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picked up a 2018 SE with a 1.4TSI Auto today, what a nice car on the motorway Ok so doesn't have all the toys but who cares ;o) new mats & bootliner on order along with a SINOSMART reverse cam which will get fitted once I get back from Scotland first week in march (presuming its come in from China by then) along with my dashcam (although I may do the front one this weekend and leave the rear until i get the reverse cam). Also ordered some black badges to replace the chrome ones, no particular reason lol Will also need to sort out a dog guard & luggage divider sometime, quite like this travall setup. Anyways odd how the perspective makes it look small compared to the GFs Ioniq!!

Due to my growing strees about this Bolero shutting down I did not thank ASFalco for doing the coding today in sunny Blandford - Thank You. It was a blast !

Not happy with the compressor and can of gel, I bought a new space saver from eBay after some generous advoce from @Modders, along with a Karoq-specific 2WD space saver kit from Caffyns Spares online. I fitted the spare on Tuesday and was surprised to see the jack, fully extended, only just managed to raise the car about 5-10 mm off the ground. The label said Octavia, Rapid. I called Caffyns on Weds to question if it was the correct jack. They called on Thursday to confirm the part number was wrong and would send a replacement. It arrived today. Dealers so called 'stealers' get a hard time from some on this site. I can only praise their customer service and quick response. Not sure if you can read the label on the photo but the difference in size is immediately apparent. I.e. the larger one is for the Karoq.

Battery tested and shows all good, with 12.9 V at rest and 14.9 V engine running. Battery now coded. Car also scanned for any faults, three old ones now cleared. Hopefully we will hear if this was successful from the OP. Thanks. AG Falco

Decades ago (1998-2001) when the 1.9tdi AFN was king of the hill, there was a known issue with minimum cranking speed. Can't remember if it was 170rpm but it seemed that some bright spark had programmed that as a requirement to start injection when starting the engine. As starter motors became tired with commutator segments damage they turned over slower and the only remedy was to change the starter motor. Not saying this is the case here

As the title suggests, I’ve been playing around with a Kufatec sound booster on my SuperB. I was never really happy with any of the EA888 exhaust options. None of them could fill the V8/EJ25 shaped hole on my heart so decided to have some fun with it. Scrounged together the parts second hand over about 12 months and eventually got it all together. There is no space under the car for the sound module so put it in the spare wheel well. This is not a big deal for me as the space saver spare doesn’t fit over my big brakes anyway so was an easy option. Used expanding foam and Sika flex to hold it in place. The module outlet faces down over one of the bung plugs in the wheel well…. I got my hands on a few OEM exhaust sound modules including the Kodiaq RS, Audi SQ5 and Maserati Ghibli. The Kodiaq module has profiles that are very diesel sounding. The Audi module is better but the way it translates revs sounds quite artificial. Profile 3 on the Audi module was my favorite. The Maserati module has the most realistic output in my opinion. Seems to have more layered and chaotic engine noises that are less linear on acceleration than the Kodiaq and Audi modules. The profiles are quite loud and day to day I’ve dialed the volume back to around 40-50% to give a slight but noticeable burble above the stock exhaust. To give the best indication of the result here is a video of the full-fat profile 5 option with 70-100% volume, irregular idle and a slight startup flare with the Maserati module… The intention is to keep this for the sloppy V8 burble and go to stage 2 and get some DSG farts on top of it.

Hi all. Registered here some time ago but that was a when I hoped for a Superb IV as a company car..... far too long a wait so I got a XC60 PHEV. VERY rapid and actual real world consumption was not at all bad. Fast forward a year, company take over, 85 years work experience for the same company walk out the door......3 people, I'm not that old! Decided to take a work break and semi retire. Needed a car though!! £20 Grand lighter and I now own a June 2020 1.5 SE Hatchback. Genuine mileage, full service history and immaculate. Did I mention under 1250 miles per year? I have questions but I'll use the search before I annoy too many people. Then, it will be a man search, I'll ask them any way! Thanks for reading.

Here is a youtube vid of a Zoe, only about eight years old but had very close to original range, cost pittance to run, think he sold it for a grand profit a few weeks later.

I think you may not be giving the EV car manufacturers enough credit about thinking ahead on this. They do do lots of testing pre launch, try to do hundreds of thousands of kilometers to full test a car and in very harsh conditions, much harsher than the UK ie colder and hotter. What EV makers have done, to varying degrees is to have buffers of extra charging capacity. In my Zoe's case the battery is inferred to be 50 Kwh, the useable capacity is 52 kWh, the actual capacity is 55 kWh. All controlled by the software. I think most EVs have over the air software reception and this could be amended, buffers released. Toyota with their BZ4 got things very wrong but reconfigured the software to give much greater range. The previous model of my Zoe ie ZE40 has actually about a quarter of the cells held in reserve that could be brought online so the range would stay similar to new many years down the years. Some TESLA also it has been showed are built with far more battery than the owner might think and those reserves of battery cells can be brought online ig owner complains range has gone down by 10% so as if by magic the car regains is estimated full range. Some EVs have just has a duff cell or two replaced and got back much range. Others have received the battery pack from a new model and suddenly doubled or tripled their range and battery packs are falling in cost like a stone ie 10 or 20% per year. I am far more worried that the price of petroleum spirit I put in my ICE cars is much effected by the whims of people like Putin and the Saudi and Jemmy the Hunt in his budget next week when at least I know the price of lecky is going down big time soon and if I fancy it I can make lots of lecky myself and can fill my EV. Don't think I can do that with oil.

@Schtum and myself are south of Stonehaven & Blairgowrie on the East of Scotland but there are people posting that give not a clue where they are in the UK & some right at the South of the UK. This winter so far has not had much snow in the UK for many other than those further north than me and i know how have and some can struggle in winters and need to get about and Winters or All Season / All Weathers are something having even if just in the wettest or cold weather which can be anytime. PS Good to see someone like @daviemck2006 posting from Macduff. Where i grew up and where we used to get plenty snow and the only place i know where people sledged using a washing line stretcher pole as a rudder. The reason this started was because Norwegians trained in the area during WW2 and showed this way as well as teaching the Home Guard and Cadets how to ski and with a staff not ski sticks. Up there Firestone Town & Country Tyres got fitted in winter and bags of sand were put in the boot.

One or two other thoughts Always refill adblue when the car is horizontal don't do it parked on a hill. When the adblue is full turn the ignition on do NOT start the engine, leave for about a minute then switch off. This sets the level in the ECU. Well that's what I've been told

^^^ Don't we all wonder, or could some not give a damn if all they do is run a company / fleet / rented car and change it every 3 years or less. With a 14 year old diesel or even a Euro 5 diesel getting good economy then maybe the occasional charge if you need into a LEZ is no big deal. It might be for those with keepers to worry if there are those with an EV, or used buyers, but then they can maybe get 'much cheapness'. Losing 20% of range or any amount being an issue with an EV is a very good reason not to get one then and nobody is going to make them. They can just carry on driving what ever they want after 2035 from the millions of non EV,s there will be kicking about and paying what ever it costs to fuel and run them. Hardly complicated. Maybe what is on sale in the way of BEV,s in 10 years will be less likely to be losing range in the same way that some apparently lose range now. Some that is.

I just top mine up as and when normally about 2-2500. I have a 10 liter container in the garage and use the 1.8 liter bottle to fill the tank refilling it as necessary from the 10L container until the adblue stops flowing out and that's it. Whether that's correct or not NFI but I've been doing it like that for 12 months.

No, it's on all orders made by 29th Feb. The car will be brand new, you will be the 1st registered owner. What it doesn't say and may be worth finding out, is is there a delivery date stipulated in the T&C's? They usually say something like odered by 29th March and delivered by 1st August or something, but I can't see that mentioned. Perhaps it's just on any order. As per above, if you're lucky you may find a dealer who 'needs' to sell a car to make their monthly sales target rather than a dealer who just 'wants' to sell a car. It once happened to me with our Ateca. I'm going to be pedantic again - you're not buying the car in Feb, you're only ordering it, which meets the T&C. The contribution is normally £2250 but if you order in Feb, Skoda will apply an extra £1000 bonus. Never say never, but from my experience, when Skoda have these 'special' offers, they don't tend to be replicated in the following months. They usually only offer them once or twice a year. drivethedeal is a good source for information on current offers. I've no idea how their prices compare to local dealers or CarWow these days. Hope that helps

The Sprint Yellow vRS was the first brand new car I'd ever bought. When I saw it had goo rather than a spare, I asked for a spare instead. I got a lot of rhetoric and regurgitated comments, that they couldn't just swap a spare, that goo was the way forward.... blah blah blah and all of it nonsense. I called off the sale as it was a deal breaker for me, and about two minutes later the vRS magically had a spare and all the gubbins to go with it 🙄 They do come up for sale on here from time to time, but there's always some to choose from on well known auction websites 19" - probably best to check on will they fit: https://www.willtheyfit.com to be on the safe side. G

From factory, Skoda started to deliver the Octavia with the newer 1969 software. Someone from the dutch forum posted a photo of his Octavia screen with software 1969.

PCP deposit contribution offers are also on factory orders, ie they still honour it when the car comes 6 months or whatever later. Unless there is something specific about this particular offer, excluding factory offers, which I doubt.

I recall when there were a lot of VERY silly townie boys with VRS's on here...

Thanks. I was Googling after asking the question. You beat me to it. I remember seeing above 200 rpm when I looked yesterday, and there was not a significant difference with the booster fitted. The big difference was that the booster was fitted to the lead, before I tightened up the loose terminal. I am hoping that I get some positive feedback on Monday that the car starts fine, as after tightening the terminal, it started on the button.

On a Google search, I found an American website (VW TDI Discussion) that says minimum cranking speed must be greater than 200 RPM within 1 second of starter engagement.

The first statement is incorrect because your battery in the second statement showing 12.7v on the bench would show only 12.36v on the vehicle with the bonnet open and the drain from all the awake canbus controllers, disconnecting the battery terminal would see it jump to 12.7v or higher. On that generation of TDi they had some stupid system that would not allow a cold engine to start below a certain cranking rpm and it wasn't voltage dependant, people were sometimes having to change starter motors rather than batteries or the better solution of having the function mapped out. I agree that it starting with a jump pack means a new battery will probably have the vehicle starting but the underlying issue may be starter motor, cleaning all the starter and earth connections is a wise move. The crazy thing being my TDIs of that generation without the dumb programming would start on one half of a lazy turn from a nearly dead battery.

For me, home charging is a massive benefit of EVs. The prospect of not having to use public charging points would be a big incentive for me. Concerns over EV longevity is a real concern for people like me, who keep their cars for a relatively long time. Several times I've read of people gushing praise over their new car, only to replace it a couple of years later. I realise there are a variety of reasons for changing a car, but if I have a decent car, I hang onto it, so I find it odd for people to gush praise over a car they only plan to keep 2-3 years. The prospect of only having 80% of the range it used to have after a few years ownership does not appeal to me.

Yes, 1.4TSI 8sp. Without wishing to offend DSG owners, and having had the 7cog DSG in my previous Golf, I find the 8sp TC just a nicer box to live with. It seems smoother and more responsive, and in hilly country it comes into its own by better knowing which gear to be in. Just my view. RS has the DSG of course, as did the now discontinued (from '24) Limited Edition (AFAIK). All other Octavia variants have the 8sp, all petrol, no electric or phev.

@wyx087I'm just establishing the facts about the events to get the context right so that readers can see the complete picture correctly with the right supporting info, that's fair enough? With regard to those Ethiopia articles, reading them both, they are claiming to be banning the import of non EV vehicles, but the same articles also suggest that it is not yet a done deal, charging infrastructure does not yet support large scale EV usage, and they hint at the real reason for considering such a ban is less to do with air quality, although they do mention it, but is more to the economics of the country struggling to pay for the liquid fuel which has to be imported. I was intrigued to dig further and uncovered some startling facts. Looking at the countries' vehicle stock they are, in large part, old, clapped out and poorly maintained like many of the countries in that part of the world. Looking at other sites throws a different light on the real problems of the country, this one for example paints a very interesting picture List of countries and territories by motor vehicles per capita - Wikipedia. Countries by population is also interesting List of countries by population (United Nations) - Wikipedia as is countries by physical size List of countries by area - Simple English Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The average age of vehicles in Ethiopia is 20 years and almost all are imported as used cars, I guess from more developed countries' scrappage schemes Used Vehicles Survival Rates and Their Impacts on Urban Air Quality of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia (ijert.org) with new vehicles being largely restricted to government and international organisations. Taking just 3 countries as examples, USA, UK and Ethiopia you can see the scale of the problems:- Vehicles per 1,000 people. (195 countries) USA has 908, UK has 600 and Ethiopia has 10 and the ranks USA - 7th, UK - 36th and Ethiopia - 189th. Land size (197 countries) USA - 4th, UK - 78th and Ethiopia - 26th. Size of population rankings (197 countries) USA - 3rd, UK - 21st and Ethiopia - 11th. Given the above results, the public would appear to only have access to other countries scrapped vehicles so are second hand and the most polluting so if they go ahead and ban ICE vehicles being imported, they will still only have access to scrapped EVs from other countries the data would suggest. I'm beginning to wonder if there is any validity to those 2 links you found, this link suggests Ethiopia: Freedom in the World 2022 Country Report | Freedom House that they may not be quite what they seem, it is an oppressive country and may be just posturing for the world stage? Any thoughts

@Tintowellfan if you're not driving it much and it's parked locked up for weeks on end use the "smart" charge as a charger or even maintainer. In the Owner's Manual (unless it's one of those horrid digital only type which tell you even less) it might say disconnect the battery if you're not using the car for x-number of weeks but a maintainer left on would do similar. My neighbour's second Ren-No! (2021) car was parked (outside) for 6-weeks he told me when I pointed out his brake discs were getting very rusty and they needed using to try to clear them up. I wasn't surprised that they engine started (though the starting sounded a lot better that I was expecting) and I certainly wasn't surprised at the lights being bright - but 24 hours after the failed attempt to clear the rust by driving, repeatedly round the crescent, to save petrol, and braking, I was surprised at the battery voltage reading at the battery terminal posts wasn't anywhere near as low as I'd expected (forget what now). But after 47 (four, seven) hours of the 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer doing it's stuff (with the battery still on the car outside in cold weather) the charger wouldn't show full, confirmed by use of a multimeter reading the next day. Had I been allowed to remove the battery from the car and in my home use my 20-year old 1.8 amp charger maintainer I might have done better but possibly not or not a lot. The 6-week slow drain from a 2021 vehicle, plus whatever use/abuse/neglect/ and no use of a charger or maintainer from the previous 2.5 years, had injured the battery enough that it couldn't full recover. 😄 I think I'm the only strange one you've meet on this thread so far, there are a very few others I consider even stranger than me, but I think on this thread it's just been a matter of misunderstanding(s) one and both ways. Some like or expect quick answers from very little given information, some like to give very quick answers based only on the information given which may sometime be good and correct, some like to see quick question and quick answers too. You can guess which way I go. 😄 Whenever I try to give a quick answer it all goes wrong plus assumptions have to be made if questions are not asked or answered and we all know what assume does(?). I feel more and sometimes better information and answers can be given and not only to the one question asked, by sometimes expanding on the one question asked. What I thought of as a trickle charger 45 years ago isn't necessarily what people think of as a trickle charger now, and even might not be the same as you thought of 45 years ago, whereas they all seem to know "smart" devices now. Despite none of those devices being smart - don't get me going on "smart"-"phones" . . .

I put two vredestien winters extreme tyres on the front of my Karoq, 215/50×18 I think, the standard size anyway, in December. We have not had much snow but the few days we had the carvwas nearly undrivable with Bridgestones about 5 mm summers on the back. This is the first time I have ever had problems like it, plenty grip from the front and the back going allover the place. Therfore the Bridgestones got jettisoned and another ywo vredestien fitted to the rear at a cost of another over £300. This transformed it in the snow next day or two of snow we had. I wouldn't mix different types of tyres now. I have another set of 18" wheels that I was running on my previous yeti. The wheels are vw sirocco wheels with 235/50x18 summers, two different makes but all summers and they were much better than the Bridgestones all round for comfort, and never had a problem with grip in snow with the yeti, but then it was 4wd whereas my karoq is front.

Yes it will come out, I've had mine out. Remove the upper glovebox (2 screws and a good tug) and you will see 3 torx screws behind, remove them and carefully pry up with a screwdriver from below around the mounts you took the screws out from while using a gentle edged prybar around the edges from above, I did find a better description online but didn't bookmark it. Remove neg battery lead first before removing airbag plug, I took mine out to thread a gps antenna up under the dash in the middle beside it for an android headunit.

A vote from me for Michelin CrossClimates - fitted to my Karoq and previously on a Freelander and Subaru Forester. Good all around all-season tyre

Here’s my Elegance. I paid £250 for it nearly three years ago. It’s been ideal for the job I’ve been doing in some dodgy locations where I feel confident it will still be there when I get back!! It’s kept me reasonably busy with jobs, especially at the beginning but never let me down yet.

Well changing the oil and oil filter every 10000 km does pay out !! And 2 minutes later hit the big 400000 km !!

Apples and oranges, @lol-lol. I'm worried about range reduction, you're talking about power losses. Power losses are real, as is MPG loss, but not to the same degree as with EVs. Having sold my old 2006 Mondeo at 14 years old, the MPG was not noticeably different to when it was younger. My 2010 Fiesta diesel has a long-term MPG of just under 60MPG. That's not bad for a 14 year-old car. I wonder what the range loss on an EV would be after 14 years?

I edited my mistake. 82 kW is the battery size, not the power the motor develops 210kW.281.6 bhp. 82 kW battery, 77 kW usable. With the Corsa that are saying the Smaller Battery car still has 136 PS but 81kW is 110 ps. The 51 kW bigger battery supposed has has 48 kW usable or so. the old and still used in the cheaper cars 50kW was and is 45 kW usable.

It's a strange One because in the Blurb they quote the power output of the bigger Corsa and the mileage of the lower powered one https://www.vauxhall.co.uk/cars/new-corsa/yes-edition.html "The new Corsa YES Edition Electric offers a fun driving experience. Its fully electric 136PS powertrain develops 260 Nm of torque, meaning its fast off the line whilst having no gears to shift, and best of all, driving with zero emissions. The next-gen battery allows you to drive up to 221 miles* on a single charge, and when needed can be fast-charged from 20% to 80% in just 30 minutes* using a DC charger at your local Tesco with free charging credit provided^, making Corsa YES Edition your perfect partner for all trips; both long or short." Existing car stats for the new corsa range

Here Off here https://cartechnology.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=89047

So... not to be defeated, I've decided to keep the fight going and got the local engineer in! Damage / rot was worse than first thought: Saying that he's done an excellent job of welding-in new steel (no donor parts, all from scratch) and getting it protected: So now I just need to get the filler primer out (you can see the gap between the door and arch) and get it painted up: Now to see if I can get The Beast through its MoT 😅

Massive horsepower is nice in either EVs or ICE cars if you want it and it does not badly affect your insurance. In the motorcycle world there has been insurance tariffs, particularly in Germany ie one of few countries that one can apply hundreds or a thousand or two horsepower through the accelerator and waft yourself up to 200, 300, 350 kph. As EVs are digital, where as nearly all ICE vehicles are analogue, and I I can only think of the Bugatti Veyron that actually displays the horsepower being deployed, whereas my Zoe and most EVs do this as a matter of routine, and my Zoe will oft display 111 kWs, which is 151 hp, even though the car is rated at 135 hp but it is a bit immaterial, think I would rather display the Nm of torque and the revs the single geared traction motor is revving to. I would not expect the power to diminish in the way and ICE car does ie leaking piston rings, coking up even when the battery loses a few percent in its capacity due to chemical degradation. EVs sometimes only give peak power for a few of seconds, 5s in the case of the Mach e GT and 2.5 second in the Taycan I gather. For Rolling Road tuning, working with race teams and even professional with marine engines producing tens of thousands of horsepower we are interesting in the area under the curve when one does a power versus time or revs and with road vehicles the in optimum gear power from gear change to gear change as this gives the maximum acceleration, with some influence with inertia of parts of course. It is all about P= T 2 π n under the curve at any millisecond to optimise acceleration. Lord Nyland experience with the on paper powerful Mustang-e GT with its fleeting power. Grabs the headline but not so impressive to live with.

Great stuff! Thanks for posting the answer.

Now that it’s finally stopped raining, I’ve been able to sort this problem out. Given that the pull handle was intact. i.e. the screw hole was not torn, I decided it must have not been attached properly by the single torx screw that held the large trim panel in place. Then I membered I had removed this trip panel some time ago to access the third brake light. When I replaced the trim panel, although the pull handle appeared to be in place properly, it must have moved slightly as the dozen very stiff clips were cajoled – forced – back into place. That meant when the trim screw went back in, it did not go through the pull handle. As the handle is a very tight fit, it stayed put for months before pulling out. Intact. So I just managed to fiddle it back into place through the hole next to the trim screw recess and put the trim screw back in, capturing the handle. Sorted. Fortunately I did not have to remove the trim panel to do that – that is a job I would advise people to avoid of possible. Two photos attached. One showing the underside of the trim panel when I removed it months ago – in the centre you can see the recess for the screw sticking up, and next to it, the hole that the grab handle goes though (handle is in place, but on the other side to the panel). And a photo of the handle back in place today, up close to the trim hole. Thanks for the help. Hope this helps someone else.

Of our 3 cars, two hybrids and one pure EV, it is the ones with ICE that worry me fare more both in terms of something expensive going wrong and longevity. I worked on a rolling road for a good while and ICE owners usually have no idea how much horsepower how much hp they have dropped after tens of thousands of miles. That may not affect the range massively but certainly the acceleration and often oil consumption. Loses of 10% to 25% were not unusual and trying to explain that 130 hp quoted at the engine with power train losses and losses due to mileage on the engine that they would be lucky to see 100 hp at the rear wheels. If we could up that by 10 or 20% power and toque they should focus on the increase not the disappointing net figure. My Zoe is has air cooling to the battery pack and I can hear the fan kick in if the ambient is up around 30 C plus and I have given the car a bit of a flooring just before but the combination of this ai cooling and not allowing the charging to go above 125A ie 46 kWh, and mostly using the 3.6 kW charger at home, judging by reports by some of the 300,000 other Zoe owners the battery will have only a few percent loss over many year. Zoe has been around for over a decade and there are plenty of high mileage examples. My cars with ICE as well as the hybrid system worry me much more, especially if I have outside manufacturer's warranty.

"Loctite 263 Primerless, Oil Tolerant High Strength Red Threadlocker is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners"

Thank you, I've managed to order one through one of the parts finder sites. I appreciate your input though! I'm moving uncharacteristically swiftly on trying to get this fixed 😅

<off-topic, slightly> A by-product of turning this on seems to be that Safari on macOS now displays the Briskoda logo when you have it as a favourite - Safari on iOS / iPadOS has always done it (albeit with a white background, not a black one), which suggests something I've long suspected - Safari on macOS looks for a different favicon than on iOS / iPadOS or at least does something odd / different when looking. macOS: iOS / iPadOS: Anyway, if for no other reason that it fixed the favicon on macOS, thanks @Dean!

Finally I had a chance to talk to local mechanic about changing the shocks to B6. Well, he said there should not be any issues with finance or insurance. Also, he changed a few shocks to a B6, and says it is a personal opinion but most owners found the ride much firmer and not what they hoped it would be. Basically he said, personally he wouldn't do that change. I still have an option to go for a smaller wheels though. Not decided yet, other things are coming into play - spring, biking season and crazy ideas if I should take anything for a test ride etc etc and what if I like it?! lol!

4 Cars:- One runs just summers all year round. One runs summers and all season in the winter. Two run just all season all year. I did run one with summers and winters for 5 years. Down South in North Dorset the all seasons are more than up to the job in the winter. Thanks. AG Falco

For those that want a bit more - this is just from what ive seen, read and my opinion (also another car to add to to the list is the arteon which many owners on the facebook group are saying has this issue) The master cylinder is the exact same as one for a manual car, the only difference is the clutch fluid output for the reservoir is heat crimped shut - not an issue, it was even how it was done on my 1999 VW Polo. The proximity of the exhaust to the crimped connection is causing it to melt and open up and drop all the brake fluid. The fix is a heat reflecting mat between the exhaust and the reservoir. In terms of failure, if the brake fluid warning comes on, stop immediately and check. You hopefully and shouldn't loose full brake control as the system still has fluid and will allow you to stop normally. How something like this made it through quality control and their testing I have no idea!

We press cancel and it comes out... with a reboot Final stage... Then done. It allows you to revert map updates and revert software updates. Has it's uses.

this makes me sad

A crash of Fabias...

I have a vrs and have done for over 12 years, when I bought it everyone took the **** out of me saying I was buying an old man’s car…. Because only old men drove Skodas now it seems in recent years they have become clapped out bangers for chavs as they’re relatively cheap to make them quick. I still own my fabia completely standard other than a remap and it’s in outstanding condition . Don’t see many decent ones about tbh