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The most glaring lights for me are police/emergency service blues in LED form. Fine in the day, but when it starts getting dark, they’re blinding to the point you can’t see. All they need to do is fit an ambient light sensor that enables/disables a dimming circuit or just run them at half brightness all the time. They’re so much brighter than older systems. Number of other vehicles have very bright lights, but again this could be improved by changing the light colour. Far too many high K lights, very blue in colour light out there. If they removed some blue and added some yellow (warm white not cool white) that would help. Personally I’m happy with pure yellow too, but I used to use them in winter so am used to them. Saying that self levelling was required for Xenon lights, but not for all LED. That’s something I would change too and also I’d probably ban the sale of LED bulbs in Halogen sizes.

Finally, managed to get this one: 35353 😊

It is worth mentioning that on both my Yeti’s the dealer told me I couldn’t have 16” wheels with the SEL trim. I called Skoda (UK) and after some debate they told me to place the order with my dealer and they would intercept the factory order and change the wheels from 17" to 16” with higher profile tyres. The order went through and both times I collected the car with 16” wheels as promised. Hence an original member of the 16” club! Recently I have found VW and others refusing to change the wheels for a smaller size although entry level models all had the size tyres I prefer. How difficult can it be to bolt on different size wheels at the factory?

Indeed they do still fit them. As many with a MK4 Octavia & other newish vehicles know when they are back and fore to dealers trying to get the issues with them resolved.

I have the sister car. 2017 Passat BiTDi 240bhp remapped to 290bhp from new. 312,000 KM’s (195,000) miles. Oil changes every 10k miles. Engine is like new even on it’s original DPF. Doesn’t use a drop of oil between services. Things i have replaced in that mileage: Flywheel. Replaced DSG clutch pack as the gearbox was off anyway (160k miles) Front passenger wheel bearing recently Fuel regulator valve that sits on the top of the CR pump 2 broken rear springs That’s it apart from brakes pads and rear disks at one stage. The battery sounds like me on a Monday morning apart from that nothing else.

I've been on two wheels since the late 1960's when bike lights had HP2 batteries and the light reached the road if you were lucky. I now have five lights on my bike (three rear, two front) and according to where I am, I might use a head torch as well. The front one for seeing with, is as good as a car headlight (and better than some), and it's no trouble to have it angled down so it doesn't blind anyone, and up on unlit cycle paths. It's just common courtesy. Both my car and Mrs Gaz's are all LED. The Polo's seem more intense than my Golf's, but they're both adjusted as they should be and cause no issues that I'm aware of. I've only been flashed once and that was my mistake for leaving my main beam up, when they should've been dipped. George's anniversary and recollection of his bike accident is a good reminder about bikes. I do worry about my Daughter as her home to work is on some unlit roads. But she's got really good lights (LED), has good protective clothing, and a bike that's powerful enough to get her out of trouble. I like that I can see where she is, and where her bike is, whenever I want (she likes the reassurance too - she can see where I am as well). She'd be mortified if she were to experience the light output on my 1978 Honda Camino! 🕯️ Gaz

I saw this yesterday. VW still talking the talk about a 'new UP EV' https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/volkswagen-id-1

A few from Attenborough nature reserve. Lots of detritus from recent flooding, but glad to see the place appears to be large intact ................

The switch on the dash only stops the stop/start from working but resets it's self after every ignition cycle. This will not change the charging system. Would suggest charging the battery regularly with the use it is/not getting. Yes, but the car needs to be programmed because of the change of battery type. An AGM is better than an EFB type. Thanks. AG Falco

The LED,s might well be an issue, and MATRIX headlights also. But then there are vehicles in the UK that have poorly set headlights from the factory, never checked at the PDI and maybe picked up after 3 years on the road at the first MOT.

Definitely getting worse. Lots and lots of LED replacement 'bulbs' available and lots and lots of people too selfish and/or unintelligent to know they cause problems for everyone except themselves.

H Folks - first time post from me. Apologies if this duplicates something else but nothing showed up on my search. I recently took delivery of a (new to me) 2020 Octavia but after about 1 month it's begun to smell of old cigarette smoke. I've got various remedies underway but one of the things I wanted to do was change the cabin filter. There's a few YouTube videos out there with different methods but I found that this one worked really well and I had the whole job done in about 5 minutes. I would say if you have fat fingers it may not be the easiest, but I'm sure pushing down the damper bar with a screwdriver would also work. Hope it's useful.

I exactly think that when the EPB is engaged, the motor is powered until the current reaches a certain value (indicative of the applied pressure). When the EPB is released it winds back a specified amount, just enough to ensure that it is not pressing the pads to the disk, but not much further since it moves quite slowly (the pitch on the worm drive is very fine) and it needs to be able to be re-applied fairly quickly. So far so good. But over time as the pads wear, very gradually the distance it motors to apply the EPB is very, very slightly more than the distance it travels back to release it. The operating positions of both “on” and “off” move closer to the disc. So when it comes time to replace thin pads with fat new ones, just releasing the EPB doesn’t move it back far enough, you need to tell the computer to wind it right back. That is wot I exactly thinks

So just to be clear, you released the EPB in the normal way, you removed the calliper, took out old pads that were worn near the limit, pushed the piston in and installed new pads and got the calliper back on, on a Skoda Superb? I could see this working if the old pads were not much worn because when the EPB unlocks it obviously goes back a bit further than it needs to to release the brakes. But not so far as to make up the difference between well worn pads and new ones. Put it another way, if you don’t need to electrically retract the EPB when changing the pads, why did the people at Škoda (well, VW of course) go to all the trouble to write the software to create the electronic retraction function? It doesn’t seem to make sense. With all due respect, I remain unconvinced!

You need either Bolero 5Q0035842x / 565035842 or Amundsen (with built-in OEM sat nav) 5Q0035874x / 565035874 (plus SD card with maps and GPS antenna). It's not possible to activate Android Auto officially, new unit must be patched and then personalized to your car's equipment. I can deliver such unit, either Bolero or Amundsen, in Plug&Play version. If you are interested pls contact me on PM.

At the end of the day, if you're happy then nobody else's opinions matter.

The 3 or 4 letters in front of the engine number on your V5 registration form are the engine code.

Yes, there is a fair amount of suction at the oil filler cap when the engine is idling, and some at the dip stick too. Removing either when the engine is running results in increased idle speed. I think this is normal, however what is considered to excessive vacuum in the valve cover I don't know. The vacuum level has never been measured on my car and I don't have a reference valie for what the normal range is. What I can say though is that after the engine has been operating for a while, say several long journeys, the dip stick is really hard to remove, for instance to check the oil level (engine off obviously). I'm not sure if this is just a design issue or whether there is excessive vacuum which is pulling a small amount of air past the dipstick seals and drying them of oil.

Took my Superb in to fix the inoperative Driving Mode feature. 1/2hr late in starting the job and after 2hrs said they couldn't work out what the problem was so was booked in again for the week after to give then time to consult Skoda HQ. Again 1/2 late starting the job and after another 2hr wait they came back to say the Skoda HQ fix hadn't worked, at which point it was then re-booked for an all day session the following month c/w courtesy car. Annoyed I then left and discovered that they had actually fixed the problem but had neglected to do a re-start which is why they though it had been unsuccessful. Not much faith in this crowd and won't be using again.

The housing is number 7 in the illustration, it is at the back of the engine (gearbox end) I would connect an OBD scanner that can do live data to see what temperature is being measured by the temperature sensor.

All along I’ve had the feeling that the electronic method of retracting the piston is a service tool for dealerships that allows them to have a way of doing it without any real skill and it’s quicker and cleaner than push/wind. The pistons on mine have the cut outs to take the winding back tool but now I don’t know whether to push or push/wind. How can I tell if I have TRW or ATE ?

Sadly a young motorcyclist in South Ayrshire was discovered dead sometime after his accident. (9 hours) Having a device that can alert Emergency Services in the event of an accident seems just like common sense, as long as it works with the emergency services. Maybe it is the UK that is behind other countries with SOS calls from vehicles. I really know nothing about what my car does as far as the system on it if i press the SOS, or it gets activated. I know when with the SOS in my Corsa i had was pushed a few times by the grand children and nothing happened & i was only told later they had done it. (The Matrix headlights were very good, the Full Beam was very very bright and lit up some big road signs off in the distance far too brightly.) http://bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-glasgow-west-67390020

42kWh is a fair chunk of most EVs batteries (50/60kWh) and you'd need to do a fair daily distance to be not able to keep it topped up at a home charger for cheap rate. Public EV charge costs have gotten ridiculous in some cases; when I first had the PHEV, I was charging for free at loads of places, which was unsustainable and a host of issues. I now won't charge in public unless it's around the home price. In Canada and the US I had a Tesla on rental and the network of supercharging was great, dead easy to use and cheap (compared to UK rates). In terms of my PHEV I tend to get 30-35 miles in summer and 25 miles in winter. My commute is hilly and stop start which is terrible even in an ICE (the Karoq gave me awful economy at times) and I think the EV has saved me a good chunk of cash.

That is a sign and warning that the battery needs charging. Best is not to wait for any warning messages or lights but rather when required charge the battery in some way. The use of an appropriate charger maintainer and fully charging the battery will give you peace of mind that the battery is full rather than assuming so with any drive of the car. That might be an error to rely on that, a battery that is low may start the car and the lights seem bright enough. It is better not to let the battery get too low as and low too often as it is more difficult for the battery to fully recover again. There are a lot of very complex computer programs on the car, the computers run on 5v so if the battery gets too low all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights might appear perhaps worrying your mother when possibly all that is required to get rid of them is to (fully) charge the battery. If you want you can do what others have done and disconnect the grey connector at the negative battery terminal clamp and this will disable the stop/start An AGM battery is compatible but needs 'coding' in. I and others have put loads of information on this forum and site about the battery (and its importance), on checking the state of charge of the battery and charging the battery but if you have any more questions on it or the stop/start just ask, someone will usually reply, often with others replying.

2026. The USA & UK just started what might become a war in the Middle East. We will see how Qatar get on encouraging the quicker introduction of small EV,s as a share holder in VW. VW get a lot of Media / Publication space on what they plan eventually to do. Usually from Haymarket Media Group / Autocar. Then Auto Express and others rehash the articles. AUTOCAR might have gone on this.

D1S-12V35W

If you look at the first video in the article the flames appear to be coming from a reasonable way up the rear of the bus. Batteries usually are as low as possible and so I wouldn’t be certain they are the initial cause. circle back though, and whilst there a limited fires where that battery starts the fire there are probably more where something else does and could engulf the battery. As with all things there is a period of time until technology in one area catches up with another. In this case fire fighting tech and regulation will catch up and will need to. i now await hindenburg newspaper headlines for hydrogen powered freight.

Yesterday 11th January was the anniversary of me losing my leg when i was 17 years old. 5.05 PM and heading into Broughty Ferry from Monifieth. 30 MPH limit at the border Barnhill to B/F and no traffic my way just a bus behind a bit and traffic nose to tail coming towards me. Snow piles still at the side of the road from the past weeks. I see an indicator flash 'White', it was a Ford faded indicator. (I was able to give the statement 10 days later about the indicator and the car that hit me, a company car.) He cut across out of the traffic to go down the road to my left and hit the crash bar on the bike and that took my leg off below the knee. It went over a wall and hit a ladies front door. She was a nurse. A dentist got out of a car and put a tourniquet on using his tie. The police were very near, they were right there. Seemingly observing traffic. Then one was being sick at the side of the Post Office / Off Licence. Later their note books went missing, but i found witnesses. Like the one that was crossing to the post office and knew 2 police officers were there. She and another had been asked for statements and gave them the night of the accident. These statements were lost. The car that i supposedly hit on his own side of the road did not stay there blocking traffic, he drove down the side street & parked. The person stopped at the top of that road indicating right then moved and went and parked on the main road facing to Monifieth. REALLY. That was so strange. Both the driver that i supposedly hit on his side of the road not across into the side i was on moved, and the one that was waiting for a break in traffic to get on the main road / bus route. As it was traffic was not moving as my motorbike was up the road a bit at a bus stop. They were in there cars seeing what was going on. The Ambulance was there in minutes and i was taken to DRI / Dundee with a police escort through the rush hour traffic fully conscious and with the leg in a blanket on the other side of the ambulance. 2 years later i had my leg amputated above the knee. I am very vary aware of oncoming vehicles and what the might or might not do, and cars with faulty lights, especially drivers side lights out.

I used to apply the products in new and used vehicles pre sales. With products that were from trade suppliers and at trade prices. Costs nothing like those above. I know the Commission that the Sales Executives could get for the very lucrative sale of this Service. I know what was done when as part of the deal this might be given as a no cost incentive to get a sale, and then how much goes down as the cost of this in the Profit from car purchased, prepped and ten sold and taxes paid on profits. Sometimes the cars when bought at Auction are then Prepped before delivery to the Dealers and having nothing else done before the new owner them. Just the Used Car Pre Check. (Flying pigs.)

DMF failing.

Bit of VCDS trickery and Bluetooth is now working. Ordered a new sat nav cable and microphone cable. Should be fully working as it should in a week or 2.

I don't get some of the above responses. You can have lights perfectly setup so they do not blind oncoming traffic. If however that car goes over a speed bump, or is travelling along a patchwork road repair or potholes. or one of you is on the brow or bottom of an incline, then there is absolutely nothing you can do to avoid the bright LED light blinding you - especially on wet roads. Any anti-dazzle implementation can only works when both cars approach each other at the same level. I've been saying this ever since LED's became popular. Another thing I keep saying is rear LEDs. Car sit with their brake lights on in traffic. They don't dazzle me ! If I sit in traffic and look directly into the rear light, yes they dazzle, but why would I look directly in to the LED light? I have no need to. When it's oncoming traffic however, the fact that I'm travelling at speed means I've no option but to look directly at the road in front of me. It's the headlights that have always blinded me, never once rear brake lights. Something else that really annoys me, and I say this as a cyclist myself... Cyclist lights. Some of them have way too powerful lights directed ahead with some cyclists additionally having a high beam LED mounted on their helmet - ( normally the lycra brigade ) I'd ban those lights for road use altogether. Those lights make no difference to what a cyclist can see, and I can see them even with an old syle lamp from the 1970's ! There absolutely no need for them. As I say, I'm saying this as a cyclist myself. Maybe we should return to what France used to do and have yellow lights.

Just FYI, if your lights are lighting up the large signs (you know, the ones well above any head height when driving) then they probably aren't 'really great' for anyone within 800yards of you, especially if it makes them too bright

Indeed, I’d’ve hated spilling some in the bay. But my point was no syringe was needed at all. The bottom hose is last to be disconnected. A quick thumb on the tank stops from spilling the liquid and a few drops on a tissue or rag below the hose, no big deal. I replaced with fresh G13/distilled water.

You rock @fabdavrav! I gave that info to the dealer and they found the part....they pulled up the first diagram first and like you say useless! V8V0857763B came in today and they have me a call. It cost €8.89, fits like a glove!

Hi, I have now replaced the number plate bulb (Pt.No.K1K9943021D £18.90 inc vat from Skoda) Also needed to replace the connector on the end of the wiring loom. I got a connector from Skoda (Pt.No.K8w0971832 £5.64 inc VAT). Unfortunately this was only the connector casing ie no pins! Pins on wire tails are available from Skoda. But I searched on 8W0972575 (the male connector Pt.No.) and I found that I could get the male connector and mating female connector with wire tails from Total Auto Connectors (PA Products) for £7.98 inc Vat with next day delivery. So I cut off the existing male connector and spliced in the new male connector. Also I bought some Permatex Dielectric Grease which I put on the electric connections. Hopefully this will last for a while.

Recent posts on the Octavia 4 forum suggest that not all Skoda dealers have the equipment to properly adjust matrix lights, maybe this applies not only to Skoda/VAG dealers but more widely?

When you spot a pointless clickbait, it's better to close the video and remove from watch history. Youtube algorithm are too good at baiting for engagement. For that reason, clickbait controversial ranty (non-informative) videos do really well, unfortunately.

tank is under the car in front of the gearbox, servo is in the front luggage compartment behind the bulkhead

I suggest you avoid Brembo brake pads with the 340x30mm front brake discs because many owners have reported noise problems over the years. The Octavia MK3 VRS pre-facelift has 340x30mm front brake discs and 272x10mm rear brake discs. The Octavia MK3 VRS petrol facelift has 340x30mm front brake discs and 310x22mm rear brake discs. The Octavia MK3 VRS diesel facelift has 312x25mm front brake discs and 272x10mm rear brake discs. Here's a complete list of TRW brake pads and ATE brake discs for the Octavia MK3. ATE brake discs have the superior coated finish whereas the TRW brake discs have the inferior painted finish. So ATE brake discs should be more resistant to corrosion than TRW brake discs. If you're looking for a cheaper aftermarket alternative, perhaps look at Jurid. Like ATE, Jurid use coated brake discs. Notice that there are two versions of the 253x10mm rear brake discs. One version is for the pre-facelift model and one version is for the facelift model. Surprisingly, both versions have the same build code 1KD even though these two different rear brake discs are not interchangeable. Octavia MK3 Brake Pads and Brake Discs TRW Front Brake Pads 1ZF 276x24mm TRW GDB2080 1ZE 288x25mm TRW GDB1956 1ZA 312x25mm TRW GDB1956 1ZB 312x25mm TRW GDB1956 1LG 340x30mm TRW GDB2114 TRW Rear Brake Pads 1KD 253x10mm TRW GDB1330 1KS 272x10mm TRW GDB2042 1KT 272x10mm TRW GDB2042 1KW 310x22mm TRW GDB1622 ATE Front Brake Discs 1ZF 276x24mm ATE 24012402581 1ZE 288x25mm ATE 24012501451 1ZA 312x25mm ATE 24012501581 1ZB 312x25mm ATE 24012501581 1LG 340x30mm ATE 24013002251 ATE Rear Brake Discs 1KD 253x10mm ATE 24011002771 (pre-facelift model) 1KD 253x10mm ATE 24011004201 (facelift model) 1KS 272x10mm ATE 24011003561 1KT 272x10mm ATE 24011003561 1KW 310x22mm ATE 24012202191 As you can see in the below diagrams of the two different 253mm rear brake discs, it's the "D" dimension that is the difference between them. So they are not interchangeable. 1KD 253x10mm rear brake disc ATE 24011002771 (pre-facelift model) 1KD 253x10mm rear brake disc ATE 24011002771 (facelift model)

You can get heated seats in a Fabia III. I have them in mine, it was part of the winter pack. Still on the original normal sized 027EFB battery after over seven years and 78K miles. Thanks. AG Falco

First post for me, similar to yourself here. I've owned my SE L for almost a month now. Not driven entirely on electric range much, but on hybrid only, short journeys kill the indicated range. I've fared okay on longer journeys. My longest trip so far was 110 miles out to Ormskirk and back. Full charge indcated 34 miles, that was pretty much all gone when the trip was done and I averaged just under 80mpg. That was mostly A roads and motorway., but some town driving. I put it into hybrid mode and let the car decide how to optimise.

You have taken most of the depreciation hit on a new vehicle, why subject yourself to that again?

In TPIs you will find how much time (time units) fixing should take. Based on this number Skoda compensates the work of workshops. Now imagine how much money they save when they don't force updates and there are many people like me, who had issue only once and couldn't get bothered. I'm not a fan of such approach when it is something concerning bigger issues, like we all had with faulty infotainment software or comms modules, and I'd rather make it illegal for them to keep fixes for themselves unless car owner complains. But I'm sure they'll find the way how to make workshop a scapegoat and not bear any responsibility as a brand. In the end, they issue service campaigns to fix stuff, including software, and dealers don't bother contacting car owners and booking appointments for that either.

Same problem here. The conversation with the dealer will now become much easier thanks to the info provided by @djmartzian. Reading the attached document provided by @djmartzian, makes me wonder what "Observe Service information: KESSY - key adaptation, instrument panel SW update 2040173/2!!!" is all about (page 3). And again, I find it extremely annoying that Skoda instructs dealers not to apply updates unless owners make specific complaints. They've known about this bug in their own software for a very long time (according to the document) but still the update was not installed when I had my car serviced approx. 4 months ago, just because I did not mention it. I thought this was one of the many issues that would be solved after the installation of 1941 (which was done by the dealer on my request at the last visit), but no no. Yeah, yeah, yeah, it's my fault for forgetting to mention it at my last visit (the list I had with me was loooong but obviously not long enough). I knew from before that you have to make specific complaints. But, is this behavior actually legal? They've sold a faulty product. They have themselves investigated and documented that their own product is faulty. I'm paying them to service my car but they don't bother fixing what they know is faulty. I mean if several owners have had for example a problem with the same hose in the engine bay causing what Skoda deem to be a minor problem, and Skoda investigates and finds that the hose used in the manufacture of cars during year N is defective, then are they not obliged to replace that hose the next time an owner of a car manufactured year N pays to have hers/his car serviced at an authorized Skoda dealership?

I managed to get a video of the flickering but the dealer didn't ask. As you say, it'll vary from dealer to dealer, and I have managed to build a good working relationship with my dealer which I am sure helps a lot.

Hello @matrix2020, Just visit your dealer with TPI No.: 2068282/3 which stands for Digital instrument panel (FPK) - flickering indicator in your hands, and ask them to update the software version on the Instrument Cluster (module 17). I've had exactly the same problem that has been fixed one year back with the update to version 5370 for my car. Good luck! 2068282.3 Digital instrument panel (FPK) - flickering indicator.pdf

£17,000 is Clickbait & just spin. There are comments with that article which are correct. A VW e-Up! is over £23,000 & a SEAT Mii nearly the same.

@wyx087 In the real world there are a lot of greedy barstewards and politicians that allow them to be because they are as well. http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-64332617 Maybe time that MP's travel expenses are worked out a 7 pence for each 4 miles travelled and no more to be paid other than they can get assistance to lease a Renault Zoe.