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@Paws4Thot @EnterName @skomaz @kodiaqsportline @J.R. just fyi, cleaned the topic up as 'guest' has requested to leave.

I replaced my cracked cylinder head about 2 years ago, absolute pig of a job on the floor in my garage! Just steer clear of a dealer as they seem to lack the knowledge for correct diagnosis and you'll end up out of pocket replacing stuff that won't correct your issue... A VAG specialist will see you right more often than not.

More likely oil cooler than head gasket if the sludge looks like oil contamination.

Glorious earlier today......

If you are giving it away can I have first refusal please? You can keep the £20K, I will take it away for free.

It would be a lot more than £1k from anyone done correctly as you must not reface VAG Diesel cylinder heads and these heads are known for internal cracking. We use new AMC castings and the job comes out at around £3k. Geoff’s car says to me oil cooler anyway as Pete said.

Before you think about repairs to a gasket which you do not know has blown have a compression test done, if that does not reveal anything then a coolant sniff test for combustion gases, before either of these have someone experienced look at the sludge.

Hi, I registered to report another one happening in Hungary. It's a CZD 1.4 TSi Octavia from 2015. From what I've gathered from local forums this is not a well-known issue in Hungary, I found only one other example. Did any of you manage to repair it on site? My car is stuck in a very narrow underground parking lot and I have doubts if a tow car will be able to get in (the Octavia can barely go through the front gate, well, I am very happy with the front parking radars). For what I've understand the repair may or may not necessites draining the coolant? I am not looking to do it myself, but any similar experiences would greatly help my understand how I can get the car up and running. Sorry if my English is somewhat lacking, usually I talk in Euroenglish which does not have the same flow as proper English 🙂

It depends how much you were paying as to what was done over and above Oil & Filter changes.

I couldn’t do one on the deck anymore, it would finish me off.

The vehicles supplied to the emergency services are often fitted with Eibach suspension due to the extra weight they constantly carry

All the best of wishes for her and the Block family, friends and team.

As stated above ^^^^^

Drain the oil, is it full of coolant?

They don't appear to proof read their brochures.

The axial loading from the clutch release bearing compressing the clutch diaphragm will stop the outer mass from flapping around.

Got a message on the infotainment screen on Friday that the 1941 OTA update was available. The update started and had reached about 0.5Gb when I parked the car up. I made another couple of short journeys over the weekend and each time the download resumed and got up to about 1Gb. Came back to the car this evening and the update was no longer showing as pending. And the SW version was still 1848. On a possibly unrelated note on the journey today the sat nav had a bit of a melt down and half way through the drive decided I was about 5 miles from home as opposed to the 30 I actually was. Has any one experienced similar or have any idea about when/if the 1941 update will reappear?

And they reckon a DMF is the way to go as the clatter and vibration from the diesel engine is significantly reduced. Apparently some people who replaced a DMF with a SMF were not impressed with the differences as far as comfort and general running. Almost twenty years and 150K from a DMF I guess its a DMF for me in the spring (!)

Compression test on a diesel presumably involves removal of all glowplugs, which carries a risk in itself. Ask your garage what they would recommend, but maybe say that you think it could be the oil cooler (relatively much cheaper job compared to HG), see what they say. If you plan to do any diagnostics yourself, I think dropping the oil to look for coolant is a great suggestion. It will separate out and come out of the drainhole first, I think, if present.

Kamiq uses 5 bolt with 100 spacing and centre bore of 57.1mm Kamiq come with 16, 17, 18 inch wheels in various European countries, tyre sizes are different so outside diameter only varies by few mm. From memory some with biggest diameter won't quite fit in wheel well (literally just few mm to big, although tyres with worn tread (so few mm smaller) will. A special space saver skinny tyre is also an alternative, but bear in mind if you have 18 inch wheel with 215/45 R18 tyres they are obscure size so don't be surprised if got to wait few days for a replacement to come from central warehouse if get bad puncture, as unlikely to be one in stock at local centre.

Try me Please read this: All adverts should be as comprehensive as possible. this helps you, us and any potential buyer. I'd say the ad as it stands won't generate much interest, or it might, you can never tell. We put the template in place so it's easier for you Nice motor though, I have the hatch equivalent. Very under the radar I was looking for an estate when I got mine. Does it have dcc, canton?

I can also vouch for the 1.4TSI, the wife has a 2017 Octavia SEL FL DSG with this engine. Very good performance for a 1.4, but also on a gentle run it can do 55-60mpg with the two of us in it (summer time, drops a bit in the winter) it is a very refined engine (I would say that as I have a Superb diesel). I have heard the 1.5 cambelt can be rather expensive to change due to the equipment required to set it up?. There is also less to go wrong compared to the 1.5TSI such as no cylinder deactivation on the 1.4, and no PPF.

From memory the non scout 4x4 suspension is the same as the scout - based on ours that had the rough road package. The only difference was is tyre size that gave a slightly higher ride height.

Yes, but you need a specialist compression tester; it will put a "normal" petrol tester through the bonnet!

Plucky little 16 year old 😎 When she took it out for the first, 'getting used to it' drive, and then sent it, someone started cutting onions in this house too

Update: Checked oil dipstick and there is no emulsified oil and what is on the dipstick does not look thin. Can you do a compression test on a diesel? would that give a clue if it is head gasket? Is there a way to diagnose if it is the oil cooler? There has been a previous loss of coolant which the garage put down to a pin hole in a hose. Now i'm wondering if this is the real cause. I'm thinking the next step is to get it to a garage for further checks. Seems like it might be woth spending the money? Thank you all for the advice much appreciated.

I do like when a 5 minute job really does take 5 minutes 👍🏻

Hello @blackedition welcome to the forum. Not sure about the Mk2 - but in the Mk3 there is a tick box option in the MIB infotainment menu (IIRC - 'convenience opening') for selecting 'ALL' or drivers door only to unlock, check if the 'ALL doors' option is ticked.

Details for the HEX+CAN: On a 2019/2020 car, I'd expect a HEX+CAN to be able to access some modules but not all For full compatibility, you'd need to upgrade to a newer interface like a HEX-V2 or HEX-NET.

Photos? Spec? Detailed service history? location? You can’t expect someone to hand over £20,000 based on a 1 sentence description!

Thank you very much for your reply. It has so cambelt it is. Many thanks again

Surely not ,a VRS 2.0lt with 13" wheels

@mccririckIt is 65 pence a kWh on a fast charger. and a Rapid is 85 pence. Tesco is just 44 pence for the 7 kW, still too expensive IMO. Sheriff Brae, CPS is 50 pence a kWh on 7 kW chargers. All just crazy prices. What is wrong with plugging into the 3 pin at home if you can at 27 pence and getting about 2 kW an hour in?

The latest octavia brochure has this in the Specs ** Please note if a tow bar or tow bar prep is not fitted..............................................

I realise this is a long time after the original post, but having finally got the maps on my 2021 Octavia mk IV updated manually, I thought I'd share the process. My SatNav system is Columbus MIB3. For context... The Skoda salesman who sold me the car told me I could update maps manually, but I'd tried following the instructions on the Skoda update portal and got nowhere. I'd downloaded the maps (Central Europe) onto a 64gb USB c stick and inserted it into one of the ports by the gear stick. I left it in the car for several days, and nothing happened. The car was due to have some warranty work done, so I thought I'd take the USB stick and get the garage to upload the maps for me. When I collected the car, the service reception told me I needed a subscription, based on what their 'master technician' had told them. I made the point that I'd been given different information from the salesman, who just happened to be passing. He re-iterated that I did not require a subscription, took my USB stick, and returned 5 minutes later saying "All done!". So I asked him how he did it, and subsequently played with the system to see if I could do the same myself. Step 1 - press and hold the menu button until you get the page showing "software/update". Step 2 - Select option "software/update" Step 3 - press "start update". Wait a few seconds, while the screen goes blank, and then enters "engineering" screen. Step 4 - select "update", then select which USB port to take data from. This should trigger the start of uploading of new maps data. The file is about 28gb (Central Europe), but 64gb drive recommended. I'm not sure how long the process took, the salesman said it should be completed by the time I got home - about 40 minutes. My maps version has gone from 20/07 to 22/12 which is supposed to be 2023/2024 maps, so it was indeed completed pretty quickly. It helps if you have a high speed USB stick, which reduces the data transfer time significantly. Hope this helps...

glad to hear they are offering it out at least and not bothering just because admittedly I haven’t even looked yet, did eye up a carbon one a couple months back but not for that price 😳

Hey Entername, no worries, to be honest I’m just glad someone was interested enough to look at the thread after I uploaded all the photos 😂 and yes I started driving back in 79 so have had a few motors. I really really wish I’d been smart enough to hold on to the minor pick up and the mini clubman’s are costing really strong money and of course the mk1 escort has become iconic too. Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

I finally bought and installed this one: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHzt4Jl Plan to need several hours to install it if you buy the same or any equivalent. Videos on the website are a joke. The way to remove the housing around the inside rearview mirror is not the right one. You have to remove both left and right parts before rear housing indeed. Pay also attention to fix the video cable to existing harnesses with tie-wraps so it doesn’t disturb airbags if they need to blow out. I´ve routed the video cable along A-pilar, then down under front and rear door steps, up along rear seat backrest, behind upper plastic part of boot side panel, then up inside D-pilar, thru the rubber hose arround tailgate cables and rear washer hose, and finally thru the upper part of taigate. I only had to drill a small hole on the rear window housing to make the rear cam cable go thru it. I had to screw the cam, since the double sided tape doesn’t stick enough on the grained plastic. Pictures coming soon. Test pending.

My latest acquisition......

My first and current Jaguars. Whilst the XJ is lovely the S type was surprisingly decent (and extremely cheap 😀

For the future I've solved by taking it to car electrician who coded it with ODIS and everything works like a charm. Some forums tell that you can use newer veraions of Trailer recognition module that have been used, not new( new one is not initialized therefore it needs to be addded by ODIS). So I have towbar 565803881H and 5H2907383 module and everything works. Cheers and thank you all for the help.

Yes, another report getting dismissed in respect of any real need to prevent this failure actually happening, as I found when I contacted them only as a "concerned owner", the trigger point for action has not been reached - yet, so "all is good" in their world. Edit:- there must be quite a few drivers that do not have a "good" sense of smell, or appreciate a drop in engine performance - and so "bash on" - but VW Group and DVSA are probably not bothered too much about them.

This is theory When you touch the pipes and follow the hot ones of each one then you understand what actually is happening I know this information from SSPs but practice has proven otherwise The charge cooler draws directly from expansion reservoir and return to it and is the non problematic part and is quickly bleed of air bubbles. The engine and cabin heater takes some cycles and driving to fully bleed out the bubbles. This is what I have learned during my testing after water pump replacement.

All the best in Jaguar land. When you realise the error of your ways we will still be here 😜