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It sure is frightening, feels more like hitting a brick wall. I've had it happen maybe twice when reverse parking close up to bushes. I wouldn't want it disabled though, one day it may just pick up something or someone that my mirrors or camera fail to detect in time.

It will get run down low enough several times on my next trip, the car needs charged at least every 100 miles or 2 hours or so. It probably is not one of the ones they think might be faulty. Built out of spec. AKA Faulty... But since one day it is showing no recall when i posted, about a World Wide Recall becomes commonly known it then pops up for this recall is a coincidence. (not). There was no UK Recall mentioned on H2o in batteries What i think has been enabled is the ability for the Battery to be monitored better. *LIke MOTABILITY telling me that the RAC were doing the 3 month Trial and if my car needed any thing done they would be in touch.* Funnily the TPMS Error everytime i start the car never came to their attention. I have no Sensors in the Wheels, they offered to code them today, i said no thanks, there are no sensors... The 120 miles showing on the App before the car came 100 yards was 119 miles when i got in the car, and 118 miles 50 yards later. 5 miles later it was 99 miles. It was being plugged in that had it Guesstimating 4.5 m/kWh on 80% of 32.6 or 33.3 kWh. As it is it might have more than 30 kWh usable, because people do run them beyond empty, i have never gone below 3% and that was showing 4 miles. So right now charging it is at 79% charge and showing 90 miles. Usually when driving and stopping to charge it would maybe at 85% and showing 90 miles. 12.30 am it will be full. It was strange that it got to 4.5 m/kwh earlier and some stopping and starting and some down hill where it would usually go to 5.5 - 6 m/kWh but didn't. Tomorrow is 1.5 miles downhill and flat and usually by the time i stop it is showing over 6 m/kWh. ............ As i posted back 1st March when i received this.

When looking for aftermarket front brake pads for the 1ZE brake system (which uses ATE front brake calipers) you can also use the earlier OEM part number 5K0698151. This can be useful because some aftermarket front brake pads aren't yet linked to the newer 5K0698151B OEM part number. Aftermarket front brake pads sold to replace 5K0698151 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5k0698151 The TRW option seems reasonably priced, but there are many other options including ATE. TRW GDB1550 front brake pads 1ZE (£31.83 including UK shipping) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315709403955

So you’ve got a week to put up with a message flashing up on your screen? Am I in the minority here? Am I the only one with real, actual worries and real life problems on this forum? I was on another thread recently whereby some idiot was crying because the Skoda app wasn’t behaving how he wanted it to and he couldn’t get an accurate mpg figure for his trips. Get a f life mate, Jesus. It’s both tragic and hilarious in equal measure🙄😂😂😂

Discs (front) are 288mm, PR-code 1ZE, current part number for genuine discs is 5Q0615301H. Front pad set has current genuine part number 5K0698151B.

For anyone still looking for wheels, here is latest Skoda wheels brochure. (has pictures, part numbers, and tyre sizes that fit) https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 Skoda also have brochure for complete winter wheels (with tyres), I assume parts Dept can order these too. https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/c829936c-f0c1-48a3-bd99-55a507038e8c

Removing her from your insurance will probably increase the premium if you remain as the only driver.

My son had my old Yeti winter wheels on his Karoq with no problems.

https://www.euronews.com/business/2024/09/09/audi-row-with-brussels-workers-heats-up-as-it-demands-return-of-keys Interesting article. Apologies if it’s already been discussed.

@Marcrcc @Berisford has that backwards. ET45 will stick inwards 2mm more than ET43. The only issue I can even possibly see with that is if you also fit a wider section tyre.

The My MINI App for my Mini is brilliant. Better even than the My Vauxhall one was. I know the cars location in the BMW Service Compound, it is inside. The bonnet and drivers door, drivers door window open. passengers, hatch and sunroof closed. The car was last moving at 9.32 am. PS / EDIT. 10.30 all done. Technician changed the front wheels side to side for me as i was running them in the wrong directing for grip last time i was at a Hill Climb. Getting washed and vacuumed. That will do until next July and it's Service / Brake Fluid change.

Just a quick review on the New Mini Countryman 1.5 Petrol Hybrid Automatic. Drives well, goes and stops. Suspension / tyres give a very hard / crashy ride. That screen in the Middle. What a load of sh!te IMO. Even worse than in a NEW MINI COOPER because so far to the left compared to the smaller car. A Flat screen that has so much small stuff on it, and for me right handed not easy to touch to make adjustment to the temperature. (Angled to the driver would help, but then it is there for left or right hand drive cars and probably more suited to a passenger using.) Thank goodness for the Head Up display for the speed even though there is a huge speed showing in the middle. Even the physical buttons are tiny with tiny symbols. The B pillar is a totally blind spot trying to look to the right at a T Junction if you sitting not just able to see directly right. Actually visibility to the side & rear is pretty crap and to the front left kerb, tight corners. Seat very hard and uncomfortable. I usually think that people moan too much about scratching plastics as they are where you do not touch. Well where you do not touch has the odd recycled knitted type materials and where you might touch like between the seats, arm rest, storage is scratching noisy, rattly plastic. Basically not my cup of tea. No thank you in any form, ICE or BEV. The last Countryman was Fugly but the ones i was in were a joy compared to the one i hopefully hand back today. No idea of the economy as i an not wasting time looking for where it shows. It had 1/2 a tank when i got it and i will still £10 of petrol in and that should be enough for 60 miles driven. I did put it in GoKart Mode, the crazy noise meant i tried taking it out just to hear again how bad that was, Now after starting a few times i never bothered with GoKart mode and left in the default. My MINI Electric steering wheel controls and the wheel is so much nicer than this New Countryman as are the seats which are leather in my car not Plastic. PS. Driver profile set had thf heating automatically coming on at , 22 degrees and heated seat and steering coming on.. silent ruining on start up and move in hybrid.

It would appear that although the UK Government would "prefer" new car buyers to "invest" in BEVs that the market appears to prefer PHEVs given how much better they have performed compared to this time last year . HEVs have fallen out of favour in comparison though https://www.smmt.co.uk/vehicle-data/evs-and-afvs-registrations/

The temp gauge is heavily biased anyway so not much more use than a couple of warning lights anyway. Is there a chance it was doing a regen at the time or the air con on which could explain the fan? Is the DPF differential pressure sensor still intact? I would drive with the live data next time you make a trip and just confirm the overheating theory then you can start looking at things like the water pump or thermostat

Hello I registered years ago on these forums as i used to own a 1.9 alh in cayenne orange in poverty spec, but recently somehow i bought myself a new project car. 1.8t automatic, l&k in black and black leather. It came from a 96yo second owner who decided to give up driving when it failed the MOT for a 'servo pipe repaired in tape' 'rear driver side door not opening' and needing 2 new tyres. It spent the first year of his live travelling to and from Germany but it only has 108k on it. I will probably do a project thread on it as it became quite a big recommissioning job and I have already overspent so there's no way to sell the car now break even at least..

Try to run it down lower to get a bigger data ratio so extrapolation is more accurate. 120 miles at 4.5 mi/kWh at 80% works out to be 33.3 kWh. I think your car probably isn't part of the battery recall, otherwise they'd have done this very serious work.

The serrated ones are usually on the higher end/power cars. I'd just put in what came out.

I bought used Seat Atteca alloy wheels for my winter tyres

@Breezy_Pete Thanks, appreciate you getting that information for me.

OK. That explains a lot. I punched out a Kwik Foot fitter once. He serviced the girls car as me and a pal watched from the viewing area. No oil filter change, wiped and then a dirty mark. She did not pay and they said they were getting the police, i said make my day.

@Graham Butcher I just EDITED the latest in a PS. The software update has just made the car think it is going to be 4.5 miles a kWh. Like the new cars arrive thinking until actually driven and the real efficiency shows. WLTP was given as 140 or 145 mile, was previously 114 miles which is real world. So it was showing 120 miles from 80% based on a 32.6 kWh battery is my theory. The usable battery is just below 29 kWh. They might have changed the buffer, but i doubt it.

Still sounds as if they are playing down the battery issues, but as you rightly say, you will discover if the reading is correct or not, and if you have got increased range then they have possibly tweaked the battery settings in the software update.

The missus always takes the car to Kiki fit, needed new front discs and pads… but when she dropped it off she said oh give it the full works… mistake.. they charged £80 just for pads and £170 for front discs… I was livid, they came up with some bull**** about pads were for life and get free pad change for the life of the car, charged £300 for full service but never changed the fuel filter.. when I challenged them they said fuel filter was optional and should have been another £80.. I can change a fuel filter in about 20 seconds on a fabia… and get a full brake disc and pad set the front for about £40… never again, I was busy so just left the missus to sort it with Kwik fit… they really did revert to type and rip her off…. Not happy mate…. Wonder if there are any Kwik fit employees on the forum could explain this one….

Nothing wrong with a change of coolant on a 12 year old car, best filled with one of those pressure things on these engines perhaps but it can be done without. @Hig you have run the engine with the cabin heater temperature set to highest setting?

Thanks Paws4Thot. I feel hopeful and a bit reassured. The whole lot will come out via the sump plug and be replaced with the correct volume of the correct grade. The new filter will I'm sure survive any punishment it's had. Would you expect to hear unusual noises as a result of such starvation or will it be silent but deadly damage?

Well, "you pays your money and makes your choice". As a backup, we've had Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons as well as (current) Cross Climate 2s on our Yetis. I don't think there's very much difference at all between them, both good.

'A coolant flush'. That strikes fear in me right away. Was the coolant really needing changed and a flush carried out.

I doubt your wife's claim would affect your insurance premiums much and as already put taking her off your insurance and leaving you as an only driver might/would increase your premiums, perhaps more than leaving her on as a named driver, you can test this when you next apply to renew your insurance. To claim or not also depends on how much excess is on your wife's policy. often there's a compulsory £100 but if you're both older there may be a 'nil' voluntary or £50 or £100. I am not a legal or insurance expert but I think you're supposed to notify the insurance of any incidents, whoever's fault and whether you are going to claim or not. If your wife puts in a claim it will affect her insurance premium even if she has NCD protection. Again you can vary the premium you pay by adjusting the voluntary excess, sometimes you can lower the voluntary excess you need to pay without the premium increasing, in previous thread on here ways of keeping the premiums lower have been discussed. Good luck, never worry about a bit of metal being bent a bit, it's only a car (including the Golf).

In live data (depending on your scan tool perhaps) you should have a tick box for coolant temperature sensor (s) to view, under engine data I'd expect. Coolant leak would be more steam than smoke, as already put smoke could be oil burning off something like the exhaust (don't breath it in). On tangent, you could also have smoke from things like the brake pads if they're stuck or very heavy use, that would also cause the engine to get hot, as could exhaust problems. It's 12 years old and a diesel, so often lots of dirty oil about the engine bay, as put already if some gets on the exhaust it will burnt, smoke and smell. As well as getting out the sexy big boys toy of scan tool did you also cover the basics like clecking the level (and condition) of the engine oil, and as put earlier has the car been regularly and timely serviced, engine air filter changed when required. Could you check anything to do with the DPF and exhaust with your scan tool. That's me out of ideas.

Press the MENU button (bottom right), then scroll the horizontal list of options that appears until CarPlay (which looks just like a large Play button) is in the middle then click on it. If your iPhone is plugged into the USB socket CarPlay will connect, then press the symbol at the bottom right of the screen (a set of small blocks) as I said before.

Just wanted to publicly thank you for the thorough instructions with which I solved the same issue in my wife's 2013 Citigo. Found (on eBay) and ordered the part (1K8 919 237 from a totaled 2016 Audi Q3) from Ireland for 30 €, installed it a couple of months ago in less than 5 minutes and after my local garage reset the diagnostics all has been fine.

Personally, given you'd have an excess to pay, I'd avoid the insurance route as that would be more expensive in the long run. My guess is s decent small bodyshop doing the work privately will be pretty cheap (my mum had a bump recently that staved in the nearside front corner and the non-insurance repair quote was almost the same as her excess... around £400.... When I had the Swift bumped and no one owned up it had significant damage to the front wing and bumper - the local bodyshop repaired it for £270... the insurers excess would have been more than that and thier repairer quoted nearly £2k...

Reversing uphill requiring more accelerator input sounds normal to me in any type of vehicle.

Still waiting on the car coming round to me for an hour now but that is ok. Spoke to the Tech. He says nothing to do with the battery, no battery inspection, just a software update of the Screen, satnav etc. Fair enough. They have not charged it. BUT I am looking at the car,s state of charge. 80% and 120 miles of range. When I dropped it off it was @80% and 82 miles of range. Later I will know if any change noticeable of any difference or significance. EDIT> PS. What has happened with the Software Update is as happened with the Corsa Electric. The New car might come with a Quesstimate with a 100% battery charge and the Battery Capacity (not the usable capacity.) with 4.5 miles a kWh. How they probably have them getting the WLTP figure. So the 80% showing 120 miles will have been based on 4.5 miles a kWh. (Not the 3.6 was getting when i dropped the car off.) that was 100% showing 105 miles and 25 miles later showing 82 miles. working on 28.9 kWh usable, 3.6 miles a kWh.. that was that. Coming home i do have an indicated 4.2 miles a kWh on the car. But 25 miles later it is showing 63% / 71 miles. 80% - 63% = 17% used for 25 miles. The run home is more efficient for regen. 71 x 25 = 96 miles not the 120 based on 4.5 miles a kWh. But the 71 miles showing and the 50 miles return trip is 121 miles. I will charge to 100% tonight, see what it takes in kWh and what range shows tomorrow.

I think your 45's will stick out 2mm more than recommended - can't see that making any difference - I'm running on 16" wheels with a 42ET measurement.

The Original Equipment (OE) Part number of the cabin filter factory-fitted to a Skoda Fabia Mk 4 is 2Q0819669. A GOOGLE-search on 2Q0819669 should retrieve online adverts for the 'genuine' filter. Or - when seeking online a (less expensive) filter made by a 3rd-party (Mann, Bosch, Ridex, Meyle, Mahle etc. etc.) - the OE number can be used as a guide to (hopefully!) ensure that a suitable filter will be delivered. Assuming that a 3rd-party filter looks visually OK, has the correct dimensions and fits snugly in a Fabia Mk 4's filter housing, I don't see how an owner can reliably assess its effectiveness or potential longevity. It's to be expected that a Skoda dealership will wish to replace the cabin filter at the recommended change-interval and will use (and charge) for the 2Q0819669 part. As @Ootohere has said, unless the filter is dirty it is unlikely to affect the coldness of the temperature the car's air-con can reach. Worth checking the state of the filter (as it's easy enough with a Fabia Mk 4) but if it looks clean and has no debris in it, there's not much point in replacing it in the hope the air-con's performance will improve.. On my Fiat Ducato-based motorhome replacing the cabin filter was a thankless task needing removal/replacement of 16 screws, much cursing and sometimes blood loss. I used to replace the filter annually (with a Bosch filter) and, when the vehicle went in for service, tell the workshop manager that I had done this. As the Fiat mechanics used to hate the task, they were very happy to avoid it. I also fitted a K&N 'washable' engine air-filter that the Fiat mechanics did not need to replace. This (supposedly) increased the air-flow rate, though I never noticed any performance improvement.

Check this out

It sounds like the clutch packs are worn out rather than a service issue.

And we are in the next phase. it took 5 days to produce

@Winston_WoofI think it is more likely the move from diesel to petrol is more down to people's fear that the tax on diesel may have large hikes in coming years as a possible measure to drive up the BEV sales. Diesel is blamed for most of NOX emissions. The strategy for Net Zero might eventually change to fall in line the others for a reduction in emissions as it is looking like it would fail to hit the target date anyway.

Sorry, can't answer but how much was the overfill? A little or a lot. How far above the maximum fill level are you?

Swings and roundabouts. One thing is sure and that is that the Manufacturers need to get a lot of Electric Cars registered in the UK in the next 3 1/2 months.

@wyx087 If you read my posts, I have already said the discredit and the bias comment referred only to the US data that you posted. I also posted the graph from that US data that clearly shows that BEV sales are in decline in the US. As to the European data, I also agreed that if the German results were ignored that there would be growth, I never said that the European market was in decline, that is your spin on what I said. I do agree however that in my first post I never made it clear the vested interest and the discrediting of other, actually referred to the US data. In later posts I said that those comments actually referred to the US data ONLY and you still ignore that point. So that was my bad, just as it is your bad when you later claimed that your comments were only related to the European data, which was not made clear in your first post on the subject. Now, can we please stop slagging each other off and dragging this thread downhill??

@Yogev How many km has the car done from new? A blocked pollen / cabin filter can be an issue, but look see. then vacuum the area and shake and vacuum the filter until you fit a new one. I doubt that is an issue on how cold the AC gets the interior. What temperature are you selecting for the cars interior & what is the outside temperature?

Pls share your VIN so I can check details and provide an answer.

Simple answer, none. Every headunit needs to know the setup of the car it's being installed in which means it needs coding and adaptation to be checked/changed. Some people, such as @pab567, can make the changes before they ship the headunit to you. Any Halogen bulb that is a direct physical fit (even the extra bright ones) won't need coding changes, if you replace them with LED (check the legality of that in Ireland) then adaptation channel changes will be needed to tell the car that you have fitted LEDs.

Just use the rear wiper fuse with a piggyback carrier as supplied with the Nextbase hardwire kit, has worked fine in our 2016 since we installed it on delivery. Simple install 🙂

The issue mine has is when i turn on the AC on hot days after a while it registers interaction with the Home button, just casually driving along and it goes to the menu when you long-press the home button, and it gets stuck like there's a finger permanently on the home button, to the point where the menu button and the volume slider don't work at all and i have to reset the infotainment by long-pressing the power button, then it just magically goes away. Must have something to do with compression and expansion of the plastics or the screen itself when the temperatures fluctuate too fast from the AC.

had that as well, restart infotainment holding power key for a while

Update: Clearing up the fault without replacing the part did not really help. It just reappeared in a couple of weeks. So I replaced the faulty part (The passenger airbag disconnect switch, in the passenger side, in side of the dashboard, just behind the door. The old one was a 1K0 919 237 E, but that has been replaced in the VAG catalogue by a 1K8 919 237. The part is quite expensive for what it is. Replacing it takes just 2 minutes: Open the side cover: It is just held by three catches, you can start from the bottom where there is a gap to make lever. You can use a wide flat screwdriver but beware that the dashboard plastic marks very easily. After you open the bottom catch you can open the front and top ones just with your fingers (it is not held too tight). The part hinges a bit on the back and you can pull it out. To release the connector from the switch pull the connector blue tab back. To release the switch from the cover push the two metal catches, and slide the connector through the front of the cover. Install the new part in the opposite order. Use a VAG OBD scanner to clear the fault, and you are done. Out of curiosity I took the old part apart: It has a small PCB with 2 switches that are pressed when in the "off" position, released in "on", and 4 resistors.