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Simpler to just steal the busses and then you have less of a transportation issue.

yum yum https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266797257983

... and rationalisation of public charger networks (so you don't need multiple cards/apps), as well as better maintenance of public chargers - see regular posts by @Ootohere of chargers not working or hogged by long-term parkers.

The Kia Niro??? 🤣

Yes, there are fixes for the issues in earlier cars, I've lost count of the number of hardware and software updates mine has had! But as @PoloPaul mentions after the update to SW 1941 all is good. The version prior to that had some issues (repeated reboots of the infotainment system); other than that mine has been fine for quite a while. The challenge is making sure that ALL the possible updates are applied to the particular vehicle you're interested in. Building good rapport with the local dealer Service Dept is useful essential in this regard. I got very close to the point of rejecting mine but it was the rapport with the service dept that helped me through - and I'm very pleased I stuck with it. It's a very practical, comfortable and economic car. I love it. There are others here in the Mk4 forum with recent cars which don't have the issues of earlier builds - other than needing the update to SW1941. Thus I reckon you can be confident the car will be fine subject to the updates being applied.

LED boot upgrades. Those were the only non-led bulbs from factory. Pedal and footrest revamped. Pleased with the materials: soft sticky rubber and stainless steel. All fits like a glove, no tools required.

the factory xenon bulb is powered by a ballast (8K0 941 597 B), controlled by the light control module (8U0 941 329 version A headlights; 4H0 941 329 version B headlights), which is in turn governed by the AFS Module (3Q0 907 338 - 4B Multi-function module). The LCMs r sub-systems (slaves) of the AFS module. the power consumption of the xenon bulb, and the ballast, is rated up to 35W. the LED bulb takes the place of the xenon, consuming the same power - up to 35W. given there is no change in power/current drawn, all the systems r happy, and nothing is reported back to the "CANBUS".

With an election coming up then being tough defender of US jobs is key.

The current import tariff for cars from China is 10%

US doing this under trade statute 301 and not Anti Dumping, Countervailing our Retalitary duties but still could go to the World Trade Organisation for decesion. EU and UK could do the same and China might well stop certain minerals which they have a virtual monopoly which will harm some sections of electronics it is expected. Trade wars can harm both consumers and some manufacturers, hopefully get sorted. China will setup in some other countries, including Mexico probably, which is NAFTA, so circumvent these direct US on China goods traffic that way.

Version 1969 refers to the software version of the Infotainment system. Since launch, Mk4 Octavias have had issues with the system. 1969 is the latest; 1941 was the version that stabilised a whole load of stuff, notable repeated reboots of the system after starting the car. Do you need to do anything? Arguably, only if you have issues with your car; and then, if under [extended?] warranty still, ideally get your dealer to update it and check for other updates whilst they're at it.

Even more important than the converting of cars over from ICE to EV, and up there with delivery van fleets from ICE to EV the HGVs doing the same is key to further cleaning up our air and putting less CO2 in the Earth's atmosphere..... UK Government backed ie you taxes........ th

G12 evo is what you need if you don't have a silicat bag. What I did was take the return line off the expansion tank, run engine, heater one etc...in the hope it opens up the whole circuit. Run the return line into a bucket. As the expansion tank went down, top up with new G12evo. I ran 10ltrs through. 1year on, I did 5ltrs on my next service, same process. I assume I have quite a bit of the G12evo in there now. To do it properly, you are supposed drain the system, vacuum it and let it suck in the new coolant. I think you might need vcds as well to open up all the flaps. I have also watched a water pump replacement video and they had a large hopper on top of the expansion vessel, screwed in, filled up and let the engine run and as air came up, fluid went straight in. Seemed easier and cheaper then the vacuum method, but maybe some fluid stays in on a water pump change, I don't know?

I use E/Coast mode all the time. It's perhaps because I can remember driving two strokes in the 1960s that had a lockable flywheel to prevent the engine being starved of oil if you lift off and also it was jerky when you took your foot off the loud pedal if you didn't use the coasting option.

I am reminded of this classic episode of Yes Prime Minister

There is more help being offered to get people in EV,s in the USA in the way of tax credits. But for EV,s assembled in the USA.

Notice how far away from it some lowly old white VW parked (Still in the space though 👍). G

Ebay fees are around 13%. And that's fine; you make a sale and make some money. Freedom membership recognises the value you get from the advice, suggestions and information you've had from other forum members over the years and, even with the minimal work I do on my car, I'd say it's been value for money (incuding in those early days of ownership "What on earth does that do?" questions.

The economics still only work if you can charge at home. For me, the cut-off point is a lot higher as a similar diesel car would do about 45mpg driving around here (this is what my previous Karoq 2.0TDi did), so my cutoff to be better than diesel is 50p/kWh at 3.5 mile/kWh or 15p per mile. I often do better than 3.5 in decent weather but its easy to forget my winter average was 3.4 for October through to end of March. It's very hard to find public charging below 40p/kWh unless you live next door to a Tesla charger so public charging is something I manage to avoid most of the time.

My 2021 First Edition is now completely fine. It has been a difficult journey to get to this point with the car going into the dealer numerous times and many conversations with the Skoda Executive Office. All of my issues were fixed by software updates, and Skoda investigating different methods of applying those updates. Unfortunately it seems all dealers have to go through the same process involving running a diagnostic, sending it off to Skoda Technical, then awaiting a response and being told what updates they can / cannot apply. It's frustrating as Skoda UK know exactly what the issues are, and what software versions are required to take an early car from having many software issues to no issues at all. Yet it still seems owners are having the same issues with the dealers. We've seen a few members join recently who've purchased 2nd hand early cars, where the issues have not been resolved by the previous owner who are getting the same run-around by the dealers. It does seem the dealers hands are tied on the process they have to follow. It is a shame that lessons aren't being learned by Skoda UK on this particular problem. I think if you're looking to purchase an early car I would have a read through the forum on the common threads regarding the "Pop, Pop SOS" issues, infotainment issues and climate issues, etc. All can be fixed with software updates. If the car is on early versions of the software insist it's updated before taking delivery.

Bought my first Škoda few weeks ago, have had quite a bunch of different cars during last twenty years, from Suzuki Alto to Chevy Caprice and very different year models from early 70's to a brand new Ford few years ago. Tried to be a decent family guy with a newish normal people's family car, but after a while I felt very stupid to burn that amount of money every month for a car that is losing it's value no matter I do or don't, and isn't interesting to me at all. So I let it go and dived back to the beautiful world of ****boxes. I really appreciate practicality in cars, smaller the outside and bigger the inside is what I was looking for. As a bonus you get very odd looks with a cars like that. Was looking for a bit more modern subtitute for a trustworthy Yaris Verso and after some research I found precious Škoda Roomster. It meets my standards in every way, with a front from hatch and rear from a delivery car. Searched for a one with lot of optional equipment (after a Yaris that had nothing but power windows front) and not a lot of price and found one. Stylish black metallic color, acc, 4x power windows, panoramic roof window, cruise control, towing hitch, top of the line 1.6 petrol engine and everything. After those 17 years on northern winters with road salt, ice mud and snow outside and lot of dogs inside there is definitely a lot of work to do, but I'll try my best to give it as much years to stay on the road as possible. At least the smell inside is much more comfortqble after a full wash, next thing is fresh up the brakes and put in some bearing that rolls buttery smooth to let this beast rock and roll nearly as new. In few weeks it's going to be multifuel too. As you might have guessed, I'm probably going to ask a question or two in the near future, so we'll hear!

One thing that might be getting overlooked with predominantly low mileage running is the likelihood of plate hard sulphation as a result of persistently lower charge state (<75% SOC) In this instance, a good case for the occasional maintenance charge to 100% with a suitable charger.

I took the same path in September 2020. I traded in my Passat for an Octavia IV Combi. Mechanically the car is sound and I enjoy driving it. The infotainment System gave continual trouble for the first 3 years. Following the installation of a replacement Coms Unit and especially following software update SW 1491 - all is now good. My experience of Skoda Support over that period was ‘mixed’. It may come down to the quality of your local Service Agent. If you are happy with the deal offered it is advisable to check the service records to see which electronic components have been swapped out and also to check that the installed software is SW 1491 or higher.

Yesterday I had a long ride, but on an Octavia 4x4 with the same 7spd DSG. I did pull the lever towards the rear and it goes to 'Sport' (only gearbox response, of course). That made the ride much more interesting, compared to the dull response in D. Can't wait to try it on my own 280 now. How foolish of me not to notice that ... how they say it? RTFM? 🙄

You do have a LIN window motor system. Can you message me the VIN, so I can check exact part numbers for you? It sounds like the driver's door window motor may have been replaced with one from a Polo, with only front electric windows. I think that might account for the reversal of up/down and lack of activity at rears. VCDS can see none of the system as there is no data connection to anything central.

@AGFalco Chassis ground and positive terminal, as required. I'm southampton way, just outside of. What would be the main benefit of updating the battery coding seeing as its like for like? I guess its stored a log over time of the old battery performance but imagine that will just continue to be updated and its suddenly (hopefully...) got better. When i asked a local VAG specialist garage they quoted £150 but they didn't bother with the recoding which i queried. I'm out the warranty now so don't care what the dealer thinks. They shouldn't charge so much for replacements. They blind quoted me between £300 ~ £400. For a 1L f'in Fabia, what are they thinking. Varta D60, £104 inc VAT / delivered by Bardens (now known as EcoBat) sounds much more realistic, which is what i did. I didn't realise these charging systems are so different from the cars of old. But i understand battery technology has changed a lot of late and its charging requirements. Its just figuring out the best way to manage the charging whilst driving in my use to get the most out of it and periodic maintenance charging. As of today it seems to be be keep foot off the go pedal as much as possible. Really helped understand how it works having the DVM attached. I guess there will be times when it has a constant charge when it feels like it, I've seen that already a few months back when i was checking it out. But obviously now i realise its not always working like that. Been reading a few threads of all the problems people have been having with the start stop on the mk3's, all seems to be pretty much battery related and charge condition. I mean, you just get in the car and drive right. Its starts, you go.

I think the engine is pushed by the remap way over and adding a caravan is killing it. Reputable tunner in my country said to me there is little room to remap this engine (wich I also have) safely and reliable. His advice was for best reliability was:"don't do it" or max 205 HP if you really want

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

I'm still not seeing any proof to say that the video is misinformation. Remember: Just because current world evolves around oil, does not mean we are reliant on oil indefinitely. Just because current refinery output is such, does not mean it cannot be tweaked so that less petrol/diesel are produced and more of other stuff can be produced. Refinery output are constantly being tweaked to produce optimum output matching demand. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/more-olefins-less-gasoline-petrochemical-fcc-enabler-da-silva-mba- Regarding total lifetime pollution: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1364032122000867 https://theicct.org/publication/a-global-comparison-of-the-life-cycle-greenhouse-gas-emissions-of-combustion-engine-and-electric-passenger-cars/ https://www.iea.org/data-and-statistics/charts/comparative-life-cycle-greenhouse-gas-emissions-of-a-mid-size-bev-and-ice-vehicle https://www.forbes.com/sites/jamesmorris/2022/06/18/we-need-to-measure-total-lifecycle-emissions-for-cars--but-evs-still-win/ https://about.bnef.com/blog/the-lifecycle-emissions-of-electric-vehicles/ If you want to label me as "pro-EV", but yet you refuse to believe multiple trustworthy sources arriving at same conclusion...... there can only be one label for you, it's definitely very far from realist.

Yes for Most Favored Nation rate Chinese cars in to EU or UK. Was 25 % for China to US but will be put to 100 % if passed which it will as will get Democrat and Republican support.

Hi, welcome. Quick thoughts. Did you check earth supply as well as power? If you can take off interior panels and get at wiring you could try a test supply and test earth to see if the third brake light works and it turns off the warning (you might have to give the computers the old "off 'n' on agen" to satisfy them with the ignition switch but I don't know. I've no idea of the wiring and connection points so also wonder if you'd be better repairing the break on original wire. Have you checked connectors for issues? I don't know if you could trace the break with an appropriate VW scan tool but with bidirectional you can certainly activate them. Certainly for earlier cars you don't have to have the third light working but have to tell the MoT tester that you have disconnected it and probably get rid of the light on the dash which I don't know if this can be done with an appropriate VW scan tool. You could ask or look on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Someone now will probably be along here to say something like the wire(s) break in the conduit tube thing between body and rear door or yes run a fresh supply or you need to look at another fuse number, or any or none of above, hopefully not too long before they get here.. Good luck, let us know how you get on in the end.

Diesel theft has been a big problem for us and many logistics firms. The mess these guys leave behind is biblical ie drill a tank with hundreds of litres in it and find the can only take a few tens of litres with the rest making an oil spill that costs hundreds or thousands of pounds to clean up.

It will be the motors and the connections within batteries and all the gubbins. As to the weight of the copper that might be right. I do not write the stuff just ask the search engines, then another maybe, phone a friend, get the word on the street and last and least listen to The MacMaster or Geoff and their stuff that they read or heard.

For the first batch of cars (2020, early 2021) not all problems are solved. And I suspect there is no solution at all, since hardware is very old and there might be no even a possibility to update it. I wouldn't go for a car with H56 no matter on which SW it is running. Also pay attention that there are faulty DSG selectors and it is a costly replacement if wasn't done. As well as possibly a bunch of mechanical issues, like many people reported left shocks dying early (in my case in Spain it costs 750 to change a pair).

Thank you for your reply.

Home charging is easy and very convenient. Do it every day, people call it graze charging. Every morning I wake up with guaranteed 50% battery or a suitable amount more depend on my plans for the day. But the case I raised is if arriving home one late afternoon with 25 miles left. No plans to go out and the car is to be slowly charged up overnight. But an emergency happened at 6pm and must imminently go 200 miles somewhere (highly unlikely, just like the need to drive 600 miles non-stop people often quote). In this instance, people often quote EV slower overnight charging as barrier and why it's not useful. I'm pointing out that around London and surround area, unplanned journey is no problem at all. Similar to your ICE vehicle, unplanned journey may need a top up along the way. Difference is, for every other normal every-day use, EV doesn't need to visit public infrastructure.

Just a thought; have you fingertip checked all round the tyres after a run where you felt the wobble? I'm wondering if you have a tyre balloon developing that expands when hot but settles back on cooling.

Odd, its listed on the SEAT UK website (and in th ebuild configurator with a 2.0 Diesel https://www.seat.co.uk/new-cars/tarraco/overview.html? EDIT : ah a subsequent post already said that lol

It would be useful to other readers if you could give us your engine code as not all engines have a concentric slave clutch cylinder You can find the engine code on a sticker in the spare wheel well. Thanks.

They could stop this by using discs that are heat treated - GM did it in the US after so many customer complaints. All you can do yourself is don't "baby" the brakes - whenever the opportunity arises and it's safe to do so, brake heavily, but ease off just before you stop. Don't do things like wash the car, hosing the life out of the wheels, then not use it for a week - I always take mine around the village to dry the brakes. The trouble is, once rust sets in it rubs away the pad and so you can never clean the disc so you can end up braking on a thin strip of shiny disc. The back of the disc is usually worse than the front.

Look to the skies ;o) But in case you missed it there has been some unusually strong solar activity over the weekend. Not saying you may/may not have other issues but given the timing........................................

Just charge at home as much as possible. It's easy and it's convenient. 50% home charging 22p, 50% charging 55p works out about similar to petrol. As I do pretty much all of my miles via home charging at 7.5p, it's super cheap. Drove 96 miles on Sunday, recharge used 29 kWh (inc AC for cabin overheat protect, sentry mode), £2.22.

Well quite so, these days it's something like 1,8€/l, been over 2€/l some times ago. (R)E85 is not very cheap eather, it's like 1,2-1,4€/l but driving a older car it's a bit of a statement to be able to make it run very enviromental friendly in the middle of all those Teslas and other world saviours with tons of lithium thats running out a lot faster than alcohol. Even if we put it to our tanks and throats.

I missed my Pegasus Anthracites the whole winter! They has some kerb marks so I had them renovated and now in mint condition again.

I added them to mine back in November 2020 (soon after getting my Karoq) and can report that they're still firmly mounted and there's no sign of any damage to the body or paintwork. They're more fashion accessories than the long flappy off-road style, but look good on the car (IMO) and seem to keep the car a bit cleaner. Chris

damn it, out pedanted lol but I think we can agree on why generically its just thought of as CANBUS monitoring ;o)

Czech journalist had it on dyno and measured numbers were : 235kw / 423nm It's basically Golf R in disguise.

Found this https://epowering.cz/skoda-felicia-dilenska-prirucka-elektrika/ If you don't mind Czech, "Elektrická schémata" should be a complete bundle of wiring for all variants.

Yes, buy the two-fan radiator from tow bar configuration, I would say…🤔