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Carwow have done one of their "see how far it can go" challenges. Won't spoil the result, but the camera car is a diesel Skoda and it does rather well, even though it isn't part of the test.

I would like to thank you so much Erik for your previous advices. I did the same thing for the battery (unplug-wait 20min. -plug-drive a few- then restart car). It worked. It’s perfectly working now. I also agree about not to install the software until the next error. I’ll wait for software to be reliable. It’s not an advice for the people who has an errors currently. I just wanted to share my thoughts and wanted to thank Erik 🙏

Welcome. So many threads on this, and help with the cheap fix, or the Main Dealers very expensive fix. Try a search and look at the more recent threads. What engine, so what DSG do you have. 7 speed Dry Clutch DQ200, or a 7 speed wet clutch DSG, so a DQ381 as fitted to a 2.0 TSI or TDI?

For Ref they are 8.0x19 ET34 with 235/40 tyres, pics below show where they sit in relation to the body a bit better. I de-badged the rear too, it maybe controversial but I prefer the clean look.

Annual visit to Donna Nook earlier 🦭

Get it on a smart charger now, it'll then be ok when you can drive. It's just a case of opening the bonnet and connecting up. Use the earth point by the battery (on the Kamiq it's above battery on the firewall/wing area) for the negative, positive straight to the positive battery post. Hope the recovery is going well, take care.

Loving the look and left field colour! Quickly on this - 10mm lower offset; doesn’t that mean wheel sits closer to the hub, ie further into the wheel arch? They look pretty flush to the wheel arch instead 🤯

I could see that being life-changing, yes.

How old is the battery?

Just to resolve this and to give an answer to anyone who comes across it. The issue was... too high a tyre pressure... duh! Thanks to all for your suggestions.

Been back in business since last Tuesday! Tracked up and new Pirelli tyres as well. Feels like a brand new motor! Creeping up on 97,000 miles now. Going well now. That'll do.

Best not go places in a EV SUV all on your Jack Jones like a commercial traveller if you have to stick to 60 mph on motorways. If paying for your own charging on Public chargers you will maybe save a few quid though at 10 mph slower. ................... My last month, home charging night tariff, maybe 600 miles with the car, and 7 night hours of the fridge / freezer, a few kettle boils, just £15. Plus 750 miles Public charging about £120 though.

Also missing 2024 Car of the year Scenic with its 370 mile WLTP, more like 330 real at 70 ish.

The "locking" that has been described - "steering turned applying gas" will be transmission wind up not the differential planet gears locking up, there is a small degree of wind up or snatch present normally when reversing or driving forward on lock out of a parking space due to the pre-emptive engagement of the Haldex which I feel and am aware of but only because I drove proper 4x4's for many years. Even when the Haldex is 100% engaged (I dont accept the 35% is maximum, that is nonsense, I have driven mine on test watching live data) it declutches momentarily every few seconds to release any transmission wind up. As I alluded to above different rolling diameters of tyres on front and rear axles will cause real problems of wind up. I think the haldex plates are not releasing smoothly as they should, this could be a problem with the pressure relief valve, contaminated Haldex fluid or clutch plate metal contamination.

^^^^ As we have known for the year to now. So he is hardly Nostradamus. The SMMT, DfT, DVSA, Secretary of State for Transport, Roads Minister and just about anyone to do with anything knows. .............. Matt Watson and his trips are interesting, for those that maybe actually do travel at the speed limits on Motorways, 70 mph. Not as many might, 75-80 mph. They are not going at the speed on the speedo are they, 70 mph indicated and 67 mph maybe. Poor efficiency anyway @ 70 mph.

No compression figures yet? The 1.2 HTP engines, especially the 6-valve version, are infamous for burning their exhaust valves. No amount of new plugs and coilpacks can help if that has happened.

Noticeable "more guts" when my 2.0 TDI does a regen. Very normal behaviour, becomes more sedated once finished, (unless I stomp on the go pedal😄).

Skoda dealers have an RRP of £233 + VAT for the lambda sensor for your car (same part number as in LLL link) so you definitely don't want to be buying one of those from them without very strong evidence it is at fault! I've never heard of one being discussed in the context of DPF regen problems, to be honest. Will look up pressure sensor info later, just about to hit the road for a while. Try to grab some fault codes with VCDS.

Definitely CAN be caused by a failing battery. Just how bad was the battery condition test report?

Thats the range. As said RP90 is my go to for rusty nuts/bolts

I agree regarding buying the vehicle first! Wheel fitting tools are completely irrelevant to the OP who wrote very specifically what he was seeking advice for: What do I need advice for?: - Worth buying the Skoda Oct. with the above mentioned engines yet high mileage? - Other brands/models that could be relevant? - Something worthwhile that i haven't considered & presented in my above mentioned thoughts?

The noise doesnt come from inside the cabin its from underneath the car. I had one member comment that he heard me 400 yards away across the car park and it sounded sweet I have to say its hands down the best thing i've spent money on the car, and ive spent A LOT of money on this car. the sound is impossible to differentiate from a real exhaust as the unit exits near the genuine exhaust and you will NEVER get anything like this note on a diesel nvm a petrol. Ive noticed milltek are now doing a version too. The fact it can be completely switched off makes it worth the money alone. I have a full stainless system twin back box same as the TSI with a different 3" DP.... all i get is a small turbo whistle. I dont think i could stand the drone from a resonator delete. I dont really do the unit justice in this vid as it was just installed and i was trying out the bog standard settings.

Thanks J.R. for clearing that up, now we know 🙂

The car alarm and it's battery is a combined unit, and is located inside the b-pillar. U can replace the whole unit with a new one. They usually last 6 yrs or so..... depending.

You probably could if you have an external WiFi antenna and it is parked near enough to the house. But there are security considerations to deal with.

They are free only if required to fix some problem. If all works well, dealers won't update anything for free.

A further update, I bought a replacement rear wiper motor, it is now in situ, working perfectly, with no further issues, and everything is working as it should.

It won't be anything to do with the thermostat, I don't think. Probably a stuck relay within the fan control module, which hangs off a bracket on nearside chassis leg near bottom hose radiator connection. Edit: looks like this

My car was in the workshop for most of tuesday day....but...the dealer said yesterday:... currently getting an error message displayed (on the factory system not the car) when we reach a certain point of the update. The saga continues

My 2022 model doesn’t have TSR but the ACC is brilliant and totally reliable. You can tweak the distance you want to follow the car in front and the degree of acceleration after it brakes and comes back up to the set speed. And with the DSG box, its ability to come to a stop and then set off again when the car in front moves without touching the pedals is truly amazing. I don’t actually use it in this way but it’s a good party trick.

Yes, the update procedure is correct. There is only one 330 update. They must be the same. After update, the system must work moore fine.

I had this with the previous update - the solution for me to was to reset the system and log in again using both keys.

Thanks I can see all the links now and access it. Brilliant info thank you.

Hint here; you don't mention what the tyre pressures are.

@Jocko, yes I expect that's the difference.

I activated mine using a friends VCDS, as I imagined having the duo of TSR and ACC would be life changing! If it saw the signs correctly then it would be brilliant - however, it saw the 20mph limit at Cobham services, whilst I was in the middle lane doing 70. Not good.

To conclude this thread the car is now all working again! After finding this YouTube video I thought ah that seems like the same symptoms I’m getting. Attached a multimeter between the actuator arm and battery negative and sure enough it was reading a positive charge up to 6 volts when the car was trying to command it to open or close the waste gate! I purchased another new turbo actuator from eBay and it turned up today, exactly the same unit and part numbers as the previous replacement but this one installed the car and it works perfectly! No errors and car drives fine! Soooooo relieved! I honestly was thinking we might have to scrap the car as it might cost more to diagnose than it’s worth. This is the actuator I purchased that’s worked fine is anyone’s interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146204849057?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zb5xpfpurwu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=d_XRAh4nTKa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY the previous one is being sent back as faulty for a refund 🙂

Looking on buying this Mk2 Fabia vrs so any info would help me making a decision. Registration plate (FT63 OGN) Bot advert links below. Thankyou for your time https://www.facebook.com/share/18Gk28QTRD/?mibextid=79PoIi https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202411256731807?sort=relevance&searchId=aba936a4-757f-4b95-89f1-1317e6ded1d1&advertising-location=at_cars&aggregatedTrim=vRS S2000&make=Skoda&model=Fabia&postcode=B74 3BE&fromsra

From what you say, I would go for the 1.4l engine. You will have good mileage. With the 2.0, get between 7.1 and 8.5 at 130 km/h and do 600km on a full tank

Perhaps it's something they can do remotely? In my case, I didn't leave the car, the guy went to his desks & logged into some kind of Skoda website. After a few seconds he came back and said try to reconnect your user profile & everything worked. All they probably needs is your VIN & Skoda app user ID/login name

I would lay money down that they will have not the foggiest idea🤣🤣

The Next Service is an Oil & Inspection Service by the terms that Skoda UK started using. They love to confuse, and as it is they confuse them selves. IF YOU WERE MIS-SOLD THE FINANCIAL PRODUCT THEN TELL SKODA UK /VW UK and the DEALER PRINCIPLE WHO,S EMPLOYEES DID THAT. Cars arrive from the Factory set for Variable / Flexible Servicing Regimes, Oil & Filter Service, Inspection Service 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles. Sooner if you want. That is the Servicing in your Warranty T&C,s. Service to the Manufactures Recommendations. The changing to Fixed Service Regimes and a Oil Service at 9,400 Miles / 372 days is often done without the new Owner / Keeper being asked. ............. This below is just FIXED SERVING. That 1st OIL CHANGE was not required as the car left the Factory, but if the cars is owned and not leased so a keeper and not high annual mileage then Annual Servicing / Checks is Simply Clever / Sensible if not doing yourself. A Service and a MOT 1 month before 3 years is a good idea, and see if maybe any Warranty issues. Maybe best the MOT not carried out at a Main Dealers, where they can be Deaf, Dumb & Blind selectively. SKODA_Warranty_Terms_July_2023.pdf

Just a phone cam pic of the Fabia Scout while I was out today.

I probably phrased that wrong, and did the garage a disservice. I think they were implying that it wouldn't get through another MOT unless the problem got fixed, and I'm also doubting myself about the £700. Or it may be that they didn't give me the whole story as they were (as usual) extremely busy. I'll go and have a chat as per Paws suggestion. If 4 new injectors plus seals is all it takes and there aren't a load of other things on the way out then it has to be worth doing. As Ed says if the job does cost £700 it may feel like a lot of money, when you compare it to the potential cost of any replacement it isn't, and anything I bought would lose/cost 700 a year one way or another through depreciation and maintenance.

Yes I reckon be close to that even at at an independent. I doubt you'd even get a manual clutch and dmf fitted now for 1k... dsg clutch kit is pricier and a bit more setting up. Maybe 1,500 would do it, you'd need to call around...

I would be getting a definite diagnosis of the problem before shopping around for a new DMF and clutch pack for your DSG.

Go and buy a Rolls Royce, I guarantee that you will become sensitive to the odd rattle or squeak. Like I say, simple physics. When was the last time a car manufacturer, ANY car manufacturer, sold a car with the guarantee of no squeaks or rattles? No? Thought not. VW tried it in the late eighties and early nineties (who remembers the advert?), but that was a sales gimmick. They still squeaked and rattled, I had two of them so I’m qualified to confirm it, Jesus, come on guys 🙄😂😂

Finally got the SL01's on.

At Kildonan on the Isle of Arran. What glorious weather for my GFs birthday

These work for mobile advertising and if you go up peoples street with this noise you will annoy about the same amount of people that the A3 TDI's howl does.