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My new beast. I got I just before Christmas and absolutely loving it so far.

Creating their own EV network is smart, just like it was for fuel stations. 1) it’s can be a loss leader to bring people to your stores 2) or you might make some money off it 3) people will likely do a big shop not a grab an item and fuel. 4) They don’t have to pay the third party so can afford to be cheaper. 5) They already have a bigger estate than any charging company. 6) Maintenance teams regularly visit the sites for store equipment so they should be maintained . 7) Bigger users get better commercial unit pricing. They already have a comprehensive set of sites over the whole country, many with cafe/restaurants. These sites have huge roofs and car parks, perfect for solar/battery to bring down the costs and offset the refrigeration costs of the stores too. Wouldn’t be bad to get some sites wind turbines too. Add 6 high 150kW/350kW to all large sites and a series of 7/11/22kW posts in the car parks and the can clean up. Police the high speed on idle time and charge after 15 minutes and both on being ICE’d and there’s an extra short term revenue stream. Offer a lower price per kWh if you buy something in store, scan your voucher before disconnect. So many stores near the main roads and motorways too, so I’m very pleased to see this. The big players have got too comfortable with some charging silly prices. https://smartcharge.co.uk

All done, thank god. The worst part was removing the torx screws (2 per side) which attach the front wing to the bumper. There's very limited space. The rest of the job was relatively straightforward. I clamped off the radiator hoses so didn't lose much coolant at all. The old radiator was in a pretty bad state. Leaking from the bottom edges due to corrosion.

Its becoming more and more a frequent occurrence, perhaps that is how how people communicate on Fessbook groups.

So this thread is going to be a bit of a hybrid! As well as outlining the projects I am doing on my car, Ill supply as much detail along the way for new projects to hopefully allow others to do the same and also to answer any questions you may have. Lets start with the car itself; Car Skoda Superb MK3 TSI Sportline Estate in Laser White Engine Standard 2.0 TSI EA888 with 220bhp Racingline air intake Racingline turbo intake pipe Racingline turbo intake elbow Transmission Standard 6 speed DSG DQ250 Suspension Currently standard original Brakes Audi S3 Front Calipers with plain fascia plates Superb 280 Rear Calipers with vented discs Drilled and grooved black discs OE brake pads Braided stainless brake lines Wheels & Tyres Standard Vega 19 inch alloy wheels with 235/40R19 Bridgestone T005 Spare wheel - Full size, same as above Exterior Standard sportline black pack Maxton side skirts Rear mudflaps Maxton splitter Maxton fog surrounds Interior Rear seat release from boot area LED boot lights White LED boot torch Electric tailgate Heated front seats Heated rear seats Heated steering wheel Ambient LED footwell lights LED front door puddle lights LED rear door puddle lights Electric/Memory front seats ICE & Security Canton sound system Rear door keyless entry Tailgate easy open/close 12 parking sensors MIB2.5 Columbus radio Virtual cockpit 3 zone climate control Heated windscreen Heated washer jets Front and rear dash cam ADAS Adaptive cruise control Predictive cruise control Adaptive lane assist High beam assistance SLA headlights Side assist Cross traffic assist Self park Rear view camera with lens washer As you can see, for a Sportline that started off with only the following optional extras: Electric tailgate, MIB2.5. Its came quite a long way and heres a few photos to show the work done so far, if anyone wants further details on any of the current retrofits, let me know, the future ones will be documented as I go. Lane Assist 3Q0980654 camera fitted as well as a new windscreen - all features enabled and fusion canbus ran to the front radar. Heated windscreen Canton soundsystem An absolutly massive retrofit requiring around 150 meters of new wiring, all corners of the car, a lot of new speakers and a lot of custom made wiring 0 Side assist/Cross traffic detection Another expensive retrofit requiring new wing mirror glass at £400 each side, new radars and brackets behind the rear bumper and all associated coding and wiring Release rear seats from luggage area & Heated rear seat elements 3 Zone climate control Another massive retrofit - stripping the entire dashboard from the car to replace the complete heater assembly to allow the 3rd climate zone, this also gave me a good chance to neaten everything up behind the dashboard and also flush the heater core. pACC/Predictive cruise control Required replacing the front radar and also a calibration of it - done perfectly with any solid smooth object and a few tape measures and patience. Facelift tailights Fitting these allowed for dynamic indicators and unlocking animation - these arent a straight fit and require custom wiring adapters and new wires running to the BCM Virtual Cockpit Quite a specialist retrofit this one, needs access to the main dealer tool for component protection and immobiliser recoding - but so worth it! Carbon clean @ 50k miles Not much a retrofit but after 50k of constant motorway miles i thought it would be a good time to give it a walnut blast. Cost around £40 in parts and my already owned air compressor and garage vacuum LED boot lights and engine styling Nothing too special, just a custom made LED torch, LED lights that dont fault and Racingline air intake and associated parts

As I drove home today, getting to the car at 6:30pm after a few hours of below freezing, other co-workers had to wait for their car to warm up and/or scrape ice. I turned on pre-conditioning as I packed up, got to a warm car without any frost and drove off straight away. Similar story this morning. 58 miles return, 8+ hours apart, was just over 3 mi/kWh at -5c in the morning and -2c return. Compared to 3.7 mi/kWh average economy over 1 year. EV's do have small amount of waste heat. After stopping at home, I checked S3XY button app and it showed battery was at 10c, up from 6c when I set off. Coolant going in was at 12c, presumably heat scavenged from motor. If EV motor are 90% efficient and used 20 kW to maintain 70mph, that means 2 kW of heat is available for heating the cabin or battery. Just need a flexible smart system to scavenge that heat and heat pump to raise the temperature to make it useful. Minimise waste, minimise energy used for heating.

A lot do perform as well. Last winter there was a big traffic jam in a blizzard in the USA and folks were stuck for days. Some ICE cars needed refilling with fuel as they were running out after running their engines for many hours and the EV doom-sayers were going on how you couldn't top up a battery on the road in this manner. I think that furore is what prompted this video. Coincidentally, someone on the ID.3 Facebook group posted today about exactly this experience he faced yesterday, stuck in a traffic jam in Germany for 14 hours in -5 temps. He was worried as his journey plan had been to stop at the next planned charger with 20% battery (58kWh usable full battery on his car). The worry was would he have enough charge left to reach the charger as he 'only' had 20% margin. He turned the heat down to 16C and used the heated seats to keep body warm. There was himself and partner in the car, kids on back seat with a blanket. When the traffic cleared he was able to make it to the next available charger (not his planned stop) with 10% battery spare. Seems a non-issue to me. My ID.4 uses about 2.1kW to heat the car at -1 to -3 and run various systems. I could maybe get that to 1.9kW if I turned the car off and only used stationary heating and heated seats. With a maximum of 75kWh (full battery) I'd be fine for around 38 hours. Of course in the real world, I'd be arriving at the problem with less than that but you can see where I'm coming from. My car does not have a heat pump, cars so equipped will use less power to maintain temperature.

Personally as far as Tesla, big battery cars on UK roads, maybe even oop north in Scotland any of the drivers can cope even getting stopped at Snow Gates for several hours as long as they did plan ahead as far as charging fully before entering the high risk areas. It is the likes of me with a 50 kWh battery or much less like 30 kWh that really needs to decide how bad it can get if roads close or you need to take a diversion. Only maybe 75 to 90 miles range if moving. Bad enough around the A9 or A90 but in Deeside and the Cairngorms getting turned back or stuck on the A93, or A939 or the roads there take you too can be horrible. Instead of going maybe 30 miles a diversion can be more than 100 miles and still in horrible road conditions.

I had exactly this issue. The 'freeing off' basically is just them working the handbrake lever mechanism on the caliper. This jams up over time. I had my brakes jam on with lots of smoke so it's important to get it sorted. I had 2 refurbished calipers fitted by the garage but these were no good after just a year. What happens is the steel rod that connects into the rear caliper to operate the pads gets rust, gunk and scale in between it and the bore it travels in. I have had much better success rebuilding the old calipers myself and fitting new seals and most importantly removing and cleaning out the handbrake mechanism. The handbrake when working well is very effective, but it's a fragile design and so it needs regular inspection. Once the mechanism starts sticking, it's needing service.

This video saved me from going mad when I changed the battery on my key. Hopefully the link works but if not the guy is called the car key man ok YouTube https://youtu.be/5H8nFH-IOUs?si=4zFIP0JndpT7hTB7

Correct. Rear wiper, fuse 66 for example.

Managed to solve it. Got a small paint brush and painted a load of general purpose grease on the mechanism. Took a little while to work it's way in but it's back to normal now

Sounds like faulty ballast on near side headlamp. If the ballasts on both sides are same part numbers then maybe try swapping them around and see if the fault follows the near side ballast. This may help

Just to confirm what NS says I honestly can’t see me changing this car until I absolutely have to.

Thanks the the OT EU posts… They can stop now on this thread thanks.

For reference here is a photo of the key with the spring in the correct position. I have found that you do not have to remove the mechanical key to pop the cover off the key as the manual states, you can just pull it off with your finger nails or a small screwdriver, leaving the mechanical key in place and saving yourself a hassle.

Huh? Im a bit confused, the fuel gauge will go up and down as you use it and fill it up? what do you mean false readings? what is it you want from this? Help fixing something? Let people know? People come to the forum to discuss and also get help, to do either of these things you’ll need to give us more than 1 sentence please.

Just manage to snap it as it disappeared behind the clouds🌛

I have the same problem yet I've seen in the handbook that a low performing battery, which I have, can be detected by the Battery Control Module and high current non-essential services (and seat heating is listed as one of them) are suspended. I hope to get a new battery in the next few days so will let you know if that solves the issue.

Well changing the oil and oil filter every 10000 km does pay out !! And 2 minutes later hit the big 400000 km !!

On a similar subject a couple from Chatsworth House Christmas Lights...

Most EVs little pollution, some say there is a bit of tyres deg which might have some pollution. Batteries now have little or no rare earth metals, phones and tablets are reportedly worse for this. I am still learning how to optimise on charging, when best to charge to bring up the battery temp when cold to increase battery ability to charge and give best output and miles per kWh. Zoe only has active cooling and UK version does not have battery heating only the nordic version do I gather. Be interesting to see if upgrade batteries become available as the cost fall so much and energy density improves maybe I could get a 60 or 70 kWh battery at a low cost especially if my 52 kWh does degrade by 5 or 10%. TESLA just dropped prices by 4 to 7 % on the continent ie retail less than £40k for a model Y standard, hopefully head that way in the UK shortly and maybe the Y will be no 1 in 2024 as well as 2023.

1940 is the factory equivalent to the 1941 update.

From the same MQB platform MK7 Golf ERWIN books in order:-

Here's a picture of a coupe with a tow bar fitted on the wrong end of the car.

A tip whilst we're on the subject of windscreen washer fluid ....... when making up washer fluid, I always use water from my dehumidifier thus avoiding limescale blockages from hard water.

Yes there are, at least if you're posting from a computer, the "link" (chain) and GIF icons.

Canton system was standard on L&K. It’s the best OE system I’ve heard. (Oh and mine has a TV tuner too but that was discontinued as standard from April ‘16 build).

I know guys which bought a much more expensive car than Felicia and still making upgrades spending tenths of thousands of euros for HP, big brakes, fancy spoilers-airwings etc and after few years again the same. I wonder why nobody is blame them? Because they have money and if you start harassing them in a forum will tell you "my car, my money so **** you". On the other hand i remember till Friday the "Skoda repair-shops" accusing the aftermarket ECU chip for everything but Monday morning they were promoting the ABT chip "it's reliable, guaranteed, no problems, will improve performance and fuel consumption" etc. If you asked for certification etc they were answering about test in Germany, Engineeres etc. Suddenly the ECU-chip was "good for Skoda" huh?

I see on the telly that the Prince of Wales was driving an Audi e-tron carbon vorsprung. About as near a British EV as the Royals can get.

Thanks Harley. I was in despair. Ploughed through many, many posts with well meaning solutions till I read your one and realised my new Duracell battery had a small red sticker on one side which warned about children swallowing it. Took the sticker off and fob works perfectly! Many thanks.

MIB2 High = Columbus MIB2 Standard = Amundsen

I'm 99% certain there ARE ignition switched fuses, even with KESSY.

two years old table, when i had to choose what next after 7 years with 2016. Superb Mk3 TSI 2.0 220ps FWD Superb Arteon Tarraco Audi A6 BMW 5 V90 CC Enyaq exterior design 1 2 -2 2 2 0 interior design 1 2 0 1 3 1 noises on uneven surfaces -4 -2 1 2 1 background noise on smooth -1 -2 -1 1 1 gear shifter functionality 1 -2 1 0 -1 -1 physical control keys 2 1 -2 2 -1 cooler under the armrest 2 - - - - - trunk capacity 2 2 0 -1 -1 1 audio sounding -1 -2 0 1 2 Radio RDS text display 0 0 0 0 0 -2 variable suspension stiffness 1 1 1 too expensive opt. too expensive opt. 1 discount policy -2 -1 3 -2 1 2 crime rating 2 -2 3 -3 -3 -1 curb weight 1 0 -2 0 0 -3 affordable price -1 -3 0 -5 -4 -2 -10 after sales 0 1 -1 2 2 1 rating: 2 0 0 -11 0 -1 €€€: 46 62 43 70 65 57 75 check links in my signature, i had problems, but I have never stuck on the road. Yes, I Would prefer Taycan

If the problem is estimated range then that's normal - the estimated range is based on about the last 20 miles of driving so if you mostly drive i towne then go on an open road the range will go up and vice versa. Most extreme example I've seen is driving 100 motorway miles on the weekend after a week urban commuting and seeing the estimated range larger after doing 100 miles than it was!

I was able to use a funnel, hose off-cut, gravity and a reluctant glamorous assistant. I bought one of those plastic pumps (not Hilka labelled) a few years back, £4 off eBay then, to use once but it got used a few times over the years so I bought a second one for coolant use, one of them packed up eventually but I still have the other. £8.49 currently on eBay. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174159016418

That’s exactly what I’ve done pretty much I’ve started mine for the last three years.

Has your car had all the software updates at the dealers? My car was fine after the updates. A friend did suggest the issue was because I wasn't starting the car properly. You should push the button to turn the ignition on, then press the clutch in and press the button again. I was just pressing the clutch in and pushing the button.

Yes it stays on

I used one of these, a cheap item that did the task brilliantly. I had the oil container on the ground, under the car and just put one hose in the top of that container and the other in the side fill hole of the gearbox. I'd recommend that item to anyone, it was really effective and simple. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-multipurpose-siphon-pump-kit/580hp

Hi, I recently joined the Skoda family and bought a Superb estate Sportline plus. So far I'm loving it and look forward to finding out more Skoda info. here.

Finally today on my 54th birthday I installed my new custom brake discs DBA T3 5000 series discs, with custom full floating hat 6081alu, black hard anodised and AP Racing H bobbins with McLaren anti rattling clips, all together balanced to 0,1 and 0,3g by www.elmet.hr -balanced part on disc I painted with blsck thermo paint up to 800C for rust protection. Fit is perfect in one hundred of mm in the very center of the calipers espetially when the measurements were taken from already machined old discs from 34 to 32mm but you newer know which side was more machined than other, so to find equal ET is little experience magic. We did it perfectly, but my friend didn't take on count 21mm spacer and outer thicker part for bobbins starts to raise little to soon over 45degree angle and when we used grease on the backside of spacer it was obvious that it sits only on that conus-grease Mark only there, hat completely clean-so for first aid we machined spacers to 130mm to accomodate them,and new spare hats will be 142mm before conus raise for thicker outer part. Raining outside so I can't perform EBC reccomended brake in procedure as they suggest (has one more step than for yellow ones). Happy as a kid

The on-line version has more detail, my hard copy that came with the car is 267 pages, the pdf is 333.

At this point probably, but I’m well underway now! the only thing I wish I started with was a sportline 280 estate with a sunroof - as retrofitting the pano roof and 4wd system is a pain in the ass (but not impossible)

Thanks, she who should be obeyed suggested Dunelm and Range, both of which (and B&M) i will try in the next week!!

Canton speaker grills Since doing the canton retrofit I wanted the matching speaker grills, but at £450 per door card and almost impossible to find the correct spec sportline door cards, I got creative and found some cream canton grills, dyed them black and fitted them perfectly to the door cards Memory passenger seat This seat started life completely manual, It is now fully electric and has the memory and easy entry features Direct TPMS Allows full view of pressures from the dashboard Brake upgrade 280 rear brakes for the added vented discs Audi S3 brakes for the front - very similar to 280 fronts but with the added face plate Ambient light upgrades As well as the standard LED lights in the doors I thought id add matching footwell lights, The front warning lights were upgraded to LED and the rears got the same matching lights. Rear kessy Adding rear kessy handles (exact same as front) was such a useful feature, but did require a fair few new wires Electronic chidlock on rear doors Only an option after 2018, I wanted it on my 2017, not too hard but does require new rear door modules Heated steering wheel Not the hardest retrofit but fairly expensive as cars before 2019 require a new airbag as the design is slightly different These are all the photos I have of the current retrofits, The next part will be all the to come retrofits and a bit more detail as i go!

The seller is greenbell14. I would advise photographing your error and messaging him as he will no doubt point you to the right firmware. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155233287375?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=x4JAut3DSZG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=DPYbVcSITUW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Got some new shoes (rims and tyres) for my pride and joy.

Updated the climate controls, to a set of facelift ones. Looks much better.

I agree front doors felt solid, but that was before using butyl mats and foam. By comparison before there were not solid at all Done rear yesterday. Installed Focal IS VW 155 set, used butyl mats inside of the doors, but this time only below reinforcement, behind the speaker. Somehow didn't feel like removing the glass and mechanism this time. Also 10mm foam on the door card. Noise is bit lower again. To be honest it slowly starts to feel almost "premium-like" Sound is a bit better again, but it's not as dramatic difference, as when i replaced the fronts. Anyway highly recommend both deadening of the doors and replacing the speakers. Those Focals are great for the money.