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Image of said 'wire of doom' with typical failure point arrowed: @LandK, as with rear door carrier leaks, this is one of those mk1 Fabia problem areas that's more of a 'when' than an 'if'.

The jacking points are on the seal seam directly below the arrows. You can see where they're reinforced so probably have a few cm either way. You need a slotted jacking puck to go on top of the jack. Something like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273453837723

Just to throw this in the mix as regards to more ev's in Scotland per person than England. If sales are judged by place of registration it does not mean they where sold there. A particular dealership who have big new sales of most brands throughout the UK have a Head office in Glasgow and many of the vehicles sold Nationally are registered there. They also have some brands pre-registered in Yorkshire and Maidstone. E.g all their pre-registered Fiats appear to be Yorkshire Vauxhalls Dacia and Citroens are Scotland Volkswagen Maidstone I may me wrong but that's how their website appears to me.

Today is the last day UK electricity grid will burn coal. https://ember-climate.org/insights/research/the-uks-journey-to-a-coal-power-phase-out/ https://www.sustainabilitybynumbers.com/p/coal-death-uk There is vast difference in UK grid between 10 years ago when my Nissan Leaf rolled off production line and today. The carbon emission for EV gets less and less as whole grid becomes greener. Considering a vehicle typically lives over 10 years, best get more of these vehicles that automatically reduces emissions on the road now.

UPDATE ON MY 3.6 AWD Embrach Estate Hey chaps snd chapesses - just a quick update on my wonderful 3T Superb 3.6 awd Embrach (Swiss) tuned edition. It’s a 2010 car that I bought in Switzerland used in 2014 (I’ve never owned a ‘new’ car, never will…some other mug can suffer the depreciation 😆) so now into ten years of ownership. (and Briskoda maybe? 🤷‍♂️). Car now resides in France (although I am currently working in Saudi…) with over 200k kms on it and runs like clockwork. FSH and the major maintenance bits can be seen on my threads here. Just had a new set of all season Falken tyres fitted on 17” rims (I have three sets of wheels/tyres now acoss 19/18/17” 🫣😆). Just back to France to see family and nip out in Wile (the Superb). He never disappoints - a fantastic car 👍🏻👌 Be good folks, Dave

Make & Model: Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI Elegance Hatchback 5dr Diesel DSG 4WD Euro 5 Colour: Purple Mileage: 90,000 Price: £4,500 (reduced from £4,999) Description: We are very sadly selling our family Skoda as, due to health reasons, it is no longer suitable for our family's needs. This car draws many compliments and turns heads with its subtle, purple-champagne colour and the Laurin and Klement (L&K) Pack which give it a few extras that other similar models lack such as TPMS, chrome door plates, Columbus Stereo with SD-card and Euro Navigation. It drives beautifully on both long journeys on the motorway and on shorter journeys too. Comes with the factory-fit Westfalia Towbar and electrics (meaning if a trailer is connected and the car locked the alarm will sound if the trailer's electrics are disconnected) plus the factory fit upgraded alternator for towing. This model sports the split tailgate lift meaning you can access the boot space as you would a normal saloon or press a button and open the tailgate as a hatchback for full and easy access to the vast boot space. 4 New BridgestoneTyres Aug 23, spare tyre in good condition as shown in images. Skoda Service Aug 24. DSG & Haldex/4x4 Oil, Brake Pads and Discs 23, Brake Fluid 23, New Battery Jan 23. Rear Coil Springs and Offside Rear Arm advisories on MOT Aug 24 but Skoda dealership advised no rush. Timing belt, Water-pump Aug 22. This is a much loved car that we are desperately sad to have to sell, we hope that the car brings it's next owners just as much joy as it has us. The V5 states 3 owners but we were made aware that it was pre-registered and used as a Demonstrator (hence the SKO registration!) therefore only really had 2 owners. Both the first owner and ourselves have kept meticulous records of any work, servicing, repairs undertaken to the car and all records will be available. Only 1 service has been undertaken by a non-Skoda garage and that was by the dealership we purchased the car from otherwise it is a Full Skoda Service History. The vehicle can be viewed at our home address as registered on the V5 logbook, ideally evenings or weekends. If we are unable to answer your call do understand we are working professionals so please leave a message and we will endeavour to get back to you as soon as we can. The car will be available from the 13th October 2024 to tie with our new vehicle being ready but the first to see will buy. We can take a holding deposit of 50% before this date with receipt for both parties with signatures and the 50% balance remaining on collection. Ownership/V5 will only be transferred once the balance is paid in full on the day of collection. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: 4 New Tyres Aug 23, spare tyre in good condition as shown in images. Skoda Service Aug 24. DSG 4x4 Oil, Brake Pads and Discs 23, Brake Fluid 23, New Battery Jan 23. Rear Coil Springs and Offside Rear Arm advisories on MOT Aug 24 but Skoda dealership advised no rush. Timing belt, Water-pump Aug 22. Yearly servicing with Skoda since purchase in October 2021. New GPS aerial in Dec 21. Extras: L&K Luxury Pack, Factory Fit Towbar and electrics (including alarm integration and travel option for headlights) Mods: Heko Wind Deflectors front and rear, mudguards front and rear, skoda rubber mats in all doors/cup holders/etc. Shipping: can be arranged at buyers expense but no liability will be taken for any damage incurred during collection, transit, delivery. Balance to be paid in full 48 working hours prior to collection. Collection: Emsworth, Hampshire/West Sussex Border, PO10 8 Contact: 023 8210 9388 Pictures: More available but I cannot get some to upload on here - please message and I can send or you can view on Auto-Trader here

My caravan took my 2litre ford diesel down from 60mpg to 34mpg but it had a 75litre tank so lancashire to Devon even just into Cornwall was possible. I had a diesel Seat leon that required fuel at Exeter So it's the size of the Tank that matters. Evs will turn out the same. Smaller but bigger capacity batteries? Maybe! But the ability to charge in 30 minutes with caravan attached will be more useful if the range can be got to 150 miles towing. 2 and a half hours towing normally needs a break anyway.

The 25 minutes was taken up by you diverting off your route to go to costco, refuel and make your back to the bypass, the actual time taken to refuel would be approx 5 minutes in reality. If I know that I'm going on a long trip, I will fill up before setting off on that trip, case in point was Sunday, I had to go from home to Heathrow Terminal 5 to collect wife and sister-in-law from their flight and the fuel gauge was showing 120 mile range. So on my to the A12 I had to go past a Tesco, on the same road as I was on, slipped in, refuelled in less then 5 minutes, I was out and back on the A1114 at the Wood Street roundabout ready for the 180 mile round trip with the predicted range showing 865 miles. I thought with you EV guys it was all about planning and yes, I agree that on many occasions you do have to deviate off the normal route to reach a suitable charger, but that is not the case with an ICE car unless you're on a motorway and do not want to pay a premium for the fuel, in which case coming of the normal route is acceptable, but surely it is far better planning to ensure that you enough fuel to cover the journey plus some, just in case you get caught up in the aftermath of an incident and have to sit for a long time while the emergency services deal with the problem, which is exactly what happened on the way back. PS. Why does a diesel mean that you have to make extra stops for fuel, they offer far better range than any EV, as I said, my diesel Superb can return on a long run, especially on motorways and dual carriageways if you can rolling at a steady pace with a light foot, well in excess of 800 miles between fuel stops, show me any normal EV that can even achieve 300 miles, thus meaning that in your EV you would need I suggest at least 4 charging stops.

Thats the plan! I have done it in my Vectra and did part of it in my old 318i a couple years ago. Will be interesting how the fabia handles it, especially with it being an automatic.

Towcar 2025 winners Some surprises here for petrol heads

It's the parking ticket holder. or for a photo of a loved one. or for your gas bill. Can be replaced for under a tenner.

There are 3 or 4 limited options here: 1/ Fuel being burnt - needs codes read for faulty sensors and also smell exhaust for unburnt fuel smell and sooty tailpipe. 2/ Fuel leaking - can probably smell it being petrol 3/ Fuel being stolen 4/ Incorrect assumption/measuring by the OP. Elimintate #4 by filling tank to brim. Driving for a week or X miles. Refill tank to brim and work out actual MPG. Edit: brakes binding badly is a possibility. Check each wheel for excessive heat after a drive.

Tesla are everywhere around Scotland, driving, parked, charging, out and about and of all ages, and being near a TESLA Dealer / Center / Service place matter not a jot really. Travellers / reps travel and what matters is Tesla Super hubs or charging facilities. 11 Supercharger Hubs in Scotland. 3 Dealer Centres. 140 in the UK.

@Ootohere I'm not too sure as to the reason for those photos being attached to your post, as a quick DVLA check on the registration numbers revels that only Adventure Carrick van is electric, the blue Fiat is petrol, the 2 fords van/pickup are both diesel and the Cook van is also a diesel and is showing on the DVLA database as SORN? The BMW is a diesel hybrid, the VW is a diesel and Ford Kuga is a petrol hybrid. I still don't buy the notion that Scotland has more electric cars than anywhere else in the UK. The only quantifiable source of information we have is the place of first registration, as shown by the DVLA and those figures I have quoted. That being said however, as I have said to @Stonekeeper that there might some mileage in some cars being registered in the rest UK and then sold in Scotland, but equally some Scottish registered cars could well have been sold in the rest of the UK. Fact is that we don't have those figures, and we have to admit that there is nothing to prevent that from happening, but on the probability of Scotland having more electric cars than the rest of the UK is very unlikely.

Sounds like an intermittent problem with a wheel speed sensor (or the wiring to it) to me - all those systems rely on accurate vehicle speed data. Time to do a fault code scan (with VCDS, OBDeleven or similar) to get a clue which wheel to look at.

Bought this one it arrived in a week , it's working perfectly. https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005006484235068.html

Not shy at all, there are many old airfields dotted around England, some have been dug up and returned to farmland again with just the odd structure left or hard standing, others are glider centres, others have become industrial estates, other are now solar farms, some are mothballed, others are civilian airfields some are car storage centre etc. This list is not exhaustive, there are others. RAF Alconbury, recently started to store cars. RAF Bruntingthorpe car storage (mixed) RAF Chipping Warden RAF High Ercal RAF North Weald (New Skodas) RAF Thurleigh (was used to store scrappage scheme cars) now believed to be new cars. RAF Upper Heyford RAF Wyton

You'll need to pay for one or other of the memberships shown here, in order to list in the classifieds: Membership Options (Freedom) - BRISKODA

US salt water flooding are warning about EV's fire risk, probably due to failed battery seal: https://www.speakev.com/threads/is-this-another-ev-myth.187382/post-3668211 source: https://cleantechnica.com/2024/09/29/flood-fire-risk-with-evs-at-least-some-ev-packs-need-better-water-sealing/ We've seen this failure mode before with the Scotland flood warranty case, salt water is going to be far worse.

Technically yesterday, but I fully serviced her, got a full set of Yokohama Bluearths fitted, installed and wired a subwoofer and put some sound deadening in the boot. Planning on taking her up to Scotland for a 10 day road trip end of October so needs to be ready!

Have a look at the belts by removing the top cover, but I doubt you'll see anything worrying. I wouldn't bother if I were you, those belts and associated bits will be good for a lot longer. Did the water pump get changed last time? Would you do the work yourself if you did change it? (Changes the economics of it greatly).

I figured out part of the issue, the rubber stops on the bonnet lid were screwed in all the way which caused the front grille to clatter against the chassis. I unscrewed them about two turns which made the bonnet sit more flush with the wings. This stopped the rattle over bumps, however caused another issue where the chrome grille now rattles in the frame while stationary idle, similar to yours. I might stick some glue on it like you have suggested

I'd originally assumed similar to Mk3, but several sources quote fuel capacity as 55 L for the Mk2.

Today I tried using voice control for Recirculation. Works fine turning it on and off. Works for AirCare too. But yes, once you know where buttons are it's quicker to use them.

that feature "rear shock absorption" comes from the PR numbers every car has, basically every major part of the car that gets mounted on the conveyor in the factory has a specific code so it is not a feature, it is a component. PR code is 3 character alphanumeric code that describes equipment of a car. in the above exemple, the rear suspension is UA5, basic shocks. If the car has, for exemple, Sport suspension, the code would be different to describe the sport shocks, but the name woud still be Rear Shock Absorption so , someone from Skoda UK wanted to make a list of features and they simply did copy/paste from the vehicle identification information.

Are they not better getting professionals in as the recovered fuel will need to be disposed of, there are people that supply this service, I've even seen one fixing my next door neighbours error, but I can't remember what the name of that national provider is. Are they not in a "motoring service" like RAC/AA/GreenFlag? Edit:- I know that it is not an answer to your question, but maybe just give in and hand this job over to the professionals this time.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the engine appear to run normally at present? Are there any signs of leakage or smell of fuel? Do you completely fill the tank each week - how many litres does it take to fill? It would be almost unbelievable if you are using 40 - 45 litres for less than 50 miles per week (equating to around 1.25 miles per litre)

If this post is not allowed in a Skoda Forum, I apologise in advance. I also apologise for the lack of brevity - after 40 years as a software developer its hard to leave out details. The Metro was bought new from Hartwells of Banbury, still in existence but now a Ford Dealer. It was obtained through the BL Employee purchase scheme, as a relative worked at the Gaydon Research Centre, which is now the location of the British Motor Museum. In daily use from Feb 83 to Aug 83, when I started a new job that included a company car. Very little use until my partner passed her test in April 85 and it became her daily driver until Feb 1999 when it failed an MOT. Having amassed a grand total of 34,500 miles in 16 years the Metro was tucked away in a relative's empty garage until March 2018 when I had it transported up to my house and set about recommissioning it. Drained the oil, changed the oil filter and 2/3 filled it with fresh oil, with the spark plugs removed I spun the engine over on the starter whilst pouring the remainder of the oil in. Replaced the plugs and then spun it over to see if it would start, and it did on the 5th attempt, on old leaded fuel that still remained in the tank from 1999. It wouldn't idle very well, was smoking a bit, and the exhaust was blowing badly! I replaced the Hydagas suspension units with refurbished ones, had new rear wheel brake cylinders fitted, four new tyres fitted a temporary used exhaust system, had two 1p sized wholes welded up and it passed its MOT and has passed every MOT since. The item it failed on in 1999, the rear brake compensator valve, is still on the car, not been touched and not even mentioned by the MOT Testers. Having got it road worthy I drove around during the summer, in the autumn of 2018 I sent the carb off to be cleaned and refurbished, fitted a new offisde front wing, repainted front and rear bumpers myself, dealt with rust blemishes on the front and rear valances which were resprayed along with the new front wing. I took the old front wing to LKQ to be scanned to produce a paint that would match the colour of the 35 year old faded paint. I paid extra to have a paint code allocated for the custom shade that was produced. Its also had a Maniflow big bore exhaust fitted to replace the temporary used one, new clutch and engine mountings and the steel wheels refurbished. In the photos below its shown assisting with Food Bank deliveries during COVID lockdown in 2020 (I was a volunteer driver of the Foodbank van at that time). There are 9 Tesco plastic crates in the back I could have got 2 more in !The Metro was featured in the June 2020 issue of Practical Classics. There are two photos of the Metro outside my house , the first taken in 1989 when 6 years old the next a recreation of the previous photo taken in 2020. Everything on the car is exactly as it was in daily use back in 1983. .

Yes and thank you.

If I remember correctly the headlamp washer only washes about every 5 th pull of the washer stalk.

I've checked the dipped-beam pattern of my UK-specification RHD Fabia Mk 4's non-adaptive LED headlights and confirmed that this is appropriate for a vehicle being driven in 'left-hand traffic'. The pattern is 'left-dipping' and, although flattish, still has a mild uplift on the left. I've also looked at the French-language version of the Fabia Mk 4 Owner's Manual and the relevant guidance is the same as in the English-language Manual - that, for driving in a 'foreign' country (ie. a country with 'left-hand traffic' like the UK), unless the headlights are the adaptive BI-LED type, assistance should be sought from a specialist garage (which the Manual defines as a Skoda agency/partner). My Skoda Roomster's 'projector' headlights have a large rubber cover on their rear behind the bulb and removing the cover permits access to a lever that can be moved to flatten the UK-spec dipped beam pattern when the car is to be driven in countries that have 'right-hand' traffic. My Fabia's headlights also have a removable rubber cover on their rear, but there is no obvious beam pattern-adjustment mechanism beneath the cover. What this all boils down to is that, if a LHD Fabia Mk 4 with non-adaptive LED headlights that have a dipped-beam pattern designed for countries that have 'right-hand traffic' (like France) is to be imported to the UK, its headlights would need to be replaced to comply with the UK's importation regulations. My Fabia has a single operative rear reversing light on the right (UK driver's side) of the boot-lid and a non-operative reversing light on the other side. I can see into both reversing lights and the internals of the operative reversing light differ significantly from those of the non-operative light that is essentially 'empty'. So getting both lights to illuminate would take more than just putting a bulb into the non-operative reversing light. I suspect that the single on-the-left fog light arrangement of a LHD Fabia Mk 4 will be similar to that of the reversing lights and, to get a working fog light on the right in addition to the one on-the-left, would probably require a replacement right=hand fog/reversing light-unit and some cross wiring. Reaching the rear of the fog lights involves removing the boot-lid's trim panel. This 2023 forum thread discussed this and the advice in the 2nd posting sounds right (but I'm not going to try it!) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511125-installing-a-rear-view-camera-boot-trim-removal/ As I mentioned earlier, importing LHD motorhomes from Continental Europe to the UK used to be popular and fairly straightforward, though sometimes tricky where meeting UK lighting and speedometer import regulations was concerned. Conversely, importing a RHD motorhome from the UK to a Continental European country can be a lengthy and expensive procedure and, if the vehicle does not have a European Type Approval certificate of conformity, a bureaucratic nightmare. It's generally advised that UK motorcaravanners don't do this (however much they love their motorhome) as, even after they have jumped through all the hoops and got the motorhome registered abroad, subsequently selling it for a reasonable price will prove difficult.

So a little update on the coolant leak - So for the parking heater, a hose is removed from the heater matrix and this now goes to the electronic water pump, then parking heater, then back to the other end which goes into the heater matrix. As shown in this diagram Now, for the LHD cars this is formed from a metal pipe with brackets and such. This pipe does not work on RHD cars as we have the steering column in the way. So I had to make my own pipe using 19mm coolant hose and some fittings. To join the fittings to the hose as space was quite limited I used Stepless 1-ear hose clamps as photographed below These seemed to work just fine and the right size was used. But after a few months I developed a very slow coolant leak, roughly 1 litre every month and I noticed a small spot of coolant below each of these clamps. Checking on each of the clamps I noticed that the ears had expanded and almost stretched out allowing coolant to pass the fittings when under pressure. The leak then continued to roughly 1 litre a week and at this point I have decided to investigate further, A few of these clamps had almost loosened fully to the point the only thing holding the hose on was the barb on the fitting. I can only put this down to the fact that the heat cycles caused the pipe and fittings to expand and this in turn caused the ear clamps to loosen and not return due to their rigid nature. I then pulled all the hoses from the car for a full rework (quite a lot of work as they run below the vacuum assist and behind the engine very close) At this point I decided there were 2 methods to resolve this; Worm type hose clamps or Constant tension hose clamps Wanting to keep to the OE style and as the name suggests, these constant tension clamps provide the same tension when expanded and then shrink back down after providing a perfect seal always. An example of this constant tension / spring band hose clamps looks as follows: Now these are all fitted and the coolant system refilled and ran up to pressure for 1 hour, so far, no drips or wet spots. But we will monitor this closely and see what happens in the coming months! Being what I believe is the first RHD MQB car with a OE parking heater fitted, we are bound to have teething problems! (To rule out any manufacturer defects, all parts used were Mikalor brand, and the clamps were crimped with ear clamp pliers)

Cheers nta. The paper is always at risk with my cooking skills. As soon as weather permits, my mech mate says, he will crawl about underneath to complete what he hasn't finished. Then he and I can take it from there. And thanks to Breezy Pete. It's extraordinary what one forgets. There was the VIN staring at me. Perhaps I should clean the car more often.

in my case the plastic handle was making a noise and it was driving me nuts... I followed few videos from YT (one below and some others) and took the plastics off, then instead of spraying/coating it with the grease I used small pieces of foam which I glued to the handle to stop it rattling. Simple job, in my case completely cured the rattling.

very pleased with my Enyaq so far. But it's only been a week. Shift work means 4 drives a day and it's short but too far to walk at 65yo. With no special rates and charging on the 2.4kw i reckon around 20kw costing around £5 allowing for 10% loss in kw charging. At the start of the week it's long term miles per kw was 2.3kw/m. I am guessing that was because of being sat in messing with the car at the dealers over time, after my week of driving this has risen to 2.8kw/m long term. I have yet to discover how to sort out the trip and other stats. I don't want to blur the figures by sitting in it playing 😀

I've owned 2x 1.2TSi, 2.0TDi 170 and one of the last 2.0TDi 150. I've also had several 1.2TSi's in other models and a few 2.0TDi 140's. The winner by a fair margin is the 2.0TDi 150. It's the later EA288 engine and feels more responsive and refined than the old 140/170 EA189. 1.2 TSi is fine around town but runs out of steam on motorways and fast A roads and economy really drops away with speed.

No I don’t think so I’m pretty sure you need Kess by Alienware

LOL yes i did consider that but when i look at what sits underneath from the other side, it appears to be a bit of circuit board so might not be a good idea 😞

Moved front tyres to back and back to front, been meaning to do this and much easier with my newish 3ton jack as it lifts the entire side up, unlike my old crappy one

In less time than you spent taking, composing and uploading your photos and description you could have cut off the offending piece of plastic.

I drive a 2022 1.5 tsi superb dsg, which is the same engine and gearbox. No kangaroo issues, love the dsg. Friend has a 2020 karoq with the same engine and gearbox again no issues, in fact we went to the Peak District in it a couple of weeks ago, great car. The 1.5 tsi engine is brilliant, very reliable and economical. Just get a good test test drive and make sure you like it. I know it’s anecdotal to me but I get better mpg in normal than eco.

--- I'm keen to get an automatic but have read some issues about DSG? It seems there are some issues for DSG in 1.5 TSI engines? Is that correct? Any (model) years to avoid? Do 1.5 TSI DSG engines have an issue starting from cold (kangarooing)? Or is that just manual? --- I have a Karoq Sport Line 1.5 TSI DSG (71 plate) that I've been driving for the past three years with not a single issue. No kangarooing.

Hi All New here so go easy !! I recently got this Skoda Superb Estate which I was just in the right place at the right time - She is an Elegance which I presumed was a UK spec but it appears that 14 years ago somebody went to Skoda and just kept ticking boxes 😁 The low number Dublin reg and the kilometer speedo is the giveaway. Probably some toffs wife had it in South Dublin originally. The previous owner had the car 7 years and it has a great history - The car has been stood for over a year as the owner retired to Spain. She is really easy on diesel - I thought my Mk1 Fabia vRS was a miser but this is better. Plenty of room, Its absolutely huge and practical The few little issues I've had are minor give the car is 14 years old !! The cover of the left side headlight washer got pinched at my wife's work - I got a replacement cap but it appears that there is like a small frame that is missing that is part of the jet assembly - That's why I say it was pinched 😒 The auto dimming outside mirror on the drivers side got broken at some stage - I got a glass, its non auto dim and the wrong colour so what is the story on a replacement proper glass ? The rev counter and fuel/water temp needle illumination isnt working and from a look at the net its LEDs that need replaced - We dont have anyone here in this country to fix that and its well above my skillset so its not a show stopper but annoying I tried to do a firmware update on the Columbus and I was sure I had killed it - I sourced a second hand unit but another lad who has a Superb got it sorted out for me - There are no maps in the now but I am now once bitten and twice shy - I am going to leave well enough alone especially as my missus was not best pleased She is soft and boatey so Im considering Bilstein B8

Which front and rear springs were fitted in the factory depends on the car's build codes. For example, build codes G03+L18 would mean the front springs have OEM part number 6Q0411105S and build codes 1JB+0YB would mean the rear springs have OEM part number 6Q0511115AC. As you can see in the charts below, the Fabia MK2 with build codes G03 and 1JB can have one of seven front springs and one of four rear springs. Fabia MK2 front coil spring G03=heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 1 6Q0411105Q Front coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark red blue L16 1 6Q0411105R Front coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks red blue L17 1 6Q0411105S Front coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks red blue L18 1 6Q0411105T Front coil spring 1 paint mark 4 colour strokes red blue L19 1 6Q0411105AA Front coil spring 2 paint marks 1 paint mark red blue L20 1 6Q0411105AB Front coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks red blue L21 1 6Q0411105BD Front coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks red brown L33 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/4/411/411011 Fabia MK2 rear coil spring 1JB-heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 1 6Q0511115AH Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks 1 paint mark orange blue yellow 0YA 1 6Q0511115AC Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 1 paint mark orange blue yellow 0YB 1 6Q0511115AD Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 2 paint marks orange blue yellow 0YC 1 6Q0511115AE Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 1 paint mark orange blue green 0YD https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/5/511/511010 Fabia MK2 front coil spring G03=heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 6Q0411105Q https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105q 6Q0411105R https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105r 6Q0411105S https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105s 6Q0411105T https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105t 6Q0411105AA https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105aa 6Q0411105AB https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105ab Fabia MK2 rear coil spring 1JB-heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 6Q0511115AH https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0511115ah 6Q0511115AC https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0511115ac 6Q0511115AD https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0511115ad

The parts catalogue page for a 2011 Fabia front suspension reinforced springs is HERE. You'll need to know the PR code from your car's data sticker to work out which spring is correct.

I actually had two rattles here. One was the chrome insert rattling in the frame (due to the clips bending over tume) which was fixed with some glue. And the grille loose like you said - but the bolts were not stuck. Also check the bonnet stay - mine rattled there too when it's clipped (the orange clamp was a bit loose).

For those who think that the ambient light intensity is not good enough, you can modify the intesity value using vcds. The default value is 37% but you can increase it up to 100%. You can still modify the intensity from your multimedia system. In the attached image, the door panel has the ambient light set to 99% and the dashboard, is stock at 37%( I am talking of the values from vcds, from the multimedia system, they are both set to 100%). You can do this from 09 control module, using 31347 security access code and go to adaptation. There, you will need to modify the value for 4 channels, one for every zone: ENG128535, ENG128536,ENG128537, ENG128538. Best of luck! 🥂

Loop a cable tie round the wires. Slide it forwards until it is over the bulb holder. Carefully tighten the cable tie. You now have a handy tail from the cable tie that you can pull on to extract the bulb holder.

Summarizing the install here to hopefully help someone do this in the future on their Superb 3. The entire installation is based on @ApertureS' wonderful and informative guide for the Octavia. I will try to fill in with some details that may be useful for those who like like to have everything planned out in advance such as myself. I've listed the required parts just above, quote below: Motivation: - I initially bought a steering wheel off an Octavia 4 and I discovered the install would require a new airbag and a special LIN adapter for the scroll wheels to work so after having been through that hurdle, I decided to tone down my expectations and just stick to a wheel matching this car's generation to ensure minimum compatibility issues. Additionally, I had a hard time finding a heated steering wheel which was also flat bottom, had white stitching, had DSG paddles and was not in a terrible state so I splurged on the new OEM one. This one also allowed me to reuse my airbag as Skoda seems to have changed the models at some point (fortunately, being an early 2019 model, I had the latest one (which is flatter on the top) - I found a Superb 3 owner online who had the heated steering wheel equipped from the factory so I asked him to check what clock spring he had. Combining that information with what ApertureS mentioned in his guide, I decided to go with the one ending in 569C as it was proof enough they would work. - Got the Kufatec adapter to make things a little easier. Process: 1.VCDS backup Take a VCDS backup of the coding on your Address 08: Auto HVAC and your Address 16: Steering wheel and do a full auto scan to ensure you know what errors are new and which ones are old. My old steering wheel coding was 6014. 2. The power feed I have replaced the clock spring before on my old O2 so I was quite confident that part of the installation would be easy so I focused my attention on how to wire the new circuit. I only started taking things apart after having managed to plug the terminal in the fuse box as I knew this would be the hardest part due to very tight spacing behind the fuse box. Inspecting the fuse box I found a few that had battery feeds that led nowhere (missing equipment of some sort I suppose) one of which being fuse 47, normally used for the rear wiper, which I don't have. The fuse was ignition switched and led nowhere so I figured I stick the Kufatec terminal in there. I tried removing or dislocating the fusebox slightly with no luck... I found a guide on how to do it on a seat but it seems it is further secured on the Superb and moreover it's wrapped around more plastics and bolts that were in the way... the fuse box would not budge so the only way in was through the back... Thankfully, Purpletom had a really good tip to help with finding the right way in from the back of the fusebox - many thanks @Purpletom for this once again - it did ease things up a lot! The ground wire got hooked up to one of the securing bolts around the fuse box and the new circuit was secured with a 10A fuse (similarly to how Skoda does it in the factory - 10A fuse on the top right of the fuse box on port 2) I got the info off a guy who had a factory fitted hsw. 3. Clock spring and new wheel Removing the old bits: - turn the wheel 90 degrees right, pop the airbag from the back. - turn the wheel 90 degrees left, pop the second latch off and free the airbag. - straighten the steering wheel and disconnect the battery - give it a few minutes for safety. - lift the airbag, lift the white tab on the yellow plug and pop it out. - push the black tab on the left that connects to the steering wheel controls and push that out as well. Set the airbag aside. - Check the size of the securing bolt.... To my surprise mine was a 8.8.... I only had a 10.2 that would fit my old Octavia... Don't ask how I found the right size... This is something you can easily check before the installation by just popping out the airbag without disconnecting it. - Unscrew the bolt and remove the steering wheel. - Release the steering wheel adjustment and pull down as far as it goes then towards you as far as it comes. - Use plastic prying tools to release the top plastic cover. - Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the bottom plastic trim that are in plain sight and the 3rd one on the bottom side of the steering column - The clock spring is secured by 3 small torx bits, remove them. - Unplug the stalk connectors , airbag and steering wheel controls form the clock spring and remove the thing completely. (try not to spin it around if you plan to sell it onwards after this) Refitting the new parts: - Put the new clock spring in place and secure it with the 3 torx screws. - Connect the Kufatec T16 plug to the car's T16 plug then the Kufatec T14 plug to the clock spring - Connect the rest of the plugs to the clock spring and release by removing the red securing tab - place the bottom plastic trim over the steering column agian carefully, be mindful of the start button and how the plastics fit together and secure it with the 3 screws. - push the top plastic trim back into place nicely (first slide it in the back then click it down in place. - Place the new steering wheel on top, make sure the line markers align and screw the nut back in to secure the entire thing together. - connect the airbag to the steering wheel controls on the left. - connect the airbag to the main slipring and push the white tab back in. - push the airbag back into its place. At this point you are ready to reconnect the battery and enjoy a marvelous sight of errors, beeps and flaws. Code the new steering wheel according to this: Code your new steering wheel controller the same way as your old one. Clear all errors and see which ones come back. In my case it was the start/stop system error (with no VCDS error) and ACC error every time I push the acc stalk (with one error in the Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg) Give the car a few hours of sleep (I gave it 5 hours or so) Apparently, the ACC module goes in some sort of sleep a few hours after the car shuts down... The long hours of sleep will let the car also figure out you installed the same battery and not a new one and your start/stop system error will also disappear. Take it for a drive and test all the systems that presented errors after the retrofit: - Park assist - Lane assist - Front assist - ACC - Hill assist - Start/Stop - and of course... the heated steering wheel. Park it up agian, clear the errors wit VCDS again and at this point, you should have the same amount of errors as you had before the retrofit. I hope I covered everything here - the forum won't allow for more than 10MB of pics so I will stick to a single picture upload. Happy to help people in the future with details I may have missed when you find this relic post.