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I've been running mine at the pressures indicated on the label under fuel filler flap as @TheWanderer suggests; and adjust according to load (full load is 49psi at the back IIRC) and I have no complaints wrt grip, ride or handling. The original fit tyres lasted over 45k miles with even wear across the tread width. All of which implies that the pressures on the label are perfectly fine.

Been great, done a heck of a lot to it and have it setup for the long term nicely. So that can only mean one thing.... Time for another car (which will be here shortly). I've grown to detest the process of selling cars to the point I just don't, so all 3 insured and the bike too. Have space for a few more yet around the house.

Well it’s been over a month since I exchanged my Yeti for a Mini Countryman. I promised to provide a bit of feedback on the swap. Undoubtedly the Countryman is quieter, smoother, faster and more comfortable than the Yeti, but as it was designed nearly 15 years later than the Yeti that should be the case. Not that the Yeti was bad, in fact I enjoyed it right to the last, but you can tell you are driving a more modern car. The size of the Countryman took some getting used to but you adapt amazingly quickly and soon forget it’s bigger, the steering is quick which makes driving it more of a Yeti experience than some competitors I tried. The technology is worlds advanced than the Yeti – if you like that sort of thing! Fortunately the ‘warning’ bongs are well muted and easy to switch off, the lane departure and edge of road warnings are very mild and easily ignored. One thing I thought I would never use is the semi automatic driving mode, once engaged it basically drives the car! It keeps the car within the lane, maintains set speed but slows down and speeds up as the traffic changes. It will even bring the car to a complete halt if the traffic stops then pull away again once the car in front moves off. Obviously no use around town etc. but surprisingly helpful on major roads and motorways. What do I miss? I really miss the simple knobs to adjust climate control, turn on/off heated seats and not having an oil dipstick – have to check oil level electronically. Why? A dipstick is much simpler, fail safe and handier than having to delve through levels on the touch screen. The touch screen is a lot better than that on other cars I test drove but it still bugs me that the authorities think it is okay to use a cars touchscreen and not okay to use a smartphones touch screen. How does that make sense? In summary I have to say that I am pleased with my swap, the Countryman is a worthy replacement and has a certain character to it that other cars I test drove didn’t - bit like the Yeti! BUT the Yeti will always have a place in my heart as a great car which was always a pleasure to drive. Like many others I can’t understand why Skoda stopped developing the Yeti as it could be a brilliant 2024 car if Skoda had stuck with the development.

After 58k miles from new (and with no sunroof leaks) we are changing our Yeti. Still polishes up like new and 52+ mpg cumulative on the spreadsheet. Super car, travelled all over the continent, no short journeys - we use our Fiat 500 for those. Sorry to say goodbye but 8+ years old...... About to take delivery of a new Volvo XC40 Mild Hybrid B4 Ultimate. Will keep reading here daily and will post opinions as we start putting on the miles. Kind regards to all.

Glorious again this afternoon.........

There are usually several recommended tyre pressures shown on the fuel flap for different loads (one person, 3 people, three people plus luggage IIRC). @mccririck Which recommended tyre pressure were you comparing against?

Was ??? Is surely ?

I can't claim to carry all that, but do have jump leads, and would hate to have a car without a spare wheel. Either I'm seriously weaker than I used to be or wheel nuts are a lot tighter than they used to be - I changed wheels on a couple of our cars 40 years ago, but these days would have to wait for professional help. Having roadside tools implies knowing how to use them - with most things under the bonnet I'd be afraid of making things worse, despite having taken a car maintenance evening class course many years ago! Meanwhile the auto stop/start system was working fine yesterday. I'm just hoping it's not that dreaded matter, an intermittent fault in the electrics.

I have (rather unfairly, I think) been considered to be a little conservative at times, probably the ex-scout in me - E.g. carry a spare wheel, portable boost starter and a few roadside tools, etc. in all my vehicles.

Make & Model: Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo TDI Colour: Red Mileage: 162000 Price: £2250 Description: My son's Monte is now for sale. Very subtly modified with sensible mods (see below). Private plate will be removed when sold and YG12HVR reinstated. Lovely looking car and ideal for a first car. Over 60 mpg. Priced to sell and will be valeted tomorrow and then parked up. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: <Detailing the work done to the car in your ownership helps verify and, backs up the condition of the car> Extras: Maxi Dot Rear parking sensors Climate Control - ice cold and no faults Full VRS interior, excellent condition with no bolster wear EBC Drilled and grooved disc and EBC pads H & R 25mm lowering springs and 10mm Forge wheel spacers Full VRS rear axle conversion Android stereo with Apple Car Play, google maps etc Facelift steering wheel and air bag Facelift badges all round Door rubbing strips removed LED Bulb conversion on headlamps - amazing at night Spare wheel Front centre arm rest Milotec Front Grill New heater blower motor fitted in March ( You know what kind of job that is .....) Mods: Shipping: Collection: Anytime from Hereford. Pictures: <attach as many or as few as you want within the limits>

When you live in the middle of nowhere you get used to remember to charge things like that. The one I got is meant to handle a lot bigger engines than I got, which is why I got it so it would be better to handle the cold. First time I tried it, the car fired up like it was summertime so I know it's dependable. That was after I had tried to crank it till I knew it just wouldn't start on its own(which is no more than 3-4 tries in the winter) It's more -15 to -20C normally, but some periods we get -30C and that is a big difference especially for electronic equipment. I especially don't use the webasto heater at all even though I got one, because it empties the battery very fast(I'd rather want to start the car than a slightly less cold car) and I personally feel it's very ineffective. If it doesn't make it warm but just slightly warms up the front window, I see no point in it. Then it's better to just start up the car and let it warm up that way. So, even though I have a booster there's no point trying to empty the battery for fun, so I'd rather want to be able to start the car normally and just have the booster as a backup.

Delta P. VAG standard TPMS uses derived pressure from the ABS sensors and not actual pressure.

Thanks Steve. Hopefully getting the video emailed through tomorrow so will see. I can definitely live without the clock but the trip data would be handy to have occasionally so I’ll ask the question about updating the car configuration at the Škoda servers end - that’s not something they’ve ever mentioned though the details always were a little sketchy, even when the Master Tech called me. Other than these few bits I do love the car. It does everything I need it to do. The boot is immense and Škoda have done well with all the little extras like the umbrella in the door and wireless CarPlay etc. Think my favourite thing is the radar cruise staying on when you change gear - on our previous car as soon as you touched the clutch the cruise disengaged - little things aye! Thanks again for all the comments and info - and all your posts on the other 42 page thread, which helped me push for a resolution. Fingers crossed! Will report back once the cars back in my possession

Has anyone else complained about this software issue?

Customary success screen on a Seat mib2 high. Thanks @MartiniB. This thread seems to hide itself... oh well.

Oh you hero, that's exactly what they are. They'll need a run through a sand blaster and new studs welded on, but they're just the lads I need.

The customary success screen on a Seat mib2 high. Thanks @MartiniB for your hard work.

The one in your hand only has 2 dots? Dashboard dimming is done by a sensor in the dashboard itself, not by one on the windscreen. I think you need to get someone do do a scan with VCDS, OBDeleven or similar to solve this question - that will show what is actually fitted to your car. My feeling is that the scan will show a module 20...

links would be more useful than just screengrabs #justsaying ;o)

The answer is surely "Do the tyres have edge wear (pressure too low) or centre wear (pressure too high) at your preferred pressure?"

@Ootoherethere are all kinds of ICE models, no EVs.

My 2.0tdi estate came with Cross Climate 1's which i didn't rate in the wet and when it came time to change them I was looking for something else. But the Cross Climate 2's came out and the reports were their wet handling is much improved, as is aquaplaning resistance. I was glad I tried them, they're a great all around tyre but esppecially good int he cold/wet. I'm a service engineer, driving between 20k - 50k miles per year, often on nightshift, driving cross country, here in cold/wet Scotland, so I am picky !

It's not only a rain sensor it's also the light sensor for auto lights. So you can have an auto lights only sensor, or a combined auto lights and wipers sensor (and there are 2 versions of that, one which allows auto window closing when it rains and one that doesn't) - confusing it most certainly is! Do you have auto lights?

I'd suggest getting the oil pressure tested.

@Graham Butcher What models of Skoda? .................................................. £35,500 RRP 14 months ago. In 2 years i am expecting to pay nearer £10,000 to buy one, or a 5 door petrol model.

It really depends on the engine. I've had cars run on whatever and not miss a beat, and I've had others that were really picky. I run my 1.4 fabia on Mannol 10w40 semi synthetic. Some say it's cheap crap but it's been running great and it's VW 502 certified. It's a lot quieter on the thicker semi synthetic than it was on the thinner fully synthetic, not too much loss on the MPG either. If you go with something that has VW 502/505 on the label, you shouldn't have any issues.

The ZE50 interests me as it is the model that local Renault did not want back, though ok to have my mild hybrid Arkana back, as it was worth about £5k less than my PCP pay off amount, that was 3 months ago when I was doing the deal for the Scenic etech. Roll on 3 month, and despite coming up to winter and the values are up around £11k from the £9k it was. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?advertising-location=at_cars&aggregatedTrim=Riviera&make=Renault&model=Zoe&postcode=wr40lx&sort=relevance Now "wise youtube men", like the self appointed expert above, seem to think those who drive EVs despair over EVs losing their value quickly overthe first 5 years or so, the truth is far from it in most case. As most EVs are on PCP a low market value can mean that the local dealer who is obliged to take back the EV after 2, 3, 4 years, is in a tough spot as is the nation marque importer. I can easily just say "take the car back", having paid my two hundred and something pounds a month for having the car, which costs next to nothing to run and I have made money on mileage claims from HMRC or he can, and it has been intimated, he will cut me a deal on buying the car I have grown to like over the past 3, 4 years. As Renault do not really want a car worth much less than the balloon payment, unless I do a deal for a new Renault 5 or 5 EV, which is highly likely, I understand they will offer to sell my Zoe Riviera for thousands below the balloon payment ie round about between the trade in and re-retail value. So no, quite happy for the market value to be on the low side ie residual of around a third after 3 years but some, probably many, EVs are bouncing back in value on Autotrader and in the auction houses quite well. Winners and losers of course as some EVs are exposed as poor value as not reaching their WLTPetc by a huge margin whilst other are seen as gems.

Best you check if the sensitivity can be reduced. I have seen others say it no longer can, but surely it must be and there are not going to be years more of people posting about similar things happening but now with the latest models from Skoda. 'Vorsprung Durch Technik' seems to have past the VW Group by.

@Winston_Woof 'was' as in always has been. Pre Reg, Demonstrators, Management cars, yes it still is being manipulated. Now though it is clear to those very sales executives that were and are part of it, for the sales figures and their bonuses and incentives. Like a light switch went on and now they can see what they were blind to. Well tough titty really. Stay away from EV,s. Make Youtube videos, it makes sense you know.

It's all part of the VAG mission to eliminate paper. We're lucky to be able to download PDF brochures as they've long gone for VW and Audi cars!!

It tells me that the system is ballesed up, bit then it always has been, keeping the Car Industry in the UK in the past. high paid jobs, and cars going to businesses ans leased and into the used trade and keep the economy going around. Normal PAYE tax payers, small businesses and traders maybe working hard and those that can work the system doing that. The EV Market in the UK was being manipulated and people are going to be bit in the bum. Tax Payer public money, Joe and Jane public. But as always there will be winners, there always is.

Yeti averaged 44.5 MPG over 55,000 miles on a brim full to brim full basis. So far Countryman is 47.4 on same basis but too early days to be definitive.

Thank for the response. It's all sorted now thanks to the brilliant response from breezy_pete. There was no output from the alternator so it was swapped for a reconditioned unit by Pete. Many thanks again to Pete.

My pre-reg came with ceramic coating (cost of which was added on my invoice). Since my little scratch (deffo cat that got shut in garage), I have to get a “proper” repair to maintain the coating warranty. A few weeks down the line, still not done as cannot find anyone to do it (too small a job/cost of recoating panel). Oh for the days of ordinary paint and Duplicolor!

These look like the brackets from the front of the front inner wings.

Soz - video seems embedded on the phone, but a downloadable link on here 🤔

Supposedly VW was working on a torque convertor platform gearbox to replace DSG, but they canned the project as EVs got going so wasn't worth it given ICE car production will stop in the not to distant (in car manuafacturing lifetime terms) time. TBH I'm pretty happy with our Karoq - I think the diesel Tiguan we had before would have been much better with a fluid link in its drivetrain. On the warranty front, if you time it right you can get 8yrs using All In. Don't know the rules in Oz. but usually to comply with manufacturers warranty it makes sense to service at franchise dealers to avoid any queries, so using All In makes the warranty effectively free. It's a big issue for me right now looking at EVs - there's no All In for EVs and, while 8yrs is common for batteries, many manufactures limit the rest of the car to 3yrs. Kia do 7yrs and Hyundai do 5. But then there's a dead stop - they don't do extended warranty at all.

This thread has to be a wind up.

Thanks, updated. Everything went fine.

You must be in 2 cylinder mode are you not, foot off the accelerator or light pressure and no load on the engine. Your car can deactivate the cylinders regardless of the mode you are in. ACT / Active Cylinder Technology.

I'd suggest getting the battery tested - preferably a high-rate discharge test. If your runs are mostly relatively short distances, the battery management system will typically restrict battery charge state to around 75%, reserving the remaining approx. 25% capacity for energy recuperation. The slightly rougher idling could possibly be the alternator being loaded-up in an attempt to raise battery charge state.

Try not physically turning off the infotainment unit using its ON/OFF button. This means that the infotainment unit will be on continuously until the car's doors are locked, when the infotainment unit will automatically 'sleep'. Then, when the car's ignition is next turned on, the infotainment will automatically 'wake', but no Data Protection Information message should appear.

I'd have a go at repairing one, under the microscope. Might be quite tricky, but could be fun to try. Probably wouldn't use gold wire though, unless someone wants to treat me to 10cm of 0.1mm for £32 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114870867902 😁

No corrosion anywhere, in fact they only recently came back from the powder coaters and had the new pads fitted. There is vertical movement in the holder of about 1.5mm which is enough to cause an awful knock. Not ideal 😞 Wouldnt ever go near EBC pads again, had a set in my old polo and lost brakes when the friction material fell out as it unglued itself from the backing plate. I am quite the fan of TRW, Ferrodo and pagid, never had issues with these

Mine fluctuates but is regularly above 95 - has done since I bought it 3 years ago so adding my assurance to this.

Not just a sheared wire between the car body and the hatch? Ie wire sheared but making when the hatched is open/partly open?

If you've got an Amundsen/Discover Media MIB2 unit it can be enabled for free. VCDS/OBD11, sd card and MIB2 Toolbox are all that are needed. Check out Mr Fix on youtube - he's got loads of videos explaining things.

Watch this, by far the best video I’ve seen and is explaining things nice and clearly even though it is for an Audi it’s essentially same process

You'll have to forgive me in starting this thread late and writing most of this thread (to date) almost a year and a quarter after purchasing my Mk1 vRS TDI. Its been a journey... Without further adieu, welcome to the thread in which I'll be keeping updates and build progress on my own 2006 mk1 fabia vRS. As a bit of an explanation for some of the silly financial decisions, this project is born from nostalgia and as my affordable dream car. Not a wholly impressive one to most, it's what I wanted though, probably stemming from my first car. That was an X reg mk1 fabia 1.4 16v in cayenne orange and what a first car it was... Until it threw a rod that is... So, after trawling the depths of Facebook Marketplace I came across a fairly well presented vRS. It was advertised as completely standard (we'll get to that) and the only thing detracting from the car was n/s quarter panel damage in the ad. I'm not going to lie, it was a shed. It was a prime breaker. Although it hadn't had any parts of significant value added, so would have been harvested for what straight panels it had, and crushed. The battery was flat, door cards fell away when doors shut, central locking and windows didn't work, it shook like mad no matter whether it was idling or not, the passenger headlight was not attached to any part of the car, and it was as clean as your local public toilet. One eyebrow raising ridealong later i was sold, I'm a good boy and don't drive cars without insurance, nor did I want to drive it after learning it was re-mapped. But, I fell in love with the car and the surprising lack of rust on it... (Ps, it was also the first fabia vRS I'd gone to see in person as well. I can hear the eye rolls from here) So once I got my hands on it, I had to apply for the logbook (as the previous 4 owners, or so I'm told, never bothered applying for a new one... speeding tickets aplenty I presume) and I gave it a thorough wash. In the interest of readability I'll list the issues I found: Windscreen cracked O/S zone A Snapped O/S engine mount (not the bushing... Engine was listing a solid 40 degrees) Airbox screws all missing, aftermarket panel filter loose in housing. Probably doing about as much as using a sieve to catch water Loose engine cover rubbing on boost pipe Obligatory plastic boost pipe leaks Dent (almost a crater, had done a check before purchase and is cat D, wasn't advertised as such 🚩) Tyres, had Michelin pilot sport 3's on the front but one had a nasty sidewall cut, rears mismatched and cracking Alloys all curbed, heavily corroded and no centre caps Rear bumper cracked/ scuffed Front bumper damaged n/s entire front corner scuffed Drivers door dented from previous owner reversing close to a wall with the door open O/S fog light blown (what a PITA that was) Usual rips in seat bolsters and the seat foam was that far gone on the passenger side, the seat frame was visibly protruding No parcel shelf More fag ash behind the door cards than in a wetherspoons ashtray Drivers door loom broken, door lock microswitch toast Passenger window regulator and leaking rear door regs No brake fluid cap Various creaks and knocks Poorly ran sub wiring and no sub to be seen As a note, that list isn't exhaustive and I was fully aware of most of those issues or as to what I could expect to find further down the road... Or so I thought

I have 5Q0035874B What difference letter B makes?