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Suspect I missed a pretty spectacular sunset this evening 🤦‍♂️ (and the Jag needs cleaning 🫣)

The ultimate hoon machine.

I have my car over 3 years now, I use phone in the car quite often and to me ending the call by pressing the button on the main touch screen is quicker and easier.

M3 LR Highland achieved 4.5 mi/kWh. Merc EQC said to average 2.4 mi/kWh in the drive back. I'd estimate my MY LR would average 3.5 - 4 mi/kWh. 9c is not that cold, I was getting around 270 Wh/mi (close to 4 mi/kWh) yesterday's commute at ~10c.

You're welcome. Angel Tuning are mobile and will come to you. I have no financial interest in them but I like Paul and he's become a good friend. https://angeltuningscotland.co.uk

As mentioned Octavia are fitted with minimal noise insulation material so the road noise in both my previous mk2 and current mk3 varied depending on a number of factors: Both cars with good new tyres on very smooth tarmac at any speed and road noise was almost imperceptible. Same cars/tyres on coarse tarmac and road noise was very obvious. Having said that I have experienced far worse road noise in other cars (rentals) on similar surfaces/speeds. It is not uncommon for a slightly misaligned suspension geometry to cause "saw-toothing" of the tread which causes a sound very like a worn bearing. My mk2 came with factory misaligned irs which caused the Dunlop SportsMaxx to become unbearably noisy from the saw-toothing and I replaced them at only 15k km with a 4 wheel realignment. Fairly standard road noise after that The Mk3 does not have irs in the lower specs (only vRS or AWD versions have irs) and so does not allow/require a rear alignment. Obviously the front suspension does allow/require alignments. I never found changing the tyres diagonally to reverse the rotation fixed saw-toothing or noise once it had set in. The OEM Dunlop SportsMaxx on the mk3 were fine for noise right up to the end of life at around 40k km. The replacement Michelin Primacy lasted 50k km but became relatively noisy for the last 10k km despite being road legal and no apparent saw-toothing (I even felt they were affecting the ride). New Continentals are fine so far for road noise, as usual, dependent on coarseness of road surface. I vaguely remember there was a phase where some mk3 owners were critical of the noise from a particular brand fitted as OEM. I think they were Pirelli but would not swear to it.

Any garage can fix this in under an hour, assuming the sensor needs changing (£25?). Could the connector as said.

Its a spin-off haha. But yes, I asked a question and that resulted in a discussion about tires. Its all good👍

Yes, let it go and concentrate on things you can influence like turning back the tide 😁

Let's examine the Westminster consolation (link I provided in my previous post) to see whether EV are being charged inflated prices: As I suspected, EV, being zero local emission, are still cheaper than ICE cars. I also thin 70 kWh is a good cut off point as it incentivise people buying the standard range version rather than the "long range" because they might need it one blue moon. Myself is ashamed of this.

I have the wireless charger. Don't bother, its rally slow, the phone just overheats in the little cubby hole especially if you use apple car play. Just use the USB2.0 plug in the arm rest (not the USB-c as that is dog slow as well!)

I had a vague idea that the standard procedure would be to clear all codes and then see what comes up subsequently and it's nice to have that confirmed. Also it's eye-opening ( to me ) that a service workshop would not routinely scan for any codes on a "modern" car as part of a service but I guess if the owner doesn't report a operating fault and there is no dash light, it's time and money to them to do so. Thanks everyone !

Mmmmmondeo 😉😂

@mrted83i can point you towards very good Independent mechanics when you require anything doing.

I was going to say as you got L&K your install should be easy enough to DIY, I changed mine recently and it was a nightmare but I have version B I think it is without eyelash. Expect a big ish bill to have them fitted, wheel off and arch liners, I suspect some dodgy places might say bumper off which will take hours

HI, I'm new to the Skoda world and I stumbled upon it by chance. there was a flood in my city, and my partner's car ended up completely under water. it had to be thrown away... but I couldn't bear to throw away a car with 5000 km on it, and working as an electronics engineer on BMW, I decided to restore it. It took me 5 months, working on weekends and in the evenings after work. and in the end the Skoda Fabia came back to life. I studied and learned a lot because the VAG world is very different from the BMW world.

I'd be a bit concerned about the comment about torque limits of 1000 Nm being quoted. Even the DQ500 which we have in our 190 TDI Karoq, is rated to only 600 Nm. Which tuning company did you speak to to? I've used Angel Tuning Scotland to map two TDI's to date. That includes the 150 TDI in my Yeti. I'd be inclined to talk to Paul Winston at Angel. He's a hell of a nice guy and knows his stuff.

Our vehicles are very close then. Mine is 2017 facelift SE L. Fair to say they might be identical. Your answer it is much appreciated

Hi! New to the forum. Since 2018, I am the happy owner of a Superb II 2013 2.0 TDI L&K, DSG. It currently has 250k km, and my goal is to keep it going for as long as possible. The interior and mechanically, it feels as solid as the first day. Aesthetically, it has a number of battle scars, and I don't plan to do anything about it. The reason I love the car is that it is incredibly practical, economical, and that I choose to not worry much about it. If if gets another scratch, I just shrug and move on. So that's why I post the picture below: In its most practical form, the Superb after carrying four people and their paddleboard gear and picnic stuff:

Hello, it's likely that the ABS sensor or the connecting lead has been damaged, the wheel will need to be removed to check it.

I really do like and enjoy driving the MINI especially on back / narrow roads. Also on faster good roads, very stable. As fast as i can drive and the legal speed is fast enough really on some of the best roads for fun, but the ride is terrible on the 17" wheels, 205/45 R17 All Season tyres. Good in the wet and cold, and been OK on what few miles i had them on snow. They grip well but on the poor surfaces it really is a hard hit and the car can hop & crash about a bit. So 16" rims going on and 195/55 R 16 All Season next week as i am planning a good few longer trips this year within Scotland and North of England & am going to carry 2 spares so the 17" wheels / tyres will be just fine for that. .............. Quite a good vid here from Nobby on Cars IMO. I am glad i got the current car and did not wait for the new one even though longer between the need to charge would be nice i suspect there will be snagging faults and i really could not live with the interior or centre screen and not Speedo / Info in front. I am not a fan of the heads up display and have it Off on my car as not needed.

...and they didn't have to. They can pass your your data to a third party, provided they register that party with the Data Protection Registrar as being a party that they may pass Personal Data within the meaning of the Act to. So you need to contact the DP Registrar and ask for a copy of Yeoman's registration.

I wonder how accurate these are for showing voltage and how long they might remain reliable, how the figures compare exactly to a multimeter and/or Carista doesn't really matter as long as the phone charger item gives constant results. Obviously you do as you feel best for you personally I would not bother too much with watching the battery voltage figures and just do periodic checks and/or battery charging as required and/or use the battery charger maintainer twice a year and then as required. You have a good new battery now and the knowledge to get a good life's use out of it so you can relax about the battery. All the best.

The other possible confusion is that VCDS defaults to showing all DTCs, faults and informational, but the default for the VAG dealer tool ODIS is to report only fault DTCs - so a VCDS scan will show informational DTCs that a dealer will not see by default (and hence will deny they exist!).

I agree. The client list is the only asset in many business sales.

I was driven Golf 7.5 before the Octavia. I agree. But what is the difference in driving them, according to you?

Yes, I did receive the new front springs from Eibach and had them fitted. Part number: F11-85-043-02-FA As listed in a post above, they are designed for the Audi Q2, but Eibach was confident they would also work well with the Superb, which they do. They result in a slightly larger tyre-to-guard gap compared to the rears (see image), but it doesn't offend me. And to my eye anyway, it gives the car a more level overall stance than it otherwise would have. I also haven't scraped the front spoiler on gutters and driveways since having these fitted😉 I've been very happy with the Eibach springs overall, especially when matched with an uprated rear sway bar.

Whilst the cars are essentially the same as a VW Golf, there are areas that Skoda cheapened out the build with. Lower quality sound deadening is one of them (you can retrofit the additional sound deadening if necessary). The Golf and the Octavia do drive very differently (I know this as I currently own both models).

My car went to main dealer a few times after purchase, they couldn't even manage to reset the service/inspection interval properly both times. Inspections/service intervals don't really require codes to be checked /cleared unless someone comes in with fault light or real fault. And even then if it's fixed, that's the only one that might get cleared not the whole system. To add, I've lost count the number of VCDS scans I've run for people and not one car has ever been fully clear of at least one "fault" code being logged. Often just merely caused by low battery as mentioned. Nothing to be concerned about for sure.

@Carlston's ability to gather data knows no bounds!

180k if my memory is working correctly. 👍

Really boils my **** when people drive on the motorway with high beam matrix lights, especially if its an SUV, blinds the hell out of everyone because the lights can't decide what to turn on and off and then the poor lorry drivers on the other side of the road are constantly flashing because their headlights are hidden behind the barrier but their cab isn't. It should be called High Beam Assist or something instead. I always turn mine off on the motorway.

I read that Santa Claus is real! It sounds like you are using a Bluetooth OBDII module as you speak of your phone, is the space around the socket sufficient to insert the much bulkier Bluetooth casing or is it tight? I know you say that you have used it sucessfully on another MK3 but on the MK2 for instance a normal cabled lead would work fine but a bluetooth one was giving the same problems.

Just checking, do you mean you disconnect the OBD2 (from the diagnosis port) after you have checked live data and separately to this you plug in to a 12v cigarette / aux socket a little digital device to show voltage, if so great.

I got correct model number for Bosch rear wiperblade, which suits all Karoq FL (2022 +), not only Sportline. It's: A335H Full part number: 3 397 016 317 Or short: 317-FUP I got it from local seller who knew correct model for Karoq FL, and now as we know the numbers on the box, you can find it anywhere. here it is depicted in the video. Previous model for Karoq before 2021 was A331H. And Bosch still states on that Box compatibility with Karoq 2017 +, which should be 2017-2021 really. Front wiper blades didn't change, they are common for all Karoqs, no problems.

Spring is no longer behind the mountains and quietly preparing. • Air filter: OEM code: 5Q0129620C - MANN-FILTER C 30 004 / cold climate filter - €12.61 • Cabin filter: OEM code: 5Q0819669 - MANN-FILTER FP 26 009 - €15.69 At the moment, behind and in front are VALEO wipers, but for a change, in the spring, when the snow has melted, they will be replaced by Bosch: • Front: 3 397 007 863 / BOSCH Aerotwin A863S - €17.65 • Want: 3 397 008 998 / BOSCH Aerotwin A 403 H - €7.75 Total: €53.7 • Motor oil VW504 00/507 00 Mobil Super 3000 Formula V 5W30 5L - canister is €40 Filters, wipers and oil in total: €93.7

I am sorry for your experience, I opened the ticket to Skoda in May 2023 and followed up with them almost monthly, first they said it will be done by the end of summer, than autumn . In December I visited my dealer prior to notification it by email. The dealer performed free upgrade to 1800 and cable was fixed. I notified Skoda in June 2023 that Seat works wirelessly, and Skoda was wise enough to enable this with a cost . Also on one of the brochures on the dealer I saw the wireless functionality and asked for that as well, paid approx 60 EUROS and now both cable and wireless AA work.

Yes, it's the BMS operating correctly.

Moon was bright though and my Galaxy S23's camera surprised me with it's abilities 😮

Surely you mean it's set up for RHD which would be normal in the UK...? Left hand traffic, right hand drive

Fair to say it's windy! 20240123_170437.mp4

A few from this evening.........

Sold. Sold. Sold Make & Model: SKODA SUPERB (3V) LAURIN AND KLEMENT TSI DSG 2016

Inactive after ignition switched off, a red herring. Does your 2012 vehicle have a DPF? The fans will run on after shutdown if a regen is interrupted but should stop after 10 minutes. I would find and test the fan relay, it sounds like the contacts may be fused together, it may be part of a controller but hopefully will be seperate, others with knowledge of the model will I hope advise.

Hi, I have some stone chips on the leading edge above the windscreen, some which are down to the metal so corroding. Photograph attached. What stone chip product have people had success with? Thanks,

I have worked it out. The minimum charge setting must be below the current battery level for scheduled charging to work. I was set at 50% and battery was a 8%, car wanted to charge to 50% as quickly as possible stop, then scheduled charging would take over.

Hi @kreeker, as per today, there is no 1 touch app in OBDeleven to turn on TSR. You have the app to activate TSR signs on the head-up display but it's only working if you have already TSR active. Cheers,

Brave man using a bloody brillo pad on the windscreen! I'd attack it with the razor method first.

The minimum charge will certainly be a part of the issue. If you don't need that feature then set it to 0%. I don't use the app as I wasn't getting any use from it. All my settings are entered in the car. Assuming it's the same as VW: There should be 2 buttons by the socket on the car. One for immediate charge (regardless of minimum level), which I use for when I need a quick juice mid day. Then the timer button for the times set in the car. You need to set the off peak charge time. Mine is 0030 to 0800. This covers the bulk of the charging on cheap then a bit of mains for preheat/cool. Then set the departure time so the car knows when to precondition the car for. Then you need to make sure the car can take precondition energy from either battery or mains depending on your preference. Also make sure the preconditioning is set up right as it's a separate sub menu. That should be everything. One thing to note is the granny cable isn't powerful enough to effectively precondition the car and charge at the same time.

hello I'm from TAIWAN!! nice to be here!!