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Latest project completed on Gandalf - added ambient lighting to the inside of the door pockets, so I can actually see wat stuff is in there. Wiring is piggy backed off the door warning light, so it turns on and off with the door open/close. All 4 door pockets now have ambient lighting 😁

We just changed 2015 version of the same Tiguan (although ours was DSG and I'm bemused by yours being non-DSG, I thought, at least in Europe, they were always DSG?) - anyway, I agree with not entertaining a diesel, hence we got the 1,5TSi Karoq. OK, ours was the 150PS engined Tiguan with 4Motion, but even on long steady runs down to our head office I couldn't quite get 50MPG on the display. Did the same run last week in Karoq and it showed 52MPG which I'm very happy with.

The Karoq 2.0tdi 115 has been discontinued recently, it appears in current brochure as from stock only https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6 So in blunt terms, is obsolete, had a list price of £2500+ over the petrol version. So even if you save £30 in fuel every 1000 miles, going to be years to recover extra cost. Haven't done comparison recently but when diesel was about 10p litre more, were looking at over 100,000 miles to get back extra £2500 The simple reason is not the basic engine itself being bad, but all the emissions equipment that needs to be added these days makes it a maintenance liability. But of course a dealer stuck with one on his forecourt is bound to do sales patter of its lovely, however usual buyer beware applies, because if they were selling crock of junk they wouldn't say so. Would I buy one, simple answer is no, and fact it it discontinued by VW ought to be big clue even they don't rate it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQxfUd8_WLo

I sourced mine (VRS fabia) from Skodaparts.com 5E0 713 146 E The gaiter is available from your local vag dealer not a bad price, 5J2 713 123 N DYT It took me about 30 minutes in total to replace

No more 'low beam light bulbs' fault code for ages. so i think it fixes itself. Battery is performing super good. let's see how long it takes to give me problem. last one lasted 1year 4 months. So this thread can be marked as solved. thanks to everyone.

These r not standard or upgrade for Superb, let alone any other Skoda models, hence it's not right to put the details on that post. It's something that I made up myself. I bought slim 2.7mm LED strips from AliExpress, cut them into 12mm length, soldered the wiring & plugs, then stuck them to a grove inside the door pocket, along the top edge. I spliced into the door warning lights for power. It involves removing the door cards, so u can drill a tiny 3mm hole in the corner of the door pocket.

My car has just been for its first MOT. Prior to that, I took it in for my trusted independent garage and tester to look at the discs as I was very unhappy with their condition - they appear to be badly corroded and look like ****e. (As previously mentioned on here, I intended that he should replace them with non-OEM items). I was surprised when he told me that he was certain that the rear brakes would be up to scratch and that he could not see any point in replacing them. In the event, when I went for the scheduled test, the brake readings on the test equipment were perfect! He confirms that rear brakes in general only provide 25% of the braking, and on a lightweight car like a Kamiq - especially an automatic - they do sod all. He advised that I should continue to apply the hand-brake from time to time to clean up the surface of the discs to address the cosmetic aspect, otherwise I should ignore what really was not an issue!

Hopefully I can get to keep the Volvo until the end of its lease and the Octavia will be passed onto another colleague. The gearbox can be a bit slow to respond at times, especially when you are in hybrid mode. With a bit of forward planning by switching to performance mode it's not an issue.

@lol-lolthat is ICE CARS he is talking about not 'Mass ICE vehicles.'

Nothing to worry about, the fan will not come on with the car switched off but it may continue to run until the radiator cools down enough for the thermoswitch to cut it. SNAP!

It does sound the same as this forum member experienced, their fix is in the last post

I have to say that unless the car has been struck by lightning the chances of an ECU or fuel system failure are vanishingly small. Which is why I flagged up the FAR more common RFID antenna fault.

The aux socket is exactly what it says on the tin... A simple dumb line in left / right / ground in like a microphone input or the opposite of a headphone socket. It's never going to 'run' a player of any sort.

Mine had a well and truly deserved Haldex service. I've been putting it off for a year as I could not think how to, safely, get the car level and off the floor enough to get under it. In the end I had a friend who works in a garage stick it on the lift... and thank god I did because I'm not sure I'd have managed that on my back. My findings: 1. Doesn't that oil stink 2. The screen was as blocked up as you can expect it would be 30k miles after the last "Skoda" service (i.e. drain and re-fill). Pulled another two fingers worth of crap out of the unit where the pump sits too. 3. The metal screen/shield over the pump wiring was greener than my bogies. The wiring seems intact though. 4. My Haldex makes funny noises when you do the pump re-learn. I've never heard it "screech" like it does during the re-learn, when driving, and as far as I can tell the 4WD is actually working, I have found every slippery surface in a 20 mile radius and cannot get it to wheelspin the front, only had a couple of chirps. I've asked a company that specialises in Haldex stuff if they've ever heard the screeching before, I don't think its the pump as you can hear the pump spin up fine, I do wonder if the pressure relief valve is a bit gummed up and maybe stuck slightly open... luckily it seems that you may be able to remove that without dropping the liquid gold out of the unit again... and if so, I might take it out and see if I can see whats up (or order another, maybe, at £69 each).

Sorry only just seem the earlier posts no worries we don't reply on the sat nav for all these limits just some times signs have been removed and not replaced even before the Dickford diaster date 17th sometimes it's used as a backup to check

This is a good point that I completely overlooked. The 2.0TSI DSG cars will happily change up at quite low revs, which might not be ideal during running-in. I have no experience of the 220 engine, but the 190 engine is happy to try and pretend it's a diesel when it comes to low down grunt. 😊

Moderate your driving in line with the oil temp, if you can. Oil temp is not shown until the temperature hits 50C, and decent operating temperature is nearer 80C. Don't let the water temp fool you into thinking your engine is up to temperature. 👍

For the sake of variety, alternatives exist in Scorpion UK's offering(s) - like Milltek, they're also brilliant quality and their pre-/aftercare support is next-level 👍

?? I don't understand - or am I missing something? 6.38 doesn't fall between 6.44 and 7.44

As I’ve been posting here I’ve taken a back seat on the thread, but with a mod hat on… please be civil to each other.

Moved it to the classic skoda area though 👍

7 speed wet clutch DSG, put it in D and drive. Like every rep / Sales person in a Demonstrator does. The only difference is they are in a unloaded car. The p1ss in owners manuals has been the same for decades. @NX01If you are buying oil for top up,s or asking the Sales Person for a litre free, it is to the spec VW 508 00 / 509 00. 0w 20 FS IV. So not the 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III if that is what have have available. that is VW 504 00 / 507 00

^^^ Plus avoid using full throttle, vary speed often rather than keeping to steady speed, don't allow DSG to shift up to top gear too early (perhaps switch to S).

It makes no difference what system OP has - the changed speed limits will be invisible to all nav systems until (or if) the navigational data is updated.

The RFID chip in the key is read by the instrument cluster using an inductive loop antenna around the ignition lock, these can give trouble due to dry joints in the instrument cluster where it plugs in.

Do not DIY, unless you know about DQ200,s as these are different from a DQ250 which is the one oil in the Box & MCU. The DQ200 has 2 oils. There is a DIY thread, and i could link 2 of them but i will not. Leave the DQ200 well alone unless a high mileage done and maybe even then. There was the World Wide recall 2012 which excluded Europe and that was in DQ200,s 2009-2012. '34F7' changine the oi from Synthetic to mineral and a software update. In Europe a Service campaign started in 2014 to do these. Then in 2017 Service Campaign '34H5' was started on some from 2013-2015. a Software update. This has been restarted 2 times since in Australia because there were missed cars. This was about Heat /Pressure and failures, cracks, leaks & the accumulator. There are TPI,s covering DQ200,s from 2015 on, Clutch Slip & there were Clutch Pack Upgrades and Software updates, There are threads on here on that. With a 2017 on DQ200 DSG working fine, leave well alone IMO.

I mean that non of these cheap 4k dashcams is real 4k, they are uprated to 4k. Secondly, resolution is not everything (but deffo helps). I would recommend to watch just thease youtube videos to explain things in more detail and show the difference 1) this will give you some more understanding of the "technology" and why it makes no sense to overpay: 2) but this one will give you in depth review of Starvis2 dashcam and explain in details why it is so good and why it is worth the money. Again, do not take my or other users word for it - just watch some dashcam channels, and pause some videos to read number plate, signs on the side of the road, etc. Oh, and check how many number plates you can read at night. If money is tight, get whatever you want (as per video (1)). But if you can spend a bit more look for a dashcam with Starvis2 - front and rear. Do not waste money for inside cameras IMHO.

I very much doubt VAG would open source the headunit software... I'd suggest spending some time converting your collection to mp3 or equivalent and putting them on an SD card 👍

2.0 TDI though and the 115ps and a DQ200 DSG. Mapped / Engine Management all about the WLTP / RDE2. So they need driven to see if they suit. (The Golf issue was the no physical buttons and the stuff you needed to use at night was no back lit. The ACC was amazing though and the GPS & backing off and power cut / coasting available automatically) This was the drive home on back roads but once used to it the economy was as good at NSL,s.)

I have not driven one of these Karoqs with this drivetrain. I have had for a week a VW Golf 2.0 TDI 115ps DSG. It could do very good efficiency. The DSG in D pulling away from a standstill was dire. The shift from 1st to 2nd. I had to put it to S when stopped at a junction and have it shift up and get a move on. Otherwise it was good and fine in D. 70 plus mpg was easily achieved.

I had a auto (non DSG) 2.0 Tiguan diesel 4x4 (2009-2019) and have a petrol Karoq. All prevoius cars to the Tiguan were petrol. I was tempted in 2009 to Diesel due to the prevailing company car rules/allowances at the time and the fact that it was meant to be a lower total cost of ownership. what a crock that turned out to be!! Personally, where we are right now, I would not even entertain a diesel. At some point you will pay for the choice even more than you do now (fuel price, emissions charges, crippled to death by all teh tech required to be allowed to drive it, road tax changes that will inevitably be coming down the tracks). Add to that (despite all of the refinements over the last 10 years) it is still a rattly, noisy and smelly and smokey engine/fuel imho. and it will only really persist in commercial vehicles. Agreed, the low down torque - I do miss and the fact that it is pretty much impossible to stall if it is a manual in traffic. I dont miss the low red line, the glow plugs in a cold winter and sounding like a 1980's minicab when you open the windows - despite trying to convince yourself that it is not really that bad or annoying. Now....... there is a can of worms statement 🙂 - Light the blue touch paper and walk back carefully ... This is only my own personal perception/opinion and does not represent anything more than that. Cheers, Paul

Believe me when I say AS, I’ve done all four of mine - two more than once - and you cannot see the repairs, except if you’re 6” away from the damage and even then it’s still not easy. As with most things, it’s down to the skill of the repairer.

Latest project completed on Gandalf - added ambient lighting to the inside of the door pockets, so I can actually see wat stuff is in there. Wiring is piggy backed off the door warning light, so it turns on and off with the door open/close. All 4 door pockets now have ambient lighting 😁

I hope it gets resolved for you. I have no idea if the noise you are hearing is in any way normal/abnormal/terminal or a "feature" but someone will know (if they can work out what is the issue noise and not just recording artefacts as you struggle to get it down on a recording). Just a couple of suggestions:- A better sound recording will really help the "real experts" on here to give you a better idea - most of us are just enthusiastic amateurs like you. Notoriously difficult I know (been there - tried that) but it will be worth the effort. You can also use the recording to demonstrate it to the seller/dealer when you (ultimately) have to take it in to them for investigation. I hope it had a good used warranty!! When I did my recording my foot was damp and there was a sound like a squeaking rat as my foot moved on teh pedals and a farting sound due to a poorly positioned mic/phone which certainly muddied the waters. You will be much much better served and helped by the various experts in thier particular field of interest areas if you put your car model, year, engine size, gearbox type, fuel type, 2wd/4wd, tyre rim sizes, and any extras you have on it from factory standard, Sound system type etc. into your profile as well as your (approximate) location. Good luck. and..... The DQ200 is not a lemon. It had some issues in the past (pre Karoq days mainly) but all technology can be problematic and there is always a percentage of issues. Don't believe the nay-sayers. It is such a popular gearbox (built probably in the millions) that even a small percentage of issues get amplified to death on forums etc. I would certaily be asking the VAG garage if all of the gearbox and engine management updates have been applied to your car. They will know. If you purchased it from a non-franchised dealer or privately then.... Well.... I don't know..... Talk to the VAG dealer about the All-in-one - In my humble opinion it is worth having if you don't already have it. Look out the threads on that. Cheers, Paul

Yes, This Is Done The Same Way On Pre FL Models Too, Just A Wire Needs To Be Run From The Right Coupler (With 6 Wires) To The Left One (With 5 Wires & 1 Blank)

Hi The model is a 1.2 htp Fabia Combi. The drl lights are beside the fog lights and I have them switched off. It's the lights that are next to the headlights. Turning the light switch to position 0 doesn't turn them off. Cheers

Today I fitted An Ali Express rear centre console usb set up and a nice new black with redstiching DSG gear lever boot.

That doesn't make sense and makes me think there is something not quite right. If both wheels are removed and shocks, drop links and level sensor all disconnected on both sides there should not be anything preventing the lower are to drop enough to release the spring. You definitely releases the shock on both sides?

Welcome. Which model of Mk2 Fabia is it? (With a vRS the DRL,s are also the Sidelights but when the Sidelights with the headlights on they are not so bright.) Is it the Side Lights, or DRL,s (Day Time /Day light driving lights.) ? Parking lights are a front and rear sidelight on when the ignition is off and the indicator stalk is down. For when parked.

Would the people who do the refurbishing not be the people to ask? Do they not remove tyres and fit ones? If you get no answer here maybe ask in this thread. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/308928-tyre-fitters-who-do-not-mark-your-alloys-and-those-to-avoid/page/3

Hello @stevoablett I have looked up your fault code - a 1.4TSI driver on the VW forum posted the same fault (012480 - P30C0-00, fuel quality) - soft limp mode. Suggested causes were - - 1- possible faulty knock sensor, or - - 2, internal damage (broken piston ring lands) in engine causing detonation (pinking) and triggering the knock sensor, which is not able to retard the ignition timing any further. - compression check is required to check for this. Original poster on the VW forum eventually cured his issue by using a proprietary fuel injector cleaner. Good luck.

First clean for my Octy that I picked up on Wednesday this morning. It was "clean" but didn't have any form of paint protection on it and lacked that shine. Wasn't beading or repelling water at all ✅Rinsed ✅Snowfoamed ✅Rinsed ✅pH neutral shampooed ✅Rinsed ✅Dried ✅Paint Sealant Treatment ✅Ceramic Waxed Inside all vacuumed and cleaned too. Then it peed down rain...

Hello Steve, quantity doesn't equal quality it is possible that you have picked a contaminated batch of fuel (or mis-fuelled) and it has taken a little time for it mix with the tank contents. Water entrained in the latest fill up could do this.

^^^ Is that a lost in Translation or a VW Group use of 'Parking Lights' and what is known in the UK as 'side lights' or 'position lights'? Sidelights are not 'Parking lights' in the UK. one front and one rear light at the road side with the indicator stalk down and the cars ignition off is the 'Parking lights' on.

If anyone follows me on Instagram the car is up for sale although not done a proper advert yet, just getting the finishing touches done and a full one will follow. just getting new tyres all round and changed front pads for some Brembos, going to be a great steal for someone up at 6.5k

It looks like the "eager-beavers" that worked (or pretended to work) on your car didn't want to leave any digital trace of their failures (inability to fix the problems reported by the user).

Save us from Emmetts and Grockels.

Try finding a safe quieter stretch of dual carriageway with nobody on it. 70-10MPH firm braking (not quite emergency stop) and do it 4-5 times with suitable time between them to make sure you don’t get any brake fade/heat issues. That should clean up the surface well. When it’s all cold you can run a wire brush over the very edge of the disc (not the braking surface) to get rid of any there, but that isn’t required.