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I'd imagine the 140k you mention is based on a dry belt remaining dry, in normal conditions, and not unduly affected by other factors, such as a dousing in oil. Your belt has been contaminated. Like @seriesdriver I'd be having it changed if it were me. Not worth the risk IMO. Gaz

Hi, exposing rubber based belts to used engine oil wont do them any good, if it were mine I probably would change it if a mechanic I trusted had said it was sensible to do so. but the final decision is yours.

Stan and ollie😁

Probably OK to drive it for a short while, if the machanic had seen it was already degraded he would have been very insistent, nonetheless it should be considered a priority, toothed rubber drive belts and oil do not mix although Ford and others, maybe even VAG took the daft decision that they would do exactly that on recent engines

Absolutely you need to change it, or start saving for a new engine. DO NOT drive the car in the interim.

There is no Canbus connection or communication with headlight bulbs, its just misinformed BS that the sellers trot out. The body control module has a bulb monitoring function, it sends a pulse to the lights on start up and measures the volt drop which is proportional to the circuit resistance, crude but it can tell if a filament is blown or the wrong wattage bulb fitted, it communicates this information via canbus to other modules like the instrument panel, that is about as tenuous a connection to Canbus as could be. The bulbs will not have chips in them, they will have a parallel shunt resistor to make the overall resistance equal to the incandescent filament bulb that should be fitted.

Electricity tariff at 7p/kWh now, 7.5p previously. Let's round up and say 5000 kWh used, 90% AC at 8 p/kWh and 10% DC supercharging at 40 p/kWh. £360 AC charging, £200 DC charging => £560 3.2p per mile. I should drive it more before tax gets introduced 🤔 There was a feedback survey. The only thing I think need improving is suspension at low speed over potholes. I'm very happy with everything else, 99% perfect car for me.

Not if you correctly change the bulb types specified in the BCM to LED using VCDS, OBDeleven, etc.

Coming back from Glasgow few weeks ago, when I was accelerating in Sport mode, my car suddenly showed me the error saying "Gearbox in emergency mode - no Reverse gear". I was already doing 68-70, so enabled cruise control at 72 and continued the journey to Aberdeen. I realized that when I was trying to accelerate on the way, the car was accelerating only if I was pressing the pedal very gently, and harder pressure on the pedal (i.e. when going up-hill) resulted in car actually slowing down. When I got closer to home realized why this is happening - apart from reverse gear, car actually lost all even gears (2,4,6)... Managed to get back home safely, stopped the car in the side bay and tried to reverse - no R gear. Then I switched off the engine and switched it back on in 10 seconds. Surprisingly, all gears are back on and no error messages. Done some investigation using VCDS and speaking to the garage I was told that it's the mechatronic unit that controls the DSG has failed. Then, I heard the price for this unit .... 2.7k ! This of course does not include any fitting and additional parts/fluids, this is just the mechatronic unit! I was totally gobsmacked, we were about to go for a long holiday in Europe, and I could not afford such an expense... Speaking to one of my friends from Poland, he told me to check the Polish Skoda garage and get the pricing for this part.... So I've done that and got price for the same unit .... equivalent of £1k ! I could not believe the difference! I am familiar with "rip-off Britain" phrase, but I have never seen such wild price differences! On top of that, I was told that usually the entire repair in Poland costs approx £1.6k but Skoda covers half of that cost as they do admit (not every time!) that it's a common problem ... So the guys from Polish Skoda garage told me - bring the car here and the repair will be much cheaper - but I wasn't brave enough to take entire family to a trip across the EU potentially with odd gears only and no reverse But I did order the part, and brought it back to the UK, getting it fitted on Wednesday ... Fingers crossed - I'll update once the car is back on the road!

Is my recently purchased 2024 Karoq faulty I wonder?* The speed alert thing generally works fine, giving me a ‘bong’ within feet of a change in limit. If I creep over the limit by about 3 mph I get 3 bongs. However, if I go into a lower limit carrying a bit of speed, nothing! Admittedly the little speed limit roundel on the dash flashes, but no audible alert. If it’s working as designed then it’s flawed. The system in the Karoq works differently from my Superb where I get a much larger visual alert and a hard to ignore audible signal. Only ever had 2 speeding tickets in my 70 years and both were for carrying a little too much speed into a 30 limit. * Yes I’ll speak to the dealer but in all fairness I feel I know what the answer will be, ‘ it’s a characteristic sir’………

That is an impressive delivery time. I am waiting for mine to go in to production, Edit and yes i am jealous. Enjoy your new car tomorrow

I used them on my MK1 Octavia, they were OK and a reasonable price back then compared to new springs, TBH its pointless fitting them if your rear springs have already sagged, new ones from Lesjofors or Kilen (same factory) are very cheap these days and you can choose the upgraded ones for increased unladen height and carrying capacity, I have fitted them to the last 2 vehicles and they have been great. You should look at the colour coding of your existing springs to decide what uprating will suit you best. Carlston is the font of all knowledge on this subject!

Folding, because the spring for the flip blade flip tends to fly out, and is awkward to put back in place. Although the non folding one can be a bit awkward because it has the battery for the little light in it.

A little bit less of the top of my head. How did the thread deviate to the fuel capacity of an American Passat? 😀

Might be a different setup in NZ then, my UK SEL FE only washes the lights when they’re on - first time with the windscreen than every sixth (I think). To be honest I’d rather the lights are cleaned; and just thought - if the conditions are bad enough to need the washers then wouldn’t the bonnet will be filthy anyway?

A typo, negative side of battery. For the rest this is from VW in 2009. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

maybe, but small plastic bag had Škoda emblem printed on it Type-C adapter has none

@Paws4Thotlots of main / high street 20 mph limits every day and every hour of the day / night. Tomorrow I will drive on 20 mph main roads in Maybole South Ayrshire, Burrelton & Woodside Perthshire and Forfar Angus. 29 town or villages in Perth and Kinross without enough pavement or lighting.

They are the ones who spotted it, from underneath you can’t see the back of the plate. So from the front it looked fine and the sides but from the back it was slightly kinked.

Hello there, If you unplug the Battery Control Module from the POSITIVE terminal on the battery, This will disable the start-stop system and will allow the alternator to charge the battery to capacity. If you are not aware, and AFAIK, the alternator will ONLY charge the battery when braking on overrun (Car in gear, off the accelerator, braking). "Regenerative Braking". Cant find a photo for the fabia, but it looks very similar to this. Bare in mind it will throw up an error for the start/stop system. Hopefully doing this every so often will help charge your battery

Yep, I spotted that yesterday. Waiting for a response from Skoda. no-doubt they will tell me its an issue with my charger.

@theNFS25 don't forget to buy (together with the thermoswitch) it's washer. It's from permanite so no hot coolalnt leak, it's not a common. I know that some guys have use copper washer.

The 3 pin switch is just 2 switches in a single body, with 1 common contact. You can just connect 2 contacts for the lower temp, which, iirc, is 3 Deg lower than the standard switch. The pinout should be in wiring diagrams or in datasheet of Metra Šumperk, who manufactured them. The datasheet also contains exact on/off temps as does service manual (Google dílenská příručka if you didn't yet.) Since you're replacing the fan with the factory AC one, I'd also advice to modify the wiring to the two speed variant - the lower speed takes less current during start-up, which means less load on the electrical system and engine. The 2nd speed shouldn't be needed at all with AC off.

Well, one thing that the 1.4 16V petrol engines suffered from, round about the 2008>2009 production period, was duff/possibly leaking O-ring seals on the engine oil separator, and that can lead to a film of oil existing on the lower surface of the inlet manifold, and maybe even dripping down from there. But as said or inferred earlier, which engine is in this car? Edit:- okay, I’d forgotten the “TSI” being mentioned, so dump my first suggestion and check the PCV .

I have Alex a/c and i have installed MAHLE 80-85 'C thermoswitch with 2 pins. As i bought it had another brand with 2 pins.

All in the detail / facts and getting them confirmed. Was there an Authorised Warranty repair carried out by an Authorised repairer.

The first car I owned (a 1962 Turner Mk 2 that I bought in 1965) had wire wheels with 'knock on' spinners and wheel-changing was a doddle. The first motorhome I owned (a 1996-built Ford Transit-based Herald Templar I bought in 1999) had wheel-hubs with studs and changing its rear wheels was an absolute nightmare, with owners confidently asserting that it needed two trolley jacks to do it. I found that I could perform the task at home using the standard Transit scissor-jack, but only just and I would not have attempted a roadside change. My many other cars and motorhomes have had wheels using stud or bolt fixings. It's never much bothered me which type - stud or bolt -and I've always been able to carry out an 'emergency' wheel change without much difficulty using the jack supplied with the vehicle. I remember phoning Ford about the Transit-based Herald, complaining that the Ford handbook advised owners to retighten the wheel-nuts securely but provided no torque value. The guy I spoke to said "It's not necessary" and when I said "Why not?", he replied "It's 200Nm and this is clearly stamped into the edge of the wheel-nut's washer". Up to 1991 Transits with twinned rear wheels had left-hand threaded wheel nuts and mechanics unaware of this could snap the studs. Turner cars had fly-off handbrakes and, unless a mechanic or MOT tester was warned about this, the handbrake mechanism could get broken or the MOT test failed. Those were the days...

I have not done much wading in deeper water since the first time I went very deep and there was a loss of dashboard info for a few miles. I have been through fords that are not very deep several times and done hundreds of miles in torrential rain. I do hope the car is needing kept a few days and not just 1 and I get an interesting MINI courtesy car and not just the same as I have. If with me more than a day it will be going on a road trip.

Best get it done before the wet/snowy season starts.

I had that issue with the Bluetooth module so fitted a slightly shallower storage box under the drivers seat, still far more volume than the VAG passengers one would have, later on fed up with VCDS fault codes for no comms with Bluetooth after fitting a Chinese head unit I removed the Bluetooth module from the installation list and then had to disconnect it as it was trying to communicate and failing! I should have just ripped it out in the first place.

Here you go ....

No, only my drivers seat is electric, this would be for the passenger side.

You'll need to adjust those LEDs way lower.. I tried to crop @Thefeliciahacker's pictures to the same area, that's above the line made by the halogen lamp, which is the part relevant to blinding: The legal LEDs are not ideal either, but much closer to the halogen pattern.

Connector is a breather heater, I think, to stop moisture in the returning fumes from freezing and blocking the entry.

4G devices will fall back to 3G or EDGE, so I wouldn't discount this as a cause that easily - has a new building been built in the area meaning that you are now in a "not spot" for example? Radio propagation is a fickle thing, as I well know from my time as a Chief Engineer with a mobile comms company. When you're away from home (for work or with friends or family) does the traffic data load at it's previous speed?

The pair of 'pins' you bought for £15.98 are described in the ebay advert as "made from high tensile steel and bright zinc plated for durability" so they should be snap-immune and much more durable than the two aluminium-alloy pins I bought for£1.41 from AliExpress. Do you know where your pins were made, please?

My 21 plate 1.0TSI Technology Estate would only fit the space saver wheel and tool kit in with the floor laying level and that was tight. You have to ensure the tool kit fits correctly inside the rim of the wheel or the floor will be slightly raised and rock, so unless you leave the tool kits polystyrene holder out, I doubt you'd get a full sized inflated wheel in there.

50 mpg at an average speed of 36mph sounds good to me?

The topic of this thread started by Dan77 is fuelconsumption, so there's no need to repeat things that will just be a detour. Then you are just repeating more information that will just be a detour. The car not calculating MPG correctly(The car doesn't do it. I do it. I'm a humanbeing who can use my head to calculate as well as pressing keys on a calculator) You'd know this if you had read what I've already have written. Then you ask if I've checked my oil level recently, completely oblivious to the fact I stated I've driven 56.000km over 2 years which should tell a thing or two about that as well. It would be nice if people who actually want to help someone actually read the provided information, so all these detours would not surface all the time(Same thing happened in my thread...).

I put a deposit down on a 2015 Golf SV 1.4 TSI SE DSG today, it's got a super smooth gearbox (no judder on takeup or gear change), SWMBO is happy with it, so that's most of the battle. Thank you for the heads up. We did look at a Yeti with 65k, but it was rusty and way overpriced for the condition.

The given capacity of VAG fuel tanks are plucked out of the sky, without emptying the tank you have no way of knowing how much fuel it carries. Mine is quoted at 65 litres and at zero miles remaining I can get 65 litres out of the pump, yet I have driven past this point on numerous occations so I know for sure there is 5-10 Litres left even beyond this.

I owned an estate for 3 years, switched to a coupe in July, love it, no major diference other than if you pack the boot vertically in which case there's less space

That's why you & I and many others support Briskoda with Freedom membership 👍

Tonight on the DVLA website my car shows as having an outstanding Recall. I will not be contacting my dealer to check. It is a RECALL meaning it is the DVLA making sure the Manufacturers / Importers have the registered keepers contact details. The Battery Recall. (Not the brakes.)

oh my days those new wings are GORGEOUS.

https://www.carshades.co.uk/information/why-choose-car-shades/ I have these in my estate (full set, but I don't always have the rear shades window in). They are very good quality IMO. I like the ease of fitting and can whip them in and out as required. No suckers that just fall off the glass like cheap alternatives. Tinting is notifiable to your insurance company if not factory installed

Glorious sky for a fleeting moment this evening. Was bucketing it down as I snapped the photo with my phone................

I'm loving the Citroen DS23 Safari Estate in the background

Simple explanation: petrol cars don't need AdBlue 😂

U don't need the wheels off. Just look from behind the wheel. Use the phone camera to see wat is going on. Front right level sensor Front left level sensor Rear sensor