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So long one. This thing wrecked my head with no spark Changed the coil first, nothing Changed the points, nope Plugs? Nope Condenser? Nope Checked the wires, nothing odd So I got annoyed and it sat in the garage. Saw an accuspark kit for the the older ea8X series Subaru's and bought it to try. While it didn't work, it included a new coil so put it on and it started. So most likely I ordered a dud coil first and didn't check it properly. That was fine. Got it driving, tried to take it to work one morning and got to the bottom of my hill before it started acting weird. Got halfway back up said hill and it died. Which caused this. So spark was fine, but wasn't working right Timings fine, spark is wrong. What could possibly be wrong. Have spark, have air, guess what wasn't getting through properly? But it would start and drive, then sputter and die when accelerating. So the C word once again. Almost made good on my promise to put a Weber on it, when by sheer chance a friend sends me a link to a listing of someone selling odds and ends, an MR2 some escort parts, and NSU Prinz and. Another 1992 Subaru Justy. What are the odds. It has never had an NCT (introduced in 2000) but was driven and used (taxed and insured) until 2022. 3 owners on the logbook, the dealership, the owner who owned it to 2022 and the man I bought it off. So for 200 euro, I got it. 90000 odd miles, 1L GL (5door) but same colour and spec as mine otherwise. Runs and drives, drove onto the trailer. It is completely rotten, there is no saving it. It makes the vRS I got for the SDI seem solid. Got it back home and took it for a spin. It starts on the button, engine is perfect. It is complete but as I say rotten. It has a very nice grille on it. An autoplas grille with spotlamps. It's in good shape and will find it's way to mine. Not a looker but all there. To drive, it's pretty good. Clutch must be new it's very strong. Carb is working perfectly. Even though it's got nearly triple the miles of mine the engine is strong. From what I know about it, it was well cared for until it got took off the road. Bit of a shame to strip it but there really is no saving it. Also bought this parts catalogue to boot.

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Well I got a reply... "Matthew has read your email" "It's been passed to the Executive Team who will be looking into it as a priority" So let's see what happens.

A slightly smaller Enyaq. Make an Octavia replacement and sell millions of em!

He probaly used a dial gauge to check for run out on the discs, this should not exceed 0.025mm. If we get a car come in with a warped disc, we do a runout check on the hub around each side of the wheel bolt and here the maximum figure is basically zero. Sometimes new discs can warp if the hub face has not been cleaned down properly, if a wire wheel won't bring them spotless, we run the engine in gear and use a flat steel block with 80 grit to grind the face clean.

DSG second thermostat failiure caused temperatures not reaching the oprational ones, not overheating. Fan is working?

The MK3 Octavia never got an electronic handbrake so they are normal calipers 👍

Mine is actual a Riviera model which was a 300 in number limited run of the ZE50. In truth I think it was during the mad Covid times so they saw what they could put in the Zoe, saw what they could not which was in the GT line spec which was the top spec and then called in Riviera. Thankfully it has the Auto braking bits which I think is important. Blind Spot alert, lane departure, traffic sign recognition and in all 17 safety measure and the shell is basically the same as the first model ie 22 kwh version, which got 5 stars EuroNCAP. Ze50 got re-evaluated and got no stars because now, apparently, you have to have about 30 safety measures to score well. All Zoe have the annoying no seat height adjustment as this was before Renault (LG Chem) thinner battery cells so batter pack is fat ie something like 200 mm rather than on the new megane-e and Scenic where the pack is closer to 100 mm. Zoe ZE40 is a bit of a long range ,and now cheap, range demon. Rumoured to have basically the same 55 kWh gross battery pack with a quarter of cells held in reserve. Near 400 kms has been achieved in fairly normal driving conditions. Whilst Renault toyed with 43 kW AC charging on some Ze40 models the ZE40 never got DC charging, not even 50 kW as the Ze50 has got so it is not as useful for long journeys unless not in a rush as at and one enjoys French two hour lunch/diner breaks. Personally much prefer the ZE50 exterior and interior. The Google inbuilt nav is great. Perhaps with spiralling downwards running costs due to cheaper lecky, recognition of super low servicing costs, cheap tyres and quite cheap insurance the Zoe value will either not fall any more or even start to rise again.

Without studded tyres any car will be useless on ice. 🤣

Assuming it has the standard 205/55/R16 tyre then it's fine inasmuch as it will get you home safely (but ideally at reduced speed) but won't enable you to use cruise control. Changing the tyre to a 205/65/R16 as I have done enables use of cruise control and TPMS (and makes me happier to go a bit faster) but obviously I understand these aren't important things to everyone.

So finally took it for its first spin outside in a long time. It runs, and drives. Had an issue where it died, not sure if it's the battery that was in it (very possible) or a charging issue. Well used to this from it's original incarnation. Put a bigger battery in it and seemed fine. Issue with the power brakes, seem to want to suck down and hold the brakes occasionally. Brakes work fine thankfully, clutch is very low but works fine. Just different to what I'm used to. Would say finishing stretch but not quite yet. Certain other projects detracting from this as usual. But we're getting there.

MY2017 Sportline 280 4x4

Yesterday i finished fantastic 3615 km round trip across Sweden and Norway Thanks to the default speed limit 80 km/h, got numbers which i haven't ever seen before - top score on the display were 6.5 l/100km. Calculation for whole trip is 7.8 (36mpg) by filled 98/95 vs kms Keeping to the speed limit didn't save me from being stopped by an unmarked traffic police car, Škoda Superb wagon followed me about 15 kms - they didn't like the maneuver of overtaking a nearly stationary car as driving in the opposite direction Enyaq was still ~500 meters away, i overtook without using the accelerator pedal and returned to my line No fine just papers/trunk check and talking about driving safety (first hour in Norway) . . . . . .

Hi, Our 2.0L diesel SE L Yeti is now eight years old and how fast the years have flown by. We bought it new and it's now got 34,500 miles on its clock without missing a beat. It sailed through the MOT today and still scrubs up like new. Whilst awaiting the MOT being carried out a mechanic came into the reception and said "That's a nice car" of course I agreed with him; he went on to say he has friends with Yeti's and they all love them. Our Yeti is a keeper; we still love it and it's a pleasure to own & drive; as long as it doesn't start to cost a lot in repairs we won't part with it and looking at the price of modern boxes we can buy a lot of spares for what it would cost to buy another new car. We usually trade in for new at two or max three years; if Yeti's were still made we'd be on our third now. We no longer trust main Skoda dealers and have found an independent privately owned service garage with a top reputation for honesty; this garage did the MOT today and will be servicing the car shortly. We don't want to trade down to a milk float living in fear of a big battery. C'mon Skoda; break the trend and reopen the Yeti production line but build Yeti's without so many unwanted electronics. Kind regards, Col.

So after driving a G20 m340i for 2 years, decided i need something with more space and more useful in daily life. So picked up a FL nardo grey sportline, with the 2.0 TSI 206kw engine that is the same as the golf 8R engine with the DNFE code and same gearbox, not yet sure about the haldex but we will see. Currently there are mounted 19 inch supernovas with spacers. This week we will mount lowering springs and do Stage 1 that seems really promising at around 390PS. The plan is to have the car really long term and then later get a weekend car so i will try to not go to far with power upgrades, I would like to do some retrofits and i hope @ApertureS and other folk of the forum could help me out. First few retrofits i would like to do is: Phone wireless charger, passenger powered seat, and auto drop rear seats from the trunk and if its possible to upgrade USB-B to C as there is only 1 in the car currently.

Different brands will often have slightly different ideas of what the exact specification of each OEM part number should be. Many of the aftermarket rear springs matching 3Q0511115AK have a wire diameter of only 11.75mm. This seems to be on the thin side, and for this reason I suggest going up one weight range to 3Q0511115AL where many of the aftermarket springs sold to match this OEM part number have a wire diameter of 12.5mm. The online spring catalogues from Kilen, Lesjofors, and KYB list 3Q0511115AL rear springs for the Superb MK3 2.0TDI 140kW 4x4 hatchback. The gknautomotive.com spring catalogue also lists 3Q0511115AL rear springs for this car with DCC...and one weight range higher 3Q0511115M rear springs for this car without DCC. So it would appear that sometimes the DCC version gets slightly softer rear springs (one weight range softer) compared to the non-DCC version...at least going by the gknautomotive.com spring catalogue. 5Q0411105GN front springs https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105gn?supplier[]=246&supplier[]=253&supplier[]=85 3Q0511115AL rear springs https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115al?supplier[]=253&supplier[]=85&supplier[]=246

I had a blown fuse the other week after dropping something into the 12v socket which shorted it. The fuses are behind the glove box and it took about 10mins to replace the fuse with most of that time being to refit the glovebox flap. It's an easy job.

They have been on the go for many years and plenty of good reviews, always seem to quote the highest figures too. All depends on the Dyno though.

wow, I thought ours was pretty low mileage, ours just turned 10 years old now and 45,100 miles. In for service and mot on Thursday, fingers crossed for an all clear.

Hi EnterName. Thanks for this. I'll ask the garage to look at the Anti Roll bar links when they MOTing her.... surely these will be looked at anyway.... Hopefully they notice it when they pull her into bar 🤞🏻 Thanks again, and all the best 👊🏻

@Geoff1959 has not signed in since last year. He might get an alert now though.

Was previously part of the Amundsen Plus pack which is now standard on all models.

@nta16 I found it by accident. I was sitting back with a large vodka in one hand and the latest (at that time) copy of Practical Classics in the other and there was a piece about Powdercoat repair spray so as I am doing a full resto on a 94 S2 I thought it would come in handy for touching up the inevitable chips in all the lovely RAL9005 bits... it is a bit thin to use as a touch up (decant and leave to thicken) and a bit shinny for me. Then out of the blue their rep called me and we got chatting, apart from him being in Belfast and randomly knowing the owner of a Scirocco GTX we have just finished for a chap in Scotland, he got me to order a mixed box of six so I had two more black, two cold galve (excellent stuff) and two DBX. I was a bit sceptical but one of the lads was struggling to get a Golf 2 16v seat to move last week as the mechanism was all rusted up, spayed it on, gave it overnight and bingo. I hope it may come in handy next time I get a PQ35 platform car with the brake pedal sticking down due to the pivot pin rustsing.

A broken spring can also cause this. Only a small bit may break off making it hard to spot, but means the spring doesn't fully sit in correctly and can move about in certain manuvers

An Estate & a Van / commercial version and really have a place in the BEV & Light Goods BEV market.

I know i'm probably going to get a lot of hate for this but i don't think i've ever had it make me veer or swerve since having the car. I've had it in a few VW courtesy cars over the years from my VAG specialist when the Superb or Fabia were in for services etc.... and as explained by VW Germany to my specialist when they were over there being trained on the tech it's designed to be used with your lane change indicators but it seems here in Britain the majority of people just change lanes rather than flicking the indicator. I've always just used the lane change faciltiy anyway over the years but as i say i've not had the car make me swerve or veer in daily use. I'm not 100% sure but isn't the strength also adjustable in the settings so maybe i have mine at a lower setting? There is a little pull on the steering when i do purposely cross a line or maybe a painted over line etc..... As I say is it because us Brits just don't use the lane change indicators as we maybe should?

@nta16 If you fancy experimenting then try some of this, it is amazing stuff https://www.lubricantsuppliers.com/product/bdx-01-bulldog-bdx @killie77 All mechanics end up feeling that way after about a week in the job, never mind after 42 years!

Using the correct oxygen sensor socket for that sensor will help and not too much or indirect leverage. My choice of penetrating/releasing agents are PlusGas or better still for this and other general longer lasting lubrication GT85. Obviously you don't want to be drip gravity feeding or spraying any stuff on a warm or hot exhaust (or spilling any 3-In-one oil on a cold exhaust, wow the fumes off that next time you start the engine, guess how I know).

Pre cat is 04E 906 262 BH and post cat 04E 906 262 BJ, stick to Bosch or genuine. No heat should be required to release the sensor, it isn't common for the boss thread to Gall but if it does, there isn't much hope of saving the boss and a new one would need welding in. When the sensor releases, it will go with crack and then run smooth, almost finger tight straight away, if it feels tight as it is just moving with an almost rubbery sensation, stop and try and retighten it but it will probaly be too late. After the sensor initailay cracks away, it would not hurt to spray some penetrating oil in the gap.

don't look at the price, that's just a print screent, the price is 52 usd almost similar to Sinosmart. i just spoke with the seller, he's looking for solutions.

Sets of 'wheel alignment pins' in multiple sizes are widely advertised and their price can vary from fairly cheap to very expensive. I've seen the set you provided a link to for around £17 on-line (identical but with a different brand-name) but you definitely got a bargain at under-8-quid. I have one of these Its light weight suggests it's some sort of alloy. It has a hard super-smooth black (anodised?) finish, is very nicely made and is easily inserted and removed from the hub's bolt-holes. I know it still works OK as I used it when removing/replacing a wheel on my Skoda Roomster yesterday! If I remember correctly it cost about £9. For the record, a Fabia Mk4 alloy wheel with a 195/55 R16 tyre weighs about 19kg (42lbs).

Just changed my rear pads (2015 1.4TSi Estate). Straightforward job, used a standard caliper rewind tool.

Do a search. briskoda dsg second thermostat . Just so you can be aware of this possible issue.

Thanks for the replies. My Stepson who is a very good Mechanic. Uses an Autel Scanner which he knows his way around. He sent me a Video of the Sensor which has a Black plug on the end. Due to the location on the Manifold it will have to be given a fair bit of heat to loosen it so that the threads don't strip. He checked with a multimeter on the plug end and he's 99 percent sure the Sensor Lead has gone. I'll order one this week and hopefully he can fit it this weekend coming.

I really could manage with a 22 kW AC charging EV. The issue for me was the seat height and hardness, & no arm rest, so really the cockpit. But if i was to go with cash money to buy an used BEV the Zoe would be top of my list.

I'm loving the Citroen DS23 Safari Estate in the background

That was a fantastic trip and it's one that I'd love to do, but SWMBO isn't interested as she likes to go somewhere warm and with plenty of shops! I've been to most European countries, but Norway's one I haven't visited yet.

@E30Mark - there is a single Torx screw in the middle, which u can see the hole in the pic u shared. The rest is clips. U need to grab hold the bottom edge, and use short, forceful upward direction to separate the trim piece. However looking at ur last pic, ur trim piece looks completely different. Do u have facelift Superb? U also don't have room a tyre given all those other fittings in there.

As for the brakes, yes they might last the original 50k but after time corrosion sets in and they wear out faster. Not forgetting aftermarket parts or poorer quality that won't last as long.

Pretty sure it’s held in with a couple of torx screws then some clips. i had to remove mine and modify it to fit my full sized 19” in there as per the above photo too

Finally managed to use the wood batten from my old summer house as a test to use in front of my Halfords ramps, it was successful but sketchy in an auto even with auto hold off Without the wood the front bumper would touch the ramp, now it’s all good I can finally start my own oil changes, some other day…

This is from my 10 year old 1.4tsi manual before I topped up before local fuel prices go up by 20%. Trip distance since last refuelled. 310 km by my wife over a couple of weeks and the last 63km by me (four separate journeys on one day because I left my phone behind on the first trip) were all urban. My stint averaging 5l/100 at 30kph average speed accounts for the high projected (and unlikely to achieve) range on remaining fuel. I would expect a 1.0tsi manual to be capable of improving on consumption of a 1.4tsi in similar conditions. You will note it is winter here 😞 .

As far as I can see, it makes zero difference what ever driving mode you are in, sport/eco/comfort/normal etc, the greenscore, only seems to take into account is the speed of the car, the throttle inputs, the amount of time spent stationary in traffic so it would seem that it is attempting to show just how effectively the car is being driven to allow the fuel to be consumed in the most efficiently way as far as combustion/pollution is concerned rather than the actual MPG figures.

One thing to note is it's the oil temp you want to warm up rather than the coolant. Might get to 90 on the coolant but oil temps could still be low.

"Rear seat release from boot is new and it’s great." This was a £90 option on the MK3! even my dealer at the time said it was a bit mean of Skoda and should have been a standard feature

https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk3-5e-2017-2018-fuse-box-diagram

Karoq SE 1.5 Drive DSG Black Magic As roof rail and window trim come in black as standard I decided to match grill surround. Used black gloss wrap.