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Wishing you all a Happy New Year 2025 🍻

This is why it's a good idea to remove your wheel arch liners once in a while... Some small rodent type thing/s had clearly spent a comfortable time in the snug spaces. But, there was also a lot of wet and damp dirt/mud low down in the places where rust could start at the front ends of the sills. I'll be washing it all out and then sloshing Waxoyl everywhere, before putting the liners back in with a recipe for squirrel pie as a deterrent for any future would-be dwellers.

The 4 wheel drive system doesn't put any extra stress on the clutch. My first Yeti did well over 100k on the original clutch, and my second one was heading well towards that when I sold it. And I was a heavy user of the 4x4 system!

Yea its intereting times for sure, lots of technology invovled now around using generating and storing electricity at home Whats amusing to me, having worked in the power industry all my life is that 10 years ago when we were paying 12p a unit running 60 year old coal technology pushing 25% efficiency, plus carbon tax on top of that. Now we have mainly renewables with a big dependancy on Gas for our flexible generation which can be over 60% efficient, ok Gas prices have gone up dramatically but from what I can see the only reason why electricity prices are so high is because the Government has rushed into a net zero target, closed all our generation and now margins are very tight. These margins have been so tight for the past 5/6 or so years they introduced the capacity market to secure supply where generators bid their lowest price they can make money. The problem with that is, the final capacity secured at the most expensive price then applies to all the generation, making it very lucrative to those that can generate power relatively inexpensively. If we went back to a more competative energy market and electricity was a lot cheaper, there would then be very little drive for people to make use of solar panels and battery storage solutions, in fact, these systems wouldn't be able to pay for themselves because the savings just wouldn't be there. This drive for being net zero set by our Government in the quest to look good is one of the main reasons why old people and low income households are struggling to keep their houses warm

Carista is 30% off at the moment from Amazon for £27:99

HI guys, - I have tried to add USB-C power socket into interrieor mirror. - power source 12V - I have used an empty position in fusebox nr. 37 - reserverd for USB-charging - interior mirror (see pic.) - As cabeling i used 1,5mm2 cable. I used route threw front pillar and than under upholstery (above the driver) - after disassembling mirror plastic covers, I found out, that there is small plastic blind hole. After choose out there is nice hole for USB-C - I have used USB-C female plug that a found in my supplies. I only cutted black plastic with knife to look as original plastic blind hole. - I have not used any glue, just plugged in and it fits. - All cables interconnections are above lighting - there you dont need unscrew any screwdrivers, just pull out lighting module - I used DC-DC step down converter (8-22V) to 5VDC / 5A. - if somebody want to use higher voltage (for example 9, 12 or 20V) should use DC-DC converter with communication module to comunicate the right voltage with device. And also USB-C socket with 4 wires (i have used socket with only 2 wires for power)

Thanks to everyone who chipped in but the fault didn't lie with the car just the numpty trying to diagnose it. I was looking at the wrong lamp as the last one I changed was the main beam...lamp changed problem fixed. Never assume always check! Problem solved (and a glow plug changed) Sorry for wasting time!

Bloke down the pub told me that buses and coaches do not have fuel gauges, blokes justification was equally elusory.

Fitted both today, temp needle now behaving , and cold starts are now without stalling!

I have been a member here for several years by virtue of a previous Yeti that i had. That was sold on a few years ago but last week I have returned to the Škoda fold as I picked up a Citigo as a family runabout and learner car for my soon-to-be-17 daughter. I now have a 2015 Citigo SE 60PS 5-door in white. I must admit I was not expecting much from it as I generally drive things with many more gadgets and much more power, but it has really endeared itself to me. It is uncomplicated, unassuming but well-built and generally just a nice thing. It has a small scrape on one bumper but other than that it is in great condition with 58k miles on the clock. It had a new cambelt at 5 years old and I have a stack of Škoda service receipts for it. So, I'm back!

I am awaiting the delayed delivery of a 1.5 TSI Sportline Edition and have been given a loan car in the form of a Seat Ateca 1.5 TSI DSG SE. I have to say 2 aspects have impressed me. It is absolutely rock solid, no rattles whatsoever from the dash or interior. I lifted the bonnet to check the engine as I thought it may be a 2.0 as even in normal mode the throttle response and pick up is immediate. Even driving it gently I can't get it near the economy of the Karoq. Before anybody replies, I am driving it in the same manner as my Skoda. It's definitely not linked to the 'Fastest car in the world is a hire car' syndrome. Seating and suspension are firmer than the standard Karoq Sportline. The ICE sounds ok but menus not as simple and well laid out as the Karoq's imho. DM Keith had some new loaded Experience Lux models at £27K which is a good deal.

I gave advice Aubrey. The short answer is some dodgier garages will try and con the guy for £50-80 for a completely unnecessary scan. My own dealership advised back when I changed mine that the battery didn't need coding . Those MOLL batteries were a poor battery anyway. I had one on my new Yeti originally. They have since gone bust . I can code my own, as I have an Ancel 700 scanner, so it's no problem to me to do so, but the op obviously doesn't have a scanner, so it was just a reply to him to save him from getting shafted . It's now up to him really. Have a great 2025

Interesting. My solar PV were installed over 9 years ago. Quoted return on investment was 11 years. Despite the low import prices, the FIT scheme was able to level the playing field. Once FIT went away, there was a limbo period with solar. Not much install and ROI was getting better at an extremely slow rate as tech improved. Then came the electricity price hike, and following on from that, I saw quite a few new solar installs in my neighbourhood. ROI came down to 5-10 years depending on roof suitability. I agree it's a bad state of affairs when there's people who cannot afford to pay their bills. But on the flip side, making solar installs financially viable is absolutely the right way forward. Price for home storage have came down drastically and removal of VAT makes installing home storage almost a non-brainer for anyone staying in their property for +5 years. Making more and more demand as flexible as possible should help stabilise and reduce reliance on flexible generation.

1.2 12V, I'd think man tran.

Also keen to know about this, I fancy sticking some of those brown L + K ones in my Yeti.

Wish I'd seen this post before I did it, coil packs were way more stiff than previous cars I've had, bit like there's a vacuum in there.

You might have fallen foul of the window position's needing to be recalibrated. Off the top of my memory, that whole switch panel is tied into the door controller logic. The doors just need to know where the windows are at (especially if you remove the battery for the work you just did). ignition on, engine started. Individually: press the window down and HOLD the down position of the switch for 15 secs. Wind window up, and hold for 15 secs. Now repeat for each window. Switch off engine, remove key, lock car and hopefully your alarm plays nicely now.

Its basically just a giant motor and flywheel repurposed from a mid 90's 'dash-for-gas' powerstation. This was a 2+1 unit station so I assume they have converted or will convert both Gas Turbines to be a compensator. If a system event occurs that results in a dip in frequency, the fact that this is syncronised to the grid will stop the frequency from dipping for fractions of a second and may prevent circuit breakers from tripping open, allow automatic transformer tap changing to occur, grid switching or maybe even chance for those thermal units who are in frequency response mode at the time, to load up. This probably differs from a Rotary UPS by the fact that it doesn't really feed back power in the event of a total loss of power, its just there for the 'inirtia' lost by the closure of our coal powered fleet

Be aware they(Carista) have now moved to a subscription model and the 30-day free trial is no longer available also the lifetime diags is no longer available. Just for clarity. 🙂

Quite simple, bonnet up and open the fuse box on the right hand side. A quick check online will show the position of the fuse that you need to remove. It takes 5 mins to do tops.

I've just taken over my daughter's 2018 Ateca 1.0 manual SE-L - she's had it from new and done 87,000 miles in it. Just as you say, it feels absolutely rock solid - it even absorbs poor road surfaces in a most remarkably compliant way, yet feels "planted" on the road. Compared to wife's 22, 10K mile Karoq, the difference is remarkable - her's crashes and rattles about all over the place. The Ateca is on 17" CrossClimate tyres, the Karoq on 18" Primacy's, but I can recall collecting the Ateca new when it had Bridgestone tyres (often described as being like iron rings!) and being immediately impressed with it. Can't help on fuel consumption - supposedly some VW Group cars have different throttle mapping which could explain the response, but not really the MPG. I did put super-unleaded in our Karoq once and it seemed to go a bit mental - it became altogether sharper.

Thanks for responding. That was my assumption and being a sensible driver I wasn't expecting to call on it. However, while it behaves well in ACC I have had a few incidents in normal use when I got too close to other vehicles at speed without response. I've had it kick in when test driving other Superbs so I know what to expect and I drive other vehicles with it too. On mine I get nothing on close approach, let alone braking. All the boxes are ticked on the menu, I've tried deactivating and activating it, the health check says all is OK. I'm dreading it being a dealer only issue as my local one was very unhelpful when I had an Octavia a few years ago (and they charge £168ph!). I have a scanner on order for future use which may tell me more, but this kind of fault ought to have shouted about itself.

the thing with solar is that if everyone is creating their own power there becomes even more grid unpredictability and the more people that get them the more unsustainable it becomes as nobody is buying any electricity which will make the price of electricity go up even more. We will reach a point where the grid wont want anybody exporting any electricity and the only option will be to give it away for free or use it yourself/store it. Also on the subject of stability. Deeside CCGT has recently been converted into a Syncronous compensator. This basically uses electricity to spin its large rotor for no other purpose than to have a large rotating mass connected to the grid. With the energy market being what it is today I see us having CCGTs for the next 15-20 years still in one form or another. Let’s not forget Drax who our Government are paying handsomely to cut down forests, ship thousands of miles for us to burn releasing more co2 back into our atmosphere than a Gas or Coal plant would have done. Same with the interconnectors, we are importing energy from Europe where France and Germany are still burning coal just so we can look ‘green’. It’s an absolute joke

I'll message you at lunchtime with some options.

The SOLAR Facility part or Solar portable equipment might interest you if the car does not.

Please don't judge everybody by your standards, the info I gave above was relating to posts made months ago and was I thought correct. I'm pretty sure that I saved a copy of that document but as my computer is playing up, and i Have had loads of files that have just disappeared from my hard drive, I have had to splash out almost £500 buying replacement parts to repair it with, would you like to see a receipt of that expenditure with Amazon to prove that it is not a lie??? I have already given you a possible explanation as to why I cannot retrace my footsteps and get another copy of it, but you can choose to believe it or not it's upto you, but you do not go round saying that I'm a lier, because that is something I'm not and does it not also go against the standards set for this forum???? Sod it, I'll post a copy of the order and dispatch status then perhaps you will kindly shut up with your accusations.

Welcome, all the best fixing the vRS 👍

Thank you mate

I prefer a spare, having seen people getting no results from a sealant bottle, (I suspect the sealant was out of date)

Could very well be the connector at rear of dash. Thats where I would start. Had an Octavia that did the same. I pulled dash and cleaned and recconected connector. It did seem to be partly disconnected when I removed cluster but that could have been me. It was fine after that. Not sure on the Fabia but on Octavia dash is coded and you have to remove battery before removal as it can imobize car. Better to be safe than sorry. Alasdair

I've used the compressor & foam on one tyre. It didn't really fix the puncture & made an absolute mess of the inside of the wheel/tyre. The only other time I needed one, I'd lost the valve from the tyre so no kind of kit would help I always spec a spare wheel since...

I have never ever used a sealant with a tyre plug, they have their own sticky coating. For a slow puncture where you have found a nail or screw in the tyre if you are well drilled in the procedure and have your tool to hand you can do the repair in less than 10 seconds without losing more than a tiny breath of air from the tyre in many cases without removing the wheel from the car. The trick is to do each operation with one hand while the other holds the tool for the next Pull out nail/screw. Push in rotary rasp held in battery drill chuck and ream hole. Pull out rasp insert tyre plug held in insertion tool. Pull out tool, knife end cuts plug in half allowing extraction. Trim plug flush.

Why would he want rid of it. Yesterdays video has had over 148,000 views in less than 24hrs.

I hope that in the meantime you have all managed to find a way to successfully download ECE 2025. My problem was solved when I used the 7-Zip program instead of the built-in Windows zip program. Today for your information, I recieved an email from Skoda in which they say => "We wanted to inform you that the file has been replaced. To ensure a smooth experience, please download it again using a stable network connection. Once the download is complete, you can extract the file using the default Windows packager." It took a while but they apparently got it fixed in the end and I find it good that they took the time to let me know. Let's hope that the next map update (May / June 2025) goes without problem. Happy New Year 👍

Great thread for “ideas”, this! Despite having a spare wheel in the skoda the info here has prompted me to buy a bargain rubber worm kit (of 2 tools, glue and 5 worms for under £4 on ebay). Can see it being used one day on either minor slow punctures or trailer tyre, or our other cars to avoid using spacesaver spares. Also Ootohere’d info on vulcanising- Redpath Wooler not too far away from us- handy to know - just in case.

That agrees with something I found, that suggested 6Q0711203A had been superseded by 6Q0711202J. If you give me reg plate or VIN, I can look up what's currently suggested for your car.

When a tyre fitter does not want to repair a tyre that has had foam / tyre weld used tell them to give you 10 minutes with the tyre. You can clean it of the stuff. Paper towels, rags, water or nip to a shop and buy some kitchen / bathrooms cleaner. Then a little roughen with sand paper where the mushroom plug is going. (puncture site.) They just are not going to mess about cleaning it.

I carry one of the worm kits in both our cars. Had to use it a few years ago and that tyre did around 4k miles on my repair. I actually forgot about it till the tyre guy commented when changing the tyres. Not used a foam can but have heard stories of the tyre being a right off from the glue buildup. From my experience of one event I still have no issues recommending the worms.

Hello All! Today's update, still awaiting my replacement engine. On route at the moment. Today the engine was removed. 2½ Casual hours. When taking off the wheel arch liners I was surprised at the amount of mud between it , the body work and the peace of foam. It looks like a great spot for rust!

I changed mine using one of these to remove the coil packs. This made it simple. https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExY0TkM Be careful removing the 4 pin electrical connectors, holding the locking tab out with a little pick releases them easier than the side press tab. You need a slimline socket to get down the cylinder head recess holes. I smeared a little silicone grease on the coil pack base on refitting

I have always had good results from NGK plugs, but the market is awash with counterfeits so get them from a trusted supplier. NGKs own partfinder shows the number you quote above. Some makers produce both OEM and Aftermarket ranges, which may or may not have detail differences. This might account for alternative part numbers being quoted. I changed the plugs on my 1.4 CAXA engine and found that getting the coil packs off was quite tricky - they are quite tight and the cables are short. There are various plastic mouldings to hold things in place and these seem to want to fight back. I ended up making my own extraction tool to give an upwards pull. Like all these jobs, it would be easier next time knowing what to expect.

I used VCDS and you have values Battery Type (AGM), Ah (70), Serial Number (11111111) and Manufacturer (Varta). The trick is just change serial number even if the rest remain the same. Ah often changes a little too. But as you see nothing to do with a BEM code anyway.

Might just be the DMF? If I raise the idle slightly in my Passat to just over 1000 and hold it there I get the same increased wobblyness that can be felt while in the drivers seat. Smooth as silk in the rest of the rev range

Regular use and a good concentration of screen wash will help keep it clear, but it's ridiculous to have components that rust in a screen wash system.

this is what you need to buy, and yes it plugs into the quad lock connector, be careful with buying Non VAG parts, the green adapter can be to big for the quad lock. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304147839733?epid=648652162&hash=item46d09fbaf5:g:5wkAAOSwOghfn1A5 And yes it goes behind the grille in the courtesey light and clips into place ( Piccys below). It's pretty straight forward, runs from the radio behind the top glove box, then up the L/H A pillar and across to the light. Obviously you want the radio removed...... Then you only need to remove the courtesey lamp assy (remove plastic lens), undo 2 screws, let the light dangle, L/H A pillar trim just "pulls off towards the opposite side, so like "across the dash" Top glove box, just open it, there is 2 screws on upper surface, remove those and it then pulls straight out. Finally remove the fixing that holds the hinged part of the L/H sun visor, this enables a "little" flex in the roof panel when feeding the wire to the light (open cap, remove screw) Then it's a case of feeding from the radio, then along behind topo glove box, up the A pillar (secure to exisiting wiring with cable ties or tape) and across above roof trim. To get the wiring from the top of the A pillar to the courtesey light hole, using a "fishing" rod like a coat hanger or stiff piece of wire or similar pushed back from the courtesey light hole, tape your mic / wiring to it and use that to pull the wiring through. To work "well", the microphone is best placed at this height, it is very straight forward and works very well.

Couldn’t make it up. The power socket is in the boot, I went to put air in the tyres and the Skoda tyre inflater is not long enough to reach from the boot power socket to the front near side tyre.

Peeps...be careful when you do MIB updates. It's not complicated If you know what you are doing. There are plenty of postings on how to do them. If you are trying to do a firmware update with inappropriate versions of firmware and you aren't sure what you are doing, *STOP* AND ASK FIRST. There is a section on Briskoda called Electronics, Security and Audio where hopefully your questions can be answered. You also need to know where the best place is for firmware for your device, as there are lots of hacked and inappropriate versions floating around the internet. Emergency updates are usually caused by corrupt, incomplete or incorrect versions of firmware.

hello I'm trying to do the same except in my case I'm using a different system, so I need the wiring diagram of the tail lights (turn signals and back light) do you have it??