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Dear Forum Members, I just thought I would update that the car has been fixed. The exhaust gas pipe had a broken seal and connector which had worked loose an additional joint. No wonder it was gasping with poor acceleration. Was a difficult job to get the new part snuggly fitted but job complete and the engine is back to it's usual sound. Thank you again. Best wishes, Malc

I have a 2021 facelift L&K - and I have both the Sub in the boot and the 6 toggles in equalizer 😉

I say "go for it"; all the main commentators except Graham Butcher are on my block list anyway.

You can't turn it off using VCDS, you can turn it off by fitting normal bulbs back into your number plate lights. The only people interested in your number plate visibility are the uniformed idiots chauffeuring ANPR camera cars around.

Last post aside, can we please stop with the Hindenburg type and conspiracy theory type posts. The thread is quite close to be closed and I’m not averse to taking further measures if needed.

Hi Update, I pulled out the unit in the glove box (with the 2 SD slots) and reseated the black antenna cable atvt back. Just rescanned for stations and all working now

Hello Aquai, I appreciate that your Octavia is now about 9 years old, but I think that honestly, all of your issues would go away if you put in a decent set of OEM VAG glowplugs or at least some Bosch glowplugs. There is already a posting on how to do this: You are getting a circuit malfunction due to the fact that the engine ECU is expecting to do some testing on some electronics - that aren't there. The rough running will be because the ECU is trying to keep the engine going without the feedback from the third cylinder glowplug electronics.

It was easy to bleed it normally. I know the manual says to vacuum fill it but I filled it slowly, and ran the engine. Checked all the pipes to the turbo and charge air cooler got hot etc. rechecked it the next day and it needed a small top up and since then the level hasn’t moved off max. Before anyone tells me why it should be vaccum filled, I don’t care, it has done 12,000 miles since and no problems.

A few from this evening.........

Welcome. You have a Warranty for awhile and Consumer rights. If the Servicing record is not up to date, with paperwork surely you are not parting with £16,000. & no Warranty. It needs the Servicing to manufacturers guidelines, manufacturers recommendations before getting a Skoda Warranty is worth the money. If there is according to them a known issue they knock back a claim, yet they have sold you a warranty. You would be looking for a car that starts and drives perfectly and you want to drive at least 20 miles. Have you driven automatics or even a DSG before? No lights should be on in the dash once you are going, and after 5-10 miles when it is warmed up and you boot it a bit. If there is not much petrol in get a gallon in. How many miles has it done and how old is it? Over the past 2 years how many miles between MOT,s. Why has it been on the books for so long is the concern. Has it been getting used as a courtesy car or something. Main Dealer Servicing does not have much doing without paying for the extras. You want to know when the Spark Plugs were replaced. The Brake Fluid. The DSG does not get serviced it is a DQ200 twin dry clutch. *You want a warranty that covers it though.*

I'm assuming you have the other (non) driver's details? If so, phone your insurance and hand it over to them, that's what you pay them for. And no, assuming the other's InsCo accept liability you'll have nothing to pay.

2 years of running a VRS IV Estate, and I have recorded all my mileage, all my petrol and charging (a bit geeky I know), but based on all charging, petrol and mileage over 22k miles the car has averaged 61.2mpg. Thats on my records not what the car thinks. I have only ever filled up with Super Unleaded and I do charge from home on the British Gas EV Tarrif now so 0.09p per KwH between 12.00 - 05.30, so it cost around £1.00 to fully charge. I get between 18 - 28 miles on EV mode, depending on the outside temperature. When possible I pre-heat for cold mornings while its plugged in to maximise the battery (as long as the poxy app is working of course !!) I do a mixture of local driving at the weekends which is mostly in EV mode, but my office is 100 miles door to door, so EV mode doesnt last the distance obviously. Theres been some long trips up country and back as well. Compared to the Superb 2.0 TSI Sportline I had before, its averaging around 10mpg more over a years worth of driving. The Superb averaged 51mpg over a year. I dont drive like I am trying to save the world (sorry Eco minded people) but I also dont hack around like a looney everywhere. I have tried the Octavia in Eco Mode, and yes the mog over 200 miles was a little higher, but not enough for me to not want to enjoy the cars performance. I have tried it with the regen turned up, turned off, ive driven in Sport mode, set up individual modes etc. I find it just works best if left in Normal Mode with Regen set to Auto, and thats where the 61.2mpg comes from.

Latest Updated Speedcams - January, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( January, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - January, 2024.zip

There are two types of TPMS. The direct type with sensors in each wheel will show the actual pressures on the centre screen, but the indirect type (which relies on data from the ABS sensors) only indicates that a tyre is losing pressure. On our Karoq it does tell you which tyre is losing pressure; other brands don't and you have to discover which by yourself. I would have thought that with the indirect type, if the was a fault with the sensor there would be an ABS fault as well.

I believe it`s not tyre sensor as 2017 Kodiaq doesn`t have these, but an ABS sensor which counts wheel rotations and this way tells you if your tyre is pumped up or not.

You might find that only a space saver wheel will fit, as the 4x4 system will often eat into the space for the spare wheel. If so, 135/80R18 would be a better match to the outside diameter of the Karoq tyre sizes. It could be fitted to the same space saver rim that the more common 125/70R18 uses, ie. on a 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 5/112 57.1 steel rim. You might think that a 135/80R18 is 10mm wider than a 125/70R18, but when both are fitted to a 3.5J rim the 135/80R18 is actually only about 7mm wider than the 125/70R18. Example of 135/80R18 space saver tyre https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Continental/sContact/T135-80-R18-104M/D-123378

The bulb is ok I've tried the bulb connected directly to a 12v supply

If under 1000 miles, could try arguing with dealer, vehicle not fit for purpose as part disintegrated in normal use, therefore want remedy. (use legal term remedy). Therefore want faulty vehicle or parts replaced Free of charge, or will reject as unsuitable for Cumbrian roads. (They won't know how serious you are about rejecting, but if they do the talk and patter, ask them for a letter confirming they are rejecting any claim so you can give written outcome to your lawyer. Then after few minutes pause, ask if they will swap the wheels with some 17s and they can keep the 19s. To close the matter. See how you get on.

@Rooted Yes, similar here: https://www.sinclairskoda.co.uk/pdfs/service/service-plans.pdf. On the "Complete record", services during the previous ownership were marked as "flexible". Mine aren't. I've also noticed that the last service for the prev owner included pollen filter. Nine months later, my first service also had that on it. The full description on the Jan '23 (last) service was "Carry out Service: oil and insp (20k)". By that time, it was on 29k miles and its fourth service. Beggars belief. Still... I think I'm approaching some sort of a compromise with the garage.

You'll definitely have the same issue with headlamps. Plus as far as I'm aware there aren't after aftermarket upgrade LED bulbs approved for use in the UK and LED (and HID) headlamps need to be equipped with washers and self-leveling functionality to avoid dazzling on-coming traffic. So even if you can get an LED headlamp bulb to not throw a lamp failed fault, you will very likely fail next MOT. WRT number plate light, I think you can only code out the fault on facelift cars (as these already LEDs for some lights) Have read that these are about the only guaranteed plug and play solution - https://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/SUPERB-II/Superb-II-Combi-MEGA-POWER-LED-licence-plate-lights-system-KI-R Not cheap but assume they have the resistors (and necessary passive cooling) to simulate the resistance (and henc current draw) of a traditional filament halogen bulb. Personally I can't see why you'd want to change the number plate lamp, quite a lot of trouble and cost to go to for a cosmetic change only. I've changed the reversing lamps and the lamps built into tailgate to LED and this make the car a lot more user friendly especially in dark wet winter nights and neither throw a lamp fail fault as I assume the circuits aren't monitored as not safety critical.

So if I claim on my insurance the third party will be expected to pay this as well as their excess? Don't think that the third party has contacted their insurance yet. A copy has been stored for any insurance company to see. Damage is just to N-S-F wing so easily repairable. Yes exactly, that is why I am trying to pick the right path. I have 4 cars so don't need a loan car. The money is not my issue. One thing I am trying to avoid if possible is a claim on my insurance. The policy is replace with new for the first two years if that badly damaged. ( it is not ) Don't know how they can do this as the car is no longer sold as production has now been stopped. Thanks in advance again. AG Falco

First I suggest you purchase the foam and jack kit for the Karoq 4x4. This includes everything except for the actual spare wheel. There is a limitation to note, which is that it's only for Karoq 4x4 vehicles with a basic boot floor and standard fitted rear seats. The OEM part number is 57A093860C. If you give this OEM part number to a VAG parts department they should be able to order it in for you. Once purchased and fitted, you will be able to work out what size spare will fit...particularly with regard to the inflated width of the tyre. Karoq 4x4 foam and jack kit 57A093860C (3479CZK is about £119.70) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-pro-vymenu-rezervniho-kola-18/p/57A093860C The tyres on the Karoq 4x4 have slightly bigger outside diameter tyres compared to the Karoq 4x2. It doesn't use the 215/50R18 tyre size, as shown in the charts below. Karoq 4x2 tyre sizes 215/60R16 215/55R17 215/50R18 225/40R19 235/40R19 Karoq 4x4 tyre sizes 225/60R16 225/55R17 225/50R18 225/45R19 245/40R19 This is a Mud and Snow tyre, and also has the 3PMSF symbol so is officially winter rated. 235/60R16 has a similar outside diameter (within 0.5%) to the standard Karoq 4x4 225/45R19 tyre size. Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 235/60R16 100H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Yeti) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750851?search=ALCAR+Rim+(9257)

Talking about Company cars the best by far was a 1991 Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0GSi, smooth, surprisingly fast and a bit of a wolf in sheep’s clothing when it came to performance. Surprised many a boy racer from traffic lights- older and wiser (and retired) now but did enjoy that car.

Thank you @bigade1, this is so helpful. I really appreciate you posting these updates. 👍

After a couple of ancient Ford Anglias (in my day if you were a student it was an Anglia, Morris Minor or, if you were flush, a Triumph Herald) when I started working I "upgraded" to a Ford Escort Mk1 estate After purchase I realised an 1100LC engine meant it was best not to try and drive into a head wind and anything more than about a 1:6 hill and the passengers had to get out and push! It also made my Red Setter puppy dreadfully car sick. Coincidently about the time we got the puppy my wife visited her GP for advice about a back problem. (For younger readers a GP was doctor you could go and see in a room rather than talk to on Zoom or WhatsApp, somewhat fallen out of fashion these days). He advised the Escort could be part of the problem and advised "next time" buying a car with better designed seats. There was a used car lot behind where we lived and they had one of the really early Renault 16 and we traded in the Escort (Renualt 16 pictured below in its original battleship grey - it wasn't improved with a respray in Ford Olympic Blue - a colour that almost glowed in the dark. And the number plate was probably worth more than the car cost). Super-comfy seats, loads of space, an economical 1600 engine supplemented by really versatile seating option (the seats could be laid out to make a comfy double bed or the back seat rest swung up into the roof, hanging off the grab handles, to make a decent sized van). And the Setter puppy took to it straight away! The Renault 16 was front wheel drive with a column change which went down to a gearbox in front of the engine. And to complete it's quirkiness, the rear suspension was arranged so that one rear wheel was slighly in front of the other! Apart from having to accept that at every MOT there would need to be extensive welding I liked them so much I had five in a row before switching to the Peugeot 405 estate (having taken the advice of the local taxi trade who I was doing some work with who swore by them). None of the Renaults' quirkiness but comfortable, solid and reliable workhorses with the low running costs welcomed by those with serious mortgages. After the last 405 went nothing very special but including a couple of Volvos best forgotten; I came to the conclusion their safety record was so good becasue a lot of the time they were off the road for repair but I may just have been unlucky. And then just at the right time along came the Yeti. I'd had new cars before as company cars but this would be the first where it was my money. And what a sound investment its proved to be. (Many years ago my brother was given a Skoda as a firm's vehicle, back in the day when Skoda were the butt of many a cruel joke. He kept it several years, never had a problem throughout that time and still says it was one of the best cars he's ever owned).

No; the relay will be soldered to the circuit board inside the BCM, and there's very little chance that replacing it would change the sound, in my opinion, it's just what relays do. Try to use continuous wiper mode whenever possible, as that eliminates the annoyance and reduces the wear and tear on that relay's contacts enormously too.

Sounds a good deal if one has at least a couple of Ionity locations one might use. Peachy site at Maygor near Newport Gwent and at West Brom near the ground and at Chippenham cafe near m4 Junction. Good sites usually and good chargers. Sadly Dragon in Wales is going to be more convenient and cheaper and no subscription with the Eltroverse card.

Apologies if this doesn’t work…. Beneath the silver scroll button on the right-hand side of the steering wheel are two buttons, side-by-side. Pressing the left-arrowed button should bring up a display of options on the virtual dash that you can then scroll up and down through, using the scroll button. Trip reset is in there. Once ‘Trip’ is displayed, press and hold the scroll button to reset.

Thanks again bigade1 for all your hard work we all appreciate it.

Feeling the pressure from Tesla opening up superchargers? Ionity passport subscription fee has now been reduced. https://ionity.eu/en/network/access-and-payment 56p/kWh with £5.50 per month sub. Cheaper than Tesla's monthly price and rate is only a few p more expensive than Tesla' peak time rate (comparing with subscription). Both cancel anytime for those road trips.

That's a new one on me. Have you tried a long press the right hand steering wheel scroll button? ( I'm just guessing )

Relay was first thing to come to mind but AFAIK I've never heard/noticed any relay in my wife's 2015 Fabia, perhaps the 2019 car has a louder relay and less insulation to the sound on the car.. Unless you are hearing the relay with the engine and perhaps nothing else running at the time and your mind has locked on to this sound so you always hear it. If you don't think it is the relay then perhaps posting a recording of the audio of the clicking.

HI, welcome. Are the heated seats factory fitted? Do you get the clicking when the heated seats are switched but no clicking when heated seats are switched off? Side note, do bear in mind when on the heated seats will put additional load on the alternator and battery so do keep an eye on your battery state of charge so that you don't get unexpected warning lights or messages, don't wait for the stop/start not available all the time because the battery is too low. Internment on my 1973 car that I had up until a couple of years ago was pushing the dashboard rocker switch on and off. 😄

You mean contact between opposing sides of the void? Gab I am assuming was a typo for gap.

Looking at other similar cars I don't think their price is unreasonable for a main dealer but as far as I can make out but Heartys are only a used car dealer which makes it a tad expensive given the mileage. That said the market is still recovering from Covid and iprices are all over the place. Selling prices are low whilst forecourt prices remain high, so if the car has been on their books for 18mths then my guess is there may be very little room for negotiation, unless of course they just want rid of it. Ask for £500 off perhaps? Will they include an extended warranty? ( something they can pass any potential profit on hence reducing the cars price for not a lot of money ). The SE-L comes with a variable boot floor. The pics have it in it's lowest position - make sure it can fold up to it's highest postion ( creating a level boot floor ) and that it isn't broken. Pay particular attention to the leather - make sure there are no tears. And make sure everything works - that might take a while as there are several extras. The text says the car comes with personalisation. I can't quite make out from the photos, but if it does then make sure the car comes with three keys rather than two. I think I can just see the top of the third key behind their green ID tag on the keyring, but best check. That car clearly has adaptive cruise control rather than just ordinary cruise control as per their specs. Make sure it works 100%. Same with the heated windscreen. The car looks to also have the heated steering wheel - make sure it works. ( it could be a long test drive ). If the car was ex-fleet then the interior may show signs of neglect in places but at least the service history should be intact. My concerns? Both my Octavia and Karoq came with full leather and both were very well looked after. When I sell my cars, they're almost perfect, not far off showroom condition. That said I'm the first to admit that the leather Skoda uses isn't the best quality / fitment. Within a few thousand miles, the leather on both cars had a tendancy to sag / looks a little loose - looks like it needs stretching. The side bolsters on leather seats are man-made leather, as is the leather on normal SEL alcantara/leather seats. Even within a few thousand miles you'll start seeing creasing, it's unavoildable. I know it's only a picture, but those seats do not look four years / 50,000 miles old - they look almost brand new to me. It's defo worth looking for signs of wear around the cabin. It's one of those weird situations where if it's too good to be true... especially from an ex-fleet car. As I say my car was an April 2017 car which I bought it for £18,000 and sold August 2020 for £13k direct to a Skoda dealer, a price which I was very happy with compared to other offers I received at the time. They put it up for sale at £16k which I thought that was a bit cheeky ( it was one of the most expensive Octavias advertised on Skoda used cars ) and expected it to be sitting there for ages. Don't know what it actually sold for but it sat on their forecourt for no more than a week. You say the above car has been sitting around for 18mth? I find that hard to believe, especially given the extras. Their sales team can't be very good at their job if it's true They say the car has autodimming door mirrors. I was under the impression autodimming rear door mirrors could only be specified on SE-L if another option was selected - it may have been electric seats, Of course that was back in 2017, the 2019 specs may well have changed by then. Someone with a model of that era would be able to confirm. If it does come with those autodimming mirrors, pay attention that they're working correctly because it's a part of the car that's prone to accident damage and they're expensive to replace. In normal daylight they should look like they're tinted, but the view is clear. A damaged one may not show signs of cracks, but the view won't be clear. Hope that helps.

Many companies proactively contact (harass) TP claimants to use their own accident management services in order to reduce their costs, they will try to seduce you with offers of a courtesy car, quick turn around repairs etc, just remember they are acting in their interests not yours. Your own insurers if they know the TP has admitted liability will do the same and be encouraging you to consider medical injuries advising you to use their expert doctors for a check up "just in case", that should be fun considering both vehicles were unoccupied, once again they are acting in their interests and not yours. IF there is even the slightest possibility that your vehicle might be written off do not let anyone acting for either insurer take it away, the more they pressurise you to do so the more you must resist. I would sit back for a little while and see if the other insurer contacts you and what they propose before informing yours.

I am in north london/potters bar. I can offer these services if youre interested The electric towbar is a bit misleading as it is electrically releasing in the stow and unstow position but you still have to manually pop it up the full way. But of course, it is all possible. Virtual pedal is no issue but of course requires kessy and an electric tailgate Lane assist can be done no problem but requires the correct windscreen fitting for the A5 camera to be mounted

It only defaults to map if you use the satnav to navigate, whether that is built in satnav or, in my case, google maps. It always goed to the built in map. You can set the system to display something else, in my cas fuel consumpton since start, and it will default to that until you use the satnav. To set up what you want, you need to use the buttons and scroll bar in the right hand side of the steering wheel. The scroll bar allso needs to be pressed. I can't tell you exactly how to set what you want, and I'm afraid I don't find it intuitive. When mine shows the map, I have to press the bottom left button on the right of the wheel, scroll up two places and then press the scroll bar. May be different depending on what you require in the middle.

Awesome thanks fabdavrav. Prices seem similar to mine that have been quoted from the Skoda dealer. I will be going to a VAG independent though. They use genuine parts and it seemed like the pump came with the belt and the bolts as a kit when I called Skoda parts. As you say I expect the bolts are supposed to be one use only or something. Cheers for the pictures too Classic. Nice to see the beast and compare with a new unit.

Got same issue with my car. Voice control is broken again. Does nothing but spin no matter how you select it. Laura does not respond. I'm on 1941 Software. Was able to get it working last time by doing a full reset to factory settings. But think it breaks during one of the many updates that seem to appear after the reset. Need to get it into the dealer for investigation

They’re not.

Now this is exactly what I was thinking too. But.... the mirror units (that are lhd/rhd) as listed on ETKA dont come with the mirror glass, and the mirror glass itself isnt specific to LHD/RHD... so that idea went out the window

Yes they are identical.

I hope I’m right, but we cannot be certain. Anyway, it’s a cheap solution. Try to use silicone paste or white lithium grease. Otherwise you may ruin the bushes. If I recall correctly, there are small holes on one of the sides of the bushes, where you should apply the grease. You may try with syringe. Btw creak could also be the shock absorbers..

The actual pump part is alloy. Once I got it off I could see it was actually leaking from the impeller seal and then running along and appearing more or less where yours is.

My guess is the front lower control arm bushings. They are known to make creaking sound especially when it gets colder outside. Mine were greased(yes, not replaced..) under warranty on the Octavia and as far as I know same issue affects also Superbs

Does your car have an auto light sensor? Otherwise I cannot see any advantage of daylight running lights when the main lights are switched on.

They will not come as OTA. MIB3 can only update misc things via OTA.

What do you mean by voltage is showing low in local use?

@Nedraw you have link on PM