than with nominal E10 petrols. Generally I use Sainsburys Super because it is most convenient for me and the premium over the regular E10 is relatively small whereby the increased MPG more than offsets the extra cost of the fuel.

I very much doubt it on both counts. A paint warranty generally only covers problems coming from the inside out, or of course actual problems with the paint, not stone chips or other physical damage. Alloys wheels are vulnerable, if not prone, to chips and other damage from general driving. Getting minor chips, which then let water under the lacquer, causing the lacquer to lift (often referred to as 'white worm') are all too common, so I can't see any clause that would cover such eventualities. If you feel there's an obvious problem with the paint, or quality of the finish, then ask the dealers opinion and advice. Don't be surprised if they politely decline to assist. Have you had the car since new? Is it possibly just a poorly executed light refurb? Gaz

Forgot to mention that I managed the tubs last year

Pretty sure they don't run a clutch. Haven't done so for 10 years maybe more. It's a variable displacement air con pump isn't it?

Usually you don't need battery power to start the car. There is a chip inside the key which communicates via induction with the immobiliser to switch the immobiliser off. My daughter's Fiat Panda has a key with no battery, although it has a traditional blade, and I use that all the time to start it.

Done: Oil and filter change. Brake fluid change. New discs and pads (ate ceramics and ate coated) all round. If anyone is interested in part no, I will dig it out from my autodoc order.

Powder coating requires stripping back to bare alloy.

It's nicer that way. I also removed all of the lettering on the outside.

You're all missing the point. EVs are much better to drive. Fossil cars are so rough and agricultural in comparison. I drove a brand new petrol Skoda recently - it was horribe compared with my Enyaq, felt like I was driving an old tractor. 🤨

No I havent- I assumed the last mot would have picked that up? I'll drop my mechanic a line see if he can do that for me. I didn't realise until I Google searched how rubbish the MK2 lights are sadly!