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The video the OP posted clearly shows the front wheels slipping and no engagement of the rears...

This evening...........

When you hold the handle it does not pull out of your hand and drop when the pump stops because the tank is full. It just becomes ineffective. You do not stop the tripper latch working if something else hold the handle up. Positioned in the right place so as not to interfere with the tripping mechanism the pump always switches off when full. You should not impede the tripping mechanism.

I had a painter in with a car in this style. Said that the car was not, registered, mot'd, taxed or insured. As long as you don't touch the system no one bothers you. Typically British, follow the rules and you get clobbered with the slightest infraction. Don't follow them at all and it's too much bother to catch you.

Hi As I saw nobody had this issue, I did not came back with the fix. There are two cooling fin modules at the back of the headlight, and the one at the side (exactly in line with the discoloured one) have to be removed where you will find the led chip. Mine had the paint on the led chip peeled off. You need to replace that module and the cost is not too high, under 100 euros compared to a new headlight price. Unfortunately I paid a lot more because went to dealer and paid for them to fix it. The operation in fact is not that simple as I thought because the bumper needs to be removed in order to remove the headlight unit all this because you don't have access to the module unless you remove the headlight. If I am not wrong the part number is 1420000690.

The last time I saw an issue like this, the underlying problem was a worn out lower ball joint at the affected side.

Not wrong and you dont need a degree in Thermodynamics to realise, anyone who has owned petrol and diesel vehicles used for short urban journeys will know simply by how much they save at the fuel pumps. "even more de minimus on a diesel engine where there is no enrichment as soon as the compression ignition cycle is self sustaining," Are you going to say that is wrong on so many levels? A simple yes or no will suffice, save another demonstration of your extensive knowledge for someone that might be impressed by it. To explain for others a petrol engine runs an enriched mixture (choke = low MPG) until it reaches operating temperature, a diesel engine runs an enriched mixture only for starting on glowplugs, once it has started no further enrichment after a maximum of a couple of seconds. Modern petrol engine achieve impressive economy on long journeys, rivalling and even beating diesel but will never hold a candle to a diesel on short journeys, unfortunately for anything EU5 and onwards short journeys are a catastrophy for the DPF so petrol is better even though it will cost more on fuel.

Our older slightly less powerful 103kw but manual version of the 1.4tsi managed a driving holiday to from Adelaide to Tasmania with 4 adults and two had full international travelling luggage that really challenged the legendary luggage capacity of the wagon (at last I can say wagon here instead of estate ). Every stop at many wineries increased the load further for some reason and each day's repacking was like a harder game of Tetris. Tassie is very hilly in parts and sure you noticed the load, but I was really impressed at how well the vehicle coped with the load and gradients because the full torque is available at such low revs. While the engine is very smooth and happy to rev out you really do not have to and to be honest with just 103kw power (in our case) that is not where it does its best work. Our friends were so impressed with the performance of the car they went home to Scotland and sold their Porsche 911.....and bought a Golf R 😄. I don't think you will go far wrong with either car but if you can afford the initial purchase price and the higher fuel costs then go the RS route. It will be the better driving car for sure. With that much occasional load are you sure you would not be better off with a Superb? One other thing to be aware of is ground clearance on the RS is about 129mm and 1.4tsi about 147mm, not a lot but would be noticeable on our driveway out to the road and on some of the Aussie dirt roads we occasionally travel on.

Mine had done 79K miles and never been serviced, loads of schmoo on filter but no more than some of you who do frequent low mileage Haldex services. I have done another 53K miles and its still functioning correctly, I have been saying for ages that I must do it again but have so much other more important stuff going on like a roof above my head. It will be interesting to see how the filter looks this time. Re the OP, it sounds like the selling dealer has no idea other than competence in BS101 and that they and ultimately the OP have been taken for a ride by the transmission specialist who has removed a perfectly functioning differential needing at worst a service and a new Haldex pump and replaced it with one from a breakers yard that still does not engage the 4WD.

Squeezed a bit more stuff before work: Figuratively and literally. Got a lot of the stuff to be dumped into my work horse to be dumped later before lunch. I supposedly have a more practical car for these purposes ironically enough! I've left the struts for now. If anyone wants a possibly knackered set (they're rusty as hell), drop me a line, otherwise I'll set a bit of time to sort out their disposal (some drilling involved). Moving on, went to sort out the top rear strut bolts: Tightened to 50Nm, then marked up with a Sharpie to 45 degrees. Access is a little bit awkward: Didn't want to use extensions, but without them, there isn't enough clearance in the wheel arch to get the bolt tightened, and anything smaller was proving too much for my puny arms. Smaller wrenches would risk rounding (brute force can get clumsy, in my experience anyway) just as much as all these extensions if they're not on straight. Kept a hand firmly pushing against the extensions to the bolt, and gradually did it a few degrees at a time: So got the paint pen to mark it formally: Repeated for the other side: So with that, dry fitted the wheel liners: I think I'll need to get some washers to add to the bolts attaching the wheel arch just to give it some more spread, but it's getting there. Went to the front, and started to lift the lower arms with the jack: This then compresses the strut and eventually lets the anti roll bar bolt through: Slathered some copper grease and started the nut on it. Didn't take long before the bolt to spin with the nut. So went and raised the other side to attach that bolt: Once done, the raised anti roll bar had a holding effect on the other side, so just went with the impact wrench to buzz the nut in: Tried my best to not give it too many ugga duggas, regularly checking with a torque wrench to see if it clicked at 80Nm. Jacked up the other side to do the same process: I imagine I've probably overtightened them, but the torque wrench was still tightening them slightly when clicking, so I think it's not insanely so. Not too bothered, new shiny anti roll bar links are eventually needed (if not an entire replacement roll bar, it's looking as manky as the rear one). That's the big bits for the front suspension done. I'm waiting for some replacement nyloc nuts for the level sensor as they're a bit grotty, but otherwise, once those are done, that's the front suspension complete! Just need to clean up the Bilstein Damptronic wiring... Maintenance: £2217.41 Upgrades: £1322.97 Miscellaneous: £684.25

Thanks people, much appreciated for the replies. Going to take it to a trusted mechanic to check all steering and suspension parts, then possibly to my local ATS for tracking and tyres....

Is it a DQ381 7 speed wet clutch DSG with a Service Schedule of 80,000 miles? Sensible to have the DSG serviced before that miles, but those doing it need to know what they are doing, do they? ? Has the VAQ front diff been serviced at 3 years / 30,000 miles? so Twice now. Have the spark plugs been replaced, and the Air Filter? Has the brake fluid been changed? Actually has the Servicing History so far been to the Manufacturers Guidelines, recommendations, specification or Schedule?

Like you, I considered the Octavia as my final car in my retirement years as it seemed to offer what I wanted w/o breaking the bank. 19" rims are not standard on the vRS unless you opt for the Plus Pack at extra cost. This also brings the HUD (head up display), DCC adaptive suspension and heated F & R seats. The 19" wheels add to the appearance but spoil the ride as they make the car a shade jiggly whenever pot holes or wavy roads are encountered, making me request a wheel downgrade to the 18" items on mine. I am still a little miffed that the dealer did not offer me a credit for this swap. The DCC is a good option to have as you can adjust the settings for urban cruising or back road blasts. It still won't let you forget the presence of the 19" rims, though. You may also like to consider the pano roof if you go for the vRS as the all black cabin (even the headliner is black) is lightened up by this feature. Good luck with your choice and enjoy your ride.

According to the gknautomotive.com online spring catalogue, the Superb MK3 1.6TDI 120HP estate has the following standard ride height springs. Superb MK3 1.6TDI 120HP Standard ride height front springs L06 5Q0411105GL Sachs 993820 front springs (matches 5Q0411105GL) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105gl?supplier[]=32 Standard ride height rear springs 1JA+0YC 3Q0511115AK Sachs 994977 rear springs (matches 3Q0511115AK) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115ak?supplier[]=32 The Superb MK3 with sports/lowered ride height suspension, eg. Greenline, uses 55mm front buffers and 112mm rear buffers...so if changing to standard ride height springs you might want to change the buffers to 70mm front buffers and 127mm rear buffers...as shown below. Standard ride height front buffers 70mm 1K0412303B Standard ride height rear buffers 127mm 5Q0511357H Front bellows (all ride heights, ie. lowered/standard/increased ride heights) 5Q0413175C Rear protective pipes (all ride heights, ie. lowered/standard/increased ride heights) 5Q0513425J Sachs 900347 (70mm front buffers 1K0412303B and front bellows 5Q0413175C) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/7890477 Sachs 900358 (127mm rear buffers 5Q0511357H and rear protective pipes 5Q0513425J) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/7912428 If you want to change to standard ride height aftermarket shock absorbers you can use the following OEM part numbers to search for them: Standard ride height front shock absorbers G01 3Q0413031BF 3Q0413031BG 3Q0413031CQ 3Q0413031CR Note: These four OEM part numbers are also used on the sports/lowered ride height front suspension, eg. Greenline...so there is no need to change the front shock absorbers when changing from sports/lowered ride height front springs to standard ride height front springs. Sachs 317330 front shock absorbers (sold to replace 3Q0413031BF, 3Q0413031BG, and many other OEM part numbers) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/13785655?search=SACHS+Shock+absorber+(317+330) Standard ride height rear shock absorbers 1JA 3Q0513049FN 3Q0513049FP Note: These two OEM part numbers are also used on the sports/lowered ride height rear suspension, eg. Greenline...so there is no need to change the rear shock absorbers when changing from sports/lowered ride height rear springs to standard ride height rear springs. Sachs 318202 rear shock absorbers (sold to replace 3Q0513049FN, 3Q0513049FP, and many other OEM part numbers) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/14922297?search=SACHS+Shock+absorber+(318+202)

Quick walk around the Res this evening (think it was a little too late to spot any ducklings sadly)...............

I'm wondering if that epoxy repair is actually hiding a crack in the casing suffered when the fin was broken off.

Just following up on the point @J.R. has made - I agree - the fundamental issue is the differential is not fit for purpose if it is leaking, regardless of the hole, and clearly you still have a non-functioning 4x4 system. Personally, I wouldn't be happy with a second hand differential that has had a 'hole drilled i it' either. I'd therefore be pushing for another replacement differential and for them to fully sort the 4x4 system. They've already had one go at fixing it and have failed so I think it's now a case of rejecting the car or taking some legal advice on what to do next.

Just purchased our third Skoda!!! In last 9 years, so felt compelled to join the club after having used it for occasional advice. My Phoenix Orange Fabia tsi110 colour edition is a big improvement on my past skodas so hopefully we will keep it for a while because I am not convinced that Electric cars are good value for money or convenience.

Hi this is my newly acquired superb, its been a bit of a project needing a few bits done but it feels good to drive despite age.

Because the authorities in the UK have to treat us all like idiots because we have so many? It only takes one idiot to make a Tic Tok video of a pump running not in the tank But what you refer to is a different mechanism than the tripping mechanism on modern pumps. Canada have reintroduced them.

The diff does need servicing. I've just done mine myself, it's fairly easy to do if you're handy with a spanner. As far as the Reversing camera goes I've fitted the exact same one from Ali on my mk3 saloon and my current estate. Doesn't make a difference. I'm not sure if you can buy the centre console part separately (you probably can somewhere for a stupid amount) but unless there's really deep scratches it's nothing some cutting compound and either a mini polisher or some elbow grease can't fix.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT

Neve suggested the RAC price was the best, merely pointing out it is one option which includes fitting at home with coding as required. There are many other places offering similar services which some people may be happy to pay for. (and if you're proactively buying a battery from say the RAC then they are hardly forcing a new one on you are they?) NB the exact same battery from Tanya tha the RAC is selling is £1454 inc delivery https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a11/

I assumed I would occasionally be removing the VarioFlex seats for different reasons. In 6 years of Karoq ownership I have only removed them about twice I think. And they are very heavy! I would never have included them as an option if they were not already in the SE-L spec.

I was going to say something but I figured Stonekeeper was just kidding.

I would say it would be beautifully 'run-in' with a long hot run.

That’s great news. I keep seeing Pearl Black Monte Carlo’s on Auto trader and they look awesome. I think you made a great colour choice. Hopefully mine gets built next week and will be joining the queue at the docks with yours. fingers crossed for a quick delivery.

They will when the new batch of Dacia/Renaults come through and if we let the very cheap Chinese cars come in and not stick them with a whole not of Anti-Dumping Duty in addition to the 10% existing customs duty. The UK and EU government are here to protect EU businesses, not so much EU consumers. BYD seagull should be only around £10k so very cheap to lease, PCP etc. French have recently had a program for about 60 Euros a month for Dacia Spring and the like, massively oversubscribed . Like below, again might be a while before we see RHD version, link to French newspaper which your browser should translate approximately. https://www.frandroid.com/marques/byd/1958408_le-plus-grand-concurrent-de-tesla-reduit-le-prix-de-sa-voiture-electrique-la-plus-abordable-avant-son-arrivee-en-europe

Never charged for more than 15 minutes and that is with an EV that can only charge at less than 50 kWs. Next car will charge at 100, 150 ,200, 250, 350 kW, up to the 60% mark which will be enough to get a hundred miles or more. Not sure where people get the half hour charging from, most people I see at public chargers are been and gone in ten minutes, 15 sometime and rarely more than 20 minutes, no point, get back on the road and drive for another hour or two and get home to that lovely sub 10p per kWh lecky, to a cheap fast (ie 7-22 kw), not rapid charger which there are tens of thousands.

I do know what you are talking about, and it had no relevance to my posting, I will ask you the question one more time in case you missed it: FYI This month zero income, the same as every month since Covid.

I'd suggest taking it to a more reputable tyre place than ATS, somewhere with a proper laser 4 wheel alignment tester and technicians properly trained how to use it. Too far for you but when I lived in Hampshire I would always go to Micheldever Tyres, but now they're part of Protyre I'm not so sure (had a bad experience with Protyre in Westbury).

Just over 55,000 so yeah will ask for oil and filter to be done 👍. Yeah I'll definitely be looking at a warranty too 👍

You have to clean the throttle with spray, it's a easy task.

@Stuart231 Welcome. They were not Tyre Garages were they, were they Tyre & Exhaust Fitting Centres with 'Fitters' or did the MOT tester have a look under the car to see if any work was needed? Best get any work done by a mechanic / Garage before and Checking or Adjustments are paid for. Adjusting worn suspension or steering is no 'simple clever'. Work first if needed. As to ATS Euromaster, First you best check their equipment is actually working. Then the trained staff member is available, then that they can actually make the required adjustment. & you need a new tyre or 2 or 4 most likely.

Some of these things that look like just relays contain circuit boards which make them 'control units' rather than just simple relays. Usually the outer cover can be unclipped to reveal these extra components.

Don't let the cops get you. They're much stricter on speeding nowadays than five years ago.

At a guess, fooked! 🤣

Finally got round to do this on my B16 DCCs and it has a made a difference!

The International Energy Agency has just published its latest report on the EV market and industry. "Electric car sales in 2023 were 3.5 million higher than in 2022, a 35% year-on-year increase. This is more than six times higher than in 2018, just 5 years earlier. ...Electric cars accounted for around 18% of all cars sold in 2023, up from 14% in 2022 and only 2% 5 years earlier, in 2018." There are some warning signs, though; in some markets the vast majority of EVs have been sold to people who can charge at home. I'd guess that at some point that market will be saturated. Also there is a trend towards larger and more expensive EVs. https://www.iea.org/reports/global-ev-outlook-2024?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR3oB9oQZ-bxTbvfNN6nkfWXT3cfA-T2q1i8dNaoqh4VFOvMU8XHXiPgqqo_aem_AWIYg0j0l_YbBjbZBrOzIvAkxh0foZejHEo4wBRaF4ykTE3fOnpquvLcLGp-70AcA-h4UdkHFd41UQqFxnbgvO17

I see VarioFlex seats are no longer standard on the SE-L; additional cost option.

The HALDEX 5 system is a good system as long as the fluid and filter in the transfer box is changed every 20k miles (and not 40k as recommended). Basically a lot of time the HALDEX system fails due to the pump trying to overcome the pressure of the fluid and failing due to a dirty filter. Now what happens is that when this occurs, it *does not* throw a code (ask me how I know - see my posting on this when I owned my 2019 Scout). So...you are left with no engagement on the 4 wheel drive system. It cost about £160 to get it done every 20k. What they don't tell you is *how* to engage the HALDEX 5 box. You have to loose traction on the front wheels for the system to engage. The garage is right when they say it is not a permanent 4x4 system.

Possibly coming from the radio TMC service, which covers only big stuff on big roads. Which of course may be enough for some people. That service is manufacturer agnostic of course.

To my knowledge VAG do not sell seals or bearings for the 4x4 differential, the bearings are standard size but from my research the few people who do rebuild them have to be very careful with the existing seals as they have to resuse them not having found any replacements. It does not sound like a "fully reconditioned unit" but one from a scrapyard that has been jet-washed, try even finding a company that repairs them let alone "fully reconditions" them, I think it is likely yet more BS101. I'm shocked to hear that despite having replaced the combined differential and Haldex that you still do not have 4 wheel drive, if only their mechanical competence matched their BS101. I understand your concerns re the epoxy repair but it seems to be taking your eye off the ball from the much more important issue of the 4x4 still not functioning. Are you still within your rights to reject the vehicle? That might focus their attention, it sounds like it has already cost them a lot of money, maybe they will cut their losses, take it back and unload it onto the next pigeon

It also depends on the station you’re listening to. I get very few issues with all the BBC stations, but if it loses reception it automatically switches over to FM. The only aggravation i have is the lllllloooooooonnnnnnng tiiiiiiiimmmmmmme it takes to bloody boot up! 😂

why not ask the leasing company what service they expect to be carried out ?

@ApertureS actually LIN is yellow, 12V is purple and GND is black

All now sorted. My original cable was 25cm and just too short as previously mentioned. One of the alternatives I have had delivered today was a 30cm lead and this is just the perfect length to reach over to the camera on the passenger side of the mirror.

There are VW Customising Specialists turning out lovey VAG models with difference, as there are for many different manufacturers models. Lots of people do lots of mods to their vehicles, even brand new. In Scotland there are loads of very noisy Audi,s about, & slammed etc. Most annoying are the once making lots of noises, pops and bangs and bouncing off limiters and going no place fast just being heard for ages. Loads of plonkers with old Skoda,s doing exactly the same. Soot covered rear hatches.

Firstly, a/ Take off each door card in turn b/ Carefully remove or roll up out of the way the plastic sheet (remember to put it back in place before replacing door card). c/ Inside all 4 door shells you will see a multi-plug for the harness d/ Unplug the two halves and inspect for any contact corrosion. e/ If they look ok give both halves a good squirt of contact cleaner and re-connect. f/ Finally carefully wrap the connector block in a plastic sheet using ty-wraps, paying special attention to get a good seal around the cable harness, this is where the water gets in. NB: What happens is water / condensation runs down the cable harness and collects in the multi-plug (these are not water proof) and causes corrosion on the contacts. Some owners have even found that on or more connector pins have completely rotted away. (Replacement pins/sockets are commercially available).

X relay switches off various current/power consumers that might be switched on during starter motor operation, to maximise energy availability for the starter.