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Plasterer turned up last week and rendered the extension. Had a tidy up and put the fence back up. Looking more complete new guttering and some painting left to finish the outside. We also managed to save the old front doors and use internally which was quite pleasing, not least the £500+ saved for new doors.

Hey all! Probably late to this post but stumbled upon it since I got this same issue with the fuel lid not opening. In my case I initially tried few things but of no use but then thought of giving a try of what @Roberto280 suggested. Thankfully, I could hear that the motor is working, so I gave open-close the lock button a few hits but didn’t help. Then I thought, lets reduce the load on the lock that actually rotates and holds the lid, so I pushed the lid a little in and then locked and unlocked the car, silly but I had to give it a try. That worked. Not a good approach by the Design Engineers to rely just on the electromechanical mechanism, needed a manual emergency release. In the case where the motor works and the lock is stuck, this can resolve the issue. Hope this helps! So now, I’ve applied a little silicon to the plunger/lock so that it operates smoothly. Thanks all!

I guess an adapter adds and additional part that could fail or be knocked and interrupt the update - potentially bricking your unit. I used a portable ssd with a usb-a to usb-c adapter and had no issues. I just made sure it was stable and didn't touch it during update! I didn't have to open my hood during update. Updating from 1941 to 1985 was much faster than my update from 1804 to 1941. ~5-10mins compared to ~30mins. Was worried it didn't update properly, but after a few days of driving everything looks good 🙂

Also for me upgrade successfully

I have always expected cars to lose 25-30% in the first year depending upon popularity. For one thing VAT is not payable 2nd hand so that is around £7,500 on a £45,000 car + 10% of the value of the car £3,750 leaving a 12month old car sold for £45,000 @ £33,750 and that subject to mileage

Are you sure the mounting bolt goes into the actual cast iron engine block and that it is damaged or is that what you are being told? I bought my MK2 Octavia cheap because the sellers garage had put in writing almost word for word what you stated, "new engine block needed" this was again just after they had replaced the cam belt. In actual fact the broken casting was the aluminium alternator and power steering belt mounting bracket which the LH engine mounting bracket screwed into. £30 and I had a second hand one delivered from a breaker in 24 hours.

From this photo I found online, I assumed it was the brown that's the ground (bottom boot side panel removed I believe)? Nothing else but crimping tool (I think the wee wires are about 0.8 mm) and wire stripper. The kit comes with two heat shrink tubes for around the windscreen washer hose connectors. I used a lighter, but this isn't the greatest of course, so heat gun maybe. I took off the boot cover at the top of the boot door (just simple clips) to give a little more play but didn't remove the side panels. Bit fiddly job but ok. Took the gas strut off at the top as suggested by @ChrisTids SenCom Tailgate Loom Repair - Skoda Roomster (2006-2015) - BRISKODA to give more room to work. Torque screws on that. Cheers, Sebastiaan

1. you need a good, branded USB-C pendrive (I do not recommend adapters) 2. format it in exFat 3. unzip the downloaded file on your computer and only then copy the contents (two folders) to the root directory of the pendrive 4. open/tilt the car hood 5. turn on the ignition (you can start the engine if there is a possibility of the battery being discharged) 6. insert the pendrive into the USB-C port 7. enter service mode by holding the MENU button for a few seconds 8. follow the messages 9. arm yourself with patience - if this is your first time, you can skip the coffee 10. 15-20 minutes of adrenaline and you're done! https://youtu.be/9Sd6mpX3D2c

Hey all, I've been using the forum for a few years with my previous MK3 Octavia VRS with a few choice upgrades. I have recently moved on to a 2018 Superb Sportline 272 hatch in Moon White Metallic. I bought it from Station Garage in Horsham and Mark there has been very helpful. Its low miles for the age (43,500) and they gave it a major service, Haldex service and changed the centre caps as the originals had corroded. Its well specced (although not sure what is optional extras 🙂) Winter pack with heated steering wheel DCC Radar guided cruise Sunroof Electric memory drivers seat Folding wingmirrors KESSY 3 keys Probably more Ive missed! Loving the comfort and space. Its a lovely place to travel in.

I do not think this will surprise many of you ........ But BMW (yes, I know) want me to take my car in to them to change the brake fluid .............. and they want me to pay one hundred and seventy pounds for the privilege, Lol. I took the car to my usual place that the Octavia, Audi and Saab have all visited annually whilst they were in my possession, for it's first MOT today, and asked them for a price to change the brake fluid. That would be sixty five pounds ........... Thanks mate, I will get it booked in, see you soon I said, Lol. The issue is that the car has a service reminder for this and I do not think it can be reset without specialist equipment It does allow me to reset what it cheekily calls an 'annual emissions check'' ......... Lol. Any thoughts ........... (apart from maybe not buying a BMW in the first place, Lol) Thanks.

If this guy sorts his microphone out I may be able to save myself £50 (the difference) and not have to go all the way to Derby, Lol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbltBaLKSXM

Skoda Fabia II Relay Removal.pdf PDF with all the required pages 113, 132, 133 and page 136.

Ahhhhh..... Yep. It's one of those "special" DSG's, which VAG put in very few cars, which is the sentient version, so it tweaks itself and adapts to your driving style, knows your birthday and likes to fool you now and again; it's learnt you really want the Eco coast mode and has dropped it in to surprise you! No idea - it's a feature I thought was only on the 6 speed DSG's (I'm guessing yours is 7 Speed?) so nice one!

some decent work on this and looks clean as

like this a lot

https://cardiagn.com/2007-2014-fabia-electrical-system/ Scroll to page 136. I think this is what you are looking for.

Could be ok now. But the question is for how long. You can check this tunning guide by Bartek. They recommend replacing the clutch with torque figures over 500 nm. https://www.bar-tek.com/tuning-guide-for-2.0l-ea888-evo4-265-hp Racingline also recommends replacing the clutch for stage 2 high torque maps. https://www.racinglinetuning.com/ea888-4-garrett-software "Finally, for 6MT manual transmission cars, the Lower Torque calibration will protect the stock factory clutch - a known weak point in these cars running high power. Then you can upgrade to High Output for free in future if you fit a stronger aftermarket clutch. " I can't recommend you a clutch since I have a DSG transmission.

I got mine from Machine Mart, only £5.99 but they don't appear to have it at that price anymore. Ebay or Amazon do them cheap.

What about using a windscreen wiper removal tool? That's what I used on the front wipers on my car.

Can't help; I don't know anyone East of Motherwell except Agra Engineering in Dundee.

It is an SEL 2L diesel. I would prefer petrol, but the petrol version isn’t available on Motability yet. It’s has already been registered on my private plate, but yes, It will have a 74 plate when it goes back.

It is indeed. It seems the adaptions company waited until the car was delivered to the dealer before they ordered the kit from Italy. Also, I believe that this is one of the first Kodiaq 2 to the other parts of the adaptions and there aren’t any equipment suppliers that can supply them. I have agreed for the adaptions company to use my car to design the kit, so it will take a week rather than a couple of days. I’m ok with that as I’ve managed to squeeze a discount from them privately.

I live in Falkirk. I have checked out a few local garages who can do engine swaps. I think there's a VAG group independent garage nearby that can do provided I can source the engine successfully. I guess it's all just a matter of cost...

Interesting. What you mean by reaching 2,2 bar? Is that the value ecu is asking (specified) or what is delivered (actual)? Have you checked with a diagnostic tool if the actual value follows the specified value (is there really a underboost problem)?

Sure, but sinc sprays might not be best alternative. Some of them are **** and some OK. As a rust pretentive primer I have had better results with Wurth Rost-Stop for such applications. Does not matter that much tho, the lift points will get abused over and over and any sealing will wear. Overall, from my experience it is common that sealing wears off from the lifting points and it is surface rusted bare metal what there is at lifting points in mk3's nowadays. I wud say it is common with all cars and it is not a problem. They will last for the life of the car. But of course there is expections. However I wud not waste my money by taking it to a professional. For piece of mind I recommend to just keep resurfacing it by yourself if you wish to do so.

Me too... just move it from 11 to 12

Range showing 78 miles as I try to demist windscreen. Should have turned on while still plugged in but not going far today.

Where are you in Central Scotland and is there no competent independent mechanic near that might be experienced and capable of doing this work? Maybe someplace that does servicing and maintenance of taxi,s. Might even have the parts.

Have the brake fluid changed at a competent Independent BMW or German Car specialist, or just as i do at a competent mechanic with all the gear and more than ideas. As i have with discs getting replaced & servicing done. That is if you do not require a Full BMW Main Dealer Service history.

I changed my battery last year from EFB to AGM. Never even thought about memory savers. Changed it over then let the engine management know battery type had changed using OBD11. Started up and drove off with no problems.

@Jimmenyjm I would get a beer and sit and read the threads on this forum, you can also look for someone with VCDS near you who would be willing to scan your car; https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

So thought i would give an update. Just broke 1000KM (yes at the moment dont drive alot but will do trip to Germany and Holland over Xmass so will be longer drives) Overall i love the car and it features. However whenever i start the car the first thing i do is turn off lane-assist, speed limit warnings, drowsiness warning and one more (the top 4 in the list) which i cant remember the name of right now. These drive me crazy when i leave them on since yes i do speed and the lane assist is just way to intrusive. Probably will turn them all of with VCDS once the data plan and warranty ends. This is not Skoda specific but EU regulations of people who i think never drive a car themselves. The blind spot detection also shows way to long. I am used to pass and then pull back in. Think right, drive right (in Europe). They always start the blink when they are still on and i pull back in. Yesterday for 1 minute i thought i had the dreadful all warnings. It started with front sensor not available and then continued with warnings for all systems that dont work. Was about 5 in a row. But then it cleared within the minute and didnt occur again. However i know this will happen alot once winter hits and the car is covered in snow and ice. Was the same in my Mk3 and it is something that just happens with the winter in Finland So as mentioned overall love it and it is the tiny details that make it perfect. Like the seats sliding back a little when you open the door to make it easier and sliding back when you start. There are loads more of those little things. Also the engine is incredible. When the foot goes to the floor it goes and goes and goes. Cant wait for the autobahn. I have a lotus elise as my summer car but for speed in a straight line the elise doesnt come close (it will destroy the skoda in the corners). Fuel consumption is 10.8 per 100 at the moment but that is down to me and wanting to have fun and I dont really care about fuel efficiency A bit worried about the xmass trip we start on the 18th of December since it will be about 5000K so keeping my eye on the software thread and see if it gets released before i leave so i can get the dealer to update it.

Thanks for the replies so far Its almost tempting to look for a first generation diesel octavia, about 4 years ago I was involved in recovering dash cam footage from taxi's around the North East, I saw one with close on 475,000 miles on the original engine and gearbox, 5th clutch, oil and filter's every 5,000 miles helped! I to tend to follow a similar service pattern and never lost an engine yet and plan to do an oil and filter change every 6 months as I do short journey's now and the car is only used 3 - 4 days in the week with home working. Apart from a 307 1.6 hdi that decided to do an engine surge whilst returning home past the Metrocentre. Interesting moment when I tried to turn the motor off, removed the key and the engine is still sitting on its governors with loads of black smoke. The fuel from the return pipe was being drawn into the air intake causing the engine to surge. No more peugeots then! I look on advisories on the MOT as a heads up to have the items replaced during the year as on last years test they picked up the rear disks were corroded, these were changed soon after. I did have a corsa with the misting front struts. on the way to the test, the car received a steam clean to all 4 corners and the struts were replaced during the year along with the springs as the old ones were being taken off and for £30 the pair and the same for each strut top, the front end was sorted, I think that, in the situation of changing drive shafts the pads and disks will have to come off, might as well put new one on at the re-fit Interesting to know about the cam belt, I have a suspicion the dealerships will still recommend you having this done every 5 years keeping an eye on the profit! Kevin

Thanks for the info @Tilt. Yep it's going very well so far, ta. No repetition of the horrible rattle. Things I've done recently: Cleaned out intake manifold. Wasn't as bad as I expected. Fitted a new genuine engine air filter and gave the MAF a clean, initially just squirting some isoprop across the film, then with an aerosol of 'proper' MAF cleaner lent by a colleague a couple of days later. I could convince myself that it goes better and chucks less smoke out of the back as a result of these things. Filter wasn't at all grubby though TBH. Attempted to get one of the pinch bolts moving, and briefly succeeded, but then it jammed up again half a mm to the left. Took a lot of getting back to 'done up'. So I ran away and left it for another day/month/year. Latest game is to see what journey average mpgs I can get on my commute. It's probably near ideal, in flowing, but slowish traffic at 7am, maybe 45mph most of the way. I've finished the journey with an indicated average for the journey of 60mpg a couple times in the last week or two, which I suspect isn't quite real, but it's pretty good. For as long as I have to do twenty-odd miles twice a day, it might as well be as efficient as I can get it. Always seems to be slightly worse on the way home. Prevailing wind effects, and/or possibly a steep hill I go up very early in the outbound journey, bringing temps up much quicker than on the flat start of the return journey??

New Osprey hub at Wrexham opened today with 6 x 150kW CCS and 6x 50kW Chademo Kempower units. Plas Coch Retail Park, handy for the A483

Fastned Helen Street Glasgow G51 3HF - Junction 24 Retail Park 8 x 300kW CCS 3 x 50kW Chademo Opened about two weeks ago....

Let's help him get rid of this and get back driving a petrol car. He needs all the clicks he can get. He never has click bait titles... How cruel if he was ever to have to buy a new EV battery.

I already did that. Asked him to put original map in to see is there any difference. The same thing is happening only at the lower boost, but like a clockwork at the same value

Go back to the mapper and explain the situation. Could be something they missed or an issue created by removing so many functions. This is entirely your choice but it's generally not recommended on here to remove the DPF due to it being an MOT fail. Rules in Ireland could be different.

Don't think of it as a "spare" key but the second key. Alternate the use of the two keys in whatever way suits you, that way you know they both work and state of remote battery and where to find the second key (but you knew that, many don't hence only one key with s/h cars). Do bear in mind that an MoT pass and advisories are only the car has meet the minimum statutory requirement to one (hopefully trained?) person's opinion at one point in time only it doesn't mean the car is as good as it could or should be or that work may not be required perhaps sooner perhaps a lot later. To me PSA/Stelantis like Mercs and BMWs (and VAGs) are cars you hire or own early in the warranty but even then it's a risk, then I'm not standard in my choice or like of cars. Even Toyota and Honda aren't as good as they used to be but they have further to fall. Personally I'd barely want a car from this century. The engines, if looked after (better than VW want) should last a very long time it's all the other bits I'd worry about including the computer programs and the ever increasing number of sensors and modules. God luck with whatever you decide.

Your vehicle does not have a chassis. You either have a lot more faith or are even more of a risk taker than me to have jacked up the car directly underneath the rotten area! That it has not collapsed suggests there remains ample strength and welding in a new section of sill and the wing bottom will make a good repair. Entirely saveable but if you do not have the skills to DIY I doubt that you will consider the price being asked by a garage worth it compared to the cars value. 4 decades ago many people like myself were doing 6 repairs like that most weekends for very little money on MOT failures and it was an annual thing for owners.

Osprey expansion in Glasgow

If you're worried about formatting the card, just delete the contents, that's what I do.

Gleaming engine! 😎

probs cause u are a new user

I found the HVAC ducting split: So i fixed it up with some rivets and my favorite windscreen adhesive: I really didn't like how it all went it, there was no satisfying click sound, so I've put in a spreader river for good measure: I've re-assembled the cut up pieces of original sound proofing and replaced the 'missing' bits with 2 layers of 12mm carpet underlay. Having to leaks in the car and no wet sound proofing has completely transformer the way the car smells and i feel much better being in it...

I do believe that they need to be coded in when changing batteries, check first. All I've done in the past when swapping batteries on cars, minimum required (with those) was the relearning of fueling and reset the traction control, that was more to do with losing power (battery disconnected) than anything else showing faults.

Mot passed the other week and just been on a nice 400mile round trip all on one tank of fuel, quite decent for a big car.

Same issue here, was taking between 5-10 lock/unlocks to get the actuator to work. Just got the stealer to replace it, €40 for the part, plus some labour and sorted, seems like a known issue

Hi Everyone. A quick update to this somewhat rather ancient thread….. Recently some members have contacted me to let me know that some of the links to PDF Guides that I did some time ago for the Škoda (Technical) Guides section have stopped working! It would appear that Google Sites, where the original guides were saved for viewing online, last year changed the way it operates, and that some of the links to the PDF guides are no longer operative. It’s all a bit haphazard as about 50% still work, but the remainder don’t. So if this has caused you any inconvenience I do sincerely apologise. Things change and as time has passed, some of the information may seem a little dated. However, so are our vehicles, but some of the information is still relevant and may help others. I think the best way forward for these to be enabled for viewing is to upload the relevant files directly to Briskoda, where I am sure they will be safe for future reference. So here, attached to this post, is the PDF Guide that this thread refers to. Should you come across any others (of mine) please let me know and I will do my best to update them. Hope this helps………..Stay safe & happy motoring………Tony PDF File Attached: Škoda Yeti - Removing Switch or Switch Blank Škoda Yeti - Removing Switch or Switch Blank.pdf