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Very unlikely, it's normally one of the wheel speed sensors - a fault code scan will tell you which one. The flashing glow pug is probably unrelated, but could be just another 'sympathy' fault code.

Pure luxury! But keep the carpet shampoo handy as we head into autumn - which, in the UK, starts tomorrow, once the longest day has concluded!🤣🤣

Unlikely to be a result of the battery not being coded. My money is on a failing ABS sensor. Get it scanned and report back.

I've borrowed a shed space to get on with the job list over Winter. Talk about shed envy!

I think 60mpg in a diesel is also a dream for many. It very much depends on the driving conditions, so I try to compare like with like. The most efficient diesel I've had was a SEAT Leon ST 1.6TDi DSG 2015 model, that averaged 56mpg over 43k miles. It's best average for a tank was 63mpg on a run down to the Pyrenees. It did more like 54 on our hilly roads here. The Karoq 2.0 TDi DSG did average 45.5mpg over the same roads and use cases. My point is that unless you have a small efficient diesel on 'economic' roads, 60mpg is hard to attain, just as 5 m/kWh is hard to attain for an EV driver. My man maths puts the price at which driving an EV is more expensive per mile for me is 50p/kWh

Summer, what's summer? Ohh that thing called Global heating and the Climate catastrophe, yeh I know 🐮💩

Absolutely, a failed/failing ABS sensor affects any system that needs to know vehicle speed.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Was the battery adaptation (coding) carried out when the new battery was fitted? I strongly suggest that get get the battery tested, especially with a load test.

That's a really interesting point (for me at least). I had a 40 mile round trip yesterday. Outbound 20 was an easy run and 58.8mpg, but homebound (same roads) was in traffic and once I couldn't maintain a dead steady, light throttle, pace I watched the mpg bomb, ending up at 39mpg overall for the return journey. An EV presumably wouldn't be so adversely affected by stop/start slow moving traffic. G

Making them travel in the footwell of your Skoda seems a bit harsh. 🤣🤣

Those who can home charge, have bigger battery / longer range cars, or business users running cars as part of their job and claiming back VAT etc are one thing. then there are others that a private drivers and using public charging. Very different ranges and real world costs for different people, then there is location location location as far as where one lives or travels to. Even living on islands off the British Mainland. There are people who could not imagine using ferries many times in a year and others that do it for business or where money / cost is not an issue. Social divide. Main point in the equation, 60 mpg diesel = to the 5 miles per kWh. Lovely getting either of these in what ever weather / seasons in what ever vehicle.

As I wrote earlier the problem was with the phone as I saw how to the Skoda dealer connected his Android phone wirelessly without efforts. And it seems to be a wide problem among Huawei P30 users. ANYWAY! I GOT IT WORKING MYSELF! So after 7 months I can really start using Android Auto. Used it only few times with USB cable but it was a pain. Not that I have tried to solve this problem before but nothing seemed to work and I gave up several times until now. So I will post my solution here, maybe it can help someone because I have done ton of searches and never seen solutions like this: SOLUTION: 1) First thing you can do with your Huawei P30 Pro: Go to Settings -- Apps -- Apps -- Android Auto -- App Details (this will guide you to Play Store and for me it showed there is an update for Android Auto). Don't bother searching for Android Auto update directly from Play Store (at least I couldn't find it that way). 2) You might see that your phone now connects Wirelessly to your Android Auto but for me the Internet was super slow (unable even to search destinations). So I went to my car settings, turned OFF ''Use eSIM connectivity'' (can't exactly remember how it was written but eSIM was definetely included there) which forced my car to use my phone's Mobile Data instead of trying to connect to Internet through Cubic Telecom. Even though when you are now connected with your car's Wifi it says No Internet Connection, it still works and using your phones mobile data. I am not sure if those 2 steps above got me entirely through (and I don't want to re-experiment either ) but just in case here is some other things I had done earlier: 3) In your phone Go to Settings -- Search for Easy Projection -- Turn ON Wireless Projection 4) In your phone Go to Settings -- Search for Wi-Fi+-- Turn ON 5) Went through my Android Auto developer settings in my phone and turned ON Wireless Android Auto and Unknown Sources and set Application Mode to Developer. I hope this helps someone out there! Don't bother yourself with some manual proxy server stuff that can be found in some Forums (I tried, didn't work and it's not a proper solution anyway).

A couple from the local reservoir earlier...........

No way the car can know how much refrigerant is in the system. Except when there becomes 'not enough to operate A/C'.

Only the TDi and Scout models got the full length front undertray. The VW All-track models also use it. It goes all the way to the sub-frame. All other models get the standard short length cover that doesn't cover the sump. I recently changed mine for the full length version. I had to get the DSG version as it requires the two cutouts to allow airflow directly onto the DSG transmission. In addition, I also got the centre exhaust tunnel cover. Mine came with all other underbody aero covers, minus 6a & 6b as the 220 has dual exhausts. Comparison:- Centre Exhaust (#2) + Full length cover (#1):- Underbody Aero options:-

With help from youtube, installed AutoStopDisable. Video really works, just take your time, easy and with care.

I replaced the 4 on my 1.2 TSI Yeti last year with Bosch Y5KPP332. Not had any issues or anything different.

Yeah well it could be anything tbh, not saying it will be that but it's an easy place to start.

Yeah the BMW and Mercedes usually have a cover over them, but not all. Cant see a bit of dust causing a problem. Never seen a dirty one before anyway if that helps.

If you want to check very important to make sure engine is cold and has not been started for hours! I burned myself badly just from driving car into garage for 30 seconds. Just grab the rod at the back of the engine and you will be able to shake it back and forth, in and out. Sometimes the only repair is a new turbo if the wastegate side is worn. If it's the actuator you can try putting a new one and resetting the adaptation. As there is no fix the problem will soon happen again. The larger 2.0 TSI have a clip you can add to the actuator rod to help stop the noise but I am not sure if you can fit it to the smaller engines.

Can we get some recommendations on either?

I just find the car uses a high amount of fuel so better to drive off and annoy Greta.

That's Exactly what I was thinking! (On both counts)

That’s should work - but you’ll have to remove the serpentine belt then unbolt the bolts holding the compressor i.e the top left and far right bolt and leave the bottoms left bolt loose enough to alow the compressor to swing down a bit and out a bit to get to the valve. The other option is maybe try to remove it by feel as there might be just enough room to get to the T30 bolt out on the sensor and wiggle it out without disconnecting the compressor but it will be extremely close and you might be working blind. Hate working blind. Fun and games in this one until you do it once and they you know what it’s about. Keep us posted..! Awaiting that video..!

I don't get the £1800 as DM Keith Skoda quoted us £1000 in February? Even so I agree, £569 with a new water pump for us (or £499 for the other person) and that garage is making a profit !

Well blow me down with a feather. I've been so focused on the wheel end I forgot there was another! I was also contemplating a hose clamp tool or maybe cutting some slots in washers and using mole grips to compress them. Thanks!

For those interested. Had the four 16" Octavia wheels with Falken 215.60.16 tyres fitted today. Total excercise cost me £740. Very happy with outcome.... Better ride & much less chance of kerbing the alloys. Plenty clearance between front caliper & inside of wheel. Replacement tyres in future at 100 quid rather than 200.

I saw that mentioned somewhere the other day - have you noted it previously? As it's my wife's car, if I'm driving it she's usually in the car too. However I did use it yesterday on my own and, just as you said, I didn't hear the noise at all. I was wondering if the dealer had actually done something, or if it was due to the suddenly warmer weather. The warmer weather did highlight the a/c system noise again though, I guess as it was working a bit harder That really doesn't sound right at all (they've changed the compressor already but I'm not convinced that's the issue). Ah, it's mentioned in the other thread (linked at the top of this thread):

That just lets you know that Air Con is the biggest of your consumers (as it's the only one that's on) nothing to do with gassing levels. Watch the display and turn on your heated mirrors or heated seats if you have them, they'll show up there too and the bar should change. If the Air con is not blowing cold then you probably have a leak and need a fix and a re-gassing, I've never re-gassed mine but then the missus's 2019 Octavia blows a lot colder than mine at LO so maybe I do but doesn't bother me too much.

@Gaz no, but then 5 miles a kWh is a wish and a dream for many EV drivers even in ideal conditions. Even TESLA ones if you look at the TESLA Model 3 thread and the latest video on the new long range car. (I laugh at the roads driven in Cornwall and speaking of being in Standard rather than performance on roads were getting to 50 mph might be a wish and a dream.) And as for handling others appreciate if on coming drivers stay to their own side of the road if possible in their wide cars. I still just want to know how many miles per kWh an BEV is doing.. I do not drive km,s. & really it is all just a load of numbers until you understand this guff. Same with Petrol / Diesel, i buy litres, i want to know how many miles i can go per litre. (I do know how many litres in a gallon. but i do not drive in km,s, i know miles...) 70-75 mph is not driving fast, it is just driving to get on with a journey where the roads and speed limit allow, We know the over 70 mph is above any UK speed limit, & above 60 is if it is the NSL in a car,.,

The traffic sign recognition sees the actual road signs in place at the time of passing them. For the Sat nav you are correct, it gets it's information from another source. The data for that source must not be "live", it will be updated as and when the information is downloaded to the system. My understanding from Skoda's website is that map data is updated twice a year so there is plenty of opportunity for it to be incorrect, have you not had the experience of driving on a road that doesn't exist according to the Map yet? It happens in my car, it probably happens in many others. I doubt there is an easy solution. So it is best to use the information seen by the recognition system and yourself as you drive to maintain the correct limit.

ICE coding in STG 17 worked now. I used both, the 47115 login and the 02 instead 0f just 2. So I am not sure what did the trick.

Hey I'm Davy, Been off and on here since 2007, was a active member for a couple of years but nowadays tend to drive the Wife's Skoda Fabia which used to be mine before I started dabbling with other brands of car, but now wanting a Skoda myself again, nothing Fancy like a vRS like I used to have something that will get me to work and back in Edinburgh City Centre. Was looking at a Mark 2 Fabia Greenline and was close to committing to view car, then found out it's not compliant to drive in the emission zone in Edinburgh. The search continues for my ideal Skoda.

At the time of writing the specs/brochure 0330 update was not available so Android Auto Wireless connection was not stable. Hence the caution in the text.

Rubber, for a few reasons, all of them practical. Easier to clean, tend to stay in place better than carpet (I have 5mm rubber mats in my car), can't get water-logged, don't hold smells/stains, and that's just all that come to mind at the moment. Carpet mats are undoubtedly nicer, but for day to day use, I prefer rubber mats. Talking about smells, the rubber mats did stink when they first arrived though.

Thanks for the replies guys. The insurance set the value at £5110, that must have been them as I would have rounded it off. 2013 and approximately 75,000 miles. As a working car it was perfect condition. Upto middle last year I drove the car up and down to Aberdeen 520 miles each way, every month without any problems. First noticed the water back in February and thought I might have left a window open. Dried it out and put in silcon bags. Went back to the vehicle in March, battery dead, jumped the car got it started and moved it opposite our house. In April found a lot of water, in back footwell and this time front driver footwell. Middle may replaced the battery and then experienced the problem with car erroneous starting and dash board alarms. Connected diagnostics and found no communication with any of the modules. Checked all fuses and found no problems. Eventually recovered it to a garage and they diagnosed the same problem, except this time the car would not do anything. Garage informed me they think the water was getting in around front windscreen. Insurance field engineer is coming Monday to check it out

Sure: Check what mib version you have by pressing the menu button for 5 seconds and opening the engineering menu Enter the current version at https://mib-helper.com/ (in my case MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P27000P) to see which version is the newest Download necessary updates from https://mibsolution.one/#/1/9/MOI3/Preh (in my case MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30800P_0308 and MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P32400P_0324 Format a usb stick to fat32 and extract the update the usb stick (Preferably on windows) Insert the usb stick into a usb-c port (with an usb-c to usb-a adapter) Reenter the engineering menu und select Update Select the usb drive and start the update It's advisable to connect the car to a battery charger when doing the update. In my case I just plugged the iV charging cable into a power outlet and the car and left the driverside door open (don't know if that's necessary). Afterwards you need to get rid of the 1555 error in 5F via VCDS. There are plenty of explanations on how to do that.

Thrilled to share a major milestone! We've officially launched the first ever vRS Owners Club in the UAE. We've got a strong foundation of 24 members already, and the hunt's on to expand the pack! Check out some pics from a recent meet-up.

I'd consider having the injector rail securing bolts checked - especially number 1.

A couple from Crosby Beach the other week. And because I’m basically a child…

0330 fixed the issue with Wireless Android Auto drop out. Now works perfectly.

It might be worth checking if one side gets hotter than the other side after a drive as it might be a start of a seized caplier

Extremely unlikely, for many years now Skoda (VAG in general) only install wiring for options that are factory fitted - the only exception I know of is wiring for the satellite radio tuner in the USA.

You just use the latest map that is released which unzip correctly whether on one of MartiniBs found web link or website wrapped by one of the Vag brands. They are all the same files. It's like a library. New books come in but are put at the back waiting for a cover and card folder put in - old talk. In terms of release, the Vag website puts these out in June / November of each year. You can always wait for the brands release or just get it out from the backroom, the file server. MartininB lists are the direct fileserver links, you don't have to wait for the librarian, in this case the web site author to wrap the page around it. It's just map production from the cartography companies via an intermediate to get it in a form to upload into the car. Skoda seems more prone to zip errors where there programs fail. VW tend to be the gold standard, so first call of choice of map file. Better resourced. 7zip is the recommended unzip free program. Vag recommends it although Windows 10 / 11 now have unzipping programmes built into the file managers which will unzip the file without the user knowing its been unzipped. They tend to work well. Zip and 7zip are the two file type extensions you see on map files. Windows file managers have been extended to seamlessly see 7zip files of recent. As for timeliness, Skoda lost a 6 month period about three years ago so they always lagged behind VW. You were better off using VW files rather than Skoda. Production delays in VW files for release in November 2023 on mib2 standard have led to a time slip on VW files. The November 2023 VW release came out on the file servers in March 2024. Wrapped in a webpage now. That probably means they have scrapped what would have been the March release so the next release will be November 2024. Us people in the know took the March 2024 release off the filestore. We wait to see the November release later in the year. German Skoda websites also carry these links but are slower to find them and put them up. More time squabbling with each other 🤣. They are a useful read to cross check what they have. The Russian sites find the raw files not linked to file servers not in their links. They are Audi files, part of the Vag brand, but these get published as the files dumped in other areas not linked to Vag file servers except they have been copied from them. Mibsolution.one carry some of these files or links. It varies, a hobbyist operation.

Luckily for this one the entire dashboard doesn’t need removing. but you will need to remove the centre console completely as it’s located roughly behind the heater control panel but access is limited.

Sorry, I can’t explain the intricacies of how the DSG thinks. But I can say my wife and I have been driving 8 VAG DSG cars since 2011 and have never encountered any problems with the transmission. As a retired engineer, I do reckon the clutches must be slipping or else the car would shudder to a standstill, like old school clutches. It’s the only logical option. We love ‘em.

In the UK you can get "agreed valuation" between policy holder and insurer but exactly what the "agreed valuation" is and means can vary between insurance providers so this needs to be checked and understood by the car owner before taking the contract with the insurance provider so as the car owner doesn't get less than he thought he would (by making assumptions instead of reading the contract).

Thank you guys. I teied to seqrch but found guides how to replace whole gearbox only. Btw I have this one:

Solved! turned out to be the brake pads rattling in the calipers! You would not believe it could make such a loud clonk! new caliper pins and bent out the pad retaining clips a tad and it’s now rattle free! thanks for everyone’s input.