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Hello Folks. I've recently bought this. It's a 2018 4x4 version with a few factory options including the pan roof, keyless entry and obviously the 19" wheels. I wasn't sure if anyone on here had owned it before I bought it from Wings in Peterborough but would be interested to know if a previous owner was on Briskoda.

New Michelin cross climate 2 tyres fitted , transformed the cabin noise, no droning since fitting them, wife mentioned that is was a lot quieter so it's hopefully worth the £850 !! from ATS. and last longer that 21,00 miles. Had them on our old Volvo xc70 D5, lasted well although they were the original cross climate. Martin.

You were right, it had something to do with the battery. It was a loose ground wire...I checked it but couldn't find the problem. I sent my vehicle to the workshop. They found the problem after hours of searching...

What is the tread depth over 75% of tyre? Is the scrubbing on the inside edge? if depth getting close to 3mm, I'd say replace for confidence.

03f103019j block is a CJZC engine (EA211 cambelt) , 03f103101b is a CBZB engine (EA111 camchain) No such gasket showing on parts diagram unless it comes with item 11 036103171 https://spareto.com/oe/036103171b

regardless of which Government it is (and this is global) then without things like tax incentives at point of sale and (in some cases) free charging (not to mention targets to have Zero emissions at the tail pipe) the number & variety of EVs on the road would be far lower than if market forces alone prevaricated.

Why the hell should anyone get free "fuel" for anything ? I didn't see anyone offering free diesel/petrol in market force driven environments during covid (or at any other time) . The only reason that happened is because of the artificiality of the drive to increase EV sales rather than EV sales being driven by normal market forces.

One of the opening statements about taking a horse to water ties in with my own view. Yes EV Technology is fascinating (and yes there is a place for it) however there is an artificial rather than natural drive to get it too market.

https://mib-helper.com/ you can find if there is an update here. And it is pretty easy to do update yourself. I updated my octavia using this video. https://youtu.be/4I5Lnwc1w5c?si=U6uJb4oKcD8kkDcq

Think it's been longer than that!!

You guys might want to try this Climate / flaps calibration reset as well. This shows an Octavia but it's the same for a Superb & many other VAG cars. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRa6c9UfyEs

That worn shoulder is almost down to bottom of tread. All season tyres (with V shape tread pattern) throw water in puddles out of the side, I can't see how the water could exit if that was in contact with the road so would significantly increase risk of aquaplaning. I would be very tempted to get tracking sorted and replace them. Also if you want new winter tyres, then don't wait until prices go up in autumn when demand is high.

No way

One of the “extras” you might find at the dealers, is a battery conditioner/charger, prominently displayed. I got one for my Octavia, which did improve the battery, somewhat (5 years old, but only 20k miles). Yet to use it on my Karoq (2500 miles and a year old).

Good that seller has offered a part refund, given it’s the carrier has caused the damage. Spoken to the carrier, what’s their policy on damaged goods?

So sorry to hear your plight and the considerable clean up and damage these dumb morons have caused. Having just picked up my new Scala on Friday I am mindful of the thieves and vandalism we are all having to endure these days. You might want to consider fitting security film to your side windows which would guard against some attack and prevent any glass shattering in the future, if you are unlucky enough to be targeted again. I have just purchased 2 Vonetti Bello Faraday Boxes to place my 2 keys in at night and when I am out and about. They are made of Aluminium and fit in a coat pocket or bag and won’t allow key cloning. I have also updated my existing Faraday Pouches and they don’t retain their defence to key cloning once they are a few years old, unlike the Vonetti metal boxes. In addition to the above, I have also ordered the latest Disklok Diamond version steering wheel cover and lock. It is meant to resist attack from disk cutting tools and will prevent thieves from driving the car away or stealing the Airbag. Hopefully you can get your car back to pristine condition soon and put this horrendous attack behind you.

Does it seem to sit really high & feel really crashy? If so, it’s worth checking they haven’t left the transport blocks in place

Be that as it may, the point I was making is that the instruments used to take the measurements are all supposed to be calibrated to the same standard, so the UK shows green while parts of Europe showing various shades of yellow through to orange and red, then we must be doing better than other places.

Hi yes it sounds normal (twin tone)

Someone may have obscured it to help when selling it. I found a small ball of black tape above the LED in the plastic bezel within the instrument cluster some time after buying my Polo. Can't remember if I took a photo, will try to find.

Thank you all for your replies to this, I will sit down and have a think and work out where best to go from here. I really appreciate the time you've all taken to respond to me with my query, educating and assisting me along the way. Much appreciated!

It may be weird to respond to such an old post - but I am excited to share as I really thought my MY20 Kodiaq RS had developed an intermittent fault which would haunt me once the warranty ran out and force me to sell the car just to keep my Sanity - and it relates to above! The issue - my wife (who often drives the car to see clients) would call me in a panic saying the car won't lock AGAIN! It seems to happen ever few months randomly. When she tries to lock it all the hazard lights flash and the Boot Open indicator on the dash would flash like a rave party. She opens and closes the boot tailgate, and when she drives it doesn't say it's oipen on the dash - but as soon as she tries to secure the care - rave time and lights flashing - even the alarm at times and the car won't lock.. Really dangerous as some places she has to leave the car full of work resources and unlocked - then when she gets homw, I spend an hour opening, closing, resetting the tailgate - swearing, call Skoda Dealer (try to help - but have no solution). Sometimes, I take it for a drive around the block and when I get home it SEEMS to fix itself.....for another few months. Today - nothing worked. I went for several drives around the block. No luck. I arranged to take the car in to the Dealer again tomorrow to have yet ANOTHER look at it, and resolved that if they couldn't find the fault, I would need to find an Auto electrician to install a bypass switch. My wife had to go visit a friend, so took the other car - as she was driving away she calls me to tell me that the cabin lights in the Kodiaq are still on. Hmmmm. Yes, they were. The manual cabin light on/off switch for all the rear seat and boot cabin lights was on. I turned it off. I locked the car. NO FLASHING. To be sure I opened the car again and manually turned the cabin lights on again - once again when I tried to lock the car - rave party. Turn the cabin lights off - NO FLASHING! Although I couldn't find this anywhere in the Kodiaq manual, it seems that the disco hazards and tailgate rave light simly means you have left the cabin lights turned on and tried to lock the car - please turn them off and try again. Of course - why didn't I understand what the Bear was trying to say?!?!?! Obviously, previously when I drove the car around the block to FIX the issue, it would be at night when my wife got home - as I would get in the car I would instinctively turn off the cabin lights as I drive away - fixing the problem indvertantly. The end.

Gandalf got a wash over the weekend after a 4 month dry spell 😁

I seriously doubt that things have changed much in respect of rep mobiles etc in the short time I have been retired, and before that I have been a company car keeper/driver over 40 years. When it comes to company cars that are not regarded as pool cars, i.e., a car that the employee takes home and uses it personal social and domestic use, then the employee also gets a choice in the car stakes as they pay BIK tax on it. The only time when that does take place is if an employee leaves and the new recruit gets to take over an existing car. I don't know of any company that gives their employees a top rung car from a premium company, most companies that I know, and friends who are driving company cars tell me that they are given a budget of upto £x for their new cars and that is how I came to get a flagship model from Skoda whereas the same budget would only get me from their sister company Audi, a A4 Tech with limited spec, whereas I had the lot including a DVD player with surround sound, TV, and cooled seats etc as standard, and it also benefited the company as well, despite the list price being almost equal, the lease deal was much less as the residual value after 3 years was considerably higher than the Audi. So I had more space, more luxury, more tech and toys than many colleagues who were badge snobs, and yet both cars shared the same engines and running gear. If I was working and had to charge an EV at a public charger during the working day, then I would not be chatting to other EV drivers or taking much notice of what was or was not there, I'd be busy on the phone and catching up with some admin. What happens up north has little to with what happens down south, so I could be saying to you;- Basically, Go south young man, and you might see the difference from the north and indeed Scotland.😊 We have already said that Scotland does appear to be way ahead of England in terms of both the abundance of energy and its charging infrastructure. Also Scotland has its own government and can and does things differently to England.

Good Morning, and welcome You can't be that much of a 'virgin' if you're on to your second Octy. Hopefully you weren't hurt in the bump and that you get sorted out OK.

For maintenance it probably has a 'service position' just like most cars do for front wipers that are tucked under the bonnet. As for frost, heated screens....... EVs are capable of running electrical items without being switched on. My ID.4 automatically defrosts front and REAR screens below a certain temperature if pre-heating is activated (which can be automatic itself).

Perhaps post this in the Octavia forum

Thinking of chopping in one or maybe both of my existing cars ie 1.3 TCE EDC Arkana and Zoe for 125 kW, 60 kWh Scenic which was vote by the European press and European car of the year 2024. I passed on the invite to the test drive initially, before it got COTY award as Renault UK were only advertising the 160 kW with 87 kWh battery but that was a £41k car and I wanted to go for a car with an RRP of less than £40k. 125 kW, 60 kWh Scenic still has a WLTP at over 400 kms and acceleration of 8.6 to 100 kph which is OK for me, charge rate max of 130 Kw/hr which is fine and much better than my Zoe sub 50 kWh. One can get the red coloured one at no extra cost so an RRP of £37.5k and it should replace both the Arkanan and the Zoe I am hoping.

Otherwise a plastic trim product with a matte effect? I tend to know Carpro products more than anything and they have PERL which can dress plastics and give UV protection.

The Germans love their own numbers and specifications, then they change their minds and/or have to update things, like their engine oil numbers 5** **, and their coolant numbers - G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 and then guess what . . . G14?, G13+? no, G12evo ! 🫠 You can do your own research, wait for more replies, contact VW, see below and accept it or find the reason and report it back here. Good luck. "Brand new Genuine Audi/SEAT/Skoda/VW Adblue. This is a (10L) 10 Litre Container Part Number: G052910M4 Replaces G052910A4" - https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/seat-shop/genuine-seat-adblue-diesel-exhaust-fluid-10-litres/

@Crasher and others...thanks a mill for advice. This site really is a fantastic resource. (Though it does raise some awkward questions about the competence of main dealer if I have to come here to try and get help to diagnose a troubled car....) Anyway, thanks again. Once I have job done I'll report back-hopefully positively!- to update info for others.

After inspecting the guts of the valve I must point out that there is little to nothing you can do to repair it once it’s malfunctioning. I saw some people trying to use some lubricants or WD40 or Brake cleaner, none of these will work. It’s a simple electromagnetic valve with sealed coils, a spring and the actual valve that comes up and down. When you got the error you replace it and that’s all. PS I did this so you don’t have to.

Wise words! I only used the horn because I was picking my mother in law up. I blame her

don't use the horn while you need to accelerate !!!

Dear all, On my MY20 L&K, I've just spent out on a DSG gearbox oil change and filter change. Car runs with a DQ381-7F. The vehicle has done 19k; ever since we pick up the car it's had a whine (which we thought was an aux belt and dry bearings), but I wanted to say that in-fact, this turns out to have been the DSG pump complaining through lack of fluid. Other symptoms included; hard to change into gear (especially when gearbox was cold) e.g. change from Park into Reverse. Car was always reluctant to get going. Never happy to get moving quickly. Gearbox in sports mode was always problematic (high revs, not a lot of go). Downshifting was also jurky. The signifier (and this why you should ALWAYS have an ODBELEVEN dongle to hand) is that when I looked at the pressures on the gearbox when moving forward, requested pressure was at 25 bar; actual pressure was never any higher than 14 or 15 bar. In other words the pump could not deliver the pressure needed or requested. One gearbox fluid and filter change later, I have a TRANSFORMED car. Gear selection is now faultless and you now cannot even feel the gear changes. Had to pay for the fluid change myself, but trying to claim it back on my Skoda used-car warranty (not holding out much hope as it's a poor quality insurance and has LOADS of exclusions). My recommendation is that if you have a MY19 or MY20 Octavia with a DQ381-7F or DQ381-7A gearbox and it doesn't seem to drive correctly (either excessive slippage or just get moving forward properly), it's a high chance that the factory didn't fill up the gearbox fluid properly. For me...the 315ukp for this service is a lot of money but it's cheaper than a new gearbox/mechatronics unit

I'm happy with my 2019 110PS SEL. Its got the 6 speed box, great on a long motorway runs. Good on fuel, can be pretty quick if you what it to be. I came from a 1.8T VW Bora before these Fabias (i had a mk2 1.2 / 4 cylinder before the mk3) Didn't miss the grunt of the 1.8T at all with either car. For me wouldn't buy anything other than the 110PS version though. Only thing you will have to work the gearbox harder in some situations as its a smaller engine, but i think that's the same whatever brand you buy of this engine size. Its good to give the engine a workout anyway. Infotainment system is good, listen to so much music in the car now as its all on a USB thumb drive. Only downside is the tax on the new one, i went from £30 to £200 with the new one. The robbing bastards.

Reread the text in the image….. It says the battery is low if the red light DOES NOT flash. 👍🏼😉

I looked at Google and UAX DSG and found used / refurbished and 7 speed. So being a 2019 2 litre tdi I guess a DQ381. But others that know for sure can maybe say. That would be the servicing at @80,000 miles at the latest. Best be sure and then maybe go earlier. ! How many km has it done now?

No that's not really the case and those would be generalities but it's such a topic that would wear my typing finger out and yes those generalities you gave are a bit right. If I remember I'll link in some threads about what you need to learn about the car generally but there's loads of info in the Fabia Mk3 forum, tyres, wheels, suspension here too, Carlston has already given you good information and advice. One of the very best tuning things for your car, after timely and regular full whole car servicing, maintenance and repairs, is further driver training and it can be transferred to other similar vehicles for free time and time again, doesn't matter if you're new to driving or been driving for decades. There's lots pf information and poor or disinformation on the internet and errors and omissions (I make plenty of both all the time) so you have to check and cross reference any information you get from any source (including manufacturers and supplier (and especially car salesmen). Handling and road holding has a lot to do with the design, build, make up and composition of the tyre and fit to wheel as to going up a size or two, it also depends on how you want to drive and how able you are at driving. The Fabia Mk3 in standard form is quite a wallowy car anyway. Unless you are unlucky if you look after your tyres, tyre pressures correct, don't go bumping up kerbs, or drop-kerbs too quickly, then you may never get a need to use a spare wheel, but if you carry a spare don't be like many and have it under-inflated or even flat so that the one time you need it in years (or decades) it's not fully, or at all, fit for purpose I easily survived for 30+ years off and on without carrying a spare wheel or kit, just a manual foot pump in the boot (and accurate tyre pressure gauge at home).

I've found four different colours for the Torino 7Jx17 ET46 5/100 57.1 alloy in a 2021 Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue. However, I've no ideal if they are still available to order as the latest catalogues no longer show alloy rims for the now old Fabia MK3. Torino 7Jx17 ET46 5/100 57.1 alloy rims (for Fabia MK3) black gloss 5JA071497AA JX2 black matt brushed 5JA071497Q ZG6 black metallic brushed 5JA071497P FL8 silver metallic brushed 5JA071497N 8Z8 https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b Wide low-profile tyres such as 215/40R17 can have more lateral grip in warm dry summer weather, so if you push them hard through the corners you will be travelling faster if you lose control of the car than if the car was on narrower tyres. Once you have a lot of driving experience you should be able to drive safely on any tyres because knowing what you can and can't do safely on whatever tyres are fitted to the car is the difference between losing your no claims bonus or keeping it. You should be aware that tyre grip varies enormously depending on weather and road conditions. A wide low-profile summer tyre such as 215/40R17 can have surprising little grip in cold weather, especially if there is snow or ice...but they aren't good even in cold rain below about 7 degrees centigrade. Another thing to be aware of is the large difference in price between different tyre sizes. For example, a good 185/60R15 tyre might cost £80 but a good 215/40R17 tyre might cost £130. Multiply the difference by five to include a spare, and that's £250 more for a set of new tyres.

Our seat belt warning used to come on intermittently and I can confirm it can be turned off vcds I got our trusted independent to do it years ago I have never forgotten to wear the seat belt either.

Wrong! The passenger seat has a pressure pad which if working correctly will register the presence of a passenger and sound the bong if their seatbelt is not buckled, when functioning correctly it will trigger when a bag of shopping is placed on the seat but not a lighter half filled one, the silver foil inside can delaminate and cause false presence detection and hence the seatbelt alarm.

I had this issue - "intermittent" eventually became "constant" and in the end I had the belt buckle unit replaced. It will be the driver seat unit at fault as there are no sensors on the others, because who wants a beeping constantly if the driver is alone in the car?

I have the 1.5 manual SE trim on 16 inch wheels. I find the gearbox is a delight, almost one finger operation and the car is smooth, easy to drive (very quick if you want it to be), comfortable and easy to maneuver into tight spaces etc. I am not into bells and whistles hence the SE spec and I use an iPhone and google maps. Niggles - well the front seat doesn't fully recline which makes getting long stuff into the car a bit of a pain and that's about it. Oh the engine is so quiet and smooth its is very easy to find oneself at 10 mph going around a tight roundabout etc. in 5th or 6th gear..... needless to say the engine coughs and stalls when you put the accelerator down to speed up. As long as the engine revs remain above 1500 in the higher gears its absolutely fine. Ride can be a bit bumpy and noisy depending on the surface but the 16 inch wheels are definitely a softer ride than the alternatives - I found the Monte Carlo version which I drove as a test drive quite harsh at times. John

Wow, brilliant deduction Watson, what are your proposals for people like me then, chop off my legs so I can get into smaller cars 🤣

Motor stopped working, few days later worked for a few sweeps then stopped, It thought loose connection with tailgate up and down but did it once with TG not in use, I dont have trim remover is there a way of exposing motor and removing trim without special tools

There is no drain hose on a modern lead acid battery, they have a gallery system for venting gases, it is implausible for acid to leak other than through massive overcharging when the casing would swell up like a melon before any electrolyte were to escape. The turbo actuators frequently seize just from the ambient moisture, the battery acid is a red herring. Your ECU casing has minor oxidisation of the electro-plating from ambient moisture, once again not gravity defying battery acid. The above claims are enough to tell me your mechanic is beyond his competence, falling back on "it must be the ECU" is further evidence of that. You are quite some way down a path of considerable expense for no positive outcome.

I prefer OE/OEM solutions, that's why I fitted an original camera using the factory wiring diagram. This gives me all the features of a factory fitted camera including a washer jet. It's also fully diagnostic compatible and allows calibration. They are currently about £70 on aliexpress. For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000197729171.html Wayland (the OP from that thread) choose a Chinese self programming cameras as it's a plug and play job. Plenty of people use this style as there is no coding required. This makes them easier to install and slightly cheaper, about £40 on aliexpress. For exmaple: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html (MQB-CAM A) As to which you should fit, that's completely down to you. The only obvious issue is early MK3's had a small boot handle switch so the OE camera won't fit, in which case the Chinese solution makes more sense. For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html (MQB-CAM E) Please double check before buying that's it's correct for you car... It might be worth adding a link to the camera you have installed as that might give some clues as to your installation issue

There is very big chance that just SW loading will solve your problem. You need SW 6276.

**Update** All sensors and abs control module were fine, it was the rear wheel bearing magnetic ring that was broken. I fitted a new wheel bearing and all dash light are out👍👍