Leaderboard

Treated the Octy today. Definitely wasn't a five minute job... ✅Rinsed. ✅Auto Smart Snowfoamed. ✅Rinsed. ✅Auto Glym Magma Decontamination. ✅Rinsed. ✅Auto Glym Shampoo Washed. ✅Rinsed. ✅Dried. ✅Meguiars ultimate Compound Polished. ✅ Auto Glym EGP Paint Sealant Treatment. ✅Auto Glym Ceramic Waxed. ✅Supagard Trim and tyre dressing ✅Rain-ex on Glass. The interior was done on Saturday.

A couple from earlier @ Rufford Park:

which is very nice and of course will cause no arguments when you get home and someone else is parked in " your spot" even though you have no legal right to automatically park on the road outside your own home but its still "your spot" ;o)

Lovely skies this evening:

Personally I think they stay on but for your sake would be happy to be proved wrong

If Skoda brought out an EV estate with decent range they could probably just take my money. Even without 800V. Something like the ID7 tourer but perhaps a class down - more Octavia-sized than Superb-sized - would be perfect for me. I know Skoda have said they will have some sort of "Combi" EV "by 2026" but given Skoda have a good reputation for estates, and the EV estate market isn't exactly flooded, I'm hoping they're aiming at a sooner timescale than that.

Here's a couple of threads that are probably worth a read;

Despite this morning's rain it was a glorious Spring afternoon 😎

Strongly recommend.

I have a Mk111 with DSG registered late 2015. It has done over 170,000 miles with no real issues. I replaced one glow plug recently and the (rear I think) shock absorbers were replaced in 2018. I also had the front n/s wheel bearing replaced last year. Of course the cam belt, (inc the water pump) and DSG have been serviced early at every assigned interval and I have carried out all the other services (early of course!). Best car I have ever owned.

Mine had a failure for inoperative rear fog lights which was odd as they've never been used. Turned out he didn't know how to switch them on.

Please no spam only post new coding that is not here... if you like the manual give me a like thx OCTAVIA IV CODING tested working coding obdeleven To verify 3 steps unlock SFD, 1 is registration add name ... which was normal, then parking brake must be on, hood open, ignition on... SFD unlock each module in aplication , not only 1 , u need to unlock all... Lane Assist to "Last setting" (asistent jazdného pruhu na "posledné nastavenie" ) EN- driver assistance (module A5) > long coding > Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 > change to "last setting" SK- asistencia vodiča (modul A5) > dlhé kódovanie > Konfigurácia upozornenia na vybočenie z jazdného pruhu KI15 > zmena na "posledné nastavenie" VRS CLUSTER THEME: Control unit 17 - Adaptations - view activation (Zobraziť aktiváciu) - all which are OFF should be ON (Set all views to active) Speed warning: Control unit 17 -long coding-speed warning take off or on G-meter: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set G-Meter -> active Charging pressure ( turbo boost show) (zobrazenie turba): Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set charging pressure to active (bost pressure) Engine torque and Engine power: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- engine power and torque set active Oil temperature Control unit 17 -long coding-oil temperature display-set active, this function factory set on.. Automat transmission temperature , oil temperature and coolant (water) temperature: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- Transmission temperature set active Disable seat belt warning: Control unit 17 -long coding- seat belt warning verison1, version 2 or off- set off to turn off warning Show Volume to be Replenished (zobraziť kolko l dotankovať): Control unit 17 -long coding: volume to be replenished set active or on Laptimer: Control unit 17 -long coding- lapcounter set to active or on, other activation: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set lapcounter-active Control unit 17 - adaption- personalization- display_laptimer to active Staging, Needle Sweep, indicator celebration: Control unit 17 -long coding-Staging set yes Rear DRL Lights (rear daytime running lights) (zadné svetlá ako denné) 1.Module 09 - Electronic control unit 2.Adaptation 3.Daytime running light 4.Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht: - (Change value to On) CONFIRMED WORKING ADD Enable / Disable daytime running light in menu radio: DRL In lighting menu (Attivazione e disattivazione delle diurne da menù) - Select control unit 09 - Select Adaptation - Select Daytime running lights ( Per gli italiani, Luci Diurne) - Select Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich, Set to Active Lock when car engine runs: Control Unit 09 Adaptation ZV allgemein funk bei klemme15- set active Menu of control door locking view : Menuesteuerung Tuerentriegelung: or in English Menu control door release: -Select Multimedia 5F ecu -Adaption - Vehicle menu operation menu_display_central_locking > not activated ( original is activated and where is off take on)menu_display_central_locking_over_threshold_high > not activated (set activated)

@VenomVrs Hi, send me an email and I will send you the update for your unit.

I was faced with a strange situation. The subject of the speaker's positive and negative pole. In the photo 1 is the electrical diagram, in the photo is the actual situation. Photo 1 Photo2 it looks like there is a reverse connection from the factory. Unless the pole marking on the speaker is wrong. (it isn't i tested it) I can't figure out what's going on.

Settings > System information

I'd be happy to wrap it all up nicely if you arrange a courier; i can give you weight and dimensions etc if that's a route you want to go down Alternatively i'm a bit closer to you this weekend (Cotswolds; Chipping Norton) and could take it with me if you were prepared to travel that far to collect

Good luck with that. The usual complaint is that Android Auto constantly disconnects, but some people have trouble with Carplay too. First thing is to make sure the infotainment system software has updated to 0330. That may or may not help, but there's no point in trying any other fixes until that is done. Mind you, mine has been saying 'Software update in progress' for an entire week now. Speaking as one who developed and published successful software for 20 years, I can say the software on these systems is disgraceful, from small things such as a failure to indicate exactly what is happening and buttons that do nothing when you press them, to big ones such as stuck updates.

i had this idea just the other day as i messed around with paint to get rid of the badges at the back and put an old style round black one in their place just like this, would be good if you had a full image of the car say on an angle or something to fully show how it would look, looks good to me

I've always used good quality Dot 5.1

It will change automatically.

If the DSG changes gear perfectly then that is what you want. Only have the place service it if they know their stuff, otherwise get the cost of that off the purchase and have it done by a place that does. Does the 2016 TDI have SCR (AdBlue)? if not then maybe for the better.

Just pay the bit extra for the lower viscosity Dot 4 ESP. It is there for cars with ESP, and for lower temperature places, so that is hardly relevant here.

J.R. - thank you SO much!! Peace of mind, I can sleep soundly again! Very much appreciated!

Has it been mapped and done it have a stock inlet system (inc. air filter)? Sounds like it's been tinkered with. As for the jolt, maybe it's the dogbone mount that needs a new bushing. Official name is pendulum mount I think. It links the bottom of the gearbox to the chassis to transfer the torque to the car rather than rotating the engine and gearbox on the mounts. Or it could be engine mounts. None of these things last forever.

I have noticed them on when I next got in the car but they may have been off in the interim period, thinking about it in my usual optimist manner, they are very dim lights, if I could see they were on when in the car it must have been dark or dusk and logic says under those conditions I would have seen their illumination when approaching the car. I will do a test for you which hopefully will allow you to relax!

Tyres are Good Year F1s. Tyre tread at 23,000 miles, according to the garage at service are right front 4.3mm, and rears 5.3mm and 5.8mm. I've excluded left front as that is a new tyre following a puncture.

I have changed one side and never had a leak on the other side. The pressure in the system does not change just because it is now "more" contained. There is nothing to amplify the pressure. The second leak would have been bad luck.

After recently getting out of a mk4 1.0tsi 110 into a 1.5tsi I knew that it would affect my consumption. On a drive from Stoke to Cheshire Oaks yesterday (50ish miles, M6, M56) I saw 53mpg average going there and on the way back (which was a little more spirited) was 49mpg, so really happy with that. I know my previous 1.0tsi 110 would've been around 50-56mpg.

There's something about rear view camera, Bluetooth and Smartlink fixes.

that was my initial thought as well but then I thought... "ah maybe the OP doesn't want to have to run any sort of wiring down the length of the car"

Diesel engine doesn't generate hot water very quickly, this one provides more immediate warmth. Particularly useful here in AU where we could not option the heated windscreen. I also had a time when my DSG thermostat stuck open and the PTC was able to supplement the heat output. This was during a winter holiday in Tasmania, the coldest part of our country. No settings to adjust, but the device itself controls the output using presumably PWM as there are a bunch of large MOSFETs in the controller. The vehicle also regulates the output with regard to other electrical consumers, e.g. if electrical output is in demand the PTC element is down-regulated in favor of other consumers. It is disabled when the water temperature reaches 75degC. It also self-regulates, as is natural with PTC elements however the 'regulating' temperature of these elements is not published as far as I know. Easier wiring. The non-CAN one needs 2 relays installed and connections from the HVAC controller to the relay carrier, along with heavy wiring back from the relay carrier to the element (there are three wires, ground, low and high power). The CAN one only needs one wire run from the engine bay, a heavy power supply. The GND is already inside. The CAN is available at the HVAC controller. It's much easier to install. I suppose if one wanted a more DIY install, the non-CAN item would be easier as you just need to get switched 80A power to it somehow (I'd guess solid state relay would be simplest). That's entirely up to you. If you're happy with your heater, then you don't need it. If you curse at the amount of time it takes to defrost your windscreen then it might be worth it to you.

All those plastic parts are unique to the Superb. All black interior sounds horrible though, oppressively dark

Brake lights are already plenty bright enough. This would blind drivers behind you, especially at night. You would also lose the fog lights for their normal function.

Bought a Superb from them recently, I refused them the press from selling the car to me, wasn't liked by the sales person. Also had the manager come to see me as I was trying to get the sales person to drive the car out the show room so I could leave, it was pressed on me that I give them 10's in the survey marketings for the sale and that 8's mean nothing. As you can imagine I wasn't impressed from that conversation and if it wasn't the fact I couldn't leave yet I would have told him that this was very rather rude of him and that I was unhappy considering the lack of money offered for my trade in. They were never going to get above 7 from me and that wasn't going to be lover the board either.

I had a 2016 150 diesel manual until a couple of months ago. Traded it in with 150k on the clock. Needed clutch and rear shocks doing. Only failure I'd had was the water pump at 4yrs and 112k. Rest just routine servicing etc.

Those long strip lights front and back seem to be commonplace now on most EVs

Get a fault code read done. Common failure is the pump reporting back as failed but a new pump often does not work because the ECU is water damaged. Getting a Gen 4 ECU off is often a sketch as the lower M4 screw rots in the case and easily snaps off flush. Getting the broken piece out is very tricky as there is no inline access so I get a specialist to come out and remove it. We always fit a new pump anyway and replace the filter (which VAG refuse to admit is there). The important point is to throughly blow the system out with brake cleaner and compressed air as it gets full of disgusting goo.

this appears to be a generic Skoda thing. The cupholders in my Superb are too small for the mugs we use in my GFs Ioniq (& previously in my Ceed)

Quite possibly the relay inside the BCM. There's a guide to replacement in the Fabia Guides section. Soldering involved. Yours will be the BCM with part number suffix F, the second relay type mentioned in the guide.

Dear @r0bb10 and @Lennart, I want to thank you for sharing your update stories ! Thanks to you I finally took the plunge and did the update tonight. I have a Kamiq MY21 that came with 0270. Tonight I flashed 0308 and then 0330. Even though I thought I was ready I was surprised by 4 things: You must extract the files at the root of an exFat formatted USB drive (I used a fast USB 3.0 SSD) (You should have /Data and /Meta) It takes a few seconds for the USB Media option to appear when you enter the engineering menu and start the update Once the update is complete you have to scroll down and confirm "resume" to reboot in normal mode (it was a bit confusing at first) With ODBEleven you need a Pro account to be able to run the SVM (Confirmation of installation change), I thought I could do it with the "Free" level just having purchased the HW (still cheaper than to have the garage do the update though...) Everything works as I had the 00071C00 SWAP already installed and active. I followed the instructions given in the TPI that matched my VIN from ErWIN (2063258/16), except I didn't use a battery charger like recommended. I left the engine running during the whole procedure. I hope it will solve some of the issues I had sometime : - GPS location was sometimes wrong for a few days... didn't bother me too much as I use Android Auto but still. (sometime it would be thousands of km away from my location !) - Reverse camera didn't always turn-on when putting the reverse gear (only happened rarely but always when I was in a hurry) - My map had stopped updating in July 2021 even though I still had the Online services active till August 2023 (I re-enabled them tonight with the free month, hoping to get a map update soon). I need to understand now why it looks like I still don't have Wireless Android Auto but otherwise I'm happy. Thank you again. PS: Here is a recording of the 0308 to 0330 update (I only started filming after starting the update but you can at least see the confirmation screen at the end with the "resume" option)

Can’t recall whether I ever posted an update. In case not, after 4 months of emails and telephone calls, the dealer I bought the car from has paid me for what it cost to replace all 4 tyres and a wheel alignment - around £1100. The general manager at the dealer told me the cost was being shared with Skoda UK. I have to say that I am quite surprised and it was definitely more difficult for them that they had to give me cash rather than fit new tyres through their network. But I had to get them done as the rears were an MOT failure and after 4 more months they would have blown out. One thing that helped I think is that I posted on the FB group Skoda EV Lounge which is run by Skoda. On there you will see that a lot of Scandinavian customers have been compensated. The more customers who complain the more likely Skoda will correct the problem at source. If not the dealers need to check alignment as part of their PDI. Although the PDI that my dealer did was a joke. Good luck to all those with the problem. Not all Enyaqs have the problem. Nothing to do with Bridgestones btw. Message me if anyone wants my Skoda case number.

I have done 370 000 km, no engine issues, only had changed flywheel twice. But that`s VAG consumable part.

I have a March ‘16 280 L&K with 46k and it’s been very reliable. The only issues have been a leaking water pump (an expensive “standard” EA888 engine family issue), a leaking airco condenser and a failed wheel speed sensor. TBH, I don’t think there’s a greater proportion of early vehicle owners complaining any more about reliability than later vehicle owners.

I take the pragmatic view. If you listened to every single warning/issue out there about anything you would never get out of bed in the morning (although I have no doubt there are some sort of warnings about staying in bed lol) In the OPs case a 2023 car will still have some manufacturers warranty left and as suggested above just do the relevant maintenance otherwise just drive & enjoy

Car ordered for delivery in June. SKODA SUPERB ESTATE SEL 1.5 TSI mild hybrid ICE TEA YELLOW METALLIC SUITE COGNAC PANORAMIC SUNROOF ELECTRIC TOW BAR WITH ADAPTOR DYNAMIC CHASSIS CONTROL PLUS VARIABLE BOOT FLOOR WINTER PACKAGE 18" steel space saving spare wheel

Actually Type Approved from then, so new models. But now mandatory on any produced regardless of being type approved before 2022.

1940 is the factory equivalent to the 1941 update.

Agree good independent survives on reputation. Kendal worth a look to. Thanks

Interesting read especially as having recently brought a fabia and live just north of heysham, this was going to be my Skoda garage, may now look towards cars lie or independent, have you found a better garage?

What do you think guys?