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"A great mind once said 'I'm not going to modify it'. And for he was right. For he was not going to modify it... someone else was going to do it for him!" Well with the Darkside Octi being stripped for bits because I've moved on (And sort of partly a blessing because ULEZ area and that car wouldn't have been a good mix!) I stepped up a bit and landed a very decent 2017 face lift VRS estate. It's very clean, low miles and it's been looked after really well. I had always been a bit meh about autos, but with such a heavy clutch in the old Octi and the M25 being stop-start all the time during home time from work, I thought I'd have another look at them. Took a bit of adjustment, but I'm quite liking it now. Not really used the paddles or the semi-auto with the stick, just slipped it into D and went on my way. Because it was so clean underneth and hardly any rust at all, I thought this would be the best time to try out this Lanogaurd I see posted everywhere online. So washed the under carrage, dried it out with the blower and set to work with the spray bottle. People didn't lie when they said it smells like wet sheep... Will report back next year and see if there's any change or difference. Other than that, I know I always say I'm not going to modify it to my parents... bbuuutttt... I did say *I* wasn't going to mod it, someone else will 😂

A few random, but recent shots..........

Hello, 1 - It seems that the service interval counter was not reset when the 'full service' was carried out - take it back and ask them to reset it correctly. 2 - That is normal, there is no oil pressure until the engine is running.

Complete joint. Don't think you can get just the bearings/cage.

The 12 year factory warranty is for inside out perforation, not surface rust and if that work was done by a non VAG body shop then they would refuse anyway. The only solution is back to bare metal to expose the original zinc with chemical stripping, then sanding and chemically removing the rust (Bilt Hamber deox gel is excellent) probably three times and then treat the area, (Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80) to prevent rerusting, then a coat of zinc (Bilt Hamber Electrox) extending into the original zinc plating. Then a standard etch primer filler, base coat and clear process. You could do the knocking back and pre primer treatments above yourself and then have the panels professionally painted. The knocking back and treatments will need to extend right back around the inside of the arch (liner out) and behind the bumper by the look of it.

..and not forgetting Mr Janus...Hugh Janus.

I've been on Octopus Agile for about month, on some days when there is excess renewable generation the cost per kWh at some times is even negative (i.e. Octopus pay you for using electricity!).

Ignore it, drive how you drive

Don't forget that many items in a kit from a previous car may well be out of date. One of my jobs as a First Aider in the chemical industry was checking boxes . The vast majority of the components were, luckily, never used, but the company did baulk at the vast quantity of replacements but couldn't really complain.

Sometime today I passed 43210 miles on my car, however when I looked it was too late. I noticed this morning I was on 431,something, but didn't do the maths. I will have to try and catch 54,321 miles in a few years time.

Instead of typing with your finger stick it in the reservoir!!!!!!!!!!!!

You chose too big a hammer!

It is always most efficient to do as little energy conversion as possible. This means zero regen braking and coast as much as possible. I'm just so used to regen braking and half-pressing the pedal. Always drive in B mode in Leaf, MY's stronger regen feels great. Then when I was driving a rental X1 diesel, the auto-box would open the clutch when not on the gas pedal, it felt so wrong to me. Felt like I had no control of car's speed. By the end of the holiday, my right foot, that was constantly shifting between pedals, were very tired. But each to their own.

Yep noticed that too. Car will nag but ignore, open door & lock, & it'll end up automatically in park, & ebrake if required.

Quite possibly, It is the 1.8tsi EA888 gen 2! 🙄 Or they have just found the replacement engine image and used it to ask the question. The upper timing cover is plastic and has a replaceable seal from memory. The lower cover bends on removal and is best replaced with new after removing and requires sealant applied.

Used a Centre punch, drilled it out. Will replace with M4 or M5 bolt. Going to get some of those plastic dome covers.

CAN Gateway -> Installation List -> Click on the missing Gateway -> save coding -> delete fault code = done Now I need to add all the remotes. Here is how to: Or if you rather want to read: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Jetta_(16)_Body_Control_Module

From memory some of the moll batteries were subject to a recall for failing early... Might be worth checking with a dealer if yours is

As per @Warrior193 it is the upper timing chain cover. For the part number and new genuine part price you an use LLLP parts per @Breezy_Pete

I know I was shocked when it arrived, then I checked ad and it was for one. Should get them cheaper next time though if this supplier can help. Good news is the exhaust is back on, went on no problem today after emery cloth the hanger and then fairy liquid on the both them and rubbers. Fresh muscle this morning.

Plenty here in packs of 2, 4 or 6 https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?i=merchant-items&me=A3C0TNVGB0Y0Q2&rh=p_4%3APanasonic&dc&ds=v1%3AVZJ%2Be49R%2BWw3AbHQ1GEwU7sz6GiAc9iKoHVuG8yL4BA&marketplaceID=A1F83G8C2ARO7P&qid=1691834980&ref=sr_nr_p_4_3 I've bought both CR2025 ( in error ) and CR2032 from them. Quick (free) delivery and good use by date

I replaced the original Panasonic CR 2025 with a China made Energiser - no problems.

Oh look, a new topic I can post in now! Bought about three weeks ago to replace the Darkside Octi. Voted for a DSG 6 speed because I couldn't handle that clutch anymore in stop-start traffic for work! So far, I really like it.

May depend on the year. My 2021 car has 2032, but it is possible that they are 2025. The system seems to be sensitive to manufacturer, consensus is that Panasonic are likely to be the best choice, but I found them difficult to obtain.

It will activate the parking brake and P automatically if you leave the shifter alone before turning the ignition off, i.e. coming to a complete stop and turning off ignition without touching anything else.

60 miles of fast driving 60 & 70 mph limits used 50%. Straight on a 50kw charger and in 40 minutes up to 99%. Only showing 98 miles range though. Pouring rain. Lights and AC on and in Sport.

I had the same issues and Octopus acknowledge Intelligent is beta only for Skodas. So I dropped it and went back to the Skoda pulling charge when I see the rates are low on Octopus Agile. For example this afternoon when the sun is forecast to be out and it’s windy I’ll be charging at a couple of pence per kWh! But usually the middle of the night rates in the week are about 13p. Highly recommend Octopus Agile. Saturday 12th rates below, next days rates published about 4pm each day

I used some pengaurd on them before dinner but think they were past that point. I'm going to need to find a way today or my car is off the road lol. I have one side up on a ramp of sorts The link for the springs is in this thread, posted by another user. Cost me approx £45 which is a fraction compared to a new unit or exhaust. For sure it's a job you want to tackle yourself or your local garage. Labour cost would be high or they would just tell you it's damaged and needs a whole new rear silencer. Will hopefully have some other options for the spring which I will post up when I get them.

Yep, that's progress alright. Modern 'advancements' that create more problems than convenience!

European countries had safety requirements long before Brexit was in the English language and we didn't copy them. But what are these EU safety requirments you speak of? There are no mandatory safety kit requirements throughout EU member states. For example Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, Greece etc are just like the UK in that carrying a hi viz jacket is not a legal requirement. Ireland have exactly the same safety requirments as us i.e. FA

I think you're right. My ebrake definitely doesn't activate automatically when shifting to Park, or turning the ignition off, or opening the door on level ground. I only leave the car in Park in the garage without the ebrake on. I have noticed it self-activate on the odd occasion though, which may well have been when parking on slopes, I'll take more notice next time when doing so.

VANOS is not relevant here - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VANOS

Timing chain cover.

OK thanks, have cleaned it up and will monitor. Since I paid off my PCP things are starting to break 😂

As Ford recoil from the world back in to its North America backyard BYD buys Ford massive Brazilian car plant so BYD can make electric cars for Brazil/South America meaning all continents will shortly have EV available to buy at prices similar or below ICE vehicles and their cities can benefit from cleaner air.......

Just letting everyone know - the brake lights once again work 😃 I copied the Long Coding to the used new BCM and everthing was ok - untill I deleted fault codes and did new Auto-Scan. A fault code for incorrect coding in CAN Gateway and no Trailer module registered, allthough the hardware is read out: Friday,11,August,2023,21:24:20:18201 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64 VCDS Version: 23.3.1.0 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4631.4 Data version: 20230421 DS346.2 www.Ross-Tech.com Dealer/Shop Name: Firma Johannes Bruun Workshop Code: 000 02013 000000 VIN: TMBJM65J5D3126520 License Plate: FXN737AFTER Mileage: 163483km-101581mi Repair Order: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: 5J-SK25 (6N0) Scan: 01 03 08 09 10 15 17 19 25 44 56 69 VIN: TMBJM65J5D3126520 Mileage: 163480km-101581miles 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010 25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000 44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000 56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000 69-Trailer -- Status: Not registered 0001 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (J623-CBZA) Labels:. 03F-906-070-CBZ.clb Part No SW: 03F 906 070 HH HW: 03F 907 309 AK Component: SIMOS10.22AH10 4040 Revision: --H10--- Serial number: CVN: 98BA8AEF Coding: 001100D6202400080000 Shop #: WSC 13765 031 00047 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM12TFS02103F906070HH 004006 ROD: EV_ECM12TFS02103F906070FP.rod VCID: 6FBBD1E6F7197DE2E61-803A VINID: 91D49A74615A1540C108614200F8AE3E56 No fault code found. Readiness: 0000 0000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 6R0-907-37x-ESP90.clb Part No SW: 6R0 907 379 AT HW: 6R0 907 379 AS Component: ESP9.0i front H02 0001 Serial number: -------------- Coding: 41DC287D212500C68219146B845100400804 Shop #: WSC 13765 031 00047 ASAM Dataset: EV_Brake1ESP90iBOSCH 003020 ROD: EV_Brake1ESP90iBOSCH_003_VW21.rod VCID: 1079B21A8AE7021A9FB-8044 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) Labels: 6Q0-907-044.lbl Part No SW: 5J0 907 044 C HW: 5J0 907 044 C Component: Climatronic H09 0103 Revision: K0000000 VCID: 2A0D00F20CFB58CA71F-807E No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 6R0-937-08x-09.clb Part No SW: 6R7 937 087 M HW: 6R7 937 087 M Component: PQ25 BCM H28 0555 Revision: -1------ Serial number: -------------- Coding: 64980B3808010000003008006C2B09C000C0400F608C0000020010000000 Shop #: WSC 02013 000 00000 VCID: 4EC56C6250D354EACD7-801A Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 6R0 959 801 AJ HW: 6R0 959 801 AJ Labels: 6R0-959-801.CLB Component: J386__TSG_FT 006 5210 Serial number: -------------------- Coding: 020000 Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 6R0 959 802 AQ HW: 6R0 959 802 AQ Labels: 6R0-959-802.CLB Component: J387__TSG_BT 006 5210 Serial number: -------------------- Coding: 020000 Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 6R0 959 811 K HW: 6R0 959 811 K Component: J388__TSG_HL 006 5210 Serial number: -------------------- Coding: 020000 Subsystem 4 - Part No SW: 6R0 959 812 K HW: 6R0 959 812 K Component: J389__TSG_HR 006 5210 Serial number: -------------------- Coding: 020000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J446) Labels:| 5J0-919-475.clb Part No SW: 5J0 919 475 HW: 5J0 919 475 A Component: PARKHILFE 4K H11 0003 Revision: --H10--- Serial number: 32931306303015 Coding: 110002 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00047 ASAM Dataset: EV_SK25XParkiAssis2 S01002 ROD: EV_SK25XParkiAssis2.rod VCID: 72BDD892E42B500A09F-8026 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels:| 5K0-959-655.clb Part No SW: 6R0 959 655 L HW: 6R0 959 655 L Component: VW10AirbagT23 H10 0020 Revision: -------- Serial number: 003GY008M8DI Dataset Number: t00301615J0 0001 Coding: 003233 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00047 ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10BPAVW250 A01001 ROD: EV_AirbaVW10BPAVW250_VW25.rod VCID: 4BC36576A34161C2AA9-801E Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side: Serial number: 3495RRB401A50EA0N1M4 Front Passenger's Side Airbag Crash Sensor: Serial number: 3505RRB400G50ENA9984 Rear Side Airbag Crash Sensor (on driver's side): Serial number: 3515RRB401I50ENAG2AA Passenger side rear thorax airbag crash sensor: Serial number: 3525RRB401I50ENAGAAJ No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1 Part No SW: 5J0 920 841 E HW: 5J0 920 841 E Component: KOMBI H05 0306 Serial number: 00000000000000 Coding: 110E00 Shop #: WSC 13765 031 00047 ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04113 ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_SK25.rod VCID: 2C0106EA068F46FA833-8078 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:. 6N0-909-901-6R.clb Part No SW: 6N0 909 901 HW: 6R7 937 087 M Component: GW-K-CAN TP20 H28 0555 Revision: -1------ Coding: 232200 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00053 VCID: 70B9D29AEAA7621AFFB-8024 1 Fault Found: 01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 000 - - Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 161 Mileage: 163483 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2018.01.01 Time: 21:22:31 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 25: Immobilizer (J334) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb Part No SW: 5K0 953 234 HW: 5K0 953 234 Component: IMMO H05 0306 Serial number: 00000000000000 Coding: 000000 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 A03009 ROD: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09_VW21.rod VCID: 6A8DC0F2CCFB98CAB1F-803E No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 6Q0-423-156.clb Part No: 6R0 423 156 C Component: LenkhilfeTRW V278 Coding: 11240 Shop #: WSC 13765 VCID: 3039129A2367221ABFB-8064 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 56: Radio (J503) Labels:. 5M0-035-1xx-56.clb Part No SW: 5J0 035 161 D HW: 5J0 035 161 D Component: Radio-SWING 004 0003 Revision: -----07S Serial number: SKZ4Z2N1162640 Coding: 0D0004000006 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00047 VCID: 2313EDD66BD18982329-8076 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 69: Trailer (J345) Labels:. 1K0-907-383-V2.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 383 F HW: 1K0 907 383 F Component: Anhaenger H09 0100 Revision: 3A001001 Serial number: 00008030375348 Coding: 410D000100000000 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00047 VCID: 3039129A2A27221ABFB-8064 No fault code found. End----------(Elapsed Time: 00:51, VBatt start/end: 12.6V/12.5V)-----------

Thanks for you help everyone. This saga appears to be closed. Got a new part from autodoc - Valeo brand - the same that came off - hopefully it wont fail in 60k miles again... Local garage that I'm hoping to make my go-to place charged £200 to fit. Few bubbles into the expansion tank upon opening it after the first drive. Behaved since. Things I'll note here for the benefit of folks trying to diagnose in the future. I got a weak-positive sniff test - This was a red herring and was likely recirculated exhaust gas into the pressurised manifold then the coolant - it didn't mean a cracked block or post-engine leak for me. Borescope into the temp sensor on the manifold when the coolant was hot and pressurised showed coolant leaking into it.

100% the transport blocks have not been removed. This is criminal negligence, the dealers who not only neglect to remove the blocks but then do the "nothing wrong with the vehicle" BS this should serve a prison sentence.

Hia... After some experimentation I found my problem. It was my iCar Pro plugged into the obd2 port. It turns itself of after about 30 seconds of car being turned off. It seems this is enough to trigger the alarm! After unplugging it, no more alarm going off. Tested it for about a week... Cheers Nigel

You have included the word 'diff' in the thread title, probably by accident but please do not confuse the diff with the Haldex. Bad things will happen.

Not an issue pal

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/generation-5-haldex-fault-finding-repair-guide/

I know full well the differences in brake sizes between the various models, I converted my 140 to the larger 170 discs. About 5 years ago. You are the only one saying that the calipers are the same everyone else says not. I await your evidence that it can be done preferably with documented pictures because without that I will stick with the majority.

The recall is for a safety problem when the cover is fitted, since your car was built without the cover the recall doesn't apply and hence is not shown against your car.

im currently working my way thought the Ebay sellers and whilst all of them claim to be can bus I haven't come across any that are suitable for the Superb yet!!

I have to admit that when i bought my 272 Superb I didn't have full knowledge of this 2.0 tsi engine. I had two other options: a new Audi A4 (2.0 TSI 185kw 4x4) or a 540i with 6.000 km on the clock. Superb was the cheaper one. And it was my wife’s option n.1 (after this i’m sure you’ll understand i only had the illusion of choice, but I like to think that the choice was mine anyway). I did not have much expectations from this engine, only because i didn’t know it’s potential. After first 1.500 km driven as slow as imposed by the manual, i got 18.4 sec on 100-200, not to bad related to my expectations, but not exactly exciting. So i went to my tuner, (he had already remapped my Octavia II 2.0 tdi 140), asked for a stage1 remap. Another 1.000 km driven and the 100-200 time was 12.5 sec, with an incredible 0-100 in 4,3 sec. Quarter mile in 12,52. So I started looking for information about my DNUA engine, and little by little I understood what I had really bought. I thought I should enjoy the full potential of the engine, and this idea crept into me. I wanted it to look as original as possible, especially in terms of noise, so I had first to find a catted downpipe, and for DNU engine i had to wait till october 2019 when Milltek made a downpipe for the new Audi S3 OPF with hjs 200cell cat. Then i searched for big turbo, i didn’t want to compromise so I chose the TTE535. It took quite a long time to find the right to me big brake kit, in the end the choice fell back on vagbremtechnic kit that includes 6 pistons AP calipers, floating 390mm AP rotors and DS2500 brake pads. For sure oversized for street use, but safety first. Note that this kit fitted perfect with Racingline R360 wheels without spacers. Due to covid-19 lockdown i had to wait till may, and then we started with: Millteck downpipe with HJS 200 cell cat TTE535 turbo Racingline R600, silicone inlet hose and inlet pipe Forge intercooler and silicone hose kit Autotech HPFP upgrade Racingline oil management system Dsg has been remapped but ecu map has to be completed, it’s taking more time than expected. Aside from the performance, for now the only thing i can say is about the noise: exactly what i wanted. Driving in D feels completely stock, so no unwanted attention while driving quietly in the city. But over 3.500 rpm it becomes music. Really, i didn’t know that this 4 cyl engine could sound pretty good. No pops and bangs, no dsg farts, just only the engine with a TTE535 whistle… almost intrusive, but lovely.

Have you thought about getting a supply and fit quote from PF Jones. It may not be as much as you think? Colin

Not owned many diesels so can't be overly helpful , but first thought is have you checked the fuel filter? Other possibility I can think of is an injector stuck open, have you smelt the dispstick? Does it smell of diesel?

I stupidly purchased non-void engine and transmission mount and the vibration was horrendous under 2k rpm. So reverted back to the standards one and I bought this arm for a fraction of the branded ones and added in a powerflex dogbone insert which does increase NVM slightly. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000128124456.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7b084fb8eqsrfR&algo_pvid=355a47e7-6049-445d-83dc-f9e94adc5596&algo_exp_id=355a47e7-6049-445d-83dc-f9e94adc5596-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"20000000124731992"} I even increase the idling rpm that made a slight difference. If you have ODB11 then its very simple to do. I think the Revo engine and transmission mount are meant to be slightly harder the stock with a slight increase NVM however based on feedback the best ones are Superpro or BFI but they are stupidly expensive! I may try the 034 Motorsport ones from Awesome for c £300.

It's a bloody disgrace that anyone should have to be inconvenienced or fork out a penny of their own cash to sort out this dangerous fault. Car manufacturers being what they are though, we probably have to wait for someone to die in a fireball in one of these cars before a recall occurs. Disgusts me.